ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

Nicely done - you should post these on Thingiverse.

Did you use a raft to support the parts, or just build them directly on the printer bed?

OK, I will post later, and only use mouse ear. :)

The last part of your post was translated as "mouse ear". Can you please try again with different words. Thanks.

http://www.makerbot.com/....../mouse-ears-defeat....../

Ah yes - mouse ears. How silly of me not to recognize them.

通常簡單的東西就是很難想到~ 讚!

You can find a customizable version on thingiverse, customizable for the numbers of rows and columns, battery diameter, side wall height, etc

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:51376

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:48235

Thanks ~

好漂亮!

Thanks ~

讀得到就可以..但大不見得好
通常4G, 8GB就已經很夠用了
相容性問題有時候跟容量大小沒有絕對關係

那 ~ ~
可用 16 G 的 SD 卡 ?? …… 查看更多

因為 之前 的卡 都是 採購 16G的

若可支援 且 穩定 就可 繼續使用 不用採購了 ~

越低階越好用

收到
了解 …… 查看更多

就插看看..用了沒問題就用;p

Ok. Try It

Cool

說明書沒有?

我手上的2.0說明書沒看到完整分解圖，就慢慢拆，可惜沒有早一點看到你整理的筆記

How about clean the glass by alcohol?

Yes, I will try that. Right now I'm trying the same part with a 10% triangular raft - my first attempt at printing with a raft.

Gosh, there sure is a lot to learn about this stuff.

Could you compare the first few lines of the gcode? Bypass the comment .
Looks like a little too high on first layer.
Did you use bed roughness on kisslicer?

Yes, I did compare the initialization lines from both slicers. The Craftware slicer includes an M83 command that blows the Atom2 right out of thw water! I had to reload Atom2's firmware to recover from this. So I commented out the M83 command and the GCode ran fine.

Just a power cycle reset should be ok to recover from it.

Continued......

Comparing the 2 sets of GCode shows they are pretty similar, but many of the statements are in different order. Since it is all initialization I don't this the order affects printing much, if at all.

No, I have never used bed roughness - is there any reason to, considering it is a piece of plate glass?

This is the start of the Craftware GCode:

; GCode generated by CraftWare
G28 ; Auto-Home
G29 Z+0.5 ;Auto-Level
G1 F6000 Z50 ;lift nozzle
G0 X0 Y-100 Z50 ;parking+
G0 Z20 ;parking
M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z2000.00 E9000.00 ;max acceleration

M109 S200 ;set and wait head temperature
; commented out M83
GF500E5 ; startup extrude modified from GF100E30
; ------------------------------------
; Layer #0
; ------------------------------------
G21 ; mm
G90 ; abs
G92 E0 ; reset extr
M106 S0
;segType:Skirt
G0 F1800 E-9.000
G0 F3000 Z0.300
G0 F3000 X-26.191 Y26.613

And this is the start of its code for Layer 1:

; Layer #1
; ------------------------------------
G21 ; mm
G90 ; abs
G92 E0 ; reset extr
M106 S255
;segType:Perimeter
G0 F1800 E-9.000
G0 F3000 Z0.600
G0 F3000 X30.167 Y-3.193
G0 F1800 E0.500
G1 F1200 X30.671 Y-2.779 E0.5309
G1 X30.734 Y-1.895 E0.5729

So the M83 already removed from the Craftware->Slice->Gcode Script-> Header ?
Looks fine to me

I put the comment in there to take out the m83. The previous version of craft are did not have that command. I don't know why this newest version includes it.

Birk Binnard
http://www.birkbinnard.com

To solve this I used the brut-force technique - replaced all the Craftware GCode up to where it starts actual printing with corresponding Kisslicer GCode.

I also discovered that if you use a slicer that supports bed heating, and you forget to tell the slicer that you have no heated bed, the slicer will put in commands to heat and cool down the heated bed. These commands cause Atom2 to do bad vibrations that require power-off and on. I also did firmware reload just to be sure.

