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Yes.

yes this is the sound of success, this means the print stick to the buildplate instead of the fep :D

Thank God, i was really scared that it was going to tear the fep apart and leak resin to the LCD

Thank God!

That's the sound you know it adhered to the build plate. If you don't hear it in the first few layers, print is most likely not going well.

Sometimes it makes a noise that you really think something's gonna break, always mini heart attacks, but then it turns out fine anyways.

Yup

Most definitely; this is exactly what you want to hear! I literally wait through my first ten layers or so to make sure I've heard it! Very good indication regarding your levelling. What method did you use in the end?

Andy Murtagh yours, i think it was you who told me to overcook the first layers

yes it was, was it the video I sent you that you used to level?

It did! Very useful! Now i'm learning how to cure the resin. Still a little confuse, i must admit it.

Btw thanks for the tips! You saved my prints

In all honesty, it will probably work, I'd stand everything up more and put more supports on the feet.

You always have to consider the amount of weight every support will be holding.

I can already see points of failure where I have marked in red in paint. The parts marked with question marks are because I can't see accurately where the supports connect underneath the model, but they do look like they're probably connected too high.

If you'd like me to explain supports to you properly over discord later, feel free to message me here and I'll elaborate for you.

Josh Dalgliesh im in

You also want to angle it more - you risk the arms not sticking as they're nearly horizontal to the build plate.

Uses the file validator

Bruno Shepard sorry bro, got caught up studying last night and didn't see your notification. Offer still stands.

Apparently methylated spirits or Mean Green are popular

I heard windshield wiper fluid works, because it has methyl alcohol in it.

Simple Green, Mean Green, and Acetone will work. The "greens" will take a little longer than alcohol to get everything off, and work best if you use it in conjunction with a toothbrush to remove the remaining resin. For Acetone, it cleans even better than IPA, but you need to wear rubber (not nitrile) gloves and use it in a well ventilated space

Denatured works great for me

DO NOT PRINT LIKE THIS

PRINT IN AN ANGLE ON SLA/DLP

Print the castle directly on the bed, it needs ZERO supports it’s designed that way

Rigo Arevalo I feel like support less models are only designed for FDM. It's hard to remove items from the bed when they are flat... I would rather tilt about 15⁰ and use supports so I can I can get it off the bed undamaged...

As others have said, if you're going to print it flat (aka parallel to the build plate) then lose the supports.

Otherwise angle it, and then support it.

I do this all the time. Enough supports your fine

But only under it so you can hollow and drain holes

if it’s hard to get off your base layers time might be too high.

Chances are the cube will fail in some way.
From the screenshot I can already tell the corners are prone to bending as the supports do not run right up to the edge.
That is if it will not break off the supports at all as it's just a full parallel to the FEP.

If you’re really going to print it *that* small, you really have not being to worry about

I actually started using a single edge razor to remove smaller prints and it’s been a dream ?

Like this?

Why do i have to angle certain models? Any specific reason?

I'm starting small, my frist try was a huge print. I will start small, i need to test the printer asap.

support the castle like all model printed on photon ... castle print very well supported like you did

but hollow it and put some holes

Francois Lozach what about printing it without supports?

Hi, i actually have time to reply properly now.

The reason we angle prints on resin printers are multiple, but the main reason is to combat suction forces. Any surface area that is parallel to the buildplate, such as the cube will have a high chance of being warped the suction force when the printer peels off a new layer from the printbed.

Additonally, many prints will have their surface area per layer be reduced if we angle them. You will eventually encounter a print that just won't stick to the buildplate until you tilt it.

Ideally, the area of each successive print layer is lower than the surface area of the initial layers.

Mourni Tenchou My prints were getting stuck to to the vat. but it would also only print the first few layers

So should i tilt the cube as well?

Agreed. I'd also never again a model flat into the buildplate. last time i did many months ago I ened up scratching my buidplate since i had to resort to a metal tool to remove it.

Also, if you print something hollow onto the buildplate, chances are you will break the print when attempting to remove it.

You would need to angle a print like the cube to ensure it prints well. You will also have to oversupport it at the bottom, and it will either fail due to suction, get warped, or you end up with lots of blemishes from the support along a flat surface w here they are easily visible.

If you print it like it is now, it will definitely get stretched a tiny bit along the z axis. If you are looking for exact prints for prototyping consider z axis stretching on the photon. (its really minor)

If you angle the xyz cube for testing though, it would kinda defeat the purpose. There are a few test and validation prints also for dimensional accuracy on the photonsters github.

