ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

https://www.facebook.com/atom3D/videos/1819253278305672/

It said the acrylic cover open file is coming soon (on Atom official site), but I don't see it yet.

It's so simple, just do it by yourself.

I asked before, they said you can mail them for the acrylic file.
Mail to info@atom3dp.com.
--- …… 查看更多

Maybe the belts are too tight cause the aluminium spacers wear and tear.

Have you add some lubrication?
If not, you could check this link "Adding Lubrication"
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/printer-inspection-1/

By the way, yes, there is dual-extrutor upgrade for ATOM 2.0 which will be released to oversea soon.

There are some last news on www.facebook.com/atom3D/

the belt tension not too tight. Make sure the belt goes straight.
Otherwise thel Aluminium Spacer will lose very quickly.

Greetings my helpers, Hope you will read my answer.
I added Lubricant to the Steel Balls and the linear rails. The Bearings should not need lubricant, or do they?

The Belt is going straight. If I change its position, its correcting itself by its tension on the bearings / the motor pulleys. About the tension: It sounds like a bass guitar string on every side. Measured it with a Hz Detector (Correct word? Hope you know what I mean) when I built the printer.

1. dont need 2.yep,some user said 45hz will be fine.

This is what one of my top pulleys looks like. I never had any dust like you described.

I don't use Cura (I use Craftware instead), but I have found these settings work pretty well:
Draw speed = 55
Travel speed = 55 …… 查看更多

Okay. Whats your travel speed and hows about The oozing?With my last Print i experienced heavy warping on overhangs...

Acceleration 500
Print speed 60mm/s
Travel speed 200 …… 查看更多

This is what I was wondering generally. Slower retract speed means slower pressure release in The Hotend. Welp i think I just have to test.Thx for your answers, many More are welcome.About overhangs:Do You guys also have The Problem that They pull up and The nozzle crashes in them?

Additional psu required.
(original kit PSU not enought to power the heatbed, usually you would need a 200W or more PSU)
(It's included in official heat bed upgrade kit) …… 查看更多

As always, awesome Clarence Lee is here with a super fast answer! Thank you very much!

can you tell me the specifications of the official Atom heatbed? Like, is it "just an MK3" like, or more a plane aluminium plate with silicon mat? And the official price?

Ah. My french reseller sold me some pics. Looks very nice.
Can anybody tell me any specs about that heatbed? Like heating time etc?

Your photos did not make it! And please show a photo of your side fan that has the interference problem - this definitely should not be happening. I recently installed new side fans on my printer and there is no interference.

Also, I print everything @ 190 C. I found that higher temps results in more stringing - probably because the plastic is more viscous. I presume you are using PLA, yes?

As far as the temperature stuttering goes, what you report is not that much different from what I experience. My printer does not take 5 minutes to settle down however - it does it in about a minute or so. So it is possible your thermistor is bad - or going bad. From what I've read thermistors have a finite life and need to be changed out after a while. I am not exactly sure what "a while" really means, but I bought 10 of them since they are very inexpensive.

Hey Birk Binnard , thanks for your fast answer :)

You cannot see anything on those side fans that looks awkward. Atm hes printing, so i'll send pics of print and fans tomorrow.

Of what you asked: Yes, its PLA :)

About temperature: Yeah, I always print at 185-195°C (depending on slicer, Cura was 195, Craftware only needs 185°C) with 30mm/s. Thats enough and gives nice prints.
Those rings need to be done fast. And as I have contact with some "experts", they explained me: "If you print faster, the Filament goes through the hotend faster, too. It has less time to heat up and melt. To solve this, heat the hotend up more. Try 10° steps." - That sounds logic. And this can be seen in my actual print - as the filament is pushed through hotend at 60mm/s and he just pushes little strings when the temperature is at 190°C or below, and above 200°C, everything looks fine.
A Thermistor Problem would be explainable if the printer is showing completely wrong temperatures. To me it seems like theres another problem with the ceramic heater as the old one (which I sadly broke somehow) had >no< problems heating up to 240°C in less than five minutes and holding that temperature steady. But - I'm no genius and will always be open to any hints :) How to check that thermistor anyway?

And of course, this time the photos for problem nr 1

Please note that on this part I always put some work on clearing it from any unnecessary stuff. :)

This is a view looking inside the part from bottom to top, yes? It looks to me like the top area of the part is pretty much horizontal, and it is very difficult to print horizontal areas without support. In my case I changed my designs to be more pointy at the top, but I understand you may not have this freedom.

