Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

do it in chitubox, save it as an STL and load it into photon software

Yeah chitubox is way better, and if you have the newest firmware upgrade it will even read files sliced in chirubox so you don't have to even use photon software

This is a recipe for disaster, you'll end up with a whole bunch of artifacts. Meshmixer -> photon slicer works or just use chitubox to slice as well.

I use 3d Builder for making things sacred (holy) It goes through places where I've had issues getting Chitubox to do so.

I've just used Chitubox, I'm printing my second hollow print ever, so I'm not the best judge yet. The first one came out just fine though

Meshmixer for sure. Chitubox sucks for hollowing

if your mesh is of good quality and water tight chitubox will hollow just fine

Thanks, I'm trying chitubox for my next print.

Is that some nebulon b and lancer frigates

Yes

I can't name any offhand, but I believe so. I'm having the same problem with the brittle nature, with Warhammer and Battletech miniatures

Try soaking in hot water after cleaning but before curing then remove the supports and then cure

If you do that, can you handle them without gloves, or do you need gloves until they are cured?

Steve Landers I would recommend using gloves until cured

Steve Landers I still wear gloves until they are fully cured to be safe

And chitubox I think has easier to remove supports

Consider mixing in some flex resin.

Elegoo abs-like has yielded great results for me. I print 28mm miniatures and the elegoo stuff has a good amount of flex to it.

Steve Landers You can handle them without gloves: the part has already been “cured” by your printer...the “post-cure” as it’s properly called, enhances final properties of the resin, like hardness and tensile strength.

Syria Blu is a good choice. you can mix it with some other resins too to make them more durable.

Thanks for all of the help! I am having a lot of fun with this thing!

if you want reasonably priced resin with flexible properties. try Hero resin... https://www.3dresinsolutions.com/

Any resin is less brittle than anycubic green.

I've swapped to Elgoo Grey. Similar/better price, better durability, and way less fumes.

I've been wondering why everyone goes with green resin? Is it easir to paint? Cheaper? Or does it just come with some printers?

I would remove all the support and sand it before curing with UV

Douglas Parkinson with anycubic gray, i mix 15% flex100 to make it less brittle.

Stephen Hill that’s what is use and it’s been great.

How small did you print that? The resolution looks really low.

i use elegoo abs like translusent resin, and it's not brittle at all (i can even bend the arms of my minis, when they fall they don't break) plus it's gorgeous if i want to keep it no painted ;)

Harley Swanson it came with my printer

I can recommend buying monocure flex 100, a liter will last you almost forever, you mix it with the existing resin you have. You don't use it neat so to speak. I have tried it with delicate prints that you know will break or snap if handled in the wron g way and it is fantastic. You can have a look here to see what its about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_orRlIUU9s and purchase from here https://monocure3d.com.au/ the product is Australian made so for the Aussies out there buy local. His prices on his resin are more than reasonable. I buy whenever he has specials going which are all the time. I buy and use his clear and white, generally the clear and tint them if I need another colour which is rare as I undercoat and paint nearly all of my models.

Harley Swanson I love it, very easy to get good settings and details. Used half a bottle of clear and couldnt get a good print

Highly reccomend elegoo ABS like resin. my grey prints can be dropped on laminate flooring and bounce no problem - not on purpose mind you :(

Nikola Pijanac What are your settings, please? 15 s layer?

60 bottom . 9 secs the rest using clear resin.

cant add multiple at once so here goes

next

one more to go

Last one, this has worked well for me, you will need to adjust as required, even though our machines are generally the same, everything always needs a little tweaking. You need to take into consideration the resin you are using etc etc.

They are between 1 and 2 inches in length. Good details for the size.

Steve Landers ok. That makes sense at that size. I have gotten good results with a model at about 3.5” and up. The bottom is a sculpted model at about 1/2256 scale.

I am using them for somewhat mass fleets with a slightly sliding scale. The Star Destroyers are 1:10000, and my smaller stuff is about 1:5000. If you don't scale a bit Corellian Corvettes are tiny and fighters are dots...

the detail can be much better

I leave the Z lift etc well alone, got the same settings as you and no problems.

oops, entered too soon, I'd check exposure settings or supports.

