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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-12-05 18:31:34

Heya guys,

did anyone buy the Armor upgrade for the Atom? Did anyone put acrylic glass on the sides to keep the heat in the printer (for ABS?)

Can anyone tell me which format the acrylic glass needs?

Thanks in advance!

翻譯年糕

Morgan Chang
2016-12-05 21:14:43

It said the acrylic cover open file is coming soon (on Atom official site), but I don't see it yet.

Charlie Ting
2016-12-05 22:38:24

It's so simple, just do it by yourself.

黃大丙
2016-12-06 14:17:46

I asked before, they said you can mail them for the acrylic file.
Mail to info@atom3dp.com.
--- …… 查看更多


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-11-08 19:09:43

Greetings my Atom fellows,

This morning I cleaned my Atom 2.0 printer a little and found something that made me think about the belt system.
Following problem:
On my carriages, the ball bearings, my linear rails, the stepper motor and the upper bearings for the belt, there is black powder. At first I thought it is oil - but how could that make its way up to the bearings on the upper corner parts where the belt goes along?
After making some test prints, I saw that the problem might be in that upper corner piece.

Build up as assembly instruction says:
Aluminium Spacer x2 ; M5 Washer ; Bearing x2 ; M5 Washer

During prints, the belt takes the First washer (next to the spacers) with it. You see how it lifts around the screw. This could give enough power to rub off some belt and scatter black powder everywhere.

I was wondering: Would it be a good idea to change the build up as following:
Aluminium Spacer; M5 Washer; Bearing X2 ; M5 Washer ; Aluminium Spacer

Sadly, the Problem is on every tower. If it was a problem with the build-up geometry, it should only be one or max. two towers, right?

Pulling the belt off the washer helps for about 5 mins. It finds its way back to the washer.

So - hope you understand my problem, hope you can help me in this and as always, thank you very much for your great group and help!

Last but not least:
Is there any release date for the Atom 2.5EX or respectively the upgrade for the Atom 2.0? I'm so excited for that dual hotend! Only found korean information up until now, any english information would be great!

Greetings from Germany,
Joschka

翻譯年糕

梁琄
2016-11-09 10:37:28

Maybe the belts are too tight cause the aluminium spacers wear and tear.

Have you add some lubrication? …… 查看更多

梁琄
2016-11-09 10:48:10

By the way, yes, there is dual-extrutor upgrade for ATOM 2.0 which will be released to oversea soon.

There are some last news on www.facebook.com/atom3D/

黃俊傑
2016-11-09 10:56:34

the belt tension not too tight. Make sure the belt goes straight.
Otherwise thel Aluminium Spacer will lose very quickly.

Joschka Friedl
2016-11-14 21:56:45

Greetings my helpers, Hope you will read my answer.
I added Lubricant to the Steel Balls and the linear rails. The Bearings should not need lubricant, or do they? …… 查看更多

黃俊傑
2016-11-14 22:13:54

1. dont need 2.yep,some user said 45hz will be fine.

Birk Binnard
2016-11-15 01:08:43

This is what one of my top pulleys looks like. I never had any dust like you described.


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-06-16 17:30:48

Hey there guys,

I wanted to ask two things:
Standard Atom 2.0 without any modifications in Extruder, Hotend, drivers or board and without heatbed.
>1. What is your config in Cura? Especially:
- Retraction (Speed & Distance)
- Travel Move
- Print Speed (incl. Top/Bottom, Perim, infill)
- Temperature

I was asking because.. I had many problems with the printer making loud noise while traveling. I was always thinking he is hitting my printed parts... >but< it seems like he has some problems with the speed...
I'm going with following values as listed above:
Retraction: 5mm / 120mm/s
Travel: 150mm/s
Speed: 30 on all, except first layer: 20
Temperature: 200°C

I calibrated the drivers to 0.4V, standard DRV.
And when he travels, he stutters real hard. Last print he even lost steps.
Now..
>2. When I lower my acceleration (it was 3000 => best prints, but hard stutter, 2000 => prints are ok, stutter is still there, 800 => Prints are ok, stuttering is gone) he oozes like hell. And ACC 3000 gives me good results with 5.0mm at 120mm/s retract, but on 800 ACC, I have to go over 6mm at 120mm/s, which seems... unrealistic?

