ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 韌體相關話題

專業 給推！

請問如果Atom2.0單純換LV8729會一樣有靜音效果嗎?

請問這是哪塊板子？

其實ATOM直接換成tmc2208也是能聽不到馬達聲音。

Is it actually the bed or no?

It looks like it thinks the printing bed is larger than it actually is

I've been printing on that exact same bed configuration for over a year. All of a sudden the printer seem to lose track of where Z equals 0 is. I have no idea what the problem actually is.

Yea, no idea. I'd replace the motherboard and see what happens.

I've had the same thought. Do you have any suggestion on which MB would be a good replacement? (Good = will run with vanilla Ta At om2 firmware.)

WOW really crazy @_@

If the touch sensor can work well, u may change the printing area by using smaller diameter, like 210 or 200 to c if it can work or not.

or u just change the spring on the screw of touch sensor? maybe the spring too hard for touch sensor?

I remember at one point I was using a different board that wasn't from the Atom dudes and my prints were always just not perfect. It could have been me and my settings, but they were off. I also had to reverse some numbers in the settings to get the other board to work. At some point I bought another new Atom board and started using that. Let me look up the non-atom board

MKS BaseV1.2 3D Printer Controller Board (RAMPS 1.4 + Arduino 2560 remix board)

this was the name of the board. I bought it on Amazon from Keyes themselves but the item is no longer on Atom being sold by them.

and that was recommended by the Atom dudes as a replacement for not using their board

Hmm mm. Not exactly encouraging. I'll do some research and see what I can find.

看到真懷念剛裝好atom那時的情景

Cherub Shiao The sensor is the standard Atom2 micro-switch. It works fine ; the auto level function runs perfectly up to the place shown in the video.

Amazon has that board for $37.77 which is fine. But it has a different shape which means the mounting holes will be different, so attaching it to the Atom2 frame will not be simple.

Also it looks like the stepper drivers are soldered to the board and not plugged into connectors on the board. This means there's no way to replace a driver if one goes bad. I've saved an old/bad Atom2 board just to have some backup stepper drivers if needed.

Remove the spring during bed leveling

Dan Salvador That's an interesting suggestion that would never have occurred to me. I don't see why it would change anything, but I'll give it a try and post results here. Thanks.

I was really surprised, but removing the spring allowed AutoLevel to complete OK.

But now I have a different problem - the printer fails to remember the Z-Offset setting. Each time I set it and then do Adjust Offset the printer behaves like the offfset has not been set. I may be able to compensate for this by setting a Z-Offset value in my slicer.

Birk Binnard well known issue , during the first print after the bed leveling adjust the offset

Well it certainly wasn't well known by me! But thanks for the info.

I haven't been able to make a first print since completing the bed leveling because the printer crashes the hotend into the bed as soon as it starts to print. And I have re-adjusted the offset after this happened and it didn't fix the problem.

I'll go through the whole process again and see what happens.

Since the AutoLevel completed OK (after removing the spring from the Z-Min adjuster screw) I thought I'd try Auto Calibration to see if that helped things at all. But that function crashed the hotend into the print bed on the 4th move. So there is still something wacked with the printer.

I wish I knew what it was.

After a considerable time testing and checking I found 2 problems, one of which I was able to correct:
1. The small metal flap on the Z-Min micro switch was disconnected from the switch and stuck, by magnetic attraction, to the inside of the end effect or frame. The flap is small enough to hide inside the curve of the frame, so it was difficult to spot. But I finally did find it and after partially disassembling the hotend was able to reinstall it on the bottom of the microswitch.
After this I was able to successfully complete an Auto-Level and Z-Offset adjustment - sort of (see #2.)
2. I'm beginning to suspect some sort of internal EEPROM error because the Z-Offset value keeps getting messed up. Here's a typical scenario:
Perform Adjust Offset and set proper offset using the LCD knob
Perform Adjust Offset again to verify it is OK. It isn't.
Check Z-Offset value on LCD. It is far different from what it should be
Change Z-Offset vaue to 0.00
Perform Adjust Offset again and re-adjust to proper value
Check Z-Offset on LCD - this time it matches previous setting
Run test print with Layer Height = 0.200 mm
First layer prints ok, second layer shows 0.300 for part of the layer, then switches to 0.400, third layer shows 0.400 then switches to 0.500
Stop print and check Z-Offset; it shows 1.32 which is far off from previously set value.

All this leads me to believe I do need a new motherboard.

Birk Binnard I had an issue before where my z offset like yours would just do wild stuff. That was the first time I replaced my board. Second time I replaced it was when I had that shirt I showed you way back in messenger.

