Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

I've had the same question, I changed my FEP for the first time and did it after the instructions on the packaging..after that I saw a video from anycubic where they put a PET bottle capunder it before tightening. I did without the cap and it is just a bit tighter and I havent had any print fails, so I guess its fine

Marcel Hansen yeah, i use the cap method is well.. But it provides no answer as to where exactly i stop tightening the screws..

Sure, they say the iron ring needs to be lower than the border, but some of the screws still feel kinda loose when I get that far, so i tighten them a bit more.. Which may be too much, i don't know.

the only thing I noticed is that the Plopp sound is just a bit more quieter, so far I only had succesful prints so I guess I did it correctly

~300Hz, give or take. I use the “Spectrum” tuning app

Alastair Graham okay, mine is definitely too tight then, i got 400 ?

It's printing currently, we'll see how it comes out but i'll be loosening it a bit

Use a bottle cap and ignore it.

Richard Humble i do use one, but it doesn't affect the final tension when tightening the plate to the vat..

Lorenz Nijs do it up until the bolts stop. As per the instructions. The FEP stretches anyway (see your old FEP) so it's a waste of time.

Richard Humble alright, thanks

Lorenz Nijs I just use the bottle cap and tighten the screws till they stop, then a little (1/8th?) more so they won’t come loose from vibration. Remember that vat is Aluminum, the vat Threads will Fall before the steel screws. The ‘cap’ provides enoug h slack for the FEP to tighten when you’re screwing the frame to the vat. I don’t know anything about ‘tuning’ it like a drum, but it should sound like a Remo drum when done.

Dale Storer yeah, that's pretty much how mine sounds. Print is doing okay so far so i think i'm good. And if it fails it won't be from the fep being too tight at this point.

350Hz is 'round about' the pitch. A little higher and a little lower won't make a significant difference. But too much higher and you may tear things more easily. Too much lower and it won't be tight enough.

https://youtu.be/DLi3chV43LQ

It seems like a lot of people here are getting success with only the bottle cap.

One thought I've had about the smaller vat of the Photon Zero. A smaller vat, similar to a smaller drum, should have a different frequency when tuned correctly.

problem with tuning is that the FEP stretches, look at an old FEP -its baggy.

Used the bottle cap and a spectrum analyzer. Prints come out fine again.

yeah, I went that route in the end as well. I'd rather stick to something that's measurable for a starting point than to just fasten it nilly willy.

Might not be needed, but it just makes me feel safer and that's worth it.

Engineer by training. Know that feeling.

Thomas Holm chartered engineer here... I use the bottle cap and no tuning as the FEP stretches so your tune is lost almost immediately.

Fine for >1 year and probably about a dozen FEP changes.

Richard Humble it's not necessarily about keeping the tune anyways, it's about knowing that if you reach a certain tune you've got it tightened good enough.

I don't care if it loses the tune after one print, I just want to know I'm safe when I start.

Lorenz Nijs what is your start position defined by though? The bottle cap gives a good enough start in my experience.

I've yet to see someone explain how FEP tension makes any real difference. It will function on a huge range of frequencies.

Richard Humble come on man, is it that hard to understand some people just want to have something quantifiable to go off of instead of just doing something random?

Besides, the bottle cap doesn't have any effect on final tightness once you secure the ring to the vat, so I don't know why you bring it up? In no way does the bottle cap dictate how tight I turn the screws (and how tight the fep gets) once I attach the ring to the vat, so...