Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I can relate to your enthusiasm. ?

I think I'm addicted... I think I may have to seek professional help ;)

which grey resin did you used ?

Myrobot Stuff most was done with Elegoo grey. A few bits with Anycubic. Havent really noticed any difference.

What is that monster between the gryphon and the owl?

3D Scanning Guy Me neither, except for less odor with the Elegoo.

and one day he will get around to painting some of them. ?

My first ever Zbrush sculpt ;)

Very good

The Remus Lupin wolf is painted ;)

Badly. But it's painted lol

Nice. Where'd you get the Bubo (Clash of the Titans)?

i must admit i cant talk. my eyes are failing me these days. and annoys me to hell when i paint something and it just dont come out as good as i used to pain models. but thats what ya get from getting old. and a few years of mig welding with idiots about not using protective screens. lol.

I worked on the remake scanning something else (a coffin/sarcophagus) and got asked to scan Bubo by the SFX department. Was kind of a dream job as all those years ago the original had been my favourite movie. Ray Harryhausen was kind of my childhood idol and set me on the path to working in VFX. So the wheel had literally come full circle ?

3D Scanning Guy I assume you cannot, but are you able to share the model by chance?

Chad Elstad I'm afraid not, mate. At the end of the day it's owned by Warner Bros (and thus protected by their over-zealous lawyers) ;)

3D Scanning Guy that's what I thought, but doesn't hurt to ask. ;)

344htz?

Jose Guerra what the tone of the FEP 'drum' is tuned to. Ideally should be between 275-350hz

3D Scanning Guy thx ? ?

I find that 369Hz gives me perfect prints all the time.

Was yours really needed to be changed? I just did mine but because mine looked like the plastic from a CD case bought at a garage sale lol

It was more that there were a few scores in the plastic from a scraper, and I've done a fair few prints on it and had had the odd error, so thought what the hell? ;)

How do you tune it??

Amanda Kennedy
With an audio analyser, or tuner app. Place vat on its side, tap finger (no fingernail) centre of fep. Tighten or loosen screws (very very slightly) as necessary to get the correct tension.

Sen Kun thank you.ill give it s go ?

Hi Sen Kun how's this looking? Too tight??

3D Scanning Guy fair enough I wasn't having any issues with mine it just didn't look right and then you looked on flat surfaces you can see a slight texture from the fep, looked like plastic food wrap again like you said from the scoring from the scraper

Is that 12000 hz??

3D Scanning Guy yes it seems so. First time using this test. Newbie

The firmware is a Beta version that adds anti-aliasing function.

is there a way for you to add the old firmwares incase this makes our machine/s go nuts?

Paolo Angelo Bonafe the previous 4.2.14 is on the firmware download page

Richard Bull im using the original firmware as there is no issues on mine, 4.2.1

Paolo Angelo Bonafe just use 4.2.14 in case 4.2.17 doesn't work for you. I would think the latest stable firmware would be better than the original.

Richard Bull so does that mean youre using 4.2.17?

Paolo Angelo Bonafe no I went to the stable 4.2.14 as I had some issues with the beta

Any news of the PHOTON S AA function?

?

any results?

Did you cut it into parts, print separately and then attach? Or will this fit on the build plate as is?

Brian Butler Cut it. Place all the pieces on one build. Print it. Stick together ?

Practical? That's just plain stupid!
A) resin is toxic for your household needs
B) photon is to low powered UV to realistically use super hard resins for semi industrial needs
C) practical is boring (unless we are talking scandi minimalistic interior design furniture - and no, thats not IKEA)
D) looking at uses of resin here on the group, it's mostly artists, modelers, miniature builders, RC stuff (like me) etc.

Seriously, have an idea what your user base is doing - hint hint, it's not practical - it's mostly hobby or arts related!!!

Maybe you should start a poll to check what is your users base application area.
And use that poll to actually think about feature set for future - both hw stack, industrial design and software stack?
I think that would be a better use of time then running some daft competition

Marcin Kudzia why so angry and derogatory? plenty of people use their printers for practical parts.

I'm not angry! you do you!

However contents like that are a complete waste of time and resources - cheap PR, oh yes community engagement *epic eye roll*
Why not - instead engage with community to see what they would like in the Next Big Thing™

"That's just plain stupid!", "practical is boring", how is that not angry, demeaning and respectless of other people's work?
Also you shouldn't assume that models and miniatures are the main use for the photon just because that's so in your particular use case. Unless you've run a poll I have no idea how you could even beginn to be so convinced about this.

Dude context - yes photon and practical applications are no go? Why? Because of material properties - energy density of the lcd screen with its puney lamp means resins that have high tensile strenght are no go. The hardest available ones barely go betw een PLA or ABS. And dimensional accuracy is no go.