Hmmmm...to me this looks like an extrusion-related problem, What sequence are you using for Drawing Order? For a part like you show I'd suggest fills - loops - perimeters. That way you are more likely to have more material for the outer loops to grab on to. The widely spaced loops you show look like there was just not enough material behind them to allow a smooth exterior surface.

Good logic about how print speed relates to extruder temperature. I have always printed at 55 mm/sec and don't change that - just so I have one less variable to deal with. But I have no time pressures, so I understand why you may want to print faster s ometimes.

Upping speed could affect all sorts of things - not only the temperature. What about acceleration, prime/retract speed, 1st layer speed, etc.

I would not say that a failing thermistor manifests itself only by showing incorrect temperatures. From what I've read they can do all sorts of odd things - basically non-repeatable and seemingly random things. Since they are inexpensive and easy to replace (provided yours doesn't get stuck and have to be drilled out like mine was) you might want to change it out just to be safe.

The heater disk is another issue however. Apparently these disks are extremely difficult to obtain. Clarence Lee was was able to find a place in Japan that has them, and he was kind enough to forward 2 of them to me. So I know they can be found - but I have no idea how to do that.

Well yeah, thats it. Didn't think of that one earlier... :/ But it makes sense! Thanks, will try it on a test print!

Yep it is. Maybe its the same problem as the wing - as those circulars go closer and closer together, it shouldn't have any problems... :) Well. Yeah. Shouldn't. But it does ^^"

Okay. Two things again... XD
1st: on that ring print, somehow Craftware put a completely wrong G-Code before "End-GCode" where he told the X axis to move to -95 - which was impossible. Stuttering in Printbed -_- '' Well, deleted that one but can't expla in why he did that.
2nd: Made a vid - and thanks for reminding me of looking at that side fans!
Sooo - seen from front, the right one makes noise - and turns >slower< than the other one.
Hope anything can be seen in the vid. Or heard. Its pretty bad quality, dunno why...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yti5_SGxk3I
Thanks in advance!!!

Uh another question for you Birk Binnard as you use Craftware.

Somehow, he adds another Layer on every print, telling the printer to move away from the part and then end the print. Well, when I use the build volume completely on X/Y Axis, he tries mo ving outside of print volume, resulting in the carriage going all down and then stuttering. Dunno why and when this happend.
Gcodes is following:
G0 X-100.983 Y6.0000 F6000
And on my last print he even retracted more than 100mm of Filament like being unloading it.

Any ideas? :)

1. Do you have the latest version of CW? It is 1.13. The previous version (1.12) had bugs like that. Needless to say, my CW does not do things like that.

2. Are you printing from an SD card? I have never tried printing directly from my PC and I know Win10 has some communication problems with USB?Serial ports - or at least is used to. Maybe they are fixed now.

Always SD. :) and cw is 1.13..

Post a message on the Craftware forum with a link to your STL file.

not z-offset, it's always z-lift from my opinion...
But how cura use z-lift, it's need to dig in gcode …… 查看更多

http://www.file-upload.net/....../apple_cable_savers......
Apple Cable Savers from Thingiverse.
On the bigger one, one side started ripping off, still sticking with a little part. and when he starts printing that spring.. Everything is lost :S

From Gcode
It did Z hop 0.1mm
but since layer 481 …… 查看更多

What's your cura version?
https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/126

I think it's fixed since Version: 15.04.03
but I don't recommend to use this since 15.04.xx is not stable enough for not ultimaker from my experience.
But maybe I would try the 15.04.4, and see if I can get a stable version for ATOM setting.

My Version is 15.04.3
The rip-Off took place on layer ~120. well, more around that one.
I was wondering, should I choose a higher Z-Hop Value?

the butg report seens you might need to turn off something about combine?

for the layer 120 rip off, it might not really related to the Z hop? (but still worth to try higher) …… 查看更多

well, Fans are working on 100%, printing at 195°. How should I prevent that warping? Printing Brim? Or rather lower temperature?

About that combine thing: In Expert settings, lower right. There are two options, Combine everything (Type A) and (Type B), I got Type A selected.

print it slower, maybe 20mm/s max, lower traveling speed to 80 mm/s

Lowering travel speed gives much more ooze & Strings at 7mm / 100mm/s
Print Speed is possible :)

Okay will update that tomorrow.What about that combine Thing with type A?

