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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

原文網址 Henry Goecke
2018-10-10 04:52:04

Where are the FFF files for Simplify3d? I saw mention of them being here, but all I can find is a document written in Japanese...

翻譯年糕

阿童
2018-10-19 08:49:01

Hawke ChienSheng Liu
2018-10-19 10:34:23

Henry Goecke
2018-10-19 18:07:05

Thank You!


原文網址 Henry Goecke
2017-10-02 22:32:41

Can I upgrade my 2.0 to a 3.0? Or could I buy a new print head? (The whole assembly?) I am having tons of problems with calibration and clogging. I tried to buy on the website, but only the hotend was available and no upgrade that I could find. Thanks in advance.

翻譯年糕

Hawke ChienSheng Liu
2017-10-02 22:42:26

No way!
3.0 is not available yet.

Henry Goecke
2017-10-02 22:43:14

I guess I don't know what number is current. I'd be fine with any version.

林似諭
2017-10-02 22:47:25

nozzle mk2 or nozzle mk3

梁琄
2017-10-02 22:56:17

What's your printing issue? Do you have some picture of your printing? That will be helpful to everyone who wanna help you if you share the them with the slice's setting. Maybe you just need to change the PTFE in the nozzle.

Birk Binnard
2017-10-03 02:58:34

Clogged nozzles are a fairly common problem. There are several levels of repair you can try:
1. Remove any existing filament from the printer and disassemble the hotend, leaving the heater disk and thermistor intact. Remove the PTFE tube from the hoten d. If it is blackened/burned on the end replace it. Early ATOM2 models used 3/2 PTFE tubing (3 mm outside/2 mm inside diameter) which is almost impossible to find. Later models used 4/2 which is readily available.
2. If the PTFE tube is OK, hold the hotend with small pliers and heat it to 200 degrees. Working from the top/threaded end, use an unfolded paper clip to root around inside the hotend and pull out any filament that is in there. Use a 0.400 mm drill bit (Amazon has these) or a straight pin from the bottom end to clear anything stuck in the opening. You should be able to see a pinpoint of light when looking through the threaded end.
3. As a last resort, cut one of the thermistor wires and remove the thermistor and the heater disk. Hold just the hotend itself with pliers and heat the threaded part with a propane torch. It will turn orange, red, and then blue. Any crystallized filament inside will be vaporized; you'll see smoke and perhaps even some small flame come out of the hotend. After it cools you'll have to re-solder the thermistor wire when you reassamble everything. Be sure the thermistor leads are completely covered by insulation - if there is a short it will likely destroy the motherboard when you turn on the printer.

蘇子敬
2017-10-03 15:54:46

i also suffer from clogging. and i just replace my hot-end to E3D hot-end.

Birk Binnard
2017-10-03 15:56:38

How difficult was it to attach the E3D to the printer?

蘇子敬
2017-10-03 16:06:43

not too hard

蘇子敬
2017-10-03 16:09:56

蘇子敬
2017-10-03 16:12:49

And the result

蘇子敬
2017-10-03 16:15:32

梁琄
2017-10-03 16:17:35

Henry Goecke One more thing, if you still need to upgrade parts, you could email to "info@atom3dp.com". The stuff will tell you what you need and how you get them.

Birk Binnard
2017-10-03 22:50:54

That is quite impressive - thanks.


 

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