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First print was a failure, any suggestions?

I Shook the shit out of the resin and made sure the build platform were level.

One thing I failed to do was verify the settings for the resin, I used the factory default settings.

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Last night I decided to do a service on my photon with 80+ hrs print time, heres a wrap up after 2.5 hrs.

- Change FEP!
- Complete wipe down of build volume with IPA
- Clean old grease of rods & Rails, regrease
- Polish the crap out of the LCD

All up it took me about 2.5 hours! Much longer then I anticipated.

Where I got stuck was the FEP change, this was my first time and I followed the instruction video here. but it was quiet fiddly - https://youtu.be/DLi3chV43LQ

- Before removing the old sheet, put the vat under UV light to cure any old resin
- There are many bolts to remove! keep them safe.
- Paper towels handy and do a complete clean of any old resin with IPA
- Getting the right tension is tricky, as you dont want it tight on the first sandwich, BUT not too loose either.
- I screwed this up twice, due to using a too high bottle cap.
- 13mm height for me was too high, I had to use around 10mm
- PUT SOFT TISSUE or MF cloth above bottle cap, or you will scratch the shit out of the new FEP. this will add to the height offset. ( I used 4 x 20c aud coins taped.
- Screw down 1 long side first, then the opposite, resit fep, then the short sides. finger strength tight using straight allen key will be enough,
- Avoid folding the fep or over deforming it.
- AGAIN the FEP needs to be loose on the first stage, but not SLOPPY
- The last sandwich requires a bit of muscle power
- Firstly you need to push in the FEP sandwish down into the VAT cavity with even force, this will start to tighten the fep, but it will need further tightening. you want to do this as much as possible before committing to the screws. At this stage you are sttretching the FEP sheet to sit in the cavity.
- Poke the holes per video and sit all the screws DO NOT TIGHTEN
- Start with the sides then the corner screws, tightening two 2 x turns each time
- Keep going until the FEP starts to become drum tight, then do half turns on each screw.
- You need to get the metal bracket about 1.5mm shy of the bottom side Vat walls, it should NOT sit flush on the bottom.
- Finally It should sound like a drum when you tap the fep, it should be nice and tight
- Relevel!

You may accidentally destroy the FEP on the first try, so its a good idea to have spares before attempting the change.
Don't scratch the FEP! :)

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Do i feel like I got a deal or what?

Update: First print came out great.

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So I replaced my z axis and motor and re-leveled several times using the Flint Read method. Every time the resin is on the FEP, not the build plate. I am printing an exact photon file have printed half a dozen times with no issues prior to changing the z axis and motor.
Anyone else run into this and/or have a solution?
Prior to changing the z axis and motor, I had levelled a couple times and had not had any issue - resin always stuck to the plate like it is supposed to. With AC support, it appears Mia, who was helping earlier is gone, and a new person, Zoe, is basically having me start all over. I've taken my machine apart to tighten and loosen things 3-4 times so far with the first round of support and had done so a couple other times before I even contacted them. Ugh.

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Just a little advice for those new to resin printing: support is EVERYTHING! Bad support will guarantee a bad print.

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Thanks for the add, still waiting for my photon delivery, before that I would like to know what are the common problem or issue to expect from thIs printer out of the box?

Hope can have some heads up to deal it if any, thanks in advance! ?

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My first print using Anycubic Photon 3D printer

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Just the latest print using wanhao orange! Still needs a bit of clean-up at the back but not bad. I'm currently using medium supports atm on std slicer. Has anyone been using the light as was going to try next. ?

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Which slicer can I use if I want to print directly on the print platform? The anycubic slicer always lifts the model 3,5mm up. I tried meshmixer, but I am not satisfied with the results

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