To be able to give any advice about exposure, the group would need to know which resin you are using and which printer model (Original, zero, S etc)

Please also post a screenshot of the slicer showing what you are trying to print, so we can see orientation and support placement.

I assume you are using the same resin as for the successful test cube(?)

I am using the Anycubic translucent green.

Here is a full screen shot of the print

Steve Landers What exactly sticks to the fep? The base stays on the plate or is it torn of? Try angling the print, you don't want large horizontal areas to print at once especially straight from the supports.

I don't get anything sticking to the plate. I just realized that on that screenshot it shows bottom exposure of 90, but that was a setting I was just going to try out. It was 50 before that. I will try and angle the print a bit.

If the base doesn't stick to the plate then it's likely underexposure of the base, improperly set offset to the fep, bad level, or improperly mixed resin.

I am trying another print right now using longer exposure times.

Good report. I increased the print time for the first layers, and it is working now!

The only way I can think of is to cure the resin on them, then crack it off

Risky and each use increases the potential for failure , but unless they are thoroughly cleaned they'll just get sticky over a few uses even if you cure them (which degrades the gloves). Carefully removing them and laying them spread out so they don't stick together is probably the best bet to reuse.

I take them off by pulling one finger at a time. If you do it carefully and put them on carefully, then you can reuse them. I have also been reusing filter funnels for the same color resin

No but I wait till I’ve got a day or so of prints pile up before cleaning them

Would you wash and reuse rubber "gloves" used on other appendages?

I just pull the parts out with my mouth. No gloves needed.

I use mine several times, generally until there's a failure of some kind.

Greg Keddy should wash them, acrylate monomers can penetrate gloves in just a few minutes so if you take them off with resin on them and put them back on 10 minutes later you'll potentially be exposed

Stefan Giudici I did not know that

I have a set of heavy-duty gloves that I use when working around the printer like refilling the printer and such. I only use nitrile gloves when I'm actually removing prints from the build plate and doing post processing. It cuts down some how many gloves I'm using.

Who uses gloves? Just wash your hands in metho when you're done.

When I actually use gloves I've always reused them...

Cleaning them is easy, ipa then soapy water, take them off and let them dry. Make sure you ALWAYS put them back on the same way though, don't want to be turning them inside out.

I have like 200 nitrile gloves I'll be okay

I just bought another box at the paint store. They seemed to have plenty a week ago.

I gave them to our local hospital along with my IPA.

Yes, after I use them I while them down then put them under UV, either sun or lamp for a few seconds

I don't wear gloves and just wash my hands before touching anything else. My skin isn't bothered by resin in the slightest. Maybe that's really stupid but I've been doing this for months and haven't seen any negative affects. To avoid purchasing the p lastic disposable measuring cups/paper funnel strainers (I saw right away how that would add up) I got myself a nice set of smaller plastic funnels I can wash and rinse with alcohol, a set of plastic beakers with mL markings, a set of 8 droppers each with mL markings and a metal strainer used for a kitchen sink that I can wash out and reuse I love not worrying about disposable supplies and those things should still be available in stores that are open right now. The strainer is especially nice because it fits really well into the biggest funnel I use for draining when I know the resin will fit in the bottle and I don't need to hold it with my off hand and can stabilize the bottle.

Some laugh, but in developing countries, they often wash and re-use gloves in hospitals. There have been efforts to help, but when those resources dry up...

Nitrile gloves can be cleaned with alcohol based cleaners, you can even use hand sanitizer. Wipe them off, then clean them with alcohol if you want to reuse.

Yeah... Don't do this. The resin can absorb into your skin and harden in uv light over time. You wouldn't notice anything until your fingers begin to loose felling.

Jason Dickson I feel like the stakes are a lot lower in the case of reusing gloves for 3D printing ?

I dunno but I’ve been turning the condom inside out when she asks for round 2, I’m good right?