Try to turn it off

Hey Clarence,
Turned the Combine thing off with no real result. Adjusted Z-Hop Value to 0.25mm, still got a ripped off part on a figure...
Within the rest of the week I try other slicers, as I know that Kisslicer did no ripping and scratching at all but gave me baaad print results in case of stringing etc. …… 查看更多

hmm from bug tracker it says it's fixed.
anyway, I would try to slice & check gcode anyway.

Joschka Friedl should be this, try off or No skin

Will try that one. Working on craftware now and will test that on cura too

Looking good so far.
But I recognized that he does a "blob" sound like filament being too hot on every layer. And it seems like on those places, tiny little holes are created because of that. Lowered temperature down to 180° now. seems like its okay now... :/

Hi Clarence Lee ,
After turning Type A off, Selecting No Skin and adjusting Z-Hop to 2.5mm, he now prints without ripping and muuuuch less scratching. …… 查看更多

blobbing sound should be filament quality issue.
Type A might not related to the scratching issue.

The scratching issue was related to The ripping off issue... That one is clear. Parts with Little bed-connection ripped off even with large brim. The effector ripped it out of The brim.Will tell The seller about that blobbing Problem. Here is a picture. Still a large stringing Problem :D

Yep. Gonna test some retraction objects This weekend. Then, finally... I should have everything under Control

http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/0d/MKS_GEN-PIN.PNG

So of I See correct - next to redet button are 12v Pins - no other option, right?But there are two fans there and - on top - laser fan?Other options? :/

get power directly from power supply

So like, just put The cable directly to The AC/IN plug where The cables for power supply go in?Or should I put them on The right ones, which are empty?

So in This picture, left four screws. Two left ones (power sup) or two right, empty ones?

it would be nice to have them on only while printing and on the printhead, so I am planning to combine it with the power of the heater element , they don't draw to much power anyways, or do they ?

or you can just pull an other wire from the next heater element that way you can turn on while printing, but not sure what do you have to change in the soft , but must be easy

I got a switch for mine, this is why I want direct power. With this, I can just click the switch and turn it on whenever I need it.
Had a LED on my Heatbed on another Printer and nearly went crazy with that thing always flickering around. When you conn ect it to the Hotend or Heatbed, you'll get that effect too, as the printer powers the Hotend/Heatbed until it reached the temperature, and afterwards just powers it when it loses temperature. You get an on/off/on/off flickering..

right but if you connect to the heatbed terminals without the thermistor it is going to light all the time while the printing lasts then it turns off , but it has to be set in the program to not to wait for the heatbed signal for the printing

The left side is input

Clarence: So just put it to The input cables? Don't wanna get anything burned ?

just Parallel Circuits, if you know what you are doing.

2. how many loops?
3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get......
4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29

Hi Clarence :)
Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多

4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.

4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多

Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help...
Do more check on G29 each movements

cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options?
Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/

got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk
Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.

Is 2. STL available or even your gcode..
I could verify how I prints

Hi Clarence,
After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多

I think all you have to do is slide the tube in as far as it will go and then reassemble the nozzle. As long as you have the inner chamber cleaned out you should be OK. The metal piece that screws into the top of the nozzle has a small ridge on the in side top that holds the tube in place.

I vaguely remember someone saying the tube inside the nozzle should be about 34 mm long - but it might be 43 mm.

Edit: actually it is 23mm long

Yeah but I can slide it in without any resistance. Holding my finger on the edge where it slides in and then pulling it out lets me see, that the tip of the tube is near the nozzle. This is where it stops. My old tube (which melted) cannot be pushed in as far as the new one. This is why I was wondering, because when I push it in to the tip, won't it melt again on my next print?!

I see what you mean. That is a good question. In my case I pushed the tube in as far as it will go and so far I have no indication that it has melted.

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the PTFE material can tolerate temperatures up to 400C, so if that is true there should be no problem. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to test it.

Good luck!!

Well, i put it in now and it does print...
Now my steel balls and the rods start making noises.. won't those problems ever end?
What kind of lubricants do you guys use?

I use white lithium grease. It comes in large tubes and seems to work OK. I put a small amount on the balls with a Q-tip and spread it around as evenly as I can.

I think that if you can spin the rods while they are all connected and not feel and roughness or stickiness the joints should be OK.

PS: I just measured the length of the PTFE tube inside my hot end and it is 23mm long.

