Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I got some fep from fepshop (standard 150 and 127) and noticed that compared to the ones that come with the Photon they seem to be more cloudy and less transparent. Should I worry ? What experience do you guys have with it ?

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ATOMICZ gets a miniature made ! As it gets warmer out, my photon seems to print better. Its about 55-60 degrees out.

I took a file I found on thingiverse and added the text to it.

The tires/wheels must be slightly angled to print like that, leaving the weird lines. The bottom of the body isnt flat. But good enough.

Wanhou white

50
10
1
65
15

Heavy and light supports. Auto supports and then I added supports.

Hollowed out to 1.25mm thick with 6 drain holes in the bottom with Meshmixer.

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How to stop your screen from being damaged by accident.

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Hi there. I noticed some replies blaming undercuring (or undercuring looking) problems of mid-print parts on bad leveling. And those statements (please correct me if I am wrong) don't seem to make much sense. From what I know leveling is ONLY important to the first layers and sticking the print to the platform, after that the print is aligned to the vat by design. I made an image to illustrate that even with a bad leveling if you get pass those first layers all the other layers are perfectly aligned.
To have a better community I think we need to discuss these things and have a proper knowledge base.

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The Gorwa Read screen damage preventative method.....

Ok I am seeing a lot of screens getting broken by removal of the vat, The stock Photon screen protector is not glued in very firmly, This is by design as it needs to be able to be removed by the user when you need to replace the LCD due to the UV light eventually breaking it down, So the LCD is a long term consumable,

what is happening i think is that the fep is flat on the screen and the suction that develops with the fluids weight and the printing is pulling the screen protector out.

You can prevent this by running some tape around the edge of the screen to stick it more firmly to the bed, This has the added bonus of stopping an accidental leak from getting in there too.

If your screen is ok and you have not done this I STRONGLY recommend you do it before your next print, and save the heart ache of an accidentally broken screen.

Remember to level again after you do this though you can use the Flint Read method although cheaper less effective methods of levelling are available.

Be careful out there Photonsters.

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Testing see if this will help. 80mm fan , 2 layers of carbon filter + 1layer of HEPA filter。
**Update - changed the design from push-through to pull-through. ..

** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2882962 don't expect it to fit perfectly, might need some drilling or sanding ?

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First "failed" print. I have one z-line where something went wrong probably because of surface area and height and also a piece of the collar is off because maybe one support was not enough. I am redoing the print today and also testing the full plate concept as besides I am also printing 2 Oculus Rift wall mounts.

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NOOOOOOO.curse you flint reed and your outstanding bed setting technique... still calling it a success.

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Anycubic white resin with “calibration matrix”.

Left: 13 second exposure, 1 off, 50 bottom exposure, 8 layers.

Right: 15 second exposure, 1 off, 50 bottom exposure, 8 layers.

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HARZ Labs Model resin, adapted to LCD technology

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