Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

I'm working on a wolf art doll that will have a plush body with resin head, ears and paws!

From 3D Model, to print, to mold, to resin cast!

I love my Anycubic Photon. I can make art dolls and resin casts from my printed models so much faster than sculpting traditionally! (even if my print had a few errors...)

我正在製作一個狼藝術娃娃, 它將擁有一個有樹脂頭, 耳朵和爪子的豐盛的身體!

從3 d模型到列印, 到模特, 到樹脂鑄造!

我愛我的任何立方體光子. 我可以用印刷模特製作藝術娃娃和樹脂鑄造, 比傳統的雕塑快得多! (即使我的列印有一些錯誤...)

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Just a quick question! Is this a leveling issue?

I have multiple parts set up on my build plate. The issue I am having is, only one or two will print. the other will not adhere to the buildplate, and just print at the bottom of the vat.
I have had success with these objects at the settings I am using before. The only difference is I mirrored the objects (to print the left arm to match the right arm)

So the image example, the forearm part was the only one to print, the other two did not adhere. whereas they had before I mirrored the object.
Surely this indicated a levelling issue, correct?

I level using the paper method and generally don't have much issue until now. Any tips or leveling techniques are welcome!

只是一個簡單的問題! 這是一個平穩的問題嗎?

我的構建板上有多個部件. 我遇到的問題是, 只有一兩個會列印. 另一個人不會堅持建築板, 只是列印在增值稅底部.
我在以前使用的設定中, 這些物件成功了. 唯一的區別是我反射物件(列印左臂以匹配右臂)

所以影象例子, 前臂部分是唯一列印的, 另外兩個沒有堅持. 而他們在我反射了這個物體之前.
這肯定表明瞭一個平穩的問題, 對嗎?

我用紙張方法平分, 現在一般都沒有甚麼問題. 歡迎任何提示或平平技術!

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Quick Chitubox question!
Will all those little support nubs print onto the exterior of the model? They are heavy supports that are supporting the inside. Maybe the model walls are too thin?

My brother modeled these cute little ham-hams, they're hollowed out and will be used for mold-making.

快速chitubox問題!
所有這些小小的支援會印在模型的外表上嗎? 他們是支援內心的沈重支援. 也許模特牆壁太薄了?

我的兄弟模特了這些可愛的火腿腿, 它們被空洞了, 將用來製作模具.

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

I'm pretty happy with how this print is coming along, using Anycubic Skin. Had to set my base exposure to 115 sec to get things to adhere to the buildplate but haven't had any issues since then!

Is there any easier way to try and account for shrinkage in resin so I don't have to constantly sand the heck out of my models to fit together, or is sanding just inevitable?

我對這個列印的進展相當滿意, 使用任何cubic面板. 必須把我的基礎曝光設定為115秒, 才能讓事情堅持到建築板, 但從那以後就沒有任何問題!

是否有任何更容易的方法來嘗試和計算樹脂的縮小, 這樣我不用不斷地從模型里沙出來適應, 還是是不可避免的?

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Requesting some input!
The problem:
Anycubic Skin refuses to adhere to the buildplate.
It just gets cured to the bottom of the vat on the FEP.
Dragon Resin Grey is adhering and printing successfully without issue. Anycubic Skin will not, regardless of exposure settings.

Troubleshooting:
- FEP was replaced several prints ago - prints remained successful afterwards when printing in Grey resin.
- I have tried several different exposure settings and 2 different objects. Skin Always fails.
- I have re-leveled the build plate.
- Printed the same test objects, using my Dragon Resin (Grey), with success The Grey adheres to the print bed without issue. The Anycubic Skin does not.
-Temperature of the room is maintained using a space heater between 60-75 degrees
- Resin is stored in a comfortable indoor temperature (72 degrees)
- Resin is always shaken before pouring

Test Object:
- Test object is a flat disk-like pendant that is printed flat against the build plate. this test object has printed successfully numerous times in two other types of resin.
- I have also printed other objects with success in grey, that skin fails. I have yet to have a single successful print in Skin.
My thoughts:
> I do not think this is a leveling issue.
> My only conclusion is, do I have a bad bottle of resin?
> Anycubic Skin was purchased via Amazon
> Anycubic Skin has a lot of bubbles after shaking, but it's less viscous than Dragon Resin so it may not indicate any problem but I'll mention it anyways.
Successful Grey print settings (A little overexposed but at least it adhered)but Trying the same in Skin yielded no success.
Normal Exposure: 15sec
Offtime: 7 sec
Base Exposure: 70sec
Base Layers: 8

Failed Skin settings:
Normal Exposure: 5sec
Offtime: 2sec
Base Exposure: 50sec
Base Layers: 8sec

請求一些意見!
問題:
Anycubic面板拒絕遵守建築板.
它剛剛被治癒到fep上的增值稅底部.
龍樹脂灰色成功地堅持和列印, 沒有問題. 任何cubic面板不會, 不管曝光設定.