@@ Strange, there should be no loading at all, but might be board design difference. But without HeatBed there but request the M190, the gcode might never start the print since no Heatbed there.

Playing with craftware yesterday.
I like the "Drawing order" option. Got more choice.
My setting : atom2.cwsp
https://onedrive.live.com/redir......

It's just a start point for reference, but may not for standard ATOM2.0.
Since I have some customize tuning on my ATOM 2.0 Beta.

BTW, the 3D animation tips is cool on Craftware.
http://youtu.be/7a9eB2M1yaI

Thanks for posting your Craftware settings. I will definitely try them out. I really like Craftware's excellent visualization capabilities and hope to make it my default slicer once I come up with a good set of parameter settings. I think I'm pretty close to that now.

Clarence - a couple of comments& questions on your Craftware settings:

1. On Advanced tab I switched Source Direction to Random Position. Doing this avoids a visible exterior seam when printing something with concentric layers.

2. I've been slowly increasing my printing speed - I'm up to 45 mm/sec now. Looks like 50 mm/sec works well for you - I'll try that.

3. I had my Retract & Prime length set to 3 and that resulted in some very thin strings, so I was going to change it to 5. But I''ll go to 6 based on your settings.

4. Are you printing PLA at 225 C? That seems hot to me. So far I've done everything at 200 C, but I only have used plain PLA so far.

5. With the laters version of Craftware I've had to replace the startup and shutdown GCode with comparable lines from Kisslicer. Otherwise my Atom2 goes crazy when starting the next print and requires reloading firmware. Has hat been your experience too?

Thanks again for posting your settings.

1. random should be fine.

2. My stepper motors, controller board, stepper drivers all different from the ATOM 2.0 Release. So, may not apply the same.

3. My extruder PTFE tube is as short as 600mm, I moved the extruder stepper motor down for shorter PTFE tube. But yes, increase to 5.5/ 6 or even 6.5 still worth a try. Actually the E step speed / acceleration is important here.

4. I tested my PLA different temperature on a thin wall cylinder, to determine the best strength temperature. I would check it on every new opened PLA.

5.Strange, mine is 1.09 beta. no this issue.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir......
gcode for 4.
Please remember to uncomment the G29 & set right Z+0.x for your printer if needed.

My gcode from craftware for reference.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir......
https://onedrive.live.com/redir......

Thanks ; I'll try your gcode in the morning and post my results.

Well I've managed to (I think) get Craftbot's GCode to the point where I don't have to switch out the startup & shutdown sections, but there is something wrong with the extruder code somewhere. What happens is the extruder motor turns far faster than it should; when the print starts the extruder wheel start turning about 2 - 3 RPM which is way too fast.

Needless to say the hot end can't accept filament that fast so the extruder wheel generates lots of little filament pieces trying to force-feed the hot end.

I've tried to figure out what controls the extruder motor but haven't quite got there yet.

It looks like all that's needed for my standard Atom2 is to comment out 2 lines of GCode that Craftware generates: the M83 command and the GF100E30 command. I am printing an interesting part now with those settings and, assuming it finishes OK, I will start another thread with specifics about the settings and a copy of my Craftware parameters.

先確定一下是不是量測誤差~ XD

再來調整要統一縮放多少~

沒有測量誤差，不知道要如何改善

昨天印的短向為x軸，相同尺寸但是三個點尺寸不一樣

請各位前輩教導

切片軟體一般有個選項是指輪廓要由外圈先印, 還是內圈先印, 各有不同的應用場合.

你有嘗試過外圈先印?

另外會不會是填充填太飽? 填充比例是?

我試試，謝謝您的指導

三個點當時速度不一樣,中間那點速度較快,相對出料量較少

那要如何改善

填充比率為16.7

現印外圈，但是尺寸一樣沒有比率的變化，靠近銀幕的比較接近，另一邊尺寸變好大

我的機器是ATOM2.0，是不是我機器哪裡有問題