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My first printing in Anycubic Photon. Default settings of Anycubic Slicer.

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Real quick question guys do you know why my prints turn out like this after cleaning them I usually do a isopropyl alcohol bath then warm water with a toothbrush but they seem cloudy

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This is how my build plate ends up after levelling... No wonder I'm getting a raft thicker at one end than the other and notable distortion in the prints.... Any suggestions how to improve the squareness between the pillar and bed?

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Got the printer ? ? ? just started my first print on it using it for my print company using 2 fdm printers atm

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Is their any reason anycubic photon fep film sheets are 25$ a piece it's just a Teflon film right?

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He guys,

I just recieved my first order for a print but I really don't know what price to ask for it.. ?

Is there a program in wich you can calculate the costs of a print for resin use and stuff like that? Or what's a reasonable price for a small print?

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I'm trying to make a gadget that connects to a garden hose. It has gears inside and the water drives a mechanism. Just think sprinkler. In fact, I've stolen the guts of a sprinkler for the worm gears. Anyway, I started by using PETG with my filament printer, but I've had too many issues trying to make it watertight. Water finds its way through microscopic holes in the FDM layers. So I gave the Photon a shot.

The resin printing eliminates the layer issues and makes truly watertight enclosures. However, I have a different problem. The plastic is weak. My device works fine at lower water pressures, but when I turn the water pressure up, the enclosure literally explodes from the internal pressures. It's quite dramatic. I'll also add that there is a seam, which I close with resin and then cure with a UV light. I do this in layers. I then reinforce it with a couple coat of epoxy. It is not the seam that is failing. The walls just shatter. The plastic, itself, loses its integrity.

Now, I'm not a mechanical engineer, so maybe there are tricks to the mechanical design that would add strength in all the right places. That aside, the plastic is not strong enough. I'm using Nova3D clear. I actually like it better than the Anycubic resin because it is less viscous and the clear makes it possible to see right into the enclosure, so I can see the mechanics at work.

My question is whether anyone can recommend a stronger resin. Or maybe there is an additive I can mix into the resin to make it stronger? Otherwise, I am going to have to go back to the PETG and try coating the interior with epoxy, which is going to be a major headache.

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I bought the Wanhao Black Resin, the first prints with the settings from Artur Fuste's resin spreadsheet went quite wrong, so I quickly did the resin exposure test. With resin-test-50u.B100.2-20.photon you couldn't even see the numbers under the columns, so i did the slow resin tests (resin-test-50u.B150.6-60.photon, resin-test-50u.B150.10-100.photon, resin-test-50u.B150.20-200.photon). See pictures…

Now I wonder which column is my resin sweetspot and why the exposure values differ so much from my tests and the resin spreadsheet?

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My simple trick use to add support. I would use Orientation in Meshmixer for complex model like figurine. Put Support Area with value: 1; it will calculate and turn your model with smallest area need to support. Import model to Photon slicer and generate auto support. Save file as STL and open to Prefrom software. It will show you unsupported island. Check it and add more support manually in Photon slicer. I hope this will help you.

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Layer high 0.02
Normal layer 7s

JnJ3Dmall

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