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So I decided to play with my exposure settings a bit, and came up with some interesting results.I'm not trying to persuade anyone of anything here, and I feel obliged to point out that this is only done with one resin, and there are other factors (cleaning, post-curing etc.) that can have had some impact to., so my conclusions may not necessarily be relevant to everyone.

Anyhoo, the things that stood out most to me were:

1) This resin works pretty well across the range of exposure times, it is not 'that' sensitive.

2) 0.02mm layers actually gave slightly worse detail than 0.05mm layers, for this combination of resin, model etc.

3) I feel that 9s exposure for 0.05mm was best, compared to 8s at 0.02mm layers - i.e. very little difference. I didn't try 0.02 at 9s, but maybe that would have been better than 8s

4) In order to get some small positive details to show up (the spikes on the top), I had to choose settings that over-exposed other parts of the model. So there is no 'perfect' exposure time.

I have attached a few photos showing comparisons, for anyone who is interested. The STL is the Ameralabs calibration town (I'll put in a link), and the resin is PrimaCreator Value Grey. I printed 4 of these at a time to ensure the variations were not too random. My apologies for the slightly fuzzy picturees in some cases (the details are small and I cannot find my macro adapter, plus I was too lazy to go back and repeat photos of the worst ones ;o)

This first photo shows the difference between prints at 0.05mm ranging from 8s to 12s exposure time. I have previously been using 12s as my standard time for this resin at this layer height and have been happy with the results, but I am going to drop to 9s from now.

所以我決定玩一下我的曝光設定, 並產生了一些有趣的結果. 我沒有試圖說服任何人, 我不得不指出, 這只是用一種樹脂完成, 還有其他因素(清潔, 治癒後治療等)可以產生一些影響., 所以我的結論不一定與每個人相關.

不管怎樣, 我最突出的是:

1)這種樹脂在曝光時間範圍內運作良好, 並不是"那麼敏感.

2) 0.02 mm層實際上給出的細節比0.05 mm層稍微差一些, 對於這種樹脂, 模型等組合.

3)我覺得9秒曝光最好, 而0.02毫米層的8 s曝光最好也就是說差別很小. 我在9年代沒有嘗試過0.02, 但也許那會比8年代更好

4)為了獲得一些微小正面細節出現(頂部的尖峰, 我不得不選擇模特其他部分曝光的設定. 所以沒有"完美"曝光時間.

我附上了幾張比較的照片, 給有興趣的人. Stl是ameralabs校准鎮(我會放入連結), 樹脂是原始的價值灰色. 我一次列印了4個, 以確保變化不會太隨機. 我對有些情況下有點模糊的照片道歉(細節很小, 我找不到我的宏觀介面卡, 而且我太懶惰, 無法回去重復最糟糕的照片 ;o)

這張第一張照片顯示的是0.05毫米的指紋之間的差別, 從8秒到12秒之間. 我以前一直在這層高度使用12 s作為標準時間, 對結果感到滿意, 但從現在開始下降到9 s.

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OK - A sanity check:

Should it not be the case that the optimal number of 'base' layers ought to vary with the layer height used?

For example, 10 base layers at 0.05mm will give a harder bottom section of 0.5mm thickness whereas the same 10 layers at 0.02mm layer height will give only 0.2mm obviously

Other than the additional grip to the base plate (which is presumably only relevant for the very first layer), I guess the other base layers are giving a bit of extra stiffness at the 'bottom' of the print to help it stay in place on the plate rather than peeling off.

Would it not, therefore, make sense to use more base layers for smaller layer heights, or am I missing something here? Anyone have any experience related to this? I currently use the same number (8-10) regardless of whether I am printing at 0.05 or 0.02, but maybe this just means I am using more than necessary at 0.0.5 layer height...

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Looking for some advice from the experts: having problems with random reboots after first layer is printed..

