Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Guys, I have no idea where to even begin here. Any help is welcome. Help me learn how to make his ring amazing!

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This is a sliced 3D model of a Battletech Warhammer. Layer Thickness: .025, Exposure: 9.7, Off Time: 1.5, Bottom Exposure: 65.5, Bottom Layers: 8.

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Hey friends! I've been printing 28mm tabletop miniatures on the Anycubic Photon for a while now with Monocure Rapid Clear. I've been liking the quality, but the durability has been a bit brittle... does anyone have a recommendation for a more hearty resin for tabletop miniatures? Thanks!

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Complete newb here. I’m pretty good with FDM but learning DLP now. I have two questions... 1) my prints tend to warp, away from the bed, after cleaned. Is it the IPA soak time or another cause? And 2) I tend to have slight mounds at support contact areas. Am I under curing? I’m using the 8 second recommended time and anycubic resin. Thanks in advance for any responses!!

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Does anyone ever noticed that whenever a surface is parallel to the build plate, the first 3 ~4 layers of the surface distorts a bit or gets pulled away from the build plate. What is the solution to avoid this phenomenon, or there is some issues in accuracy whenever the first few layers of a parallel surface to build plate is formed

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Hi All :)

I haven't posted in a week or two because I've been busy printing and learning the various software editors. I've learned a lot in the past few weeks and right now I'm working on a custom 007 Golden Gun :)

I just want to say, and this is going to sound like a fanboy comment but it isn't mean that way... I found a great use/purpose for the Bucktown resin. I personally think it prints very well and with great detail, although the clear (with my settings is yellow). Here is what I am using it for and think it is perfect for- prototyping and test printing. It is inexpensive so it's not so bothersome when a print is blown off or when you print a object knowing you have to tweak it and reprint it several times. It's also pretty clean in my opinion. Being a 'clear' it doesn't dirty up my IPA as bad as the darker resins (I know and understand there is still resin left in the IPA). It also seems to clean up on my FEP really good too. I'm still using my original FEP and I am probably well over 100 prints by now.

I've had to do multiple prints on the Golden Gun and this is when I realized how much I like the low cost of the Bucktown. I'm using various stls and looking at the best ones for TMWTGG prop and then using those to custom make parts. This will end up being a hybrid of 3D printed parts and some metal parts. I may even eventually use an actual Colibri pen and lighter case and then add custom 3D printed parts to make it all work. This of course requires A LOT of printing :) I think I am even ready for another Photon so I can speed this work up. I'm kinda holding out for the next version and hoping it's a bigger build plate, but I really could use a second one now. :)

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Amazballs again!!! Printed at 50% 0.05 ? ? ?

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Should I even bother to make my first prints on so scratched FEP film? And is this normal that they send new printer with film in such condition?

我應該在如此划傷的fep電影上做我的第一個指紋嗎? 他們送新印表機, 這種狀況是正常的嗎?

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Thanks for adding me :)

As you can see on my profile pic, i'm a model railroader. Doing precise, small and scaled stuff. I was planning to print my models at Shapeways, but due to the number of pieces needed and the price, I prefered to buy my own printer.

I needed a printer that was both affordable and could make highly detailled prints. FDM printers wasn't the solution, due to their layer's thickness and the need of sanding the models after printing to have a good and smooth finished surface. After a quick research, I found that DLP printers might be the solution. The video of Luke Towan (a famous modeller) about the Anycubic Photon conviced me that this was the printer I needed.

So yesterday, I received my Photon. I still didn't printed anything, i'm waiting to receive some isopropyl to clean the models after printing. Planning to print some narrow gauge hawaiian-inspired locomotives and rolling stock, here's some screenshots of the 3D model in the slicer. The model is still not 100% finished though ? ?

I have a question : in the slicer, where we can choose the layer thickness, we can go down to 0,01mm. But is the printer able to do that ?

Thanks for answering :)

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