>3. And at last: I'm trying to print the full T-Rex from Thingiverse. Well, those Overhangs are a damn thing. He gets them, but they look a bit fuzzy. Any ideas on that? Fans are going 100% of course.

Thanks in Advance guys!

翻譯年糕

Birk Binnard
2016-06-17 00:33:42

I don't use Cura (I use Craftware instead), but I have found these settings work pretty well:
Draw speed = 55
Travel speed = 55 …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-06-17 02:04:42

Okay. Whats your travel speed and hows about The oozing?With my last Print i experienced heavy warping on overhangs...

Charlie Ting
2016-06-17 03:12:05

Acceleration 500
Print speed 60mm/s
Travel speed 200 …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-06-17 05:49:43

This is what I was wondering generally. Slower retract speed means slower pressure release in The Hotend. Welp i think I just have to test.Thx for your answers, many More are welcome.About overhangs:Do You guys also have The Problem that They pull up and The nozzle crashes in them?


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-03-29 17:16:05

Hi there Guys,

Ive seen many of You with heated beds and was thinking about upgrading to one, too.

Got to question for that topic:
1. As Atom has released the new Firmware with Heated Bed support, is there an official Atom 2.0 Heatbed?
2. The electronics should Work with simple mk3 heatbeds without any additional power supply, right? Just plugging in and going straight ahead?

Thanks in advance

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-03-29 17:27:22

Additional psu required.
(original kit PSU not enought to power the heatbed, usually you would need a 200W or more PSU)
(It's included in official heat bed upgrade kit) …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-03-29 17:32:20

As always, awesome Clarence Lee is here with a super fast answer! Thank you very much!

can you tell me the specifications of the official Atom heatbed? Like, is it "just an MK3" like, or more a plane aluminium plate with silicon mat? And the official price?

Joschka Friedl
2016-03-30 15:47:11

Ah. My french reseller sold me some pics. Looks very nice.
Can anybody tell me any specs about that heatbed? Like heating time etc?


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-02-09 23:15:32

Hey there :)

Finally got my stringing problem. Changing to Craftware solved it mostly...
Buuuuut... Argh.
New Problems arriving:
1. Overhangs. They look scary. They fall down, creating bad edges.
Look at the photos for yourself. Printspeed was 30mm/s, 185°C.. Dunno what to do on this one. As one of my side fans has some interference with the magnetic rods, it makes loud noise when the printer collides with a part or homes after prints. Dunno if it has something to do with that - although it works through the whole print.
2. My ceramic heating ring - oh how I love you. Or more - the temperature.
ATM I have to print 1300 plastic rings. For the first charge, 200 rings. As I have to print fast and details arent necessary, I print at 60mm/s and temperature at 205°C.
First Problem: Heating to 185 - 195° takes less than a minute. Its really fast, thats good. But above 195°, he stutters. Getting back to 190, 185, then rising back up to 198, back to 190, up to 200, then 190, 202, 193, 205, 198, 207, 203, 198, 205 - starting print.
Well, okay. He finally reached it. After 5 Minutes.

But second problem comes within the print... He loses temperature. Down to 189°C - this is too less for 60mm/s, ruining my prints. Hope you guys have a solution.
Thanks in advance!

翻譯年糕

Birk Binnard
2016-02-09 23:47:00

Your photos did not make it! And please show a photo of your side fan that has the interference problem - this definitely should not be happening. I recently installed new side fans on my printer and there is no interference.

Also, I print everything …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 00:03:38

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 00:03:39

Hey Birk Binnard , thanks for your fast answer :)

You cannot see anything on those side fans that looks awkward. Atm hes printing, so i'll send pics of print and fans tomorrow. …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 00:03:53

Please note that on this part I always put some work on clearing it from any unnecessary stuff. :)

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 18:37:55

Okay. Two things again... XD
1st: on that ring print, somehow Craftware put a completely wrong G-Code before "End-GCode" where he told the X axis to move to -95 - which was impossible. Stuttering in Printbed -_- '' Well, deleted that one but can't expla …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 23:12:12

Uh another question for you Birk Binnard as you use Craftware.

