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Maybe you should re-assemble your hub again.
What you said make me feel your hub is very unstable.

Something is preventing the hot end from extruding the proper amount of plastic. If your prints are OK then the problem is almost certainly not with the printer itself - your teflon tube is not kinked, your hot end is not clogged, and your extruder is feeding properly.

Are you using Atom2 firmware ver. 2.03? If you are I'd suggest going back to Ver. 2.02 and seeing if that fixes your problem. For me, 2.03 would not store the Z offset values and I had to put this command into the GCode Header section of my slicer:

G29 Z+0.6 ;auto level

Without this the printer would use the default Z-offset settings which positioned the hot end too close to the print surface on the first layer.

thanks, i'll try the 2.02 move, and i'm inspecting the hub to see if something is wrong but everything seems to be well tightened, teflon tube is ok, before the print pla is flowing normally, during filament loading and heating too, could it be a problem with the step motor that feed the teflon tube going wrong and making very very small forward backward moves?

No. It's not the problem caused by retraction.

It is highly unlikely that there is a problem with the extruder motor - since your actual prints are OK the motor must be functioning OK.

Has the hot end scratched the glass print plate at all? That is what happened to me and is a good indicator that the Z offset values are incorrect.

Charlie makes a good point - the printer is quite sensitive to Retract/Prime values. My printer is currently set at Retract/Prime = 8.00 mm (both should be the same) and a Retract Speed = 60 mm/sec.

Charlie makes a good point - the printer is quite sensitive to Ratract/Prime settings. My printer currently has Retract & Prime = 8.00 mm (both should be the same) and Retract Speed = 60 mm/sec.

yes i got the problem and some scratches during my very first tests, so for going back to firmware 2.02, i just download and install the ATOM 1.x → 2.0.2 Firmware Upgrade ?

it says it's only for people that upgrade from 1.X version to 2, will it work anyway? don't want to destroy my printer software !!

nobody? i go with the 1.X to 2.X upgrade ?

My printer is an Atom2 so I simply used the Ver. 2.02 firmware. I think the Atom 1.X -> 2.02 firmware is only for old Atom 1 printers and would not be OK for an Atom2 printer because they have probably have different motherboards.

I had an old copy of the 2.02 firmware on my computer. I don't know where you can download it from, but someone else here should know.

http://www.atom3dp.com/....../09/ATOM-2.0.2-Firmware.zip

mmmm, can't find it on the web, would you mind to send it to me in mp please ? thanks a lot

1.x - 2.02 firmware is ONLY for atom 1 machines with 2.0(1.99) hardware. It will not work for a printer that is 2.0 to begin with, because 1.x has different hardware

If ur gcode header has a G29 + Z line, i would suggest to remove it. Run a perfect auto level from the printer and set ur Z offset accordingly and then dont touch it again. It should work fine

thanks a lot Mr Lee,

and the small fan keeps turning even if the printer is at 25° doing nothing, dont know if it should be like this, there is nothing about in troubleshooting section in the manual...

small fan behind the hotend is always turning when you turn on the atom2.0. Two side fans will turn when the machine start to work at the designation heights. (Offical setting is 3mm heights)

ok, what to do if they never start after 3mm height ? i made successfull prints without them turning but i got some problems with curves when they are under the model with no support below : i think it's because the pla is not cooled enough, side fans not working... they are well plugged and the wires are ok, how could i check them or make a test to activate them ? what could i do please?

You can set heights in the slicer software.

already done, is there a way atom team to perform a test to check the hardware and to see where the problem is ?

thanks a lot, i know this setting, but the fans just don't work, they are plugged, wires ok, connected to the atom board at the right place etc.... what could i do?

Red circle upside down. change one then try again

quick way to turn on fan is in here: main menu > control > temperature > fan speed (any value above 0)

check all the wire connectors again, make sure there is enough stripped wire to contact the actual terminals inside. if there isn't enough stripped wire, the contacts inside are only clamping onto the rubber and not the wire

sounds like "E. Distance between end stop and screw".
check this website to fix it,step by step.
if still same,just try to print something and take first layer photo. …… 查看更多

Hey there :)The carriages do the sqme thing on my printer. When they hit the endstops i always worry if it smashes them :D never thought about asking that.About the fans: Did you load the kisslicer settings from the support webpage? It should allow coo ling above 3mm height. It can be changed in kisslicer. If you found and tested it, check the cables in The cable collector. In mine the Z-endstop in The effector got disconnected :DAnd about slicing Software: Try some until you find yours. At The Moment i'm happy with cura, slic3r gives a bit more Options but has more complexity to it.I mostly print with sd because then I can turn my pc off ? Best wishes

hi,new atomer. it's normal,but u can try slow down when it auto-leveling. the first layer will be better.
just take look the photo.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=751011125024969&set=pcb.1639232102981745&type=3&relevant_count=3

thanks a lot, how to slow down when autolevelling ? by adjusting the fr percentage with the knob on the printer?

Yep, that will work. Sounds awkward for the First Moment, sound of The stepper motors i mean. But sadly it wont change much. It will still be going with full Force to hit the endstop. Just with less speed

yep!!! u right.
u need slow down it before it touch first point on plate.
then the sound will be lower and the first layer should be smooth.

mmmm.... maybe u should change the acceleration in the marlin. X,Y,E 9000->500 it should change a lot.

i remember you can change acceleration on LCD.
control > motion > acceleration ?

I was wondering why they put a Firmware up where this is not changed from the beginning? :o

Who knows

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9Al873W3LY

I hoped somebody hear would have known :D

ah...of course u can do that. u just need change all firmware for auto-level. but not so much info for that.
for official version u only have two choice to slow down that. that's all i known.

Why does the printer in this video do multiple taps at each location? My printer does only 1.

Maybe because it's atom 1.0? Was even wonderig because mine starts on C / Z tower, in the back of the printer while this one starts on the A tower, the left one. But this could only be a mounting thing with the Display :)

It's a special branch based on
https://groups.google.com/forum/......
IT's trying to probe the same point till it's repeatable result.

There are also another change to average probe result
"Changed autoprobe behavior to average instead of exact match "
http://www.simplyalt.com/atom/viewthread.php?tid=1001......

Yes, It's the day I finish the assembly of the ATOM1.0
I wired the x,y,z motor in the wrong order. So, it's moving order is reversed between x & y tower
original video is this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msVoXpr2WII

That's an interesting set of modifications - but an old version from back in 2014. Is there a current version that includes those same mods?

thanks for the answers, i'm trying new settings and making tests.... in fact the printer is ok, but there is a problem when it start printing from the back side (near the Z axis ) : the head keeps scratching a bit the bed no matter what i do with Z offset tweaking, the min Z offset is good when i put a sheet of paper under the head when it's making the process, but i see that when it start printing near the perimeter near Z axis , the head touch the plate... like if the Y arm was too short and the head not exactly horizontal, so it touch the bed.... Any ideas ? i re tight the belts, redone Z offset etc ... nothing change ....