Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Stay positive ?? it can only get better from here on ?

Talk about a bad day

The spaghetti mess was a desktop organizer that made it to about 75% before it detached from the build plate due to warping. I’ll try again with some lowered cooling.

And the Photon fail would have been the Anywhere, Head, and Music Box keys from Locke & Key.

Every single time ?

Now you can eat noodles xD Carry on!

Yeah, wife's comment when she came up was "I stopped your printer, you have spaghetti"

We've all been there, keep on truckin

No worries, I've already got both printing away!

How do you find the Ender3? Thinking about ordering one to go with my photon.

I love it. I have 2 of them. The one I had the fail on is bone stock, (the fail was because my basement office was too cold so the PLA curled off the plate), and the seond is modified with a silent board and the Hemera direct drive

I may have to order a pro to play with during lockdown

What's your exposure set to, mine was 6s at 0.05mm and not much better

I’m not sure at the moment as my printer setup is away from home and we’re currently in lockdown in the UK.

All resins will yellow as they cure, its usually just not noticeable unless you have clear or white resin to start with.

Holy Crap. War Rocket Ajax!!

Needs a Ming impaled on the front :D

What kind of resin do you use? Great prints btw.

Shaun Reno anycubic grey, the one i bought originaly with the printer on amazon

Israël St-Gelais awesome. I’m having issues with mine still after a few weeks. Any chance you would take a picture of your settings for me?

Shaun Reno i used the setting on the chart for resin that is used by most ppl. I leveled the bed with the "read method". Then im auto-orienting and auto-support (70%) in prusaslicer. I export the whole thing in chitubox and VOILA.

Ill try to find the chart to post it to you if you would like to

Israël St-Gelais how long do your prints take, say for one mini? The chart looks like it has really long exposure times.

Depends, between 5 and 7-8 hours usually. I dont mind the time to get good results

Im printing a 8.5 hours one right now

Israël St-Gelais that’s how I feel but on the other hand, people are getting better results in three hours and it’s frustrating.

Depend on the size of the mini, usually part under a inch high take around 2-3 hours yes, but im usuallly printing around 10cm high at least

Israël St-Gelais gotcha.

There are a few different choices for grey on the chart. Would you mind taking a pic of your setting screen and sending it to me? I’d really appreciate it.

Shaun Reno there you go my dude <3

Israël St-Gelais thanks bud.

Where did you find the winged model?

Great prints!

Tim Parks lord of the print patreon

Israël St-Gelais Thanks

Having the same issue with my first few prints

Any miniatures with a platform print at an angle. Otherwise the print will have weird blobbiness on the platform and possible delamination

Which printer do you own? What resin are you using and what settings?

Mika Gruszka I print minis flat to base all the time. The slight distortion at the base is easily removed or simply ignored. When I tilt them it to get better support placement.

Pick something small with details that you can use multiple copies over like zombies or bandits and experiment with that. Test strips are nice but are of limited value after you print them.
There is a learning curve so keep things simple at first. If you're printing for table top it doesn't have to be perfect to be useable, stick with it and your results will get better.

Sander van Deijl anycubic photos S. Anycubic resin white. As far as settings im not sure right now. I will look when I can :)

Biggest thing I can say is that chitubox light supports are worthless, they fail every time for me.

Ray Sears I find that I can't apply supports to most of my miniatures when they are flat on the bed

After washing, before post-curing ??

Sander van Deijl thank you! I need to work on my post processing I always end up with little scuff marks on the minis I have printed, practice makes perfect I guess.

Noah Lockhart fine-tuning the support settings and manually placing them has done a lot for me ?

I found that cutting them off pre-curing damaged the fine bits on the model that I was working on more often than not, but I am printing some very small pieces. It is easier to cure the whole thing and then cut them off when you can get a reasonable grip on the model without hurting it.

this batch I manual supported two models and then did the same two models with chitubox auto supports to see if mine hold up granted I know auto support are kind of poo

After washing, I then rinse in very warm to mildly hot water. It softens the resin even more and the supports come off very easily. Clean up as much as I can before setting it outside to cure.

Just pour more resin in without pausing.

Just make sure the resin is about the same temp as the resin in the vat.

Most likely lead to failure or at least a more visible/prominent layer line at the break. Better to just pour some more resin in while it’s running.

I've always just added more when needed....never had a single issue ?‍♂️

Done both, just adding resin and pausing, had no problem with either

Tauri Icenogle whike the printer is printing?

Uli Sazma yep. Just pour slowly. There’s enough space around the build plate for the resin to get in the vat.

Tauri Icenogle thx a lot

I wait until the model is done curing the present layer, then I pause, add resin wait about 20s and then resume.

When I've done it mid-print, I timed the pour of extra resin during the lifting process so its less likely to affect it during exposure. Only had to add extra once or twice though.

Done it both ways...neither causes a problem though you could get a faint line

Boiling helps a lot b4 curing

Try to print with parts separated

Only need 1 good side, doesn’t matter which ?

try to wet sand with ipa

What part is that?

I know a gouf flight pack when I see it ?

Richard Flanagan a man of culture indeed

PrusaSlicer > Optimize Orientation; PrusaSlicer > Auto Supports at 75% > save STL with supports; Chitubox > Slice; Validator > Fix

(hollow in Chitubox or Meshmixer before hand if you need to).

This has been a game changer for me. If the part is TOO complex, cut it and print in parts.

I don't understand why everyone follows this workflow so religiously. Prusaslicer misses a lot of overhangs which chitubox will usually pick up on the first go.

Shawn Michael Rains I've had exactly the opposite experience, and have yet to have a failure using this work flow.

But like all things 3D printing, your mileage may vary.

Just in water? Or combined with a detergent for cleaning?

Harrie Kools clean it first with your cleaner and then boil it till the supports are soft be careful u can break the hole thing if your not careful

I don't even boil. Just after initial cleaning I run them under hot water and the supports basically melt off. Just be careful with anything that's thin.

But definitely always remove supports B4 curing.

At least with anycubick black and monocure clear I clean with hot water and liberal amount of detergent. Then remove supports and cure. So I was wondering if I could clean in boiling water and get even better results :)