Does it reach up to the hotend? Its working so far. Only Problem I have... He suddenly stops printing a layer and then does it again. Or he prints it very thin which results in not stable parts. You can nearly tear them apart by hand... Any Ideas on this one?

I am having the exact same problem as you and the best I can determine is that the cause is either a clogged hot end or a problem with the extruder. I am still working on a specific diagnosis.

Funny fact: Printing those parts in Single prints results in no problems.

Okay and here is - of course - another one I really don't get.
I print 5 parts, everything fine. I start the sixth - and suddenly it stops printing in the front. The distance between the nozzle and the printing bed is too far, so it can't lay down the filament. Another Auto-Leveling didn't bring any success.Any Ideas on this one?

sound like retract problem, since multiple prints required retract when moving between objects.
try retract less length

Any photo to identify area on bed?

8mm at 100mm/s... at about 10mm he retracts it so far that he sometimes cannot deliver any more and just move without extruding.

As my gf sleeps right now, can't start the printer now. Got the ruined part (which is folded in the midde as you see on the line) out of the trash and put it on the spot where it was. On the tip in the front you can see that it got ruined because there was no adhesion to the bed. Can make a video tomorrow

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15087

Printing right now, this time it doesnt crash because of it. but you can clearly see how the skirt wasn't laid down the right way and the front of the part also. Now it looks warped although it never had contact to the printing bed...

Pic nr 2

Scratching is bad of course. Can you tell what part of the printhead is doing the scratching? For me it was sometimes the Z-stop adjusting screw and sometimes one end of the bottom cover plate.

I switched back to 2.02 after trying both 2.03 and 2.04 because both of those failed to remember the Z-offset values and I did not wish to include a G29 command in each part I printed.

It's The nozzle scratching The parts. Everything else is above The nozzle.My printer remembers The z-offset and The Auto leveling as far as ive Seen.

Well I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe my motherboard is missing a mod the newer ones have that enables them to remember Z-offsets better - I really have no idea. But with 2.02 a Z-offset of 0.35 seems to work pretty well for me. And I print on blue tape also. It might be that a value of 0.40 would be a bit better - I'll try that sometimes soon.

I printed without blue tape on 0.36 with Same result. Do You use z-hop?

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/
Joschka Friedl it's depends on" E. Distance between end stop and screw" to the z-offset.
And actually to check z offset , you should manual move to Z0 to check.

But for during printing scratch printed layer (not print bed), it's much related to the z-lift option in slicer.

By z-hop I presume you mean z-lift. No, I don't use that although I have tried it a few times on parts with multiple islands.

Nope. It's not hardware dependent.!
z-offset is a pure software/firmware implement.
It's only related to the usage.

first layer hit bed is not related to the z-hop/z-lift.
it's z-offset issue.
after change between different fw.
If G-29 speed changed, the z-offset changed.
Check by slowly move to Z0 to check the new z-offset value.
Not fixed on previous value.

Okay... The instructions say something around 0.15mm z lift which solves nothing. What are common values for This one Clarence?

My z-offset is nearly perfect as he pushes The filament right on The Plate with no mistakes. But, that scratching Problem (which teared off some of my prints) is just... Its killing my nerves and The sleep of my girlfriend ?

no common value, it depends on your print condition.
Is it only happened on infill parts?
try to print infill slowly, and might need side fan cooling.
Sometimes you are scratching the warping.

anyways, upload your gcode or slicer setting snap might be much help to understand your whole setting for a possible suggest.
BTW, also a video record focus on printing area to check when it's scratching would help

Scratching mostly Comes up on bottom or top full layers. On traveling ways you heat The scratch and sometimes he eben hops over The part, giving huge vibrations but he loses no steps...But it also appears on upper layers when hes, it think its called c ombing, moving over The part to get to another section. You know, when he starts infill in The middle, goes to The right and then moves back to fill The left side. Using cura atm and will Print something tomorrow. Will record that and put it on yt.Uploading cura config too.As i only Print PLA i got my side fans on most of The time.On The actual parts there is no warping.