Well I'm going to try a different slicer just to ensure it really is a printer problem. I don't much like the idea of replacing the motherboard, but I've done it before so at least I know what to expect.

Well there is definitely something wrong with the way the printer handles Z values. I used a different slicer (Craftware) and had similar issues with the printer's Z height when printing.

My layer height is set to 0.200 mm, but after printing the fir st layer, layer 2 showed 0.100 mm for a while, and I could hear the nozzle tip dragging over the traces from layer 1. Before layer 2 was finished the LCD switched it's display to 0.200, but that didn't seem to make any difference with how the printer was printing.

Layer 3, which should have been at height 0.400, showed as 0.300 and had the same dragging effect as layer 2. I stopped the print soon after noticing this.

So similar results from 2 different slices printing the same part makes it pretty clear there is some sort of problem with the printer itself. I thought about a bug in a stepper motor or stepper motor driver, but if that were the case the hotend X-Y position would be off from what it should be, and it's not. Only the Z value seems to be wrong.

This suggests there is either something wrong with the firmware itself, or with the way the motherboard's firmware is processing the input GCode. So it looks like I need to find a new motherboard.

?

M503 dump setting
M501 Try to restore failsafe default
M503 dump setting again.
M500 for save setting

Thanks Clarence - I will try that. But I doubt I'll be able to make sense of the EEPROM data.

OK - I tried that series of commands. They seemed to work OK. But printer still doesn't handle Z-Offset properly. When I do Adjust Offset the printer needs an adjustment of 1.350 mm to position the hotend at the proper height. After I do this the Z-Off set reading says 3.175. Then, if I go back and do Adjust Offset and re-adjust to 1.350 the Z-Offset value says 6.10.

Of course I know that Z-Offset is limited to +/- 2.00, so there is something very strange (at least to me) going on here.

I've got the text of those M commands if you want to take the time to look at it. Can't post them here (of course - FB is such a pain) but let me know if you want to see the output. Meanwhile I've been looking at possible replacement motherboards.

How about check the belt, wheel etc. Might need to consider something loose in mechanical.

Been there/Done that. All is OK.

Even if that were the case it wouldn't explain the Z-Offset values being so strange.

It's the farest edge, consider the cable might cause sensor not work as expect at the specific place. Try to loosen some signal cable length

OK - thanks. I'll check all the stepper motor cable connections. That is something I had not thought about.

Nope - all the cable connections are OK - I checked both ends of each. I also made sure the stepper chips were all firmly set in their sockets - they were.

熱敏電阻掛了

你可能裝回去的時候電線有扯到

所以直接更換最快是吧！

請問有建議哪裡有可以購買資訊？

露天一堆，找熱敏電阻，100k玻璃封装

剛換完，台北今華電子有賣。網路教學http://mesak.tw/hardware/3dp/7168/atom-2-5ex-change-thermistor

感謝大家以更換完成～

2.0.5 b is for Atom ''1''.

Try this one : http://www.atom3dp.com/....../ATOM-208B-20180529......

Great question!

atom看起來已經放生2.0 2.5

無心經營舊機器這塊了~~

我的, 有些風扇控制和斷料偵測自己加的, 沒有改硬體的話記得別照抄: https://github.com/PhilXing/Marlin/tree/Atom-2.5-EX-1.1.9

另外想問這台大台的是有自己的韌體嗎?還是可以共用?這台在atom官網找不到

I aso changed to duet wifi, but I am thinking maybe duet maestro is more suitable for atom.
I can share the experience after some test

Amazing, thanks for sharing! How did you do the enclosure? The acrylic seems embossed, but maybe it's flat.

Looks like massive over extrusion to me too. Easiest way to verify this is to set the slicer's Extrusion Multiplier to a number lower than 1.0. Try 0.5 to start with since it looks like you've got twice as much filament being extruded.

Note that the b oard's firmware has parameters defining the diameter of the extrude gear (and other things) that actually determine how much filament gets extruded by the GCode the firmware processes. So it could be that your extruder gear is larger than the firmware thinks it is.

This was most likely what it was. I updated the post and now have a working printer once again.

Congrats for getting it sorted. Have you tried doing an AutoLevel? A "quirk" of the Atom firmware is that it inverts the Z-Min microswitch setting which is not the case with standard Marlin firmware and I suspect not with other flavors also.

Birk Binnard with RepRap you can invert the switch to trigger when it goes on or goes off. I will be creating a guide later for upgrading your Atom 2.5 EX to using a Duet 2 board. I'll also be sharing the configs I wrote.

?