ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

是正常的喔~因為壁薄

不知道如果整個密閉會不會好一點

那是正常的

你要降什麼

機密

只能說 散熱機構還可以設計更好

臥式冰箱爆了，用這兩個製冷片擋著，可是馬力還是不足

在屋外，要抗雨

那是熱敏電阻吧? 接T1
http://reprap.org/....../c/ca/Arduinomega1-4connectors.png

其實你用本來的2.0.5b 或之前的認一版本
configuration.h
# define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0
改成
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

//#define PIDTEMPBED
改成
#define PIDTEMPBED

#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4
改成
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 252.76
#define DEFAULT_bedKi 45.92
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 347.86

嘗試加熱後，熱板無反應，這是要處理哪?

手邊有電錶的話 量量看 BED 有無電壓輸出？？？

有電壓輸出，且螢幕有顯示目前溫度，只是無法加熱

有電壓的話 就檢查接線看看... 公告有勘誤表！
再無法 先試試看 把熱床加熱的部份 裝到 噴頭吧...

ssr的正負極接對嗎

線都接對，但SSR上的紅燈不會亮

接法與說明書對應的位置一致，但SSR就是沒亮@@

先前說明書有誤，不知道後來有沒有修正

有，我已經勘誤此線路的位置

那ssr輸出側可以量到12V電壓嗎

load方可以量到12v

你用手動去設定熱床溫度，量一下ssr接點3跟4接點有12V輸出嗎

3與4是input端，冷冰冰的0，完全沒有輸出@@

試試看這個韌體 https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/....../ATOM-2.0.6b......

熱板一樣無動於衷

那問一下原廠吧

原廠回mail給我，跟我說到這邊發問@@...

你先確定加熱版是否沒有問題，加熱板的兩條線直接在D8，電源供應器再拉1組電源去基板

直接將熱板上的2條電線(非熱敏)接於d08，在打開電源，查看是否加熱? 是這個意思?

圖片不是很清楚

阿 最好不要..那個瓦數出來的電流會搞掛ramps上MOS
一定要過SSR

你把實際接線照下來貼上來看吧...

實際上方圖一張，背面與說明書一致

熱床設定加熱時.. lcd畫面拍一下

手動加熱中，只有熱敏的感測溫度，熱板沒有加熱動作...

看ramps那邊藍粽線有沒有電壓輸入？

有12V電壓輸入

那ssr的3 4那邊有嗎 ?

3 4 沒有電壓

那ramps那端這兩根接線的點呢? D8那

D08那也沒有電壓

hmm 怪...是從D08的端子量的吧?
加熱也許LED2要亮..
另外就是檢查(建議斷電查.. F2是否還導通.. 或是Q3可能壞了..

是從D08端子量的沒錯，請問F2與Q3斷電後怎麼量?

爬了一下文，F2有導通(0)，Q3量測時對歐姆檔也有反應

神秘 那你的問題就在D08 跟Q3之間了.. XDD
斷電狀態下量一下 D08的正級 跟 棕線有沒有導通

D08正極與棕線的歐姆檔沒有導通(1)

怪 這邊應該要通的..

看是不是端子線沒鎖定位之類的
因為電路上這段應該就只是端子->F2->D08正級..這麼單純的線路而已

http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/tag/heat-bed/

一樣沒通，但與棕線的同排的負極有導通(最右邊那個)

咦? 負不應該通著啊 除非上電加熱狀態

加熱板就只是小電阻不管正負級接上就會發熱,但要接ssr要搞清楚正負級

目前狀況是斷電狀態，D08正與棕線歐姆檔為1，D08正與第四個(棕線右側)歐姆檔為0

負極應該是斷路才對...
正級組抗要小

恩，主控版怪怪的

沒錯的話就剩軟體了

如果是就找ramps1.4來換就知道了

如果沒有備品就必須買一塊來是囉^^||

對..但我覺得你可以在端子上線怎麼夾的注意一下 也許沒夾好造成?
上面描述我不確定有沒有看對..
但 "D08正與第四個(棕線右側)歐姆檔為0 "
這句沒看懂在測哪邊
理論上你可以D08 + 對input端子 + 去測

且上電..
照理說.. 你量input端的 -(藍線鎖的地方) 對上 D08的+應該要有12V (不管有沒有加熱)

問題應該出現在板子上的D08，上電後也沒有12V，買新板子試看看^^，感謝Clarence Lee 大力支援~

中間的F02應該要量的到12V過來.. 如果有過
或是板子拆下來 翻過來看D08搞不好沒焊好.. XD

找到問題點了..
一般的RAMPS 熱床的電源input跟 其它的電源是分開的..
樓主照2.0的裝機說明 把熱床電源接去了主板電源而已...
所以熱床當然沒有input電源..


