Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Yeah you can check, I would make sure that the printer has a low UV exposure from outside sources when you do, just to prevent anything from curing,but I check all of the time. (Make sure you pause it though) Also, check this website out.

I would say your prin t could not be sticking to the plate because of several things, like not enough bottom later exposure, it could be too cold in the room you're printing in, and more in the guide below. But I would say a lot of people always resort to leveling the build plate, and I always did that when a print wouldn't stick, till I found out it was my exposure settings and it being too cold in the room I was printing in

https://www.prusa3d.com/3d-print-quality....../

I would NOT OPEN the case while printing. The UV light can damage your eyes.

Wait 10-15 mins pause, and take a peek. The plate rises up during a pause and you can see if it’s adhering to the build plate and supports are starting to form...even if it leaves a line in your print if you do it early it’ll be in the supports and not the print

If the build doesn't stick to the plate, make sure you empty your vat through a filter and remove any cured resin from the FEP sheet before trying again. Typically, you can just wait for several minutes for some progress to be made and then pause the p rint and the plate should lift high enough for you to observer the results. You -could- open the door during a print, but it's ill advised because you can cause layer shifts and subject you to fumes or the UV lights.

If your prints are still failing after leveling, you may want to consider tuning your FEP sheet. Also, make sure your FEP sheet doesn't have a protective film on it. Good luck!

Tomek Hałon Printers are 405nm...not actually even true UV in that part of the spectrum. You are getting way stronger UV outside on a sunny day than you would from the printer. It’s not recommended you stare at the light for extended periods but opening it or running tests on the light isn’t going to damage otherwise heathy eyes.

Also there should be a layer of resin between your eyes and the uv source. Otherwise you're doing something very wrong ?

It's generally worth posting your settings (exposure times etc) as well as details of the resin you are using, the model of printer (zero, S, original etc.) and a screenshot of what you are printing.

In the case of the test cube, settings are already fixed in the file, which means it may only work with certain resins. Are you using transparent green Anycubic resin supplied with the printer, or something else?

Niall Forrester the printer didn't come with any resin. But i got the anycubic EC UV resin (clear)
It didn't adhere again so I am going to check my exposure times and I'll post all that next time.
It also may be a tad chilly in ym house. So I may nee d to wait to print. We had a gas leak and they fixed it but cut the gas off and because of the covid 19 stuff they aren't sending techs to people'a houses anymore ?‍♀️ so we have no heat. It's not particularly cold out but it could be just a tad chilly in here.
I have sooo much to learn!

Andrew Mills i did clean everything between the last print and this one. I paused the print and checked as some have mentioned and it didn't stick again so I will have to clean it all up again because there is a lot of junk in the vat now.

Logan Lees thank you! I will check out this link for possible fixes. It didn't stick again. It could be a little chilly in here. I think the culprit could very well be the exposure time especially on the first layer. I'll fiddle with it. But now to clean this vat out of all the crud ?‍♀️

Arianne Aucoin I would say at least like 5-8 bottom layers as well :)

Damn that’s clever,.

Philip J Newman You kinda get like that when you’ve been printing for 25 years! ? ? ?

Arianne Aucoin Exposure time is definitely worth a look then, and room temperature can have an effect too.

Did you give the resin a good swirl before pouring it in, to make sure it mixed well?

If you end up getting recommendations from others regarding exposure times, check which Photon they have. The S model and the newer version 'fauxton' may need shorter exposure times than the original Photon, for any particular resin.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_wtZqBfbQ At around 12:00 they get into tuning your FEP. Basically adjusting the tightness, because if it's not tight enough, the build will stick harder to the FEP and pull it off the plate.

Niall Forrester this is the one we have. I am a complete novice. I had mentioned in passing that having a 3d printer would be cool and then lo and behold I was gifted one lol so I had done zero research before now.
But I've been thrown in the deep en d so I need to learn! I do think the exposure time especially for the first layer wasn't ling enough. Though the bottle says 20-80 seconds. It was at 50 i think. So i'll crank that up a bit.
I also just realized I forgot to add supports sooo there's also that ? ? ? ?‍♀️ but that being said nothing adhered to the plate at all so that's still a problem.
This will surely take some time!

Excellent thank you

If you check the firmware version, it should be possible to see for sure which version it is, but looking just from my phone it could be an original model.

Not sure which test model you are doing, but if it is the lattice cube, it is designed to prin t with no extra supports. Typically you get a ready-sliced file with the exposure times fixed in it, which is why it may not work well with other resins. However, I do not know exactly which file types are supplied with different models of Photon etc.

Sorry if I am telling you stuff you already know: Typically, when doing your own prints you will take a 3d file (e.g. .STL) that cannot be read directly by the printer and then run it through a slicer program (the included Photon Workshop, Chitubox etc.) which turns it into a format the printer can read (.photon, .photons and others). The slicer divides it up into individual layers, but also includes the instructions for exposure time etc.

The test cube is a bit different: with my printer at least, the included test cube file was pre-sliced, with settings that work for Anycubic Green resin.

Does the bottle specify exposure times for base layers and normal layers separately, btw?

Niall Forrester thank you. And no worries i literally know nothing.
The bottle said base layer 20-80 secs and then regular layers i think 5-8 secs.
Can't remember all the exposure times on the file but base i think was 50 so seemed long enough but I may crank it up next time.
It is anycubic resin just not the normal green. It is clear, eco resin.

There are some special calibration/exposure range finder prints you can do to help find optimal exposure times, worth a look. Which one to use depends on the printer model.

You will see differences in exposure times even between different colour resin s from the same vendor. And 50 secs is a fairly average base layer time: worth trying higher to see if it helps.

Levelling and FEP tension are also potential issues that could give these symptoms, although I am not convinced personally that they are as often to blame for failures as one might believe from comment threads in here.

I appreciate your help. Sounds like it'll be some trial and error for a bit. I will keep all of this advice in mind.

Jacob Palmer lmao that's what I was thinking haha

Is this the resin?

If so here are my settings.

James Forder Which version of the printer?

standard photon, same as the one the op posted

James Forder Were you seeing failures with lower base layer exposures?

110s is quite high, if 8s works well for normal layers.

Two things that I needed to do to make mine stick: (1) When doing the bed leveling with the piece of paper, the paper should be tight enough that it pulls out with a bit of effort, and bends if you try to push it back in. (2) Make sure your exposure times are long enough for the resin you are using. Mine were way too short. Here's a spread sheet that really helps: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j......

James Forder yes thank you!

No but I tried 80 and had a couple of prints that started to peel at the edges and could be pulled off the build plate. I've not had a single failure since bumping it up to 110.

Look up Flint Reid leveling on you tube if you haven't already tried it. I never have problems with prints sticking since I started using this method.

Vincent Clayton oh thank you will definitely do

Free help for photon s
https://courses.mojomojo.design/....../3d-resin......

It’s probably the leveling. I struggled with this when I first started. Someone gave me this link for a leveling video. I did it that way and haven’t had a failed print since. https://github.com/....../anycubic....../blob/master/FAQ.md

Did you get it working in the end?

Niall Forrester i did get a couple decent prints to stick. But each had their own issues. On one the supports failed right at the end. It's like they just stopped so the top of the print just sort of fell apart and the next there was a gap in the middle of it. Like a weird hollow spot. But at least I got adhesion so I'm headed in the right direction. Thank you so much@