Nope. They're really only good for short term protection anyway and break down quickly when exposed to resin and cleaners. If I don't have fresh gloves I'm not printing - I can wait a couple weeks. Printing isn't worth risking my health or ability to print in future due to being sensitized to the resin.

as long as you use the back door, sure ?

use marigolds. they work great and are reusable

Josh Berkley I don’t know about the “resin absorbing into your skin and hardening over time,” but it can cause irritation and linger on your hands even after washing, which can then get into your system via eyes/nose/mouth. There have also been some cl aims that link resin exposure to increased cancer rates, but as to how valid those are I can’t say. Generally, the long term effects of exposure haven’t really been studied fully since we haven’t had the ability to print with these types of resin for that long. Wear gloves if you can, just to be safe; but I wouldn’t freak out if you have to handle prints without them for a while.

^^This

dollar store kitchen gloves last months at a time...

Bad idea. Resin and ipa/cleaners break down the gloves. There is no substitution for effective PPE. It's disposeable for a good reason.
How do so many commenters here not know this? Concerning..

Ryan Tudor this is theory vs experience. I do wash and reuse my gloves with no problem for at least 10 times... and not only because of shortage, as I do this since years.

Just bought 2000. I’ll be fine.

I use Nitrile Rubber Gauntlets

I use Nitrite gloves just put the to the side, I have area designated to work on my non cured models and I just threat the whole area as "contaminated" the whole point of the gloves is that the resin does not get on your hands, so does not matter if th ey are dirty on outside, just make sure you take them off properly and do not put them on inside out :D They usually last for quite long time as I don't really soak them in resin ... just handle the prints and I try to be as clean about it as I can. Just give them quick rub with IPA once you done the same way you would wash your hands. And them obviously put them in area that is "contaminated" and you know about it. As long as there are no holes in them you good to reuse them.

Your comment makes alot more sense if you replace the word experience with freugal.

And yes most regioursly tested science is only theoretical

Ryan Tudor with your vast well of knowledge, how long does it take for ipa to break down nitrile rubber?

Get re useable gloves

At the moment I only print the most necessary so as not to waste unnecessary material that could possibly be used for other purposes.

Derek Reihe Ipa doesn't really interfere with gloves as far as I know, so it would take a long while. With that said used ipa will have traces of uncured resin in it so that becomes a factor for me.
Here is a link that has a spreadsheet of glove materials and their reactions to all kinds of substances.
https://glovesbyweb.com/....../gloves-chemical......

Ryan Tudor so how long do traces of uncured resin take to break down nitrile rubber?

I'm curious where we got from this: to "doesn't really interfere with gloves"

I'm just not printing at all because if making resin baubles is more important than people's access to medical supplies to you, I think you're selfish as hell point blank.

Derek Reihe if your asking questions not for the answer but to make a point, than why don't you make it already.

My point is this: don't reuse gloves because you're putting yourself at risk.

Derek Reihe furthermore, encouraging new printers to take on half measures when it comes to their own personal safety is irresponsible

I'm just looking for how you got from "resin and IPA/cleaners break down the gloves" to "resin and IPA does not break down gloves in the slightest but you shouldn't do it anyway"

were you lying to make the concern/attention gained greater than it is in reality?

Derek Reihe maybe re-read, I don't think I contradicted my statlement at all. I'm all ears if you have a different workflow on this topic? if you're just being passive agressive than I'm sorry for my role in it, and I'll not be participating. if what i said strikes you as a personal affront or something just know that my only motives here are to set an example of good safety measures. I feel they should be respected at all times, and not exclusively when it's convenient.

Scott Pavlich good point! I do the same thing

I was lying then but I'm surely not lying now, trust me

First statement true, assuming we all use our ipa more than once. But you've made your shallow point I suppose

I have a nitrile glove that I peel off carefully and keep by the printer.
I've been using it for a couple of weeks, it works fine.

so again, how long does it take for IPA to break down a nitrile glove then

I use marigolds and wash them after and reuse them

Nope. Use and toss.

Dylan Hancox we got the African variety. Will they work?

I always reuse gloves, a pair of nitrile ones are good for a month or so.

