Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

theres only one "n" in Corona

But... its misspelled.

Richard Webb I saw that after it printed. Hahaha

Matthew Lee Lewis I think the print came from China. ?

Covid19 causes brain stutter. :) To brighten up your day, print out Baymax Kim K style - complete with giant silicon butt implants AND cellulite.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4234906

Alwin Chan hahaha

Where is this model from?

thingiverse, Im improving the orginal model

I will have to look for it!

once I finishing wuth it will upload the new version, but after get the owner aprove

RIcardo Castillo I’ll follow this post for the link

original

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2885270

How did you make the box itself? Looks great! Wanting to make one like this!

Jordan Points It was all printed on FDM printers.

Jon Sprinkle nice! You can’t even tell it was! A lot of sanding an painting I take it ha

Jordan Points Oh yeah. Sand, sand, sand, filler, sand, filler primer, and sand some more lol

Jon Sprinkle yeah haha use to that process ?

Will you be releasing the stls? What kind of plastic did you use for the window ?

Leo Bejarano I'm not sure if I'll release stls. Didnt really make it easy to assemble. The glass is just red plexiglass.

That’s sweet!
If you do release STLs I’m down to make one.
If not, good job on this!

Yeah this is dope man!

Make sure your power socket is not faulty ... had the same problem and traced it to a faulty power socket

hmm...im plugged into a power strip since i only have 2 plugs in the room. and 1 is for the sumppump

I think someone else had that issue and discovered it was a faulty internal power part for the Photon. I can't remember the part but you might be able to Search past posts and find it.

i was printing fine though..><

She’s a biggin

Probably a dumb question but i'm very new - how do you print something thats taller than the print area - is it printed in parts - and if its printed in parts do you get the stl from thingaverse and modify it so its in parts somehow using a cad software ?

Matt Holmes hi there :) it is printed in parts yes. Basically the bigger you want it the more parts you've got to print it in. I use Zbrush and sculpt from scratch and so I build in the seam lines into my sculpt. But you could do the same thing with a downloaded STL file in your modelling software of choice. Thanks for the interest ?

Matt Holmes

Rich Harrison thats really interesting thanks for the reply

Mine had silver, too. Though it looked more like a mirror. You’ll have to pull the film off and I imagine keep fingerprints off it.

that's the backlight. these screens were made for smartphones so some come with the backlight. there are instructions on youtube on removing it

my screen came straight from anycubic - and is also silvered on the back as was the original one on the machine. the UV works fine through the silver layer

Awesome. Thanks for the help. I was able to get it off and it's working good. I thought I broke the screen at first. There's a lot of layers you have to take off of for the back light.

If its mirror reflective silver that's the lower polarizer and definitely not something to mess with.

If its a matte silver or grey silver then that's likely a backlight and needs to be removed.

pour out the mixture, rub it down with clean alcohol, let it air dry, then throw it in the dishwasher to be safe. As long as it didn't cure to the glass you should be ok.

Glass? It'll be fine

I'd dump it out, wipe as best you can, and hit it with acetone to dissolve anything left.

Real threads also have a little wiggle room to move, they can't be the exact same shape or they get stuck.

A pic of the threads m+f would help diagnose the problem, show us A pic of the pre sliced item/s

Run a tap and die over it... Or scale threads in program.

Probably the original file need some tweaks for the fittings, depending on the piece you can scale it or even cutting the thread. Try meshmixer, there are a lot of free tutorials in youtube to learn, it's a very useful tool and it's free!

After much sanding it’s now fitting. I think there wasn’t enough wiggle, I have scaled this down as I didn’t need it all that big

Jeff Greenfield what’s a tap and die?

Alex Bainbridge 60-Piece Master Tap and Die Set - Include Both SAE Inch and Metric Sizes, Coarse and Fine Threads | Essential Threading and Rethreading Tool Kit with Complete Accessories and Storage Case https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai......

Normally used in machine shops for cutting threads. This set should be ok for plastic and resins, I wouldn’t use them on steel unless I was really in a pinch. A real machine shop set would be at least 15x that price.

You need overgrowth compensation for mechanical (correct sized) parts. Z-suite and prusa slicer are the two slicer I know of that can do it.

Peter Csaki I use prusa. I’ll give this a google to find out what’s what

That wiggle room is a lot less than you would think.

How much did you compensate when printing? I usually shave about .2 off the thread side

Stefan Giudici I didn’t do anything but print it. Never printed threads so didnt know ? how do you shave off?

Tap and die set

Alex Bainbridge Only if you slice it with it.

Did you also print the thing it screws into?

I make the outside diameter of the part that will have threads .2 smaller before I apply the threads

Peter Csaki ahh, that I don’t do as I use chitu. Maybe it’s time to keep it all in prusa

Stefan Giudici I didn’t design this model it’s off thingiverse. I assume you’re designing with the apply the threads comment?

Steve Stagg yup

Yes and yes