• #maker+t=market
  • COSPLAY 3D 建模
  • 3D列印服務
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3

ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » IDE

原文網址 Ng Kwang Chen
2020-03-13 10:32:33

This is tiny red move parallel gripper, perfect in making robot arm and mechanic project. This video how to make it by using 3D printing and the .stl 3D print file are free to download. Hope you guys enjoy:)

這是小小的紅色移動平行握柄, 完美製作機器人手臂和機械項目. 這個視訊如何使用3 d列印和the. Stl 3 d列印檔案免費下載. 希望你們喜歡 :)


· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

原文網址 Gbb Technics
2020-01-26 23:41:47

Hello everybody,

I would to present to you the different steps of my ATOM 2.5EX printer evolution project:

- Step 1: disassembly of internal electronics + addition of TOP LED rails for lighting (Status => 100% finished)

- Step 2: replacement of the 8-bit motherboard with a 32-bit board (Duet2 Wifi) + addition of Side LED rails for lighting (Status => 100% finished)

- Step 3: development and integration of a 7' paneldue screen on the frame with laser-cutting aluminium parts + folding (Status => 75% finished)

- Step 4: manufacture of a rear plate to integrate the antenna of the Duet2 Wifi board + addition of an inter-switch for the internal lighting of the printer (Status => 75% finished)

- Step 5.1: replacement of the original nozzle with an 24v e-3D v6 standard version + a 24v Dragon Hotend version (Status => in progress 75% finished)

- Step 5.2: developpement and integration of a PCB for rapid disassembly of the print head, it's the same principle as ATOM 2.5 FX (Status => PCB are 100% developped and PCB manufacture is 50% finished)

- Step 5.3: replacement of the 12v power supply with a 24 volt version from Meanwell. (Status => to be mounted)

- Step 5.4: installation of a 24v to 12v converter to keep the original heating bed in 12v. (Status => to be mounted)

- Step 6.0: finishing integration of the 2 DYZE Filament sentinel to be able to stop the print when wire is out.

- Step 7.0 : integration of the ATOM laser module (if possible with the Duet2 Wifi). For this last step, I'm not sure if I can connect and run the laser on the Duet Board. I need to check first...

I will give you news about my project in few days / weeks...


Samuel Chiou
2020-01-26 23:50:06


John Wachowski
2020-01-26 23:56:19

Looking good!

Charlie Ting
2020-01-27 03:20:52

Step 5.4? converter or switch power?

Gbb Technics
2020-01-27 03:42:53

Charlie Ting I will try to use a power Converter from 24 to 12v for This.

Ash Fletcher
2020-01-27 14:20:01

Wow that’s a nice up grade. I would like to do the e3d upgrade . That would make it nice to clean out the nozzle

原文網址 Tobey Tamber
2019-12-17 12:34:38

Hi all, sorry to bother you with more problems. Things printed well for a long time, then I ran into a problem. The temperature moves up to 200 and stops heating, and the print won't start. It stays at the temperature in the first picture. I tried changing Max temp (to 200, from 210) with no success. I checked the FAQ for hotend problems and that suggested pronterface. Can't connect the printer to pronterface, and get the error shown in the 2nd picture.

I cooled down, then restarted the printer. It worked once, then the next print had the same issues. Now I can't get it to print even after several restarts.

Any ideas? It's time for Christmas printing.


Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-12-17 12:47:30

That happen to me a month ago and it will get worst to a time will say

I did my research and I obviously asked Atom support. Here are the first thing to do...
1. Check connection
2. Check if “heat-disc” is damaged And check the wiring for any crimp or little cuts.
3. Check connection in board. Unplug and check if solder is damaged, even behind the board must check for damaged solder.
4. If all of above has been done and still no luck. You may need to change the thermal resistor in the cooler block or the heat disc. And wrap it some kapton tape around the cooler block to prevent heat escape.
Good luck!

Tobey Tamber
2019-12-17 13:11:35

I was touching the wires above the fans and one was very hot. When I lifted them, the temperature started to rise and it worked! It seems the wires must have been blocking the airflow, and not letting it heat the last 5 degrees
Repositioning the wires got it started!

Tobey Tamber
2019-12-17 13:11:38


2019-12-17 13:16:13

Try to use your finger to stop the back fan first.
If the temp can sucessfully reach to 210 degree C after the fan stops, please use PTFE tape to wrap the nozzle.
It can prevent the Thermistor from the fan air.

it should be able to fix the problem.

Tobey Tamber
2019-12-17 13:22:38


原文網址 Gbb Technics
2019-11-20 06:38:58


Is anyone already switch original motherboard to 32 bits motherboard with Marlin 2.0 firmware on ATOM 2.5EX ?

