ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

可以請問一下你印什麼東西？

這個

層高0.2，蜂巢式填充5%

錯位那層的尺寸有跑掉嗎

沒有，應該只是平移

那比較可能是噴頭把物件帶位移了
可以試看看brim開大一點試看看

2100設定哪一種模式？

StealthChop

這模式下，我經常莫名其妙錯位，聽說是過熱或這模式扭力不足造成，我切換另一種模式後，就沒遇過問題了，溫度也很低，聲音一樣小聲，但聽說某些馬達會嗡嗡叫，我用ATOM2.0的馬達很正常，提供參考

請問一下你的馬達有改並連嗎？

戴大 如果單顆馬達錯位
那以delta原理就不會是水平位移
這說法成立嗎

我看這幾次的位移其實就是是在三軸方向，相當於某一軸滑塊向下或向上多移動幾步的結果

所以一開始我也沒想到是物件被推動，但是聽你一說就去合了一下殘膠的痕跡，似乎真的被推移過 …… 查看更多

結果說了這麼多還是錯位了....囧
看來只能改用SpreadCycle模式試試看了

底板確定沒有位移的痕跡

Stealthchop必要就埋一下測溫線看三組tmc2100的溫度...
還有就是皮帶不要太緊,阻力會太大... …… 查看更多

從這照片就可以表示 不是物件位移！

皮帶調整我用手機的調音器大約在80Hz,不過真的很難判斷怎樣才是適合的鬆緊度

這篇受用...我也是改TMC2100 (StealthChop)...印小物還好..印大物..常常錯位,有時都已花了10個小時印到50%,來個錯位!只能停止重印.一開始我也以為是噴頭衝撞物件導致(無法盯著看十幾個小時等錯位,只能猜想)..
結果今早發生在我眼前,很正常列印,突然出現刮物件的聲音,然後開始整個錯位,很確定底部沒移動!
看大家的回文..今晚先來調整皮帶...真的不行只能改SpreadCycle....

請問 如果SpreadCycle模式, 最簡單的設定就是把CFG1接GND.?其他都不用再更改嗎?包括marlin嗎?

把皮帶調鬆之後ATOM的聲音又更進一步變安靜了，超明顯！看來我以前真的逼太緊了

加速度不能太高，你是設多少

請問改TMC2100有什麼好處呢？
還只是就比較安靜這樣？

加速度在ATOM的選單內設定500
我當初就只是為了讓他安靜點 因為必須放在房間

我也是設到500，我實驗的方法是讓噴嘴到中心點z0，接著到x柱下在到y 柱，再到中心z0,看離底板距離有沒變化，有就再下調

我把皮帶調到很鬆之後印到現在約兩小時，狀況似乎解除了，原本都不用半小時就位移了，希望就這麼結案了...

又錯位惹.....

馬達溫度也監測一下...

改焊完畢了,運行中,主觀的心得:
Stealthchop 幾乎可以算寂靜無聲..只聽到噴頭的散熱風扇聲音
SpreadCycle 升降會有種金屬球在軌道滾的低頻聲音,不大聲,但能聆聽的到 …… 查看更多

請問 柯紀維 錯位最後如何解決?
我也出現類似錯位了 T__T"
皮帶更新，三柱都上油 ~

Maybe you should re-assemble your hub again.
What you said make me feel your hub is very unstable.

Something is preventing the hot end from extruding the proper amount of plastic. If your prints are OK then the problem is almost certainly not with the printer itself - your teflon tube is not kinked, your hot end is not clogged, and your extruder is feeding properly.

Are you using Atom2 firmware ver. 2.03? If you are I'd suggest going back to Ver. 2.02 and seeing if that fixes your problem. For me, 2.03 would not store the Z offset values and I had to put this command into the GCode Header section of my slicer:

G29 Z+0.6 ;auto level

Without this the printer would use the default Z-offset settings which positioned the hot end too close to the print surface on the first layer.

thanks, i'll try the 2.02 move, and i'm inspecting the hub to see if something is wrong but everything seems to be well tightened, teflon tube is ok, before the print pla is flowing normally, during filament loading and heating too, could it be a problem with the step motor that feed the teflon tube going wrong and making very very small forward backward moves?

No. It's not the problem caused by retraction.

It is highly unlikely that there is a problem with the extruder motor - since your actual prints are OK the motor must be functioning OK.

Has the hot end scratched the glass print plate at all? That is what happened to me and is a good indicator that the Z offset values are incorrect.

Charlie makes a good point - the printer is quite sensitive to Retract/Prime values. My printer is currently set at Retract/Prime = 8.00 mm (both should be the same) and a Retract Speed = 60 mm/sec.

Charlie makes a good point - the printer is quite sensitive to Ratract/Prime settings. My printer currently has Retract & Prime = 8.00 mm (both should be the same) and Retract Speed = 60 mm/sec.

yes i got the problem and some scratches during my very first tests, so for going back to firmware 2.02, i just download and install the ATOM 1.x → 2.0.2 Firmware Upgrade ?

it says it's only for people that upgrade from 1.X version to 2, will it work anyway? don't want to destroy my printer software !!

nobody? i go with the 1.X to 2.X upgrade ?

My printer is an Atom2 so I simply used the Ver. 2.02 firmware. I think the Atom 1.X -> 2.02 firmware is only for old Atom 1 printers and would not be OK for an Atom2 printer because they have probably have different motherboards.

I had an old copy of the 2.02 firmware on my computer. I don't know where you can download it from, but someone else here should know.

http://www.atom3dp.com/....../09/ATOM-2.0.2-Firmware.zip

mmmm, can't find it on the web, would you mind to send it to me in mp please ? thanks a lot

1.x - 2.02 firmware is ONLY for atom 1 machines with 2.0(1.99) hardware. It will not work for a printer that is 2.0 to begin with, because 1.x has different hardware

If ur gcode header has a G29 + Z line, i would suggest to remove it. Run a perfect auto level from the printer and set ur Z offset accordingly and then dont touch it again. It should work fine

thanks a lot Mr Lee,

I had a similar but worse problem a few months ago - the end of the tube inside the hot end had collapsed on itself. Since I had no replacement tubing available I simply cut off the burned end and put the rest back in the hot end. My printer has been printing fine since then.

你量量看抽出來的ptfe管長，也有可能是拉出來的時候拉破的。噴頭上殘留PLA可以用餐巾紙擦掉，熱敏洞裡面的要清理不簡單，容易斷掉或短路，我通常不會動它，除非發現測溫失準了

Nice application.