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Good job I looked closely at this bottle of Anycubic White before I started shaking it! Open bottle, half used up, that has been on a shelf for about 3 months. Any tips on safely making sure the contents are properly mixed, without shaking?

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Two prints done a few months ago with Anycubic green, identical settings aside from orientation, and left in a box in a dark place since. They are N scale rail wagons. The top one is pretty significantly bowed inward, the closer one doesn't seem to show any sign of bowing. What might explain this? One of them under or over cured, or something like that?

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Black resin recommendations? I've managed to print a replacement part for a very small part of a very small model train (1:220 / Z scale) - it's a part that will have an even smaller metal part running back and forth through it when the train moves (a steam cylinder). So I suspect the black paint I've put on might end up rubbing off the white resin I happen to be using at the moment. Black resin seems like a better solution. Any recommendations? Are any better than others for mechanical applications like this?

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JUST enough resin! :)

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What should I do when I have only a small amount of one type of resin left in the vat if I'm not planning to get more of that type/colour? Just at the end of the free bottle of Anycubic Green, and the next bottle I bought was Anycubic White (just on the basis it was slightly cheaper than other colours from Amazon).
Looking at the spreadsheet, AC White needs much longer exposure times than AC Green. So I figure its probably a bad idea to mix them?
Just drain it out into the bottle and throw it out? Perhaps try printing quick\thin parts until it fails by running out?

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What's gone wrong? This STL had printed fine several times, but this time is very stepped and distorted. There were several extra bits projecting off the roof of the wagon in very thin layers. When I cleaned up the vat, there was a large rectangular smear of resin cured on, as well as a jelly-like shadow of the supports of the STL.

The previous print just an hour or two before was absolutely fine - but thinking about it, I had noticed some kind of bubbles under the FEP, and gave the bottom of the FEP and top of the screen a gentle wipe with some paper tissue slightly moistened with IPA. I thought it was dry before putting the vat back - but perhaps it wasn't, and the moisture trapped under the FEP caused the problem? (Refraction issues?)

With this much resin cured onto my FEP in such a thin layer, which seems very difficult to get off, is the FEP ruined?

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In ChiTuBox, or anything else equivalent, is it possible to save a "project" and keep the supports editable? Seems like both Photon Slicer and ChiTuBox only "Save" as STL files (as opposed to export sliced files) - which locks the supports into a single object. I often want to just make a small edit or delete to the supports to try a second print after a small failure - seems really annoying to have to start from scratch with designing supports!

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Interesting failure here. More experiments with the model railway van, this time using ChiTuBox and some bigger uplifts from the build platform. The bottom corner is pulled out away by at least 5mm or more. The supports that should have been under that corner printed fine, but aren't connected. I noticed that I'd unintentionally ended up with some supports that START from the inside of the body, just above this corner - is that the cause of the failure at the bottom?

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This is the first model I've printed from my own design - its a 1900s railway wagon in 1:152 scale. I angled the body in two axis in the Photon slicer to try and avoid too much stepping. However, while the sides of the wagon that faced more "away" from the build plate, those that were angled toward the plate both have a kind of bulge about half way up. This seems to be a bulge at the corner where the roof started printing. I'm guessing this is a suction type issue with the bulkier roof parts being supported by the one corner? My design was kind of hollowed, but the roof is still quite thick. I'm planning to try again with more hollowing. Any suggestions for optimising the print angle for this type of design? Given that the whole thing is pretty small, would a solid part actually work better in terms of suction forces? Stock anycubic green resin with 0.2mm layers, Slicer auto supports.

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Several people have suggested using microfibre cloth to clean the vat and FEP film, instead of paper towels. But how do you then clean the microfibre? Rinse it in IPA each time? Seems a bit awkward when there's usually quite a bit of resin on the towel, which you can just throw away!

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