Oh and Thanks for always helping us clarence, youre awesome :)

It worth to video record to check if it's scratching only on traveling or whole solid infill printing. If it is, increase more z-hop like 0.2 or 0.3mm (depends on your layer height.) to see if it helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjD9hfmo2rA
This is the YT Vid nr 1
Got another where he seems to loses a step in the same print. Upload that later.
http://img4web.com/i/7HSZT7.jpg - those are the parts
http://img4web.com/i/HEGCAT.jpg - Dunno why he didn't print in the middle of those. Testing it again at the moment. But you clearly see the travel ways on the surface
http://img4web.com/i/3TE14.jpg - he totally messed this one up - sadly
http://img4web.com/i/Y56UCJ.jpg - cannot use that one eiter :(
http://img4web.com/i/USHKHT.jpg - again..
http://img4web.com/i/GTHVKJ.jpg - this one was very sad, 4 hours of printing and at the end he didnt print those few layers. Its sturdy and will work, but looks... bad :/

Thanks in advance for your help :)

What's your current z-hop? what's your layer height ?
The bubble between layers is not by this z-hop ,
It's much related to extrution not stable. Check your extruder wheel , hotend, ptfe pipe , filament at least one of it's might got problem.

Could you snapshot your cura settings? or provide the gcode?

BTW, from LCD you can set acceleration to 3000 or less for a try.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir......

This is the packed (winrar) file for the Gcode of the File and my Cura Setup :)

Yeah. The bubble thing came from a clogged hotend - again - i suppose. Cleaned everything this morning. Awaiting my THF Solution for quick and complete cleans.. ~~
Hope the files help you :)
And I reduced Accel to 3000. Lets see what this brings up :)

http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/

Clarence Lee Yep, looked that one through. Only thing which I can imagine is the tube which comes out of the lower hotend (the one that is visibly clear, that tube thing, which is bendable. Dunno if its called teflon tube?) was a little bent on the las t clean. Just cut a minimal slice of it off. Now its completely straight again.
Extruder Drive gear is clean, cleaned the nozzle with toothpicks and guitar string as I don't have a 0.3mm drill bit at hand... Yeah... Actual print looks okay, just a little bit of stringing.

suggest
1. z-hop try 0.15 ~ 0.25
2. infill speed decrease to 30 or 25
3. retract length decrease to 5~8, 5 could be a start
4. cool_min_time 7

Okay, will try this on the next part. Cool Min Time won't matter as he needs more than a minute for every layer on all those parts, I was told that the infill speed could be even on 100 (which I thought was too fast) so I decided going to 60, which res ulted in much faster prints :D

Retract is a thing in my case... I tried 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10mm... 10mm resulted in the extruder "ripping" the Filament. Going away from the printer and coming back sometimes made me mad because he moved the head but didn't extrude :(
But on 5 I got huge strings, on 7-8 was the best result. Tried 10mm for this one again - with good results. Will take a picture of the print on the bed when its finished this time.

Z-Hop is raised. Only thing I was wondering: He has that "min Travel" or "min Extrude" which prevents short upcoming Retracts. Like when you got to wholes next to each other he just moves over it without retraction - and of course, makes no Z-Hop. Sooo... Should I decrease those "min Travel" and "Min Extrude" values?

Not suggest to infill that fast, at least not now.
keeps it under 40 or 30mm/s for a stable print result first.
the layer bubble also caused by too much retract.. so....

min travel it;s a trigger about retract or not. it depends on your model.

Okay. Print just finished. This time no bubbles, no rip offs in the parts itself. That acceleration thing did something, but the "scratching" is not gone.
Here are two pictures. Only this that disturbs me here is the stringing. Strange thing is: on the lower layers, (its around 51 for whole print) so up to 20~, there is absolutely NO stringing, but above those until the end - Stringing...
Any explanation for this? :S
http://img4web.com/i/7BHW9X.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/TZZFKQ.jpg

tune the
retraction_min_travel = 4.5 to lower to trigger it..
or disable side fan or decrease print temperature.
Decrease travel speed might also help like 100

What is object_sink = 0.5 ? I saw it's usually 0

disabling side fan results in the hotend nozzle just digging in a liquid pile of PLA...
Testing that retraction min travel on next print. Thanks for your help clarence, will print everything this evening and report here :)

hmm your hotend too hot? try lower print temperature ;p

195 degree. Always thought This would be too low ?

I have been printing PLA @ 190 degrees for quite a while with no real problems. I read one posting that suggested higher temps would result in more stringing.

