Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

lvoe it

WOW!

Boiling helps a lot b4 curing

Try to print with parts separated

Only need 1 good side, doesn’t matter which ?

try to wet sand with ipa

What part is that?

I know a gouf flight pack when I see it ?

Richard Flanagan a man of culture indeed

PrusaSlicer > Optimize Orientation; PrusaSlicer > Auto Supports at 75% > save STL with supports; Chitubox > Slice; Validator > Fix

(hollow in Chitubox or Meshmixer before hand if you need to).

This has been a game changer for me. If the part is TOO complex, cut it and print in parts.

I don't understand why everyone follows this workflow so religiously. Prusaslicer misses a lot of overhangs which chitubox will usually pick up on the first go.

Shawn Michael Rains I've had exactly the opposite experience, and have yet to have a failure using this work flow.

But like all things 3D printing, your mileage may vary.

Just in water? Or combined with a detergent for cleaning?

Harrie Kools clean it first with your cleaner and then boil it till the supports are soft be careful u can break the hole thing if your not careful

I don't even boil. Just after initial cleaning I run them under hot water and the supports basically melt off. Just be careful with anything that's thin.

But definitely always remove supports B4 curing.

At least with anycubick black and monocure clear I clean with hot water and liberal amount of detergent. Then remove supports and cure. So I was wondering if I could clean in boiling water and get even better results :)

It’s a good thing ?

If you don’t hear that you haven’t got a print

Thanks!

I'VE BEEN HEARING IT AS WELL AND HOLY SHIT I WAS SCARED thank you for answering this question :)

It's a good sound. What you are hearing is the cured resin being lifted from the FEP. Meaning that the print is sticking to the build plate and not your FEP. When starting a print always sit and listen for that pop on the first couple layers. If you do n't hear it, then it's likely (though not always) that your print has already failed. As the print progresses and there is less surface area that is being cured that pop might be less audible.

Cure them in water

Placing them in a container with clean water under the UV light / direct sunlight helps.

hope this works!

Scrub with a soft toothbrush while in IPA. Don't just shake and/or stir.

this

i bought a specially soft tooth brush, just enough pressure so it moves the uncured resin but not harming the surface of the half cured model

I mix colors all the time. It’s fine.

Jeffery Nelson Siraya blu and anycubic white had pretty different settings, ended up with disastrous results the last time I accidentally used the wrong settings.

Shouldn't be a problem... I've never had failure from mixing resin

Settings?

Machine is not leveled, supports are too thin/few. I’d rotate the model on the x a bit too

No way to tell unless you give us your resin type and settings, and a pic of that model in the slicer,and support settings: that could be any number of things

I used the google spreadsheet data for Siraya blu.
0.05 layer, 12 sec exposure time, 5 secs off time, 30 secs bottom exposure, 8 bottom layers. Average temperature should be around 30-35 degrees but feels warmer than that (it’s Singapore, everything is warm as hell here)

Anders Scot Hudson I’ve recently leveled it using the sheet paper method, but I gotta admit that I’m kinda wonky on the technique.

I'm on my 5th failed print

Always run the cube for your first print, I tried doing more complex stuff, had 4 failed prints before I ran the cube, then it fell into place after. There is a reason they tell you to run the cube first

I would recommend to do an exposuretest, every time you take a new bottle of resin, even by the same colour. Search for "R_E_R_F" Test for the Anycubic Photon S by google, its really simple, fast and worth it.

Looks like you're trying to print large flat objects parallel to the build plate. If that's the case either support the heck out of the side that's failing or rotate it closer to 45 degrees to reduce the suction forces acting on that area as it prints

Looks similar to the anycubic abs like transparent blue, 0.05 mm layer, 60 sec first layers, 13 sec normal layers works for me. If your model is hollowed you need vent holes, also you should really angle your part instead of printing flat.

Few tips, tighten vat screws, build platform grub screw so that it is level and doesnt move, tighten the big red screw too that the bed wont move. Do not bumb the printer when running it, make sure it is on a sturdy table, any vibration amd the layers wont stick. Also, you can change the layer cure time while printing, just pres the gear image to go in to the settings. Mix the resin well... Many thing to go wrong so show us the slicer with your model, and the settings, also share info on the resin. Ive had my og photon for a year now, no issues due to machine, no broken screens, no leaks, works like a Mexican immigrant...

Also of course ive had failed prints, the basic mistakes, like not enough supports, moving printer while running, forgotten to tighten something, wrong settings(different resin, different settings) ambient temperature, letting the resin sit for too long in the vat and not mixing it... Many problems, from my own brain farts...

The main thing I notice is you’re using auto supports. Be sure to go in and modify your supports for any area that isn’t supported. Personally, I was having lots of failed prints until I learned the above and to increase the small support penetration level from 0.25 to 0.35 in the anycubic slicer. program.

I'm using medium supports currently.

Attempt 4: Did a reprint and it seems to work fine... until I decide to check out the progress and pressed pause. For some goddamn reason it suddenly thought the middle of the rail was the correct "zero" height and started moving around there instead of going back into the resin tank!

Attempt 5: Decided to keep my nosey ass out of the process. Realised that the tank looked pretty empty and decided to do a quick refill before I knock off. CONGRATS ON MY IDIOCY! Poured in anycubic white into the siraya blu by mistake. Office is closing, so I'll just leave it as it is and pray to whichever asian god that exists to PLEASE LET ME COMPLETE THIS PRINT!

Problem is, ithe object is a "turbine" so printing it perpendicular to the plate would have caused shitloads of supports. Thought I'll risk it...

Johnny Wee that’s one fix, but makes for more artifacts and more difficult to remove afterwards.

Pretty sure attempt 5 is fucked this time

Yeah I placed plenty of vent holes. Thought I'll risk the flat part as the main part was a turbine and it doesn't really have a lot of surface area.

Better more supports than a failed print though. You will have an awful surface finish on a large flat area that is supported parallel to the build plate unless it's supported enough to stop it sagging or tearing when the build plate lifts away from the fep. Better to avoid that by optimising the orientation. Try using prusa slicer to automatically orient it and see what it suggests.

He can use ball support at the end to reduce supports and vilevalidator

You could select the edge, then smooth out that selection, erase (you loose a little bit of the edge, and then have the inspector close the hole.

there's a inspector function in meshmixer? Sorry, newbie user here

on the left click Analysis, then select inspector, it will show some coloured balls, the pink ones are floating non attached parts, bleu is open holes, red is open hole but could create non manifold fix.

Meshmixer is not the most intuitive program to use, but watching lots of Youtube vids can really help, the best are the ones with dental fixtures, search " meshmixer dental"