Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

New to printing- but my wife wants me to print this little lady for her fairy garden- any ideas on supports would be great- I am using Wanhao Clear Resin- thanks in advance

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Seahorse Sculpture 8cm @.05. Monocure Rapid clear + FLEX100 60/40 mix.
Post cleaned with ResinAway in Ultrasonic Cleaner, coated with Rustlolum clear gloss.

I printed this about 2 months ago and it still looks as clear as the video now, The print is soft to the touch and not brittle, almost feels like plastic vinyl.

FLEX100 is finally out, go grab some from Monocure 3D and give it a try.

For the guys that are printing intricate minis, this is going to make your minis last so much longer when been gamed with.

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comparison between AA and no AA printing. does look like it makes a difference.

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Good day, does any of you have both Anycubic Photon and the new Kelant Orbeat D100?

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Here is my FancySkull printed in SparkMaker LCD-N, hollowed with a 2mm shell.
The UV light gives it a nice spooky look - seems like the pigment in the resin does something with the UV light. I should have used the B9Creator support, the Photon slicer again places the support right through the model. Maybe I should have tilted the model a bit more.

The LCD-N resin is nice. Supports are hard to remove, even after curing. Whereas with the Anycubic green support snap off when bent, the supports of the LCD-N have to be cut off with a flush cutter or an exacto knife - they are hard to break off.

A quick layer of white Vallejo Surface primer (white) helps me in identifying where there are any support pimples that need to be removed.

More photos added, I also added some comments to the photos to explain the order of painting.

Well, this is about it.
After the white primer a black gloss, always use black under metal colors like bronze or gold, they bring out the shine. Then some bronze followed by a water wash of black/green/brown to give it a real weathered look.
Finally a bronze/gold dry brush to get the shiny details.

While putting on the final coat it almost look like too much shine but I think the photos look great.
Not bad after picking up painting again some 30 years after modeling as a kid ?

I used Vallejo model colors to paint this model. A white surface primer, Glossy Black (70.861), Bronze (70.998), Burnt Umber (70.941), Green RLM 62 (71.104) and Gold (70.996). The Green is from the "Model Air" series, it's thin airbrush paint but that's okay since it is used for the water wash.

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Hi guys. Just turned on my photon but it wont work :/ ...i get this, is it a power brick problem ?
I printed maybe 10 prints since i got it :/ havent used it much ....

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I have a small crack in my screen up in the upper right corner. I have no idea how this happened. I never printed with anything stuck to my FEP and I always make sure I am leveled.

It doesn't seem it affect prints (that I know of) but it is a concern. The UV test works fine. Where is the best place to get a replacement screen that doesn't require removing anything... a direct replacement type...

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After 5 or 6 months of storage in the vat, covered in a thick jacket and red windows (completely out of contact with light ). My white resin has begun to curing and and it is split into two parts, the top is transparent resin and the bottom is white. It still prints well, but just very difficult to clean the model with isopropyl.
So I think it might be that the air has caused my resin to cured ?

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https://instagram.com/p/BnvkE35FRhx/

Skeletor - Pre Build, looking good just have to glue and prime next. Nice colours with Monocure pigments # wanhaod7 # anycubicphoton # cr10 # skeletor # heroes3dcollectibles # 3dprinting # resin # dlp # monocure3d # 3dmaterials # zbrush # canon6d

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Woohoo. Success at last. 6 builds to get it right. Appears problem is the photon is shifting the bottom 1-2mm very far to the left only, See comment photos.. and this breaks the supports. Wonder what fresh new hell this is to fix!

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