Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

If I drop a piece made with Wanhao or Anycubic resin from a height greater than 1m, it tends to break. This does not happen with traditional injected plastics. How can I increase the mechanical strength of the manufactured parts?

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I still can't print.

My problem is that during the printing process, something causes the printer to restart right before turning on the light.

I wanted to bring my problems back up to the surface as I have learned a great deal in the previous thread (thank you César Fernández !) and I think getting some more eyes on it might help.

I have already replaced the power supply. I have already replaced the USB drive (twice). Those things didn't appear to have any effect. I tried gently jostling the internals during all phases of printing, no sparks. I tried putting pressure on the build platform during Z-axis movement, both up and down, it seemed unaffected. I've cleaned everything meticulously with IPA and microfiber cloths.

I have tried many times to print dry (without any resin in the vat), and all of those prints have *succeeded*. Only two wet prints have succeeded so far, on with a single heroforge mini, and one with the demo cube/logo model. I have tried the same exact hero forge mini again, and it failed the second time (the same restart).

To make a more apples-to-apples comparison with the demo model, I started using this little guy (pictures below), as it more closely matches the smaller footprint of the demo cube. I just did a dry run with him this morning, and it printed all the way through just fine, so this afternoon I tried with resin, four times.

All four died the same way within the first 30 layers. I was only watching closely for the first two, one died at layer 4, and the other at layer 8, the other two got into the low twenties before dying. The death occurred just after the Z-Axis movement, the movement completes without a problem, both up and down, and then it sits there for a moment, as if it's about to turn on the light and expose, but the touch screen remains black (with the controls on the right), and then after 4-5 seconds, simply restarts, as if it crashed.

After those four I drained again and am doing another dry-run, it's into the hundreds now, without issue. I can confidently say that this issue only shows up when resin is present.

I'm almost out of resin, I can maybe do one or two more attempts, and then I'll have gone through the whole bottle just trying to troubleshoot. I contacted support, and they have suggested replacing the mainboard, which they have sent, but I'm uncomfortable with this solution as it doesn't actually tell me why this is happening, so I can't be sure it will solve the problem.

Does anyone have any more clues as to what I might try, before the mainboard arrives, to try to debug this issue? Does anyone have any theories on what would cause this problem *only when resin is present* (especially given that putting pressure on the plate has no effect)?

Thank you all.

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Question. If I create a single model and 3d print it, everything comes out fine. If I duplicate this model to print 6x at a time in Anycubic Photon Splicer, it prints the base and then everything sticks to the plastic at the bottom of the tray. Do I have to change the cure time or other settings if I go from 1 to multiple models? I would not think so, but my knowledge is limited at this time.

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Anyone had this issue...
So I performed the steps for the z-wobble video.
Now when I print, it gets to about layer 20-30 and the print job just stops and the screen goes back to the main menu.
I can see cured resin on the build plate and I can hear the ripping sound between base layers.
Also, the fan is louder than it was before doing the steps, I may just need to confirm I didn't get any wires in the way of the fan.
Thoughts?

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Hey guys! So I live an apartment and the resin for this thing are really bad. I tried setting up a air filtration system, but I can still smell it while printing. :/ . Posted pictures of what I bought and how I have it set up. Anyone have recommendations?? Flint Read

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Hello everybody !

First of all, thanks for accepting me in the group. So, my brother recently bought the Photon, and had very good results from the start with Anycubic's green resin, with the stock settings in the slicer.
Now he is trying out the black one, but he's having way more troubles finding a setting that is right. Does any of you have experience with Anycubic black resin ? Maybe some settings to share, or a benchmark print to recommend ?
To be more precise, he's having trouble to obtain sharp text, and tried different exposure times and off times, with no success.

Thank you in advance for your answers :)

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TUTORIAL TIME! If you ever end up IN THIS situation, Changing FEP and it rips and leaves the frame stuck inside the channel, DO NOT TRY TO PRY OUT AROUND THE EDGES! Put it into an IPA bath for at LEAST 24 hours, then use a hair dryer to heat up the parts(spend a good 8-10 minutes doing this). Then take a PHILLIPS (Cruciform) head screwdriver small enough to fit it the main screw holes but big enough to almost fill it. Find the edge of the frame and push down on the handle carefully lifting each edge of the frame. I, personally, left my vat in IPA for 3 days.

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What would cause a print to spontaneously stop printing in the middle of a print?

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Testing Ameralabs black LED. Very nice resin, fastest cure time ever. 5.5s. Only issue : very poor bed adhesion. Haven't been able to finish prints with a lot of FEP contact area.

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Hi all, anyone using Bluecast @ the Photon? Looking for a good 0.025 mm setting Hi all, anyone using Bluecast @ the Photon? Looking for a good 0.025 mm setting 翻譯年糕