I am Back! haha.
Made two more prints, first one went pretty good with the stringing on 190°, thanks for that hint Birk Binnard :) Nearly zero on all layers.
Also recalibrated my Extruder, which was more than 2mm overextruding. Dunno why.
Made a vid of a part I test at the moment because some M3 Screws have to fit.
On the first vid, you can hear him scratching the whole part and it seemed like he lost a step there. Made an ugly noise after that, after retraction it disappeared.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-u5gOiDiC9g

Second vid was made a layer earlier, nothing bad so far until the last 8 seconds where he scratches the WHOLE part along when traveling from one edge to the other.
https://youtu.be/nbHAjS4LOwQ

Things I've Changed:
- Temp from 195 to 190°
- Z-Hop from 0.1 to 0.3mm (Just to make sure, but it looks like he just "hops" on the beginning of the movement and then goes back down to his layer height?)
- Min Travel from 4.5mm to 1mm

yep. Thats it so far. Of course I changed infill speed, but there was no infill there in the vid, its just bottom layers..

It looks to me like your travel speed is too high/fast; try slowing it down 25% or so. Also - it's difficult to tell for sure but the sounds I heard in your videos were very similar to the ones my printer made when one of the ends of the bottom cover h it protrusions or bumps on the part when the printhead moved over the part. To get around this I took the bottom cover off.

Also - you said you recalibrated your extruder. What does this really mean and how did you do it? I am still having some extruder problems of my own - last print aborted because the hot end simply stopped extruding.

https://www.matterhackers.com/....../how-to-calibrate......
This is the calibration of extruder guide. Its just to tell the printer to extrude the right amount of filament in mm per step. When you tell him via pronterface to extrude 100mm, he often extrudes 102,XX or 98,XX, which is too much or too less.

Travel Speed is at standard 150mm/s. Played with that one too, with no effect but much more stringing.

With the bottom cover, do you mean the windshield which is mounted on the two side fans? I made a huge effort to get it in place. Its nearly on the same height as the endstop screw, which is 1-2mm above the hotend nozzle. If this would scratch my prints, it would literally tear them apart. On my prints you can see the lines the hotend traveled, which are also shown in the G-Code in Cura. They're the SAME lines :(

Also got another problem right away. Was printing a part which had four holes for screws. He printed the whole part so good, but on that final part, he just stopped extruding the right amount of material, I think because of retraction (which I reduced to 8mm)
See picture here: http://img4web.com/i/J59W6U.jpg
You can see on the upper right corner the part and how thin those lines are. On the other corners, I already ripped them off.
Tested a second one with a dummy next to it. Same effect on the dummy :/ Already ripped that one apart in my frustration, so sorry for no photo on this one, but its exactly the same. Even reduced print speed down to 75% with no effect.

It might means still retract too much, or something block the extrude after retract.(check the whole path smoothness from extruder to hotend,)
another worth notice is your 3*2 dia PTFE tube inside the hotend.
too short would produce problem after retract like this.

For traveling
Check acceleration in LCD setting.(it's not direct control by cura)

Hi Birk Binnard remove windshield is only ok if side fan not works.
Otherwise the hotend would lost temperature control when side fan blowing.
Since previously your side fan is not correct one, the angle & height of the windshield might be wrong.

Of course there are other method to be windshield.
For example cover some high temperature tape on hotend.

yes, this calibrate is correct method.
What is your result?

BTW, besides that. I still would runtime tune it by M92 E depends on the printed result.

Since filament not all perfect 1.75mm, it's even oval instead of the circle.

Well I had 102mm extruded which was pretty shocking. Calibrated to times with average values from 4 measurements, now its around 100.02mm.
I measure my Filament at ca~ 4-5 points to take an average diameter, which I then put into cura.
What exactly is runtime tune by m92 e?

If I change accel while printing, does he reset it after print? If no, he does it in my printer. Changed it to 3000 as you said (which had no great results, if i've noticed it correctly, it stops and changes directions much smoother. But scratching is still immense :/

I cleaned the whole path from extruder to hotend nozzle two times now because it was little bit clogged. As my print looks really good in all layers, I suppose its the retraction which is "too many retract on too less print"... So maybe I try this part with no retraction enabled :)

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit
Original might be M92 E200
Currently yours might be M92 E196

M503 could dump current value

But on marlin, it's not so runtime changable.
Might need to change before next print.

after change , need to save (in LCD save or M500 command)

Ah okay. Just looked it up. He stored the 192 Steps per mm in the printer although I put them via Pronterface => EEPROM Settings. Reduced from 200 to 192.
Just adjusted the Accel in there (Motion Menu) to 3000.

also, there is an Aretract value - what does this one mean?

