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I've seen so many posts about continually failed parts lately. Until yesterday I was one of them.

I was attempting to change the settings in the g-code to slow the lift speed when I realized the current website firmware release has a typo in the parameter file.
M8015 P1 and M8016 P2
SHOULD BE
M8015 T1 and M8016 T2
(The number after the last letter is a speed setting, yours may be different)

These two settings control the peel and lift speed which is why, if you have updated the firmware with your new printer, it's ripping off the plate at high speed and supports are failing.

HOW TO FIX: search for the GitHub repository within the Facebook group, download firmware 4.2.5 and follow the install instructions.

Also: download the "Updated factory default translated g-code" from the GitHub. It will explain what all the g-code means and you can use it as a direct replacement for the Chinese g-code parameter file in the firmware by replacing it on your firmware USB stick.
To change any setting at any time, all you have to do is open it in any text editor such as note pad, then save and print the gcode file on the photon (you will have to reset your zero every time you do).

SECONDLY: I sanded my built plate and realised it was 1-2mm bowed on the perimeter from the casting process (proof pictures attached). This absolutely does not qualify as "flat" and afterwards I have no parts coming off the build plate.

If after you sand your plate flat (using a piece of sandpaper placed on a sheet of glass) you are still having problems, replace your FEP film and wipe a thin layer of pure PTFE grease (no rust inhibitors like would be in bike chain lube) on the resin side of the film. This will solve all sticking issues during normal exposures and increase overall toleraces by reducing stresses. This will not affect the resin performance as PTFE is highly stable.

LASTLY: Properly tighten your Z axis rail! Search on YouTube for a how to video. Mine shipped much too loose and I wasted time getting less than expected resolution. I now have zero play and no clicking when I wiggle the plate.

I'm shocked that this thing has the good reviews that it does, it's been a nightmare. But then again most of us bought it for the pricetag, post engineering is to be... expected?

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Has anyone calibrated their machine to find the %error referenced from CAD? It'd be convenient to know if someone has found the correction factor for each axis to hit precise dimensions as I'm seeing skewing (a 1mmx1mmx1mm cubed might need to be scaled by 105%x100%x107%, etc. to print as an actual cube).

I know that there will always be some UV leakage that thickens walls, I'm talking about round parts being round not oval, and spheres being equal diameter all around.

I know, I know, I COULD do it myself, But maybe one of you can give me a starting point to save resources.

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