I have a thick set I use for removing prints and cleaning. I just wash them like I was washing my hands in alcohol now and then but mostly I don't bother.

I don't bother with disposables unless it is something delicate or will need a lot of handling.

Study of the effectiveness of various glove types at protecting from monomers found in resins. All gloves were permeable to the smallest monomers (molecular resin building blocks) within 2 hours. Nitrile gloves were closer to 5-10 minutes. I admit that I only read the summary, so I may have missed something important from the body

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12974690/

this... I use my gloves until they get resin on them, after that it's 2-3 minutes at most before I change them

Sam Applegarth everything causes cancer. And it's not hard to wash it off? I use hand sanitizer first due to its alcohol content then regular soap and water. Trust me I've tasted it before after eating/drinking things I've touched much later. I know when it's still there. Not claiming to be safe just saying what I do

Derek Reihe dude, give it up. He self corrected by saying the dissolved resin in the IPA can be the issue.

he already did that, and then caterwauled instead of explain how long resin takes to dissolve gloves

il covid19 è un virus che attacca le vie aeree (naso, bocca e occhi): i guanti sono praticamente inutili. per proteggersi le mani è sufficiente lavarsele spesso per almeno 30-40 secondi e pulirle con gel a base alcolica.

Devin Wallace Simonsen This, man. This. I don't get the people that reuse nitrile gloves. They're so unbelievably dirt cheap. And even now, you can still get them fairly fast. To reuse and put yourself at a safety risk is insane...lol.

Hmm.. good to know. I only really contact the resin for a few seconds at a time though, before the first wash at least (I drop models from the build plate right into the rinse container). So the gloves are mainly for accidents. They do touch the model when it comes out of the rinse for longer, but hopefully most resin is off by then. I'll pay more attention now though. I'd just use lots of gloves, but seems they are needed for more important stuff currently?

To be honest I did have opportunity to test it. I had by accident left glove in small pool of resin for over 16h. After that I wated to chec how damaged glove was. I cleaned glove in ultrasonic cleaner. It was harder in the point of contact, but not to the point when I would breake at norma sage just less elastic. I also tested and it was tight no air or water was able to penetrate it.

Yikes. That's an interesting experiment. Just be mindful what you expose yourself to for hobby/science. Too much resin exposure can cause alergic dermititis.

You could use heavy dishwashing gloves but you lose a lot of feel.

picking up gloves with dirty hands contaminates the whole box of gloves when talking virus and similar... it's not better than nothing, it's a false sense of security

diffusion would still mean resin would penetrate

wow. I did not know that the nitrile ones were permeable to resin too. Time to use and toss!

Devin Wallace Simonsen try the chemical resistant ones.

I've got two boxes of 200. I'd have donated some, but we opened both boxes already and the hospital didn't want them if they were opened.

coi guanti, o senza, si rischia sempre di contaminarsi le mani: l'importante è non portarle a naso, bocca o occhi !

automotive gloves, much heavier duty, intended for changing transmission fluids and break fluids and other unfriendly stuff. try an auto parts store, kind of expensive

the other end is food grade celophane, water resistant, maybe not the best for anything but water soluble resin work, but theire cheap

Just put some alcohol on gloved hands and rub together like washing hands, remove and dry

I have around 5 boxes of 5mil gloves (caught them on sale at Harbor Frieght) and one box of 7 mil gloves (the aforementioned heavy duty mechanic ones). I haven't gotten to trying to reuse yet, but if this drags on a few more months I might have to.

If you want to play it safe lower the plate all the way and then add resin. Then you're guaranteed to not spill. Otherwise just add as much as you think you need that looks like it won't overflow once the plate is in.

I pour mine to the bevel about 1/2" or less up from the FEP....I print minis so this method works well for me, I always use less resin than that.

Thanks for the help! ?

Just as an FYI the official blurb states it takes 70ml. Not tried it but I reckon that's close to Flood Alert . . .

Lower your build platform to the bottom of the Vat you can fill it to within a few mm's of the brim. Resin getting on top of the build platform will not damage your printer in any way it just makes it a little more messy when you want to clean it.