其實1.x的使用者 要使用熱床 可以原來的電供延用
熱床的電源單獨接上..

或是自己想辦法並聯兩路進來..即可

Is your ATOM 1.0 or 2.0？

2.0

Maybe original lcd didn't broken? Might be you use the wrong fw,
the fw version end with b is for ATOM 1.x.

I had that plugged in since march and it worked fine. It just recently broken. So that white tab is ONLY for Atom 1.0? You sure, cause I say the online instructions and it shows the guy putting that in I believe.

also what do you mean by fw?

Did you upgrade Firmware(fw) via arduino IDE recently ?

oh firmware... I upgraded to 2.7, then back down to 2.4

And it worked fine for like 2 days

the new screen works and the old screen doesn't. Same firmware and all.

But did you use the firmware version end with b?
Since ATOM 2.0 firmware can't support this LCD without "ATOM use" pin without modification.
It's highly possible you are using the wrong version firmware 2.04b (it's for ATOM1.x)
But, it might be ok now, just dont' restore fail safe.
Otherwise, remember to set steps/mm to 160 for X,Y,Z axis. & 200 for E axis & save.

Just a reminder, if you don't understand what I am talking about.
It's ok, once when you got problem in the future, it might help.

Right now I am not using any firmware as I installed a new board.

So this is how it went. The screen was messed up. I got told by another user I somehow fried the board with my hotend themostat. So I bought a new board AND a new screen. The new board came first. I installed it and the screen was still messed up. I got the new screen today, put the new screen in and it works fine. So I'm thinking it's the screen.

You're asking if it's the firmware which it's not, because when I installed the firmware it worked. It worked for days on 2.7 and when I went back to 2.4. So if it was the firmware, it shouldn't have worked the moment I installed it right?

But seriously, what does the white plug do?

so this new screen can't be used in atmo 2.0 without the ATOM USE plug?

Sign, you didn't explained what controller board you are using clearly.....
The "ATOM use" plug is designed for ATOM2.0. (you always understand as reversed.) So, it's for the ATOM 2.0(not firmware version, I am talking about model) firmware only work s with it connected.

The firmware version number end with b (like 2.0.4b) it's for ATOM1.0~1.x model.

So, what is your new controller board? It's ramps1.4 or MKS Gen?
What is your step stick now? A4988 or DRV8825?

Whatever, if yours works fine. It's fine.

He is official support, you can ask him more ;p

the controller board I'm using is this

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=oh_aui_detailpage......

The Atom guys said that would work.

So the plug is for Atom 2.0. So that plug literally makes the firmware for Atom 2.0 work? I wasn't using any firmware with a b at the end. If I were, wouldn't the screen have stopped working as soon as I installed the firmware and not after? To be clear, the screen stopped working when I was using the controller board I got from Atom 2.0

Sign, so tired to explain that. Check LCD2004 4bits, 8bits parallel control by yourself.

Answer this question, if the wrong firmware was installed on the original atom 2.0 controller board, why did the screen work for days just fine and then stop?

If you use firmware like 2.0.4b on original LCD , it still possible to display correctly.(just sometimes might mess up) Since 4 bit's LCD connection still there. It's backward compatible. The much serious problem is what's your stepstick using now? A4988 or DRV8825. The steps/mm difference.

I'm going to put back in the old board and install the latest firmware for Atom 2.0 which I think is 2.0.7 and see if it works.

this is what the screen was looking like before

Since your new controller board is the same, actually you can plug the "ATOM use" pins on new controller board. Just find out the same place same pins.

I did, but there's no where to plug that into the new screen. Also I'm rechecking my downloads and I only installed the 2.0.4 and 2.0.7. None of these were version B.

reinstalled the firmware and the screen still doesn't work. Going to try firmware B with the new screen since it doesn't have a "ATOM USE" on it

as expected, 2.0.4 doesn't work on the old screen or new screen. 2.0.5b works on the new screen. So I'm coming to the conclusion my old screen from Atom is just broken. Is there anywhere to buy that screen from other than Atom?

Yinka Alade No, it's customized for ATOM. Never seem it in other place.
BTW, Check your stepstick. If you are using 2.0.5b on "new controller board" but stepstick is DRV8825. need to change the steps/mm as previous mentioned.

I honestly have no idea what a stepstick is. How do I check that?

Who is official support? Hawke ChienSheng ?

http://reprap.org/....../A4988_vs_DRV8825_Chinese......

黃俊傑

I get it now. I took the A4988 chips off of the Atom board and put them onto the new board

So when i comes to firmware 2.0.X and 2.0.Xb... does this change print quality at all?

hmmm from original ATOM board, it's "DRV8825"

Check your steps/mm in LCD menu X,Y,Z E should set to
160,160,160,200

oh, if that's the case, then the chips I took off are "DRV8825". Which ever, I took them off of the ATOM main board. I'll check the LCD panel right now.

right now they're set to half

80, 80, 80, 100

So I can set to double manually and that will be good?

yes, you should double it & store memory

ok. got it all changed and now I'm about to put this stuff back together and do a test print.