Somehow, he adds another Layer on every print, telling the printer to move away from the part and then end the print. Well, when I use the build volume completely on X/Y Axis, he tries mo …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2016-02-10 23:15:43

1. Do you have the latest version of CW? It is 1.13. The previous version (1.12) had bugs like that. Needless to say, my CW does not do things like that.

2. Are you printing from an SD card? I have never tried printing directly from my PC and I know Win10 has some communication problems with USB?Serial ports - or at least is used to. Maybe they are fixed now.

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 23:31:37

Always SD. :) and cw is 1.13..

Birk Binnard
2016-02-11 00:41:03

Post a message on the Craftware forum with a link to your STL file.


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 17:36:03

So hi there guys, me again.

My dad asked me if I could print the Fillenium Malcon from Thingiverse. And he said "Make it big. And high Res!"
Well no prob dad. Thats my job, right?

Put it up to nearly 20cm on X Axis at 0.1mm Layer height. Well, turned out quite nice that it printed >72< hours XD
But anyway. Got two Problems in there, which I can't get away in all my prints. And its pissing me off... a little bit.. :D

http://img4web.com/i/LVYM2.jpg <-- here we have the model as whole. Okay, few strings here and there. Its okay. Thats no problem. Looking goooood.
http://img4web.com/i/VX5PBQ.jpg <-- if you get closer.. meh. Thats not so nice. Damnit.
http://img4web.com/i/5693W1.jpg <-- oh wtf is your problem atom? Why don't you do that one?!
http://img4web.com/i/X9TEU9.jpg <-- okay, you serious? On every new wall buildup, you have problems with edges? Geeez. Why?! Why do you hate me?! T_T
http://img4web.com/i/9V29KZ.jpg <-- and this one can be seen on every overhang that is build up. Either the satellite, on the bottom, the left and right round part where it goes up again... Why Atom?! :(

Printed at 195°C with 6mm retract at 100mm/s. Tried many Retract settings, from 1mm to 8mm, resulting in nearly same results at around 5 - 8mm... Printed at 30mm/s, Infill at 40mm/s, Outer Layer at 20mm/s.

Working with Filament from German Manufacturer "DasFilament" which has a decent quality for its price.

Thanks for any hints... :)

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 17:48:13

Still the same old problem.
Your retract setting is not optimized.
Or maybe the problem is from mechnical / assembly issue. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 17:54:15

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 18:06:36

Hi Clarence,
I can film on later print, yes :) …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 18:36:04

Need to switch the polarity of the rod. find one combination it spins normal.

Did you calibrate the M303 and save the results? …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 18:47:58

Hi Clarence,
Yep, switching of rods solved that one. Although that sound won't go away and there is just one possible combination that the fans spin.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 18:50:02

I'll try PID Calibration with Fans on, thanks for that hint.
As for computing power: Friend of mine changed the A4988er Drivers to RAPS drivers, which made my printer less noisy. Dunno how to change it in that one.
And - of course - about that link.. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 18:54:56

So you already A4988 instead of the origin shipping DRV8825?
If it is A4988, did you set the steps/mm on X,Y,Z,E to the original half?(M503 on pronterface could show your current setting list)

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 18:59:38

Argh Sorry, threw that one around in my head. Changed the original DRV8825 to RAPS128. As I wasn't so much into the electronics (and ain't farther now), I'm not quite sure. Friend of mine built many printers so he had some over and said: "They'll do wonders on your printer"
Will read it out in a few minutes and post it here :)

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 19:02:48

ok, so you are still 1/32 micro stepping.
It's possible to change MS1~MS3 jumper to lower it to 1/16 micro stepping. And also need to change steps/mm to half (from lcd or direct from configuration.h)
RAPS128 might be a good stepper driver, but it's too much for Mega2560. No much benefit to use it's 1/128 stepping here. Only if you are using other powerful controller.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 19:07:24

so from display, atm steps are at 160 while Extruder is at 192 (calibrated) :)
Maybe this tells you something about the 1/16 or 1/32 micro Stepping.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 19:08:11

ya, it's 1/32 micro stepping setting

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 19:11:01

Okay. So setting jumpers to 1st and last position and setting steps at 80/96 will do exactly.. what?