I would like to replace my original board by SKR V1.3 motherboard or SKR Pro v1.1.

This is a project for the moment, but I think other people have same idea...

Thanks for you answer


原文網址 Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-12 12:35:48

Need help badly.
As you can see in the video I upload, it’s been 3 minutes and the temperature doesn’t go up to 220. It looks like fluctuating.
It was printing great last night and now this.
I have change the PTFE tube inside the extruder because it has some burns mark and kinda sticky outside the tube. Test it and flowing smooth again pushing the filaments inside.
Clean any dust or anything and still the same.

正如你在我上傳的視訊中所看到的, 已經3分鐘了, 氣溫沒有上升到220., 看起來像是在波動.
昨晚印刷得很好, 現在這個.
我更換了外出器內的ptfe管, 因為它有一些燒傷痕跡和有點粘. 測試一下, 再順暢地把絲綢推進裡面.
清理任何灰塵或任何東西, 但還是一樣的.

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

ATOM 3D Printers
2019-11-12 14:26:37

Hello sir
You can e-mail to support@atom3dp.com
We will reply you as soon as possible.

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-13 21:03:09

Any support will appreciate,thank U

Birk Binnard
2019-11-13 21:52:24

That is an unusual problem for sure. It could be a bad thermistor or heater disc, or an intermittent wire connection for either of those. If it were me I'd take the hotend apart and check both of those parts. Maybe one will look bad. If both look ok I'd replace the thermistor first, and if that doesn't fix the problem then replace the heater disk. If the problem still persists check the wiring.

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-13 23:07:04

Birk Binnard will do, thanks.
I have one heat disc available if needed.

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-17 10:07:18

Actually, when I bought my Atom2.0, I also bought 2 extra set of extruder complete set.
I replace the whole extruder and see if anything change of the problem but still see the heat extruder flactuating.
This really worries me as I really don’t know what else to do.
I don’t want to touch any PID manually coz I may ruined more. Or should I do the failsafe and install the marlin again?

Birk Binnard
2019-11-17 14:13:24

The temperature reading should be steady as a rock. It should increase and decrease at a steady rate. When it has reached the temperature you specify it should not vary more than 1 or 2 degrees.

When you first turn the printer on the temp should read room temperature, because that's what it is. If that varies then you have a wiring or thermistor problem.problem. When you turn on the heater, if the temperature reading varies you may have a problem with the heater disk or it's wiring.

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-17 18:35:03

Birk Binnard
I replaced with a new ceramic disc and new thermistor, and check all connections all the way to the board.
Still doing the same problem.
Is there something else did I missed?

Yinka Alade
2019-11-18 09:04:19

You know that thin metal U shaped thing that goes into the hotend assembly? Is that in there? If not, it’ll never reach the full temp as that blocks the fan as well as holds wires in place.

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-18 09:16:17

Yinka Alade
It has on it. I even wrap the hot end of kapton tape to sealed the heat.
Recheck all connections of all wires and still the same

Yinka Alade
2019-11-18 10:00:12

hmmm, no clue then. My Atom though doesn't get 220 consistently either, but I typically print in PLA at 195

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-18 10:04:25

I can Pre heat up 200 or 240, but my settings to print is 210 degrees and it never reach just fluctuating.
Hate to garbage this machine, an expensive printer

Yinka Alade
2019-11-18 10:13:12

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino Trust, I've been having issues with this printer since I bought it 3+ years ago. I understand your frustration. It's weird that it'll preheat to that temp, but not hold that temp for a print. I assume you've already tried reinstall the firmware and all of that. That's a weird issue I haven't encountered yet and I've run into MANY with this printer.

ATOM 3D Printers
2019-11-18 10:39:08

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino Please don't feel that way, you can e-mail your question to support@atom3dp.com , our engineer will help you as soon as possible!

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-18 10:53:45

ATOM 3D Printers
I emailed you again after the first response from Atom’s support. And waiting from your kind response, thank U!

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2019-11-18 23:11:45

The problem was that my office is in the basement cold room and temperature was very cold.
My thermostat in my Atom detecting it and having hard time to adjust.
I am now printing again.
Funny thing is, my wife figure it out.

Please have this for a record for others when they have this same kind of problem

原文網址 Fabio Hasseck
2019-11-02 21:47:55

Atom 2.5 EX
Cura 4.3.0
Material: Gold PLA, Hatchbox.
Wall thickness: 0.8 mm, speed: 60 mm/s, temp: 210 degrees.
Seam corner preference: Hide.
Combