Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

This guy should have a flat bottom surface but it turned out curved. Any idea why?

I use Anycubic Clear Resin
Layer Thickness: 0.05 mm
Normal Exposure Time: 8 s
Off time: 6.5 s
Bottom Exposure Time: 100 s
Bottom Layers: 8

And.. is it possible to make a really clear 3d printed product from clear resin?

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Can you cure with 395nm?
Looking at UV torches as my prints are only small.

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Hi guys, a little help? Anyone have experience printing dices? O have an idea on how should I orientate them? I printed flat on the bed and 3 of them failed and the other 3 where missing the face that was pointing at the bed

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Hi!
Looking for a resin that is compatible with the photon, and is appropriate to use in mechanical assemblies, so it can stand the wears and tears, even with tiny objects.

Any suggestions? Heard about Formlabs tough/rigid, and Peopoly tough resins, are those compatible with photon / did anyone use them already? Do they fit these requirements? Are there any other options maybe?

Thanks!

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Hey guys I think I got a issue lol.

I am investigating the photon file but any idea what went wrong to get a x axis squash head? The only thing I did after the slicer was to send it to the photon file validator and fix it.

One of the weirdess thing is that the head rotated 90 degree on the build plate and probably squash to fit inside the plate.

Update my photon slicer seems to have rotated my mesh how come?

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I use Chitubox and settings as below pics and I'm having some problems of the supports and a line that is quite obvious (red circled). Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks in advance.

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Hi guys. Yesterday, I've done my first print with Photon. It' a couple of Lego bricks. The print came out very nicely - lines are mostly straight, edges are sharp, surfaces are smooth (VERY smooth actually), blah blah, BUT vertical surfaces that are parallel with the X axis are not perpendicular to the build plate :-( . The shitty image shows it pretty well (sorry, my thousands years old phone won't focus ? ). To me, it looks like the Z axis isn't perpendicular to the table/vat bottom, so the build plate doesn't only move along the Z axis, but along the Y as well (and the X as well but that's almost unnoticeable). Might this be the old "good" z-wobble? Thanks for any help/tips :-) .

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If I'm printing something very small (0.5"x0.11"x0.6") is it really necessary to use supports?

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I'd just like to say thanks for all your help but its going back.

You have all been very kind but if all I can show for a 250ml bottle is a test cube and one model (thats warped) then plainly its not for me.

Again thank you all for your help and patience, maybe I'll try again later but for me, for now, back to filament.

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Leveling action durability!! Finally looks like I get rid of all my start up issues and I'll print on all the build plate, at 50 and even 20 micron of layer. BUT, what I understood is that the print action, and mainly when the layer went detached from the FEP film (with those adorable tiny "stack" that let you hope...) layer after layer move the build plate.... This happen most when you have non-simmetric print area. I observed that my plate went moved of approx 2mm (front was HI 2mm more) after 4-5 prints when I used the back area (at begin I was not able to print front due the build plate crappy machining-coating in such area, so I was used to print back....). Now I'm a strong guy, I think I broken all possible threads in my life building my bikes, I ensure you I close the central screw in the build plate, after leveling, at die..... What happen to you guys? How long a leveling action remains valid, how much prints?? You notice becouse a failure in the areas when the plate is "far" after a few prints.....

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