Exactly.
The fully parallel structure increase the suction force big time.

In resin printing you have the following things to consider for preparing your prints, among others.


I need to support all islands when looking at it from below.
Ideally, each later layer has a smaller surface area than my base layers.
Print time depends on the height of the print. Angling prints can reduce printtime.

Mourni Tenchou so should i print the cube as it is?

Unconnected islands.

Notice the ring and the dot not connecting, as the layer they are both printed at doesn't conect them. Support is necessary or it prints into the air and fails.

I've printed this and it worked out great. I just tilt it a bit on the back, supports only on the bottom and on islands, It's not hollowed.If you want, send me a message and I will send you the file that I have used. I don't know how much you can tell from the printscreen..

Bruno Shepard resin printers don't print flat surfaces the way FDM printers so. Even with a ton of support, the bottom will look melted because the resin is dripping/drooping while the exposure light is curing.

When you put an angle towards the build plate, you minimize how much is being cured l initially, then each layer builds on that.

I've been printing models for the last 2 years and have never had to angle a single print. If your build platform and settings are right your prints will come out ok.

The issue with angled prints is more points to clean. You get more anchors than is practically needed. More cleaning and clipping to do in the end.

Your prints getting stuck to the vat is definitely a sign of later layers being too large in surface area. You should also learn how to hollow prints. A hollowed prints typically won't have anyproblems with suction anymore as hollowinf reduces large layers by up to 90 percent. You can find hollowinf tutorials online. Don't forget to out holes. You don't wanna have uncured resin inside smth that can break.

Also if it's a test print still why not just do the cube, I did it with no supports, my latest print are these

And it's only my third print total on resin printer

Is all the resin in the vat cured? Or just what's on the spatula?

If it's only the part in the spatula that's cured, you need to up your exposure times. White can be hard to work with.

What are your settings now?

Had the same thing happen on my first 2 prints. Was a bed level issue. Re leveled the bed and have been printing fine.

Could be a few things. Up the bottom layers and exposure time. Re-level the build play and if it's still happening scuff up the surface of the build plat

Leveling

Leveling

Probably your level was not low enough. Also sometimes the skates on the bottom have a draft that's just way too thin so I made them cylinders and also made them thicker

Sean O'Hayer just the one in ths spatula

leveling. you are probably too high.

Sean O'Hayer and it was stuck to the vat

why did you not check how it's doing after 3 hours or so?

Ioan Flerr it's my first resin print dude, I don't know what I'm doing

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4207776

Derek Fontes so weird i followed the instructions to correcly level the bed, so weird this happened. I'm gonna try again

i think my first few print failures were due to me forgetting to change the mahine settings in the software.

Bruno Shepard

Fair enough! Research research research

Just remember that this will spend some of your resin, and make sure you take your build plate off before you do it - otherwise you can push the leftover cured resin at the bottom down into your LCD screen, and break it.

But yes, what other people have mentioned, double check your leveling.

These were the settings

Bruno Shepard I've printed for 2 years, bad prints are still a thing because placing supports is an art in itself. What you want to do is, after a cm or so have been printed, hit pause, the bed will rise and you can take a quick look if the model is still stuck to the plate or not. Then resume. It beats wasting a lot of print time only to find out it is a failure.

Bruno Shepard Unless you’re trying to print something directly on the plate, don’t be afraid to go nuts on the bottoms layers. It can help compensate for a not totally perfect leveling. I do 10 layers at 100 sec just to be sure. Worth an extra 10 minutes on your print time to not lose the print and have to spend 10 minutes cleaning to vat.

Bottom layer count should be between 8 and 10. If I do normal exposure under 10,the print fails.

Bruno Shepard Your exposure settings SHOULD be OK, but like was mentioned by others, you may want to re-level your build plate. Try the "flint read" method if you haven't.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V45o8udXNsM&t=304s

exposure time at 80?

I use 150 seconds at 8 layers. How would it burn out you're lcd screen?

seconds at what settings?

Andy Turtle Consiglio

Andy Turtle Consiglio i am using anycubic basic white resin, i don't know if these settings would work

I had the exact same issue, and it was bed leveling, I had to increase the pressure on the paper until I could barely pull it out without ripping versus snug but moveable. Also for more opaque resins, you might have to really up your base and per layer time, as opposed to translucent resins.