煩惱:
- fep在幾張列印之前被更換-之後印刷灰色樹脂時, 列印仍然很成功.
-我嘗試了幾個不同的曝光設定和2個不同的物體. 面板總是失敗.
-我重新調整了建造盤子.
-用我的龍樹脂(灰色)列印同樣的測試物件, 成功, 灰色堅持在列印床上. Anycubic面板沒有.
-房間的溫度是使用60-75度之間的空間加熱器保持.
-樹脂儲存在舒適的室內溫度(72度)
-樹脂在傾盆前總是動搖

測試物件:
-測試物件是一個平盤一樣的吊墜, 列印平板. 這個測試物件已經成功地印刷了另外兩種樹脂.
-我也印刷了其他在灰色中成功的物體, 面板失敗了. 我還沒有一個成功的面板列印.

我的想法:
>我不認為這是一個平凡的問題.
>我唯一的結論是, 我有一瓶樹脂嗎?
> anycubic面板是通過亞馬遜購買的
> anycubic面板在搖晃後有很多泡泡, 但它比龍樹脂少, 所以它可能不會顯示任何問題, 但無論如何我會提到它.

成功的灰色列印設定(有點過量, 但至少它堅持), 但在面板嘗試同樣的嘗試沒有成功.
正常曝光: 15秒
時間: 7秒
基底曝光: 70秒
底層: 8

面板設定失敗:
正常曝光: 5秒
時間: 2秒
基底曝光: 50秒
底層: 8秒

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Got my Anycubic Skin and did an exposure test.
Which one do you think looks the best? O:

(This is a bunch of photos of the same single test, my phone camera isn't great so hopefully the multiple photos helps show detail.)

得到了我的anycubic面板並做了一個曝光測試.
你認為哪個看起來最好? O:

(這是同一次測試的一堆照片, 我的手機相機不是很棒, 希望多張照片能顯示細節. 年一月日

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Hi! I'm looking for more suggestions on resins to print a Ball Jointed Doll with! It needs to be sturdy enough to withstand tension when strung together with elastic.

[NOTE: I plan on making a mold, but a client wants one that's 3D printed , rather than waiting for me to make a finalized one via silicone molds & casting resin]

These are the types I've used:
- Anycubic Green printed in wonderfully crisp detail, but it's very brittle and probably wont withstand being held by elastic for very long.
- Dragon Resin (White) I'm really liking since it's flexible!
- Dragon Resin (Grey) Its also flexible but my prints aren't coming out as nicely, which could be my own issues with temperature and exposure settings
- I'm thinking of buying Dragon Resin (Flesh tone) but also want to try other brands too!

But I'm looking for some more recommendations for relatively sturdy, but more flexible resin (not brittle like Anycubic) Ideally in Skin-tone/Flesh color!

Thanks for looking! <:

嗨! 我正在尋找更多關於樹脂的建議, 以印出一個球關節娃娃! 當與彈性纏住時, 它需要足夠堅固地承受緊張.

[注: 我計劃製作一個模具, 但客戶想要一個3 d列印的, 而不是等我通過矽膠和鑄造樹脂]

這些是我使用的類型:
- anycubic green列印的細節非常簡潔, 但它非常微小, 可能無法忍受被彈性控制很久.
-龍樹脂(白)我真的很喜歡, 因為它很靈活!
-龍樹脂(灰色)也很靈活, 但我的列印沒有那麼好, 這可能是我自己的溫度和曝光設定的問題
-我想買龍樹脂(肉色調), 但也想嘗試其他品牌!

但我正在尋找一些更多的建議, 以比較堅固的樹脂(不像anycubic)最好是面板色調/肉體顏色!

謝謝你的尋找! <:

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Looking for some advice!

Ever since I've started using Grey Dragon Resin, I've been running into issues which include:

1.Very visible layer lines - shifting? (A leveling problem? Z-axis wobble? Original Photon, without a Z-Axis upgrade.)
You can see a very defined line across the lower part of his tunic that is not present in my model.

2. Thin layers of Gloopy, goop resin. Sitting on my models, draped over them, hanging in supports, and on the FEP in the vat. (Resin problem? Maybe the temperature of the room the printer and resin are stored in is too cold? It has no central heating)

3. Blobby/loss of detail (exposure settings?)

4. Any recommendations of other relatively flexible/forgiving resin for larger scale figures? I've just about finished my Dragon Resin grey bottle so I'm looking to try out something new!

Post-work: After removing the print from the printbed and removing supports, it was rinsed in the 1st IPA bath of less-clean alcohol, then rinsed a second time in a 2nd bath of fresh IPA. So I don't feel like any extra wet resin cured onto it to cause loss of detail.

翻譯年糕

Should these be printed flat on the buildplate, or should I support them? the backs are hollow and the faces will be used to make a one-sided mold.
Will they adhere to the build plate? Or is it better to just go ahead and tilt the models and support them?

翻譯年糕

Is it time for new FEP? It's been a few months and tons of prints! The weird white streak never seems to want to come off, probably I'm being too gentle?
if so any recommendations on where to order some? :)

翻譯年糕