Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

I have this prototype of a mechanism that is driven by water under (residential) pressure, like a sprinkler. It has several chambers, so I print it in layers and glue the layers together such that the housing traps the axles that the gears rotate on and hold the other elements of the mechanism in place. It requires about six of these glue ups.

I've been using XTC-3D, which is a two part epoxy, as the adhesive. It generally works well, but for reasons that elude me the epoxy sometimes does not cure completely and a boundary will separate under pressure at some point. I can pry them apart and the epoxy is tacky. This is after a couple of weeks.

Does anyone have a favorite adhesive that they use for their resin prints for structural parts? I do use CA glue for some things and that generally works well, but I can't use it in all circumstances. The epoxy is great in that it has a reasonably long set time, which is good for some of the more complicated assemblies.

My assemblies do have a couple locator pins for alignment and I added a tiny channel to one glue surface of each assembly to trap glue and add some surface. It is mainly a butt joint, though. Epoxy is probably the answer, but I find the XTC-3D to be unreliable. I don't know if it just really fussy about the mix ratio.

翻譯年糕

New lifting problem solved. I print enclosures flat on the build plate. As I have said several times in this forum, you can do that without a problem if you use vent holes to avoid the suction problem. Well, the past few days I've been chasing a problem with the front edge of my prints lifting off the platform. At the worst, it shredded the front of the model. At the best, the bottom was just lifted a bit. Without going through all of my debugging efforts, I can tell you exactly what the problem was.

I cleaned the glass. I noticed the area of the glass, under the tray, was a little cloudy toward the front, which is where I was having the problem. It definitely was not enough to affect the light; I've had worse on the film. I'm almost positive that it was causing the film to stick to the glass. Before cleaning, I was getting a mild peel sound, which I chalked up to other factors. After cleaning, I got the nice loud popping sound, like just after I replaced the FEP film. I think the dirty glass was inhibiting the FEP film from stretching up properly, which caused peeling issues. My print came out perfect after cleaning.

If you are struggling with adhesion problems and you think you had everything dialed in, I suggest giving the glass a good cleaning. I just alternated between a paper towel moistened with IPA and a dry paper towel until there no streaks left.

翻譯年糕

So Garret Bertrand posted a link to a FormsLab in another thread.
https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Model-Orientation…

It's a really interesting video about theory with tips on how to use the FormsLab printers, but at about 7:40 into the video, it said something absolutely shocking. It says that the machine is programmed to compress the initial layers to promote adhesion and that your print can come up a little short in the Z direction.

Does the Photon do that? I was just noticing yesterday that a gear I printed flat that was supposed to be 2.5 mm thick was only 2.0 mm thick. I added 0.5 mm to the model and it came out to 2.5 mm on the money. I've noticed small differences in height before and thought it was a scaling issue. I sometimes scale the Z axis by 2% to compensate, but if the Photon is actually eating 0.5 mm at the bottom of the print then that would be a revelation!

翻譯年糕

Does anyone know what the LED light source should look like? I've taken a picture of mine. It looks like there are four small clusters of LEDs, but there is a space in the middle with room for two more. Just wondering if anyone has looked at this before. Note that the other blobs of light are reflections off the angled reflector.

翻譯年糕

I never did get the sample lattice cube to print properly, so I just moved on to printing my own models. The data stick only had a photon file, so I was not able to play with any of the parameters. I'm just curious where people are getting the lattice cube stl file and the Eiffel Tower stl.

翻譯年糕

I had something very strange happen today and it is actually the second time it has happened in the past month. I printed something that took an hour or so. When it was done, there was nothing on the platform and there was no cured resin at the bottom of the tray. I don't know how that can happen. The UV light was coming on because I could see it through one of the little gaps in the frame. The layers were showing up on the LCD screen. The only thing that seems possible is that the LCD mask just didn't let any light through. Even though the display LCD was showing the current layer, the LCD mask was not. That's the only explanation I can think of.

Note that I always use four base layers and I always wait until I hear the peel on at least the first couple before I walk away. In this case, obviously, I heard no peel, but I didn't stop the print because it was the very first time I was using a new resin. After it failed, I literally just restarted the print and it worked fine (after verifying there was no cured resin anywhere).

Anyway, just wondering if anyone else has seen this happen.

翻譯年糕

I have been using my original FEP on my tray since I started using the Photon almost two months ago. As a newbie, I learned that the sheet will get marred or dented by trying to scrape bits of plastic off with your fingernail or with the plastic scraper they provide, so I don't do that any more. You can also get some scratch patterns if you rub too hard with a paper towel, so I don't do that anymore. But I also found that the system is pretty forgiving. None of those issue seemed to have a significant impact on my prints.

Yesterday, I had a problem where a tiny bit of cured resin was stuck on the FEP and I couldn't get it off. It almost like a single LCD pixel wasn't masking. I'm not suggesting that was actual the case; it just seems like that would produce the artifact. Anyway, I decided it was time to replace the film.

I have to say that having a brand new film is very satisfying. It is crystal clear and I feel confident that I know how to take care of it now.

The process for replacing the film was straightforward and went very well. The only tiny, insignificant nit is the whole "using a bottle cap" to set the proper initial tension. Seriously? A bottle cap? The bottle cap I used had a little bit of knurling on it that did actually get transferred to the film. The final tensioning all but made it disappear, but the whole bottle cap thing seems a bit ridiculous to me.

So my question is, has anyone gone ahead and modeled something to use in place of the bottle cap? If not, has anyone thought about it? The video says a height of about 13mm. It doesn't say anything about the diameter, though. Also, does it make sense to make something more lozenge shaped, since the tray is rectangular? Maybe some kind of guide to keep it centered while working on the screws?

翻譯年糕

I'm trying to make a gadget that connects to a garden hose. It has gears inside and the water drives a mechanism. Just think sprinkler. In fact, I've stolen the guts of a sprinkler for the worm gears. Anyway, I started by using PETG with my filament printer, but I've had too many issues trying to make it watertight. Water finds its way through microscopic holes in the FDM layers. So I gave the Photon a shot.

The resin printing eliminates the layer issues and makes truly watertight enclosures. However, I have a different problem. The plastic is weak. My device works fine at lower water pressures, but when I turn the water pressure up, the enclosure literally explodes from the internal pressures. It's quite dramatic. I'll also add that there is a seam, which I close with resin and then cure with a UV light. I do this in layers. I then reinforce it with a couple coat of epoxy. It is not the seam that is failing. The walls just shatter. The plastic, itself, loses its integrity.

Now, I'm not a mechanical engineer, so maybe there are tricks to the mechanical design that would add strength in all the right places. That aside, the plastic is not strong enough. I'm using Nova3D clear. I actually like it better than the Anycubic resin because it is less viscous and the clear makes it possible to see right into the enclosure, so I can see the mechanics at work.

My question is whether anyone can recommend a stronger resin. Or maybe there is an additive I can mix into the resin to make it stronger? Otherwise, I am going to have to go back to the PETG and try coating the interior with epoxy, which is going to be a major headache.

翻譯年糕