Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Looking into the new slicer gave me the creeps, security-wise. Gonna pass on this one.

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Hi everyone, I'm thinking about purchasing the anycubic photon as my first 3D printer to use in my current business of making jewelry. However, the website does not list any castable resins. Does anyone here use this printer for making fine jewelery, and if so what resin or process do you use to do so?

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Hi All,

Should I heat the resinaway in my ultrasonic tank ?

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Question to you guys about updating firmware. I still have the original firmware and haven't had an issue yet. The going opinion was to not update it EVER unless there was some absolutely necessary reason to.

With some printers and software like cura, you have to update the firmware if you upgrade the slicer to a newer version.. otherwise things won't work properly. I haven't updated my slicer from 1.3.3 to the latest 1.3.6.

Just wondering if I am ok to do that with the original firmware without creating any issues for myself. Thanks.

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Hey guys, quick question about File Validator. Has anyone done a successful print without using file validator, then ran that .photon file through validator after and found it was riddled with unsupported islands?

I just ran my first print that went perfectly through it and found that to be the case and it confused me.

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Hello Group ?
Does anybody use a 3D Scanner ?
And when yes which one?

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Spiral stair for scale model Yacht.
Height 45 mm. Center shaft diameter 2 mm, step thickness 1.4 mm, surface adhesion shaft - steps 0.5 mm

Material: Anycubic Resin White 405 nm
Layer thickness: 0.05
Normal Exposure: 16 s
Off Time: 2 s
Bottom Exposure Time: 60 s
Bottom Layers: 8
Ambient Temperature: 22 C°

Scala a chiocciola per modello in scala di yacht. Altezza 45 mm. Diametro albero centrale 2 mm, spessore gradini 1,4 mm, superficie di adesione albero - gradini 0,5 mm
# 3dprinting # photon # anycubic

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going through my messages, heaps of "XXX wants to connect" messages about fixing the stepper coupler/mount eccentricity. I simply dont have time as I have many many messages from girls in my neighbourhood that want to connect with me and will show me "bobs and vagene" for just my credit card details.. priorities..

1. you probably don't need to do this, its more likely you have not leveled properly or your FEP is loose. you will know you need to do this, if no matter how much lube you add you have a persistent, regular grinding noise from machine even after tightening/loosening the travel chuck and/or you can visible see eccentric motion at the bottom of the lead screw.

2. To find out if you need to do this, buy a dial gauge, any CNC supplier, I have a few, I used the magnetic mount one and ran it against my lead screw, even for experienced machinists taking a reading from a lead screw is tricky because , well, its not a cylinder, its a screw. If you spent enough on your dial gauge (costs more than the photon), you can read max and min deviation from the edges of the rail.

3. If you are cheap (you bought a photon, the cheapest printer you could find, you ARE cheap, you pick flowers from the neighbors yard instead of buying for your wife, and you are reading this from a linux computer..), then you can simply rest a block against the lead screw and see if the block moves at all while turning the lead screw.

4. If you have eccentric motion, then, and ONLY then, remove the stepper and its coupler (the thingomajoozit that mounts the stepper to the photon. cover your screen, use a spindle (drillamajoozit) to open the holes in the photon by an additional 0.1mm (deviation was ~70um in mine) and remount loosely. hand tighten the bolts allowing some slip. spin the lead screw by software with your measuring tool in place. use a light object (i used the back of a kitchen knife) to tap left/right or front/back as required, until you have sub 10um deviation (read point about how hard it is to read deviation on a lead screw)

5. lock down screws another 1/4 turn, repeat point 4, most likely you moved it while tightening.. rinse repeat, then lock it down hard.

6. Bonus info: If your lead screw has yaw/pitch compared to the rail, raid your wife's pantry for aluminium foil, for the Americans, that is pronounced A as in cat, lew as in in lieu, mi as in me, ni as in the knights that say NI!, um as in yoom. Learn to pronounce it properly, you are butchering the queens English.
Now. assuming your lead screw is not bent (mine was, took a mallet to it, whole different measurement saga, worth checking before doing anything else from here on), measure the left and right extremes of the top of the lead screw to the left and right of the rail, loosen the rail assembly or the stepper, your choice, and fold some aluminium under the opposite side of the worst error, re-tighten, remeasure, add more or less AL until you get max deviation under 50um top to bottom.

HTH.

(all the CNC guys are going "ahhhh same as tramming a 4th axis, ya, kinda. )

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New to the group but narrowing down my desk. Printer choice to either the Photon or the Moai. Leaning towards the Photon, but concerned by some of the posts about screen failures.

How common of an issue is this? How expensive is it to replace? How difficult is it to replace for a reasonably skilled hobbiest?

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