I really appreciate all that help, Clarence !

Sometimes the light that turns on the board when the hotend heats up starts flashing. Is that normal?

Yinka Alade if it's the MOS for hotend heater , it's normal

Sorry, one more question, lol.

I have 2 hotends. One brand new from Atom and one i changed the blue and yellow wires for. The brand new one heats up quickly and perfect. The one i changed wires for heats up slower but reaches 200. However it cant reach 240 and stops at 230. You have any idea what the issue could be?

assembly issue , wire issue , thermistor or heater quality/condition.(check via multimeter, compare the resistor value on heater)

got my test prints done and everything looks good. Thanks again Clarence

Birk Binnard the answer is in here. It delt with chaning the steps

"Check your steps/mm in LCD menu X,Y,Z E should set to
160,160,160,200"

Yinka Alade Is that in the configuration.h file? Or somewhere else?

Birk Binnard in the menu in the LCD.

I thought the lcd menu text was somewhere in configuration.h

Birk Binnard could be. I’ve never messed with that file.

Ok. I'll see what I can find.

OK - I found it: the Steps values are in the LCD menu itself, not in any code module. The values are at the end of the Control/Motion screen. Mine are currently set to +160,+160,+160,+0200 so it looks like I should be good to go once I get the new board installed and loaded with my current firmware.

先換一根新的喉管襯管。

換喉管要過陣子才有空呢

你的吐出量為什麼要多個0.05

這好像原廠就這樣設定？

襯管狀況不好的話，回抽會沒啥作用；另外既然要細細印，只要料還出得來，溫度可以再降。

我用185，是說這溫度還可以更低？

原廠設定流量微調記的好像是1不是1.05

然後溫度試看看用175

擠出量先校正吧..0.05會對過多的擠出更明顯...

感謝各位，鼻涕狀況好多了，不過我發現我在印的物件，同樣的副本都在同一邊有比較多的擠料，這問題在何處？

再做一次自動校正吧，可能z offset有些地方太緊，料擠不出來
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-2/......

第一層不要印那麼薄 0.05mm，實在很嚴苛……勉強加一點，比方說0.1mm

bed roughness 有開0.1 所以第一層應該實際是0.15mm
缺點是物件最後高度多了0.1mm

我的習慣⋯⋯
回抽8的話⋯⋯
預擠7.95⋯⋯
少一點點⋯
不知道有沒有效

這個印完再重印一個看看，謝謝提供參數。

實際列印0.1都沒這麼困難…@@

最近公司搬家入駐新公司後，最近都在混亂中，可能裝好校正不夠充分，得找時間好好平台校正。

印到現在還是一堆鼻涕…@@

看樣子可能預擠要少一點。

雖然跟料也有關係，但是你願意提供STL讓大家試試看嗎?

Poyuan Huang 私訊給你..^^

我看你那個牽絲不太像牽絲，你切片後看看有沒有多跑出不該有的路徑，有的話，換個切片程式，或是原本的圖要修正。

那個我也覺得不是牽絲，比較像是鼻涕亂滴…XD

沒時間跟 0.05 慢慢耗，乾脆 0.1 層高去印，
整個印出來我都覺得很OK，也沒有鼻涕亂滴的困擾。

請問你是掃描然後打印一模一樣的出來??
還是自己畫設計圖???

非常搭配 XD

請問這個剖面的功能是怎麼做的?

像原配的 好看喔!

帥唷！..很漂亮

這張比較接近實際顏色

我有PLA/ABS 的問題，塑型冷卻後這到底可不可用在餐具?
也有看過笛子的~
安不安全?

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-2/
太敏感 要調整一下

校正螺絲需要微調

要怎麼看才知道是太敏感?

E. 微動開關與螺絲的距離

話說 這平臺真平！

而且裝反了...

面朝哪邊是比較無所謂... ;p

有遇過蛇管拔掉就都OK的

後吹風扇朝Z軸，調整螺絲朝著LCD

室內溫度好低喔9~10度C，AUTO LEVEL 最好加溫到200

溫度感應是不是有可能有問題

我朋友有一台ATOM 2.0，入手一年多了，都還沒組，叫我幫他組...........哈有救嗎?

賣一賣吧，他沒心玩

我沒有這問題

後吹風扇反的?

回抽長度過高?

噴頭與喉管在加熱塊中有間隙，在一直回抽的狀況下，料容易積在間隙或在回抽時跑入喉管中，這時就容易有堵料的問題，拆裝噴頭組時，請注意鎖緊。

要看您圖檔,細節複雜處理程度,就有可能回抽次數過高,有可能!~