Ooo, up your bottom layer time to at least 80-90 (usually about 10x the per layer), and do about 10-15 layers, it'll add about 15 minutes to the print, but that's less than failure.

Also, for a white opaque resin, I'd try 9-11 seconds to start, and then back off the setting it if appears "baked" with a loss of detail or is too brittle.

you will cut your lcd lifespan if you up your base layers so much.
It’s better to tighten you z=0 down further so the printer doesn’t have to cure so much resin to fill such a large gap.
With my z=0 tightened down my base layers are 4 layers at 40 seconds and have no problems with bed adherence. And I haven’t had to replace my lcd as often

When people suggest that it is leveling, they’re right. But it’s probably confusing why.

There are two parts to leveling. Making sure the print bed is level with the screen, and setting your z=0.
Making the print bed level is pretty easy and is relatively forgiving. This part is pretty hard to mess up.
Setting your z=0 is less forgiving. If you use paper per the directions, you really need it tighter than the directions make it seem.
Z=0 is where the print bed will try to print it’s first layer. If it’s too high, the resin won’t cure all the way from the lcd to the print bed.
You can compensate by increasing the base layer exposure, but that can wear your lcd out faster.
You want to shoot for around 8x your normal exposure time for your base layers.

To the first time 3D printer owners out there... First rule of 3D printing... It's a science project, very rarely do they work well right out of the box. To get the incredible results you see posted on FB and in forums, you will need to apply yourself and learn the idiosyncrasies of each printers technology, adjust, adapt and iterate numerous times until you get your printer and process dialed in. Second rule of 3D printing... No one is exempt from rule number 1. Happy printing. :)

You'll get there Bruno!!!! Keep asking questions, lots of good people willing to help.

Daniel Prows well said

Andy Turtle Consiglio Ignore my comment (which I delete), I mixed up which printer group I was in (I'm in the phrozen, elegoo and this one, and realized I was making an elegoo recommendation)

8 sec is to low, i ran at 13 with basic white

This happened to me.
Made a horrible crunching sound, but the LCD was luckily fine.
My FEP was punctured and needing replacing though...

Is this normal? It's going up and down like this for an hour

Daniel Prows so i can solve this just by properly adjusting the build plate? Not wanting to kill my lcd this soon

Bump

Bruno Shepard at 0,02 layer height... Yea.

Is the screen showing images each time the bed stops moving?

Christopher Carstens but it's for 0,02mm layer height.

. 02 will take you way longer. Do a. 05

is it slowly getting higher? I would use much less resin and print something small for your first print.

Sean O'Hayer yes!

Pete Kastner i think it is, can't really tell precisely right now though. I will be back home in a few hours and then i will be able to see it

I’d recommend adjusting your z=0 so the paper is tighter, and then run the sample print that Anycubic sends to test that your printer is setup right. Then after that, start doing models you pick.

With the sample print, you will need to bump the normal exposure since it’s sliced for Anycubic green.
If you don’t have the sample print, the rook is a good test print too

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533652

It’s small and supportless so you won’t have to wait so long

Your first print is a 14 hour print? You may want to start with something simpler.

Bruno Shepard You’ll come to learn that this is far from weird.

You have no clue how this printer works. The printer goes up and down the entire time. That is how it prints. It cures a layer at a time. Goes up then back down to cure the next.

for your first print, doing something that takes 14 hours at 0.02mm? That's just asking for trouble.

Do a small print and start with layers of 0.05, it'll get you up running faster and easier.

How long though?

How long what?

Would it take to print at 0.05

if you print the same model you're now printing it'll be done in about half the time. Not exacly half, as you'd have to expose a bit longer, but still..

So, the bigger the layer height, the bigger the exposure time?

yes, as there is more resin to cure

Bruno Shepard you need to totally change your mindset about this process.
Fírst you need to level your printer. from what I see that would be one of your big issues. Next, you need to pick something really small and print with a 0,05 layer hight. Next you need to set your exposures time properly.
I can't see it properly on your photo but I bet your initial layers are not cured as much as they should be.

After you print something small and it is perfect you can start changing your settings and start to print bigger things...

And also use youtube to learn what you are doing... it looks like you have absolutely no idea :-)

Jakub Mach thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated

Jakub Mach i tried YT, but they never go in depht about the settings. It's using youtube that ifucked my first print

Why would your first print attempt be for a 14 hour print? lol

If you’re pissed after your first print you’re going to spend days mad at your printer. ?

