ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 Lawrence Lee
2015-12-01 11:37:58

[ 代印 ] Hello 各位！鑒於越來越多客戶向我們詢問代印服務，ATOM 這邊會開始將所有代印需求導向有 3D Hubs 帳號的 ATOM 用戶。想要練功或做生意的務必記得上去 3D Hubs 註冊一個帳號並且清楚標注機器型號、所在城市等資訊。註冊之餘也記得幫 ATOM 2.0 評個分喔！

往後我們會提供這個連結給客戶： https://goo.gl/YQGLdl

Happy Printing！

＃ 3dhubs

陳順得
2015-12-01 12:57:12

由於沒有1.99，所以我登錄的機型是ATOM beta版，因此在2016的機器問券調查之中可能沒幫ATOM加到分...

Charlie Ting
2015-12-01 15:23:28

響應號召

胡育震
2015-12-01 15:23:55

感謝

Charlie Ting
2015-12-01 15:59:31

New print

Shih Mu Jung
2015-12-01 22:36:41

Ryan Wee Ng Liang Hung

陳為騰
2015-12-01 23:07:35

列印3次才完成作品！

Charlie Ting
2015-12-01 23:48:24

Marvin in black

Lawrence Lee
2015-12-02 11:29:31

這好強...

Yu Shu Huang
2015-12-12 11:05:18

0.2mm和0.1mm都是一次完成，可是環有點醜

Mickey Chuang
2015-12-21 09:44:22

我註冊了一個帳號 " mickey ", 但是好像沒有高雄的 community 可以選, 目前被歸在 Taipei

Mickey Chuang
2016-01-30 22:55:25

它叫我印 50 micron 的.....我還是第一次印這麼細的, 印了三次才出來

陳為騰
2016-02-04 16:08:10

收到來自3dhubs.com寄來的貼紙及信件

陳順得
2016-02-04 17:12:35

我都沒有……

原文網址 鄭士豪
2015-12-01 10:02:27

今天上班來看成品～最近印都會這樣～某些層會很明顯線條～內填充會斷斷續續不堅固～

曾俊維
2015-12-01 11:42:04

內外圈的速度差太多了。太快會粘不起來，線材也有可能受潮了。

鄭士豪
2015-12-01 15:57:26

重新印ㄧ隻下身ok臉掛點

原文網址 Ver Worlding Max
2015-12-01 09:45:59

昨天列印了一個機器人
檔案是
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:331035
這個65P的,用KISSlicer打開好像有破圖不知道大家打開是如何?
列印時感覺側吹風散3mm開太高2-3mm有點走山
但是完成後發現身體與腳尖的部分確實有很大的位移
但是到了頭部又確很正常的完成!?一整個詭異@@
想請問大家是否是我的參數還有哪裡可以改進?
結果最後機器人還是被自己拆斷了腳...

陳明谷
2015-12-01 10:00:23

看起來不是移位是斷料
可以試看看把destring速度100降到80

曾俊維
2015-12-01 11:43:11

天氣冷，不用把風扇開那麼大，關到剩30~20看看。

Ver Worlding Max
2015-12-01 12:25:33

降到80下次試試看，另外我室溫有空調都是26-27這樣風扇也要關到30-20嗎？

陳明谷
2015-12-01 12:28:36

我是開50
有跨橋才開到100
空調風口要注意別吹到噴頭

Ver Worlding Max
2015-12-01 13:46:17

所以是建議速度80測吹50這樣子嗎？

陳明谷
2015-12-01 13:48:23

斷料有很多原因
目前提供的是其中一個狀況方法
如果失敗就再換其他方法
你可以多嘗試看看

Lie Fecund
2015-12-01 16:58:59

Aniq Mahbullah

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-12-01 03:02:02

Oh my!

I was cleaning off the hot end prior to starting a new print when I noticed some melted plastic around the hot end. Upon closer inspection I saw that a big wad of plastic was stuck to the hot end above the lower heat shield. So I took off one of the screws holding the shield and saw what is in pic #1.

Somehow a bunch of plastic had gotten stuck above the lower heat shield and completely filled in the space above it. What a surprise! So I simply did a Preheat to 200 and pulled it off. I used an alcohol wipe to clean of the small amount of plastic left and reassembled the heat shield. Pic #2 shows what came off the hot end.

The entire cleaning/fixing process took about 15 minutes. I found it handy to disconnect all the magnetic rods except the front 2. This holds the printhead at a convenient height and also allows you to move it around for easy access.

翻譯年糕

André Medborg
2015-12-01 04:30:05

It seems like your hotend tip is not screwed together probarly, like it oozes out between the heater element and the metal.

André Medborg
2015-12-01 04:35:50

Your side cooling fans are turning so that they pick up the hotter air from inside the hotend array. Is that on purpose? It cools much better if they suck air from outside. If that makes any sense.

André Medborg
2015-12-01 04:37:02

That has nothing to do with the oozing, mearly an observation.

Birk Binnard
2015-12-01 04:49:00

Hi André

Thanks for your feedback. The printer has been printing for almost 2 hours and there is no evidence of melted plastic oozing out from the hot end, so I am not sure where it came from. But I'll check again in another couple of hours just to make sure.

Yes, I am aware I installed the 2 side-blowing fans backwards, and I understand completely how this affects their filament cooling ability. I've been procrastinating turning them around because the hot end assembly is difficult and time-consuming to take apart and put back together - those tiny screws and nuts are really a challenge. But I will get around to it one of these days.

PS: I'd love to see the machine that makes those tiny screws and nuts. I've never seen anything like them before - except in the watchmaking business.

André Medborg
2015-12-01 05:01:59

Ha, ha, you are right those tiny bits are a pain.

Clarence Lee
2015-12-01 08:38:30

It`s usually not ooze from hotend. Its sticky back when print wents wrong when previous printed path didn`t stick well.

Birk Binnard
2015-12-01 12:53:51

Clarence: I think you are correct. The print before my last one did go bad - it got unstuck from the Zebra plate because I forgot to include a suitable skirt. I didn't catch the problem until after the printer had been producing a bunch of spaghetti for about 15 minutes.

It never occurred to me to look for anything like what I found later. So I have learned yet another lesson about 3D printing.

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-01 19:14:37

Can confirm what Clarence said. Started a print, went away for an hour, got back and he printed a spiral of spaghetti. After a second look I saw that the whole windshield was filled with filament. :) But thats no big deal, remove and go on :)

原文網址 曾俊維
2015-11-30 20:54:12

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:745523

李穆和我分享了這篇文，但是，我看不懂，貼上來和大家討論，如果你也有和我一樣，有真圓度不夠的使用者，大家一起來討論吧，印完要如何調整，是不是要先印張A4紙，把紙上那些量角的線先印出來，才能做量測，真希望能把自己的機器調到最完美的狀態。