This is on an original Photon. I have seen the problem a few times before, but recently it is happening >50% of the time I start a print. Basically the print starts as normal, the plate goes down to z=0 and the layer is exposed for the appropriate time (say 80 or 100s). Next the plate either raises slightly or not at all, the printer stops for a few seconds (blank display) then reboots back to the start screen. There is no way to continue the print The first layer has printed fine and is stuck nicely to the plate.
I have done a fair bit of fault-finding. Some observations: It happens with different models. It does not seem to be a corrupt file as it will sometimes work on the second or third attempt with the same file. Have tried three or four different USB sticks. Same problem regardless When the print gets past the first two or three layers, it usually seems to succeed. I have otherwise had very successful prints with nice detail and I am not seeing any problems with levelling etc. I typically do not re-level beween prints, but I have tried doing so and it does not seem to make any difference to this issue. Problem is seen with both 0.02 and 0.05 layer heights.
This weekend, I decided to throw everything at it, and did the following: Updated firmware to 4.2.18 Replaced power brick with a good quality one (from RS online) rated at 12V, 7A Replaced internal USB extension cable (also RS online) Bought new Sandisk USB drive (16Gb), newly formatted with FAT32 Cleaned and carefully lubricated Z-rod with lithium grease. I started a print with a plate full of small parts and it failed as described above. Without changing anything (not even removing USB from slot, or even removing the cured resin from the printer), I started the print again. It failed a second time. As the layers are only 0.02mm, I figured I could get away with one more attempt without removing the cured resin, so again, I restarted the same file on the same USB without changing anything. The first seven or eight layer have gone fine, I could hear the click of the print pulling off the FEP and I hope it is still running. I have done something similar once before and had a perfect print on the second or third attempt. Having worked with fault-finding various machines for most of my working life, I have learned that 'gut-feelings' cannot really be trusted. Having said that, this feels a bit like something is happening when the motor is under most strain (a fair proportion of the plate is covered in support bases, and the cure time is of course extended for the first layers). Considering the things I have already replaced, there isn't much left to try: maybe I can look at reducing the bottom layer times. Otherwise I am worried the problem is with the mainboard (or the motor/driver?)
Any suggestions? 翻譯年糕

A bit of inspiration for you all (and a bit of shameless self-congratulation for me): thought you might enjoy my print of the Curiosity Mars rover.

The majority of the rover is printed on my Photon (not the base, which is scratch-built). I added some cabling details with lead wires, thinner struts with copper wire and a few bits of styrene, but otherwise it's all printed parts - dozens of them.

It's painted with Vallejo acrylics and weathered with some pigments to make it look dusty. All held together with CA glue.

Yesterday I entered it in the theme category of a model competition (C4-Open in Malmö, theme category this year was 'Space') and it got me the gold :o )

[Edited to add less blurry photo]

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Thought someone might enjoy my latest prints: a bunch of details for a Mars rover model I am working on. I think this is approaching the limits of the printer - I am finding it difficult to place supports that are strong enough, but don't destroy all the detail when removed. Clean up done with a scalpel and a microscope.

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Got inspired by a show on Adam Savage's 'Tested' YouTube channel a few weeks ago. Printed in 6 peices at 0.02 with PrimaCreator grey resin. Quite pleased with the result, although I think I could do a better job a second time round. Spent a fair bit of time polishing the surfaces before painting.

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Well, I didn't want to feel left out of all the fun, so here is my Banana Knight to add to the selection...

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I am wishing there was something like Heroforge for realistic military (and civilian) figures that would work to print at 1/48 and 1/35 scale.

Instead of Races, you would have periods of history and nationalities (to group the clothes and equipment, not for the faces/bodies). You could then select items of uniform / kit, weapons or tools etc. Being able to pose figures would be a big boon when planning dioramas and vignettes. And having a wider selection of figures for less common periods of history (and also civilians) would be fantastic if that was included.

Anyone know of anything even vaguely like this? Or if you want to take my idea and make this website yourself, please go ahead (just give me a free lifetime pass ? ). Actually, I am sure I am not the first to think of it.

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Anyone care to give an opinion on what settings I should be using? This is the resin-test-50u.B100.2-20 XP finder. Resin is Prima Creator Value Light Grey

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