Probably hahahahaha

I am on attempt 20 and still not working, I did get some almost worked one time.

there is a very good beginers guide in the file section of this group. i only have done two prints so far. the first one failed horribly, then i found the guide and followed the instructions given and my second one is currently curing but it looks so amazing..... highly recommend you go give it a read

Kamil Bartosz Bilski this is interesting, so what I just stop bad print and start up this and let it go till it finishes? And it comes off plate or fep?

Ok, I had the same issue and was frustrated , a couple of bad prints where it stuck to the FEP. Well, it wasn't stuck to the FEP, there is a protective sheet over the FEP that should have been removed before printing. Check to see if there is a protective sheet over yours. Another issue I faced at times was a bad level of the build plate.

Also check your firmware. I had a lot of similar issues until I upgraded the firmware and then it printed fine.

it's the latest

Bruno Shepard you may want to downgrade to 4.2.18. It's been the most stable.

Ralph Hulslander really, 20 attempts and not even 1 good one?

Ok, I suggest you start a new thread. Include a screen shot of what your printing.

Your setup/config screen in what ever slicer your using

An image of your object your printing in the actual slicer.

Which version of the photon you have eg. photon original, photon S or fauxton (looks like an original photon but with the photon S main board)

The firmware number

And for the hell of it include a shot of the screen where you have to do the test exposure, the one that’s the hollow rectangle.

Basically, details, details, details.

My first 2 prints were an empty plate and hardened resin stuck to the FEP.

My issue was, I thought my plate was properly leveled based on YT videos. Well I was wrong I had to make the plate tighter to the base.

also, you can check your print by pausing it and peeking inside, I usually print an hour and then check. One of the guys from here gave me that suggestion when I first started out.

Did you do the Test print? It’s usually better to start with shorter prints...

Longer bottom expose

I was following a pdf, i think 60 should do it right?

I always give it like 100sec on bottom 8 just to be damn sure it never let's go until I want it to xD

it could also be you leveling is off.

I think it was the leveling, i just re did the step by step. I forgot to reset the z axis to 0 the other times

XD classic ?

Run the lcd test, it seems like something is off to have the whole vat cure as such.
There was also an issue previously with the given pendrive, try to reformat another pendrive and give it another go.
On some printers, the vat comes with a protective sticker that needs to be removed before printing.

Nic Lim I had asked about this (the vat being cured). Only the piece on the spatula is cured, the rest is still liquid.

Oh ok then it's your levelling then.
My settings are usually 65secs for bottom 5 layer exposure.. used to be 95secs. Havent given me any issues yet and allow me to remove the prints from the plate easier.
Some resin (especially higher viscosity and more solid colours) requires higher exposure. For me I usually stick to translucent resin so I can skimp on exposure times for slightly faster prints ?

Christopher Carstens lololololol

Ernest Sandridge Ill All that I have to say about my idea, is indescription of that "thing" :)

I had very similar issues up front and it was the same two things; I needed to over-cook my first layers and I needed to get levelling right.

I also never got on with the Flint method of levelling; but I now live and die by a video Nick Williams did for me and it has never failed me. I've not had a single levelling issue since.

Link here:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/permalink/1462046247273346/

Andy Murtagh over cook?

Just 120sec so you are sure it will stick

Mike Ravn Bolin how do i do that? Is it during the slicing settings?

Yup ?

Weird I just followed the settings that have been shared off Google drive and yet to have a failed print. Been printing for almost a week.

Kyle Duckwitz it was the leveling

Bruno Shepard gotcha. Makes sense. Whatcha printing anyway? Curious to see the end product.

Kyle Duckwitz right now i took a few step backs to print cubes and a castle to test the printer. Later i will print this funko pop project that i made of my girlfriend as a warrior. I also have some other things in mind but for now just testing it until i get things right

Bruno Shepard sounds awesome. Look forward to seeing the progress. :)

Bruno Shepard over expose, up the layer time for those first layers.

Andy Murtagh i do that by increasing the bottom exposure?

Yup

Crank it up to like 120 sec or something in that range

Bruno Shepard yep

Im Nick Williams, and I approve of this message.

Had the same problem. You didnt calibrate the exposure settings right for that type of resin

Ryan Ryan i did. The problem was the level

It didn't adhere to your build plate. I'd re-level and re-zero

Bryan Napes re-zero was the problem

Don't feel bad. I had failed prints, eventually got it dialed in and dare never change my resin type again.

Andy Murtagh do you recommend to increase exposure for huge prints? I'm going for a 20 hour print rn, and i would like to know your recommendations. I'm using basic white

First print and already pissed......maybe you should not try 3d printing,
By the way, check that the screw tensioning the fep film are tight, real tight, solved everything for me, and a lot of peoe.

Get an FDM printer and stick to it, or grow some thick skin. SLA is a fickle bitch but the results are worth it once you get it down.

Hey Bruno Shepard !

20h doesn't really count as huge, my average print is 20-22hrs :)

As far as your timings, has anyone pointed you toward our git yet? Check out http://photonsters.org/ . You'll find a wealth of best practice settnigs there, particularly if you look to the link for community resin exposure settings.

As far as your settings in the above image, 120s for bottom exposure is defo more where you need it to be. I generally do AnyCubic Grey, which is my go-to, at 90-110s for bottom. I might be inclined depending on your raft/supports to up the bottm layer count a bit, say 8-10 so you're overcooking a slightly larger base. 4 layers is a very thin raft. That's not necessarily a dealbreaker though depending on the volume of what you're printing.

Your 15s exposure time might be a touch on the high side though, you may find you lose detail with settings that high; the white is quite a thin resin so I'd be more inclined to think you'd be looking at somewhere from 6.5 to 9, but you can do the exposure test print to confirm :)

I just use prusa sliced and auto supports and never have problems

Thanks for the advice

What settings for the printing?

Tilt it 45 degrees maximum from the rear of the model.

Chad Weber any reason for that?

Bruno Shepard So you don’t have all the support nubs and damage visible to the front of the print

Looks like enough to me

What is prusa?

dude i print these all time. try to add a base and print directly on the plate. you will only need like 10ish supports

and hollow that for sure

I would print it standing up less supports and cleanner look!!!

So, I just use Prusa slicer for supports. I then export the file as .stl with supports and use photon workshop to generate the pws to print . I have a photon S and usually print .05 at 8seconds it .02 at 4 seconds

Christian Mendez which makes the surface smoother?

If time isn't the essence I'd print that with a base standing up as well.

i want to make it as big as i can

That's fair enough I like printing big models as well, consider standing it up you should be able to get a taller model, depending on how big the head is. I tend to not worry about printing time it will take as long as it needs to take to print. Its not like taking out a shovel and having to dig dirt. The machine is doing the work, just have an extra coffee while you wait.

Nikola Pijanac How tall can it get standing it up?

I mean, how tall can i print without having to split the model in two

https://youtu.be/S4KRazqrMjE

You can see that in chitubox easily when you import the model keep scaling until you see the model exceed the building boundary, you will see a purple colour appear on your mesh if you exceed the build plate boundary. So you can try various angles unti l your satisfied you get the max size. When you add a platform with big models they will generally exceed the build plate area, don't worry about that at all, just slice and the platform will print where its needed.

Avoid Auto Support , ITS crap. (Chitu and prusa) Avoid Support from the model, only use from build Plate .
And reorient it.

First, the model needs to be high quality. Without that, settings won't matter.

For print settings, we need to know what resin you are using.

It is high quality.

I'm using the basic Anycubic White. It says UV Wavelength 405nm

Bump

Bruno Shepard start here and tweak as you learn. This says Anycubic White should be around 15 seconds exposure time per layer at 0,05mm layer height.


https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt......

Sean O'Hayer thanks mate!

Noone can tell you the best settings, because they depend on so many factors. Do an RERF test and you'll get to what works best for your current conditions.

Bevore

After

Jesus

After

What's this upgrade?

Harley DeBeaudrap it's a dual rail that eliminates z wobble

Ahh

It is a Twin Rail Z Slide jacksonproducts.net but sadly out of stock right now. 4 weeks approx until available. Sorry

Simon Jackson don't forget to hit me up as soon as you have it

Bruno Shepard will do...

Does that answer why you haven't replied to my email then Simon Jackson about when my order will be dispatched

Kerry Emery Sorry... Checking now.

Kerry Emery No... not the answer. Yours is for Mars and I posted it on Monday. Tracking no coming by email

Simon Jackson thanks for the confirmation and the email tracking details

The level locking device is beautiful both in engineering and how clean the device looks when installed.

Instantly solved my failed prints due to the ball joint not holding strong when peeling print off fep.

Just look on his website. The top two in the gallery are my pics.
Jacksonproducts.net