Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

I’ve been placed in quarantine for the past two weeks. Luckily no symptoms so I should be fine at this point. But my printer has had a good workout. This isn’t even everything I’ve printed. Not all of my failures either. Lesson learned to replace fep and make sure I keep an eye on resin levels. If I crammed a build plate like you guys I’m sure it would have been two days worth.

I’ve had a blast making so many different items for friends. Also really contemplating getting a printer for the terrain. 15 hours on a photon for some of this is insane.

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Im printing a terrain item that is pretty big and low detail (2700 layers). Ideally id print not on the photon. But its my only printer. Its predicted to be 13 hours and use 250ml of resin hollowed and supported.

This is my second hollowed print and by far my biggest. Would it be possible to have someone check over my supports/hollowing or give me some pointers? Additionally can I do larger layers than .05 to speed it up? Or is that about the biggest I can go and keep this massive print together?

If not allowed I understand. But im hesitant to print 1/4 of a bottle in one go if I didnt do this correctly.

For reference its the half circle piece on the left in this file rotated 90 degrees vertically to fit the print bed.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412432 翻譯年糕

I’m sure most of you know this. But if you print something and there is a hole or it breaks. And you don’t want to reprint or can’t use cad.

Buy syringes to layer resin and cure with a uv flashlight. Your life will change forever.

I’m printing world of Warcraft minis that a friend made stls for. They were not designed with printing in mind. And these syringes are allowing me to rebuild pieces that would have never printed otherwise.

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I tried to search and only found people having similar issues. Long post ahead I'm sorry.

I attempted to use mesh mixer yesterday for a print. I was using MM so I could hollow better than chitubox which is pretty bad in comparison.

I used the auto supports and they seemed pretty awesome from initial looks with only needing a few added. I couldn't get supports correct in MM so I added through chitu and it came out looking solid.

Here is where my issue lies. The supports on MM are pretty thick and came too close to my model. they ended up fusing together and make it almost impossible to remove without hours of work and breaking/ cracking. I even broke out a dremel to speed their removal up.

Is there a way to edit the auto supports and pull them a little further from the body? I quite like how well they worked and how much time they saved initially. But overall they didnt help much looking at how long ill be trimming my model.

Should I just hollow in MM and then add my supports manually in CB? Putting internal supports in CB is pretty time consuming and difficult for me as a newb.

Thanks all for the help.

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The detail this printer can do is insane. These fingers and spikes are so thin and yet came out perfect. My ice devil is done. Needs some cleaning up still, but done. Also 6/6 on successful prints. I’ll be so upset when I finally fail.

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Im trying to do my first "large" print on an anycubic photon. Im not quite sure how many base layers to do, or how long I should be setting my exposure with anycubic clear resin. I want to print the mz4250 ice devil. I have all my supports placed and ive ran it through the photon file validator too. But I doubt that 6 base layers will be enough to hold this to my plate with it being almost 1700 layers. Are there any suggestions? Link for reference.

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