And doesn't that make the printer inaccurate in precision matters?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 19:12:47

for extruder, you could consider to keep it 1/32
For X,Y,Z tower. I don't think that kind of precision would effect much on belt driven system.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 19:22:41

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 19:39:01

Hm okay. What will that computing power bring back? I didn't recognize any lagging in computing processes, although I believe you when you say there is :D Will print 4 cubes now with retraction at 6mm 100mm/s and Travel Speed 250. Infill at 30, tempera …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 21:11:34

Okay.
Tried 150mm/s on 4 cubes with different space between.
http://img4web.com/i/674V45.jpg …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 21:49:03

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 22:12:04

Well okay, what Accel do you recommend? tried 1500 and he was rattling over >everything<. Did autolevel now and trying 1000. Seems to do good so far. After that, I'll do 1500 and post difference

Clarence Lee
2016-01-25 22:34:52

From video, looks fine to me. Maybe check the temperature stability & print speed anyway.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-25 22:52:51

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5IpsL8kSb0
Did this one for testing accel and showing it.
Accel is on 1000 - its okay. Not as good as 500, still has problems sometimes. …… 查看更多

Dan Salvador
2016-01-26 00:49:35

very nice work - so did it make 4th place on the kessel rece ?

Birk Binnard
2016-01-26 01:47:07

Like you I have had stringing problems also. From what I've read it seems this is a standard problem with any Bowden tube printer. I have seen several posts from people saying they would not use a Bowden tube printer because of this. I have not been able to find a really good solution to prevent strings - the best I've been able to do is minimize them. Sometimes a standard hair dryer on high will remove them.

Bryan Grude
2016-01-26 02:15:15

ok so ive had this issue and almost completely eliminated it!! look at your travel speed!! if you do a slow travel speed this will increase, i have my travel speed between movements at 150mm/sec. i print PLA at 212c, 30mm/sec print speed with the stock …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-26 02:21:45

Hi bryan,Thanks for your hint. I always Print at 150mm/s travel speed.
I'd like to know Guys: How much acceleration do you have? And does your printer behave similar?!
Birk: Friend of mine uses P3steel printer with bowden, PETG filament. …… 查看更多

Bryan Grude
2016-01-26 02:29:58

i also built a heated bed for my atom 2.0 so i have a warmer area during printing which has seemed to help

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-01-26 03:54:40

I get this (I think all of us printed one XD) without any strings with this settings in kisslicer

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-01-26 03:55:05

Birk Binnard
2016-01-26 04:06:03

These are interesting suggestions - my travel speed has always been much less, and also my retract speed. I have a small string test file I use for testing - I'll try that with your suggested settings.

Birk Binnard
2016-01-26 04:42:16

Well I am impressed. This is the pic of my string test part I just printed with your settings: travel = 150 mm/sec and retract/prime = 100 mm/sec. . No strings at all - pretty amazing. The only odd thing I noticed during printing was the printer mad …… 查看更多

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-01-26 04:56:19

It depends also in the composition of the PLA,or even the color, just need to try ?

Birk Binnard
2016-01-26 13:40:44

Well I just finished this print and as you can see I have not yet solved the string issue. These should be easy to fix with a hair dryer, but I'm still looking for a real solution. It looks like I need a better string test part.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-26 16:57:17

Sooo hi there again.
Clarence, If I understand correct - I could just remove the RAPS, rejumper everything (MS1 and MS2 Open, MS3 Jumpered), giving him original Firmware >but< half the steps from the original?
Is there any opportunity to extract and sa …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-26 23:10:04

Okay...Last one:Is it possible to export The Firmware from Atom?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-26 23:12:24

Not sure about it. it's binary. You could find if AVR could read out.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-27 16:58:08

Hi Clarence Lee ,
Up to now I only had some more tests with Craftware on the RAPS drivers and Accel set to 900.
Well.. Seems like (dunno why?!) Cura has problems with stringing. MUCH Problems. Have to admit its not gone until now, but its much less. …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-27 20:35:57

Oh and Birk Binnard ,
Got some questions for you as you solved your stringing problem:
1st: I've seen that on some prints, I don't have stringing in the first few layers (like those cubes) while in more upper layers, there'll be some. You experienced the same? …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-27 20:39:51

