ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

I've looked at MeshMixer twice before and it seemed to me like it was designed more for artistic purposes than anything else. It looks like it would be great for someone who wants to make models of animals or other organic shapes where specific dimensi ons aren't nearly as critical as the overall look of the model.

Since I have no artistic talent at all it was not useful for me, but I can see how it would be perfect for someone like a sculptor or, as we call them here in Los Angeles, a creature creator.

I was intrigued by your comment that "It also fixes anything you ask it to." Does that mean it fixes problems like naked edges? I've yet to find a really efficient way to do that.

Yes it fixes pretty much anything you throw at it. Plus the support is quite awesome. Try and put angle treshold to 8 degrees and add tre ground supports to all high structures. For some objects this works like nothing else. I tryed it with high speed 2 layer prints at 0.2 mm for some toys for my boys. This dinosaur took only 5 hours to finish. Actually Im quite impressed!

Well it seems to fix most things, but sometimes it adds an extra layer thickness. If you use it you should always check dimensions afterwards.

Here is a picture of how my ball heads looked before and after refurbishment.

how did you do the rechromig (galvanising)?

Hi Harry Cayne i placed one ball head at a time in a hand drill and used grit 1200 sandpaper to remove the old chrome. Then i polished it with two kinds of wax based polish. That was it. It really works well still after lots and lots of printing. I also use a small amount of teflon grease on the heads.

ah ok thanks, so you made a nice polishing there no electroplating involved

by the way what software are you using ?

for 3D printing ?

I mainly use Kisslicer and Slic3r, but I have started using CraftWare again and it really works very well. Kiss is very allround and works well. Slic3r is very good for making seamless single walled objects like vases etc.

Did you have problems with the ball head finish?

no not yet I'm a brand new user, but I've just realised that Craftware is hungarian and I am hungarian so I would be happy if this would be a useful software for us !

nice to hear that you are using Craftware too

Ha, that is funny. Go Hungary!

did you use the lubricant included in the kit ?

This is what the rough ball head looked like

I took apart the ball head and refurbished the finish on a lathe. Now it is better than ever before.

By now I have printed 300+ hours and the other ball heads are roughening too! I will refurbish them too, but this is a week point that needs fixing. I propose solid stainless steel of a magnetic grade (ferrite or martensitic).
Further more the plastic rod ends should be made of nylon not ABS. ABS got a high energy surface. You need a low energy material like nylon.

Hsuan-Yih Shawn Chu yes all of the ball heads have been well lubricated at all times.

The thing is that with nylon/stainless steel you dont need lubrication and you get a perfect glide. This is what is commonly used in industrial aplications where you got relative low loads and speed.

Hsuan-Yih Shawn Chu about the lubrication; if you got any plastic/metal mecanical motion contact. A teflon based lubricant is better suited.

Hi Andre, thanks for the suggestions! We will look into the things you mentioned. Our engineer Mark has informed me that our rod ends are actually already nylon. (It was incorrectly labeled on the website, which has just been fixed)

Andrew Lee great, that makes sense. You guys are awesome.

Hi Andre, What have you been printing so far ? Why don't you share some of your works and settings and we could start discussing from there~

I have been printing for slightly less than a week and it is very clear to me that the slicing program is a key piece of the 3D printing environment, perhaps almost as important as the printer itself.

I have changed my KISS settings a bit from the recommended ones. I've got the Fast/Precise slider set to 42, and becau se my printer was experiencing some stepper-motor over-runs I added this statement to the GCode Prefix section:

M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z2000.00 E9000.00 ;max acceleration

This reduces the maximum acceleration from the firmware default of 3000 mm/sec to 2000 mm/sec. I also turned off the Prime Pillar.

In addition to Kisslicer I have been experimenting with another slicer:

http://www.craftunique.com/craftware?utm_source=Blog......

This slicer is not well known, but after looking at all the commonly used ones it was pretty clear to me this one was the most user-friendly, and in particular had the best 3D display of slicing results and extruder path. It also has a wealth of parameters that are not only well arranged, but also have good explanations.

Craftware seems to do a better job of calculating tool paths than Kisslicer. For instance, for an irregularly shaped first layer, Kisslicer will make several outline paths, and then fill in the middle with straight lines. Craftware, on the other hand, makes a series of concentric loops, decreasing in size as it reaches the center.

I think this makes for a better looking bottom, and also reduces the chance of over-run.

On the negative side, Craftware neither checks for nor repairs non-manifold STL models, and will typically do strange things when it tries to slice one. I've also had occurrences where it crashed trying to slice a complex but good STL file. So at this point my sense is there is no one good answer to "which is the best slicer?".

Birk, thanks for sharing I will take a look at it and try it out. But still I would like to gather a list of prefered settings for KISSslicer. After all this still is a very powerful tool (and it rarely crashes;).

Birk Binnard I have started testing CraftWare and my first hand impression is that this really is an awesome program. I will make some prints and share my results in a week or so.

I will be very interested to see what you think about the Craftware slicer. Before my Atom2 arrived I used it to slice many models and I found that the program still had a number of bugs.

For instance, sometimes it would simply stop slicing in the mi ddle of a model. Other times it would put solid layers in the middle of an open vase-type model. And sometimes it would simply crash. But I have to admit that some of my models cause any slicer to crash, and I have tested all of them.

Here is a link to the Craftware user groups. Some of the postings there may help you.

http://www.craftunique.com/forums

I have also tried cradtware before. First impression was that it takes longer to slice. One of the awesome aspect of kisslicer is that it slices extremely fast!

Actually my experience has been just the opposite. Of all the slicers I tested, and I tested all of them, Craftware was by far the fastest slicer, especially when using the Vector slicing option.

I think the reason for this is that Craftware is a mul ti-threaded application, meaning it can break the slicing operation into multiple concurrent independent tasks, and assign each task to an individual CPU for processing.

My computer has an i7 processor; this has 8 independent CPUs and can process 8 instruction streams at once. This means that a multi-threaded slicer will slice the same object 8 times faster than single threaded processor computer.

Birk Binnard I think slic3r/kisslicer use multi-threads,too. But maybe some dependency or slice flow difference.
Anyway, I tried craftware newest version. It's really faster than kisslicer on large object. (just tried to generate a 36MB gcode)

maybe it was the mac version that's slow....