All in all.. I still can't get rid of that scratch. Working on Z-Offset 0.52 with perfect layer adhesion, perfect first layers, but after that... it's just frustrating ;_;

retract acceleration, it's another variable related to the E original should be 9000 ?
Scratch I don't think it can be reduce, it's not related to the z-offset directly.
It's slicer path. maybe other slicer could prevent it.
Or, your z min screw too tight. So it's touch the printed area force is large. You can tune it but would need to find a new z-offest of course.
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/
E. Distance between end stop and screw

yep, this one was a tough one when I built the printer. Took me time to understand that mechanism.
First few prints on auto-leveling he was going crazy in the air because the cable disconnected in the cable connector.
I then fixed that and screwed it i n JUST to the moment it clicked. He auto leveled, after third point, he went crazy again because the effector head "bent" too much. Screwed it in again for just a little bit that a little pressure from my index finger made it "click" and on release it "clicked" again. After every disassemble and around every tenth auto level process, I check the screw. Because of the spring, it sits pretty tight and won't change its position.
Also - if the z-min screw sits too tight, wouldn't he totally rip apart my bluetape on first layer and even ruin that one completely? The rips in my bluetape (seen in the video) came from trying to get large parts off the printer, so my fault, not the machines :)

About Accel: Just made that change with only USB Cable connected, no power turned on. Disconnected the USB Cable, and now when you mentioned that 9000, I connected it again.
Accel did a reset to 9000 (from your suggested 3000) and A-Retract is at 9000 as you said.

I plan to change my slicer to simplify3D as it comes on Christmas. Asked Idan Makutski about his profile (which I can then change to my settings on a printer, just want to have a good starting basement)
I really hope that Simplify is much better there, as Cura starts to get on my nerves. Kisslicer never delivered as good results as cura does.

well, there always a gap between the system condition & the slicer setting.
I would think the kits sometimes hard to sync the assembly condition online ;p

That's very interesting Clarence - and I am not sure what my next action should be. I do have my 2 side fans attached OK, but one does not work and, as I have said before, because of their design I had to install them backwards anyway - namely with the ir blades facing towards the hot end instead of away form it.

In an attempt to clear my hot end from clogs I have taken it apart 5 different times today and done everything from replacing the PFTE tube inside it to cleaning it with a drill bit. Nothing seems to work for more than a few minutes of printing, so I am starting to wonder if I should just replace the whole hot end assembly with a different type or model.

Joschka - I certainly agree that the adjustment for the Z-Min limit switch is extremely critical and probably the most important adjustment for the entire printer. I too had a tough time understanding exactly how the whole switch mechanism worked. On m y printer the proper adjustment ended up with the head of the screw very slightly lower than the tip of the hot end, and this caused collision problems with certain types of prints.

What I did to fix this was to cut off about 3mm from the end of the adjustment screw. The resulted in the screw head being above the tip of the hot end, so it no longer posed any sort of collision problem. It also meant that the adjustment screw spring was more compressed, and this had the added benefit of preventing the screw from turning when I disassembled/reassembled the hot end - something I have done far too many times.

I think you will find Simplify3D to be a much better slicer than Cura - I have owned it for several months now and certainly agree that it is a professional level product. I'l be happy to send you my settings as well when you are ready.

However, I still prefer the Craftware slicer, even though it still has some bugs that are being fixed. Craftware slices faster than any other slicer out there and it has even better pre and post-slicing visualization that Simplify3D. Plus it is free, which is a very nice feature indeed.

try acceleration lower to 500, most other users like this acceleration

Birk: You Can always send me your simplify3D settings. Better earlier than later. Oh, and i'd be happy about those craftware settings, too ;pAbout zmin screw: Mine is above The hotend. So no prob there.Clarence: How to save that accel settings in The Printer? He always resets that...

Oh wow!!! Accell on 500 is neat!!! He doesnt crush The endstops of The three towers anymore ? and The travel ways go waaaay smoother, he still scratches but its a looooot quieter! Thanks lawrence!How can I save that setting that I dont have to change it everytime I start The Printer?

There are a save option in lcd

http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/880658Capture.jpg

Uhh... Either I'm blind or I cant find that save option?Btw, I dont have most of those options? :o like those abs or The whole retract menu? Are those new in 2.04? Not that I need them now but... :D

It must there it`s very basic old menu. Search around. Some options not available depends on setting.

Or just use m500 command

Will try commands. What is The command for setting accel?

M503 show current setting and available command

Control-> store memory

Oh... As easy as it seemed :D