Oh and maybe Idan Makutski :
As far as I've seen, you made some excellent prints (and you're a reseller? Congratz on that :) )
Some questions to you: On your main Atom 2.0 printer, did you modify any hardware? Like Stepper drivers, board? Any Software like Steps, Firmware? …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2016-01-28 09:29:54

Well, I thought I had the problem fixed. But in reality things got worse. Oh dear.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-28 10:28:20

Oh and btw This is what i mean... Those calibration objects work fine and after that... Everything is ruined T_TExperienced nearly The Same Thing, stringing was reduced to such fine strings that a hair dryer could remove them...and The Print was full of thick strings :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-28 16:52:36

Hi birk,I experiment with accel a lot, 500 is much More silent but Short far travels will be too slow and can result in strings.Saving anything: Just do "store memory" :)


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 16:43:29

Hey Guys,

I'm still having one problem with my printer and cura...
Had the problem that the printer was scratching my prints hard when he was traveling. The solution for that was to set the acceleration to 500 - he still scratches them, but not as loud as before. You can still see marks on top layers when he starts filling in the middle, finishes it to the right and then travels back to the middle and starts filling to the left.
Problem is: With smaller parts, he still tears them off the printbed when printing them.
I use Cura, which is my favorite printing program so far...
I don't know if this is something in the Gcode or if this depends on Z-Offset, trying to play with Z-Offset gave me no results, only bad first layers.
I'm thankful for every advice :)

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 16:46:45

not z-offset, it's always z-lift from my opinion...
But how cura use z-lift, it's need to dig in gcode …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:00:40

http://www.file-upload.net/....../apple_cable_savers......
Apple Cable Savers from Thingiverse.
On the bigger one, one side started ripping off, still sticking with a little part. and when he starts printing that spring.. Everything is lost :S

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:08:13

From Gcode
It did Z hop 0.1mm
but since layer 481 …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:14:33

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:17:06

I think it's fixed since Version: 15.04.03
but I don't recommend to use this since 15.04.xx is not stable enough for not ultimaker from my experience.
But maybe I would try the 15.04.4, and see if I can get a stable version for ATOM setting.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:39:21

My Version is 15.04.3
The rip-Off took place on layer ~120. well, more around that one.
I was wondering, should I choose a higher Z-Hop Value?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:41:11

the butg report seens you might need to turn off something about combine?

for the layer 120 rip off, it might not really related to the Z hop? (but still worth to try higher) …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:52:05

well, Fans are working on 100%, printing at 195°. How should I prevent that warping? Printing Brim? Or rather lower temperature?

About that combine thing: In Expert settings, lower right. There are two options, Combine everything (Type A) and (Type B), I got Type A selected.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:57:35

print it slower, maybe 20mm/s max, lower traveling speed to 80 mm/s

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 18:10:09

Lowering travel speed gives much more ooze & Strings at 7mm / 100mm/s
Print Speed is possible :)

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 01:56:45

Okay will update that tomorrow.What about that combine Thing with type A?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 08:12:41

Try to turn it off

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 18:24:12

Hey Clarence,
Turned the Combine thing off with no real result. Adjusted Z-Hop Value to 0.25mm, still got a ripped off part on a figure...
Within the rest of the week I try other slicers, as I know that Kisslicer did no ripping and scratching at all but gave me baaad print results in case of stringing etc. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 19:15:32

hmm from bug tracker it says it's fixed.
anyway, I would try to slice & check gcode anyway.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 19:44:49

Joschka Friedl should be this, try off or No skin

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 19:46:34

Will try that one. Working on craftware now and will test that on cura too

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 20:07:19

Looking good so far.
But I recognized that he does a "blob" sound like filament being too hot on every layer. And it seems like on those places, tiny little holes are created because of that. Lowered temperature down to 180° now. seems like its okay now... :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 18:41:11

Hi Clarence Lee ,
After turning Type A off, Selecting No Skin and adjusting Z-Hop to 2.5mm, he now prints without ripping and muuuuch less scratching. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-15 18:42:20

blobbing sound should be filament quality issue.
Type A might not related to the scratching issue.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 21:35:46