What else you got? Oh dental casting? Yes let's do a contest about it *eyeroll*
And yes, if you look at what people use photon for - looking at the group you can see its mostly models, miniatures etc.
Its a gateway to resin printing but if you will be a pro-consumer you will be going SLA where energy density of laser is much higher then any lcd solution.

So yeah context, anycubic practical contest is plain stupid.
And they would spend time better actually liasing with community to see how to develop the product.

Cool, now show us actually printed ones

Well, those settings won't work anyway since the S got a more powerful UV-light.

My understanding is that the format is different and not compatible, I think you'd need to generate new print files from your models.

Nope, completely different format. You'll need to re slice the .stl files

Can't you open photon file with chitubox and reslice as photons?

This is the pain we were trying to warn everyone about.

The trick is to save your supported models. That way you can arrange and interchange builds much easier. For an even hotter trick, save the entire supported bed as one file, load that file by itself and then slice, it does it much quicker if it's only one object

If you've got time and money you can order an old ChiTu-based Photon mainboard and swap.

Many thanks for your comments and ideas. Since I print tiny items and have stls for each individual piece with supports made in B9C it seems that I have to set my photons files again.

That is what I am planning to do on my future photon S, would there be any reason not to work? I had a look and only few jacks might need swapping.

On the ChiTu board like "old" Photon, you've only got USB extention adapter, the LCD flat cable, and the touchscreen Flatcable. Zmotor is standard plug, and others wires as Z stop and LED driver are easy to rewire, so it might not be complicated.
Except of couree that your warranty will be void ;)

Itd be the led driver/power that would worry be

Stefan Giudici I'm not an expert, but for me whatever the mainboard is, the power that goes to the driver is the same, and it's the driver role to adapt the power that goes to the light source. So as far as you keep your Photon S driver it should be OK. That said, I'm not an expert...

You want to use a sliced file for a different machine on your new unit? Are you crazy?

Danny Lloyd can you do that? I’ll def have to check it out

Once you've supported the file, save it. It will save it as an stl with all the supports as a single model. Then arrange your entire bed, save that as one big model, open that model by itself and slice it. It will be much quicker

Not crazy at all. Just lazy. I have hundreds of sliced files and each file consists dozen of tine items. Setting all again is a pin in the .... But as I heard from everyone there is no other option than redo all my files.

Amy Liao this is where your choice of a new firmware and board for the Photon S without a opensource firmware alternative, makes photon S a useless machine that take Anycubic back to the dark ages. And the reason why we advise anyone to buy a Epax inst ead of a S

We really advise Anycubic to stop thinking about the bottom line profits and show with actions that they really care about the users instead of thinking only about the money.

By chosing that path you deliberately cut with Backwards compatibility and with that all the awsome tools the community has made up to date, you dont have a better slicer, you dont share your firmware, the machine is plaged with the same known issues as the old machine and some new ones too . That claim that the in house development that Anycubic said was for better support does not show in the firware fixes rollout...

that along with a bad plastic case shows your true intentions diverge from the words you say. It's is not about making a better machine, its is about the money

Nice model ?? I think you might be able to print it with less supports.. ?

Yeah, overkill on supports, buddy. Sanding those pips down is gonna be a bitch.

Adam Foster it's simple actually. Tiny rub with wet n dry and they're gone. They're only light ones.

Kevin Lems Actually it did have less on the first run and there were errors from lack of support. The fingers in particular had to get changed to medium from light and an extra one halfway down the finger. Upper arm could actually do with one or two bu t they're difficult to place so *just* can get away with it. The supports come off easy. They only look excessive because the model is gangly and upright not 45 so they're really tall. They come off easy.

Adam Foster The good they're just light pips all in a row ?

Formlabs did tons of legwork regarding heated cure cycles. Their main resins are fundamentally the same as almost all 405nm curing resins. They advocate a 60 deg. cure temp for peak strength at various times depending on the resin. It increases both modulus and ultimate strength. Their white papers regarding their testing is some of the more scientifically published data out there (even at that, it isn't incredibly difficult testing. it would be nice to see more like this) https://archive-media.formlabs.com/....../How......

Wait, maybe I am confused. My understanding was you need to *print* Blu pretty warm - is that not accurate?

It looks like what are are saying is you can print at room temp, and then subsequently post-print, UV cure it warm and get those strength bonuses?

OK, now tell me where can I get some in EU ?

Joe Broggio I believe the printing heat is required to get the resin at the proper density/viscousness for the best printing state. The curing seems to be another angle to leverage for strength. I’ll end up with a heat box at some point just so I remove temperature variations from the exposure equation.

you can go for peopoly.net or amazon US

what Scott said. Heat not only helps with printing but also curing. One user has sude vide heater in his curing chamber filled with water too.