The scratching issue was related to The ripping off issue... That one is clear. Parts with Little bed-connection ripped off even with large brim. The effector ripped it out of The brim.Will tell The seller about that blobbing Problem. Here is a picture. Still a large stringing Problem :D

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 23:11:13

Yep. Gonna test some retraction objects This weekend. Then, finally... I should have everything under Control


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 22:28:38

Hey guys,

I wanted to connect some LEDs to my Atom printer. But now that I got everything together, I was wondering... where to connect them to the board? I have 12V LEDs and I want to connect four of them.
I planned to cable them all up with some clamps, then bringing one cable to a switch, from there to power supply - the other cable goes directly to power supply. But as Atom has no direct "power supply" where you can directly pull your power from - where to get it? ^^"

Thanks in advance! :)

翻譯年糕

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 23:39:35

So of I See correct - next to redet button are 12v Pins - no other option, right?But there are two fans there and - on top - laser fan?Other options? :/

Clarence Lee
2016-01-11 23:46:39

get power directly from power supply

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 23:59:06

So like, just put The cable directly to The AC/IN plug where The cables for power supply go in?Or should I put them on The right ones, which are empty?

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 23:59:57

So in This picture, left four screws. Two left ones (power sup) or two right, empty ones?

Harry Cayne
2016-01-12 19:54:28

it would be nice to have them on only while printing and on the printhead, so I am planning to combine it with the power of the heater element , they don't draw to much power anyways, or do they ?

Harry Cayne
2016-01-12 19:58:17

or you can just pull an other wire from the next heater element that way you can turn on while printing, but not sure what do you have to change in the soft , but must be easy

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-12 20:08:35

I got a switch for mine, this is why I want direct power. With this, I can just click the switch and turn it on whenever I need it.
Had a LED on my Heatbed on another Printer and nearly went crazy with that thing always flickering around. When you conn …… 查看更多

Harry Cayne
2016-01-12 21:01:15

right but if you connect to the heatbed terminals without the thermistor it is going to light all the time while the printing lasts then it turns off , but it has to be set in the program to not to wait for the heatbed signal for the printing

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-12 21:33:55

Clarence: So just put it to The input cables? Don't wanna get anything burned ?


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 17:39:42

Happy new year my Atom friends.

As some of you might know, I got some problems with my hotend last time. It was clogged with PTFE Tube.
After disassembling everything and reassembling it, I got - who would've guessed - new problems.
But first things first.

1. About that PTFE Tube - My old one was "quite short" and was >stuck< in the lower part of the hotend. Maybe 0.5cm above the heating chamber above the nozzle, where the PLA is "collected".
When I tried to measure the length for a new one, I've seen that the newer one is "not as thick" as the old, so it won't get stuck. It just slides right up through to the nozzle. Can this be a Problem?

2. I then printed an iPhone holder for my girlfriend. Had one problem that comes in question 4 (front right corner), but one more that has more gravity to it - A wobble in every layer. Systematically. I cannot imagine how this happens as I didn't change anything while reassembling. Only thing I can imagine is that PTFE Tube inside that hotend nozzle, but I cannot explain logically >why< it is like this. Here are the links to the pictures of the part:
http://img4web.com/i/7FGENQ.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/823QHC.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/JKZD84.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/WEGDGV.jpg
Any ideas how I can get rid of that?

3. Tried to print some parts for my other printer. Should've been no problem. As i calibrated my extruder (Repetier 100mm equals ~102mm, setting esteps for Extruder to 192,XX resulted in Repetier 100mm => Extruder 100mm) my parts got quite nice, with a measurement of approx. +/- 0.05mm.
BUT! Holes came out >too thick<. As i tried to put a smooth rod inside of one part, the hole was 0.3mm too small on right and left (X/Y Axis), Top and downside (which was on Z_Axis) had the 8mm which it should've had.. Had to drill it and had some work of getting that part in. Was wondering where this cames from as other measurement is quite right.

4. and last one
When I print parts, I usually print them in the middle of the glass bed. No Prob so far.
As i printed the parts for my other printer, I organized them around the bed, using as much space and less time as possible. Good Idea, bad thing for my printer. As i usually do Auto Level and Z-Offset measurement once a week and after every disassemble, I thought everything would be alright.
First layer in the middle of the print bed => Nearly excellent
First Layer on the left side => Gross, got a little bit destroyed. Z-Offset was too low on this one.
First layer on the right side => Well.. It stuck. But the Z-Offset was too high on this one.
Same goes for back side => Too low; and Front side => Too high.
I was wondering why this happens as G29 should compensate for that?
http://img4web.com/i/PVDVW9.jpg <-- here you see left part being in the middle of the table (good) and right part on the front side, as more it goes to the front, the lower the z-offset gets.
http://img4web.com/i/QV2UUZ.jpg <-- here is the front part, being on the right side. You can see that the printer didn't really "push" the filament on the bed and instead just laid it down.
http://img4web.com/i/RW8QFA.jpg <-- in this one, on the front part, you can see that the second layer was put on it quite nicely, although I have typical travel marks on the part. But anyway the first layer is ruined, resulting in a bad part...

Okay. Sorry guys that I wrote soooo much. But I tried collecting some things and put them together here.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide, I count on you :)
Greetings and have a nice day,
Joschka

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 17:59:04

2. how many loops?
3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get......
4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:13:25

Hi Clarence :)
Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:15:24

4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:20:11

4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:22:00

Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help...
Do more check on G29 each movements

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:25:01

cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options?
Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-05 07:28:40

got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk
Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-09 00:00:14

Is 2. STL available or even your gcode..
I could verify how I prints

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 22:31:12

Hi Clarence,
After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2015-12-24 00:35:14

Soooo... Me again. As Always..

Following Problem: I finally decided to burn my nozzle which was a pretty good idea so far. Some of the PTFE Tube in the Nozzle got heated up and melted into the chamber. This always clogged the hotend and I never got everything out.
But now I'm sitting here, with the spare tube in my hand, putting that in the clean hotend nozzle.. and it slides right in. And out. And in. Up to the nozzle tip. Sooooo... How do I fix it to any point?! :o Or does it need to reach the nozzle tip? o.o

翻譯年糕

Birk Binnard
2015-12-24 01:06:51

I think all you have to do is slide the tube in as far as it will go and then reassemble the nozzle. As long as you have the inner chamber cleaned out you should be OK. The metal piece that screws into the top of the nozzle has a small ridge on the in …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-24 01:10:05

Yeah but I can slide it in without any resistance. Holding my finger on the edge where it slides in and then pulling it out lets me see, that the tip of the tube is near the nozzle. This is where it stops. My old tube (which melted) cannot be pushed in as far as the new one. This is why I was wondering, because when I push it in to the tip, won't it melt again on my next print?!

Birk Binnard
2015-12-24 02:48:06

I see what you mean. That is a good question. In my case I pushed the tube in as far as it will go and so far I have no indication that it has melted.

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the PTFE material can tolerate temperatures up to 400C, so if that is true there should be no problem. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to test it. …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-24 05:33:18

Well, i put it in now and it does print...
Now my steel balls and the rods start making noises.. won't those problems ever end?
What kind of lubricants do you guys use?

Birk Binnard
2015-12-24 06:16:15

I use white lithium grease. It comes in large tubes and seems to work OK. I put a small amount on the balls with a Q-tip and spread it around as evenly as I can.

I think that if you can spin the rods while they are all connected and not feel and roughness or stickiness the joints should be OK. …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-24 06:37:57

Does it reach up to the hotend? Its working so far. Only Problem I have... He suddenly stops printing a layer and then does it again. Or he prints it very thin which results in not stable parts. You can nearly tear them apart by hand... Any Ideas on this one?

Birk Binnard
2015-12-24 07:16:59

I am having the exact same problem as you and the best I can determine is that the cause is either a clogged hot end or a problem with the extruder. I am still working on a specific diagnosis.

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-24 08:12:53

Funny fact: Printing those parts in Single prints results in no problems.

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-24 08:42:35

Okay and here is - of course - another one I really don't get.
I print 5 parts, everything fine. I start the sixth - and suddenly it stops printing in the front. The distance between the nozzle and the printing bed is too far, so it can't lay down the filament. Another Auto-Leveling didn't bring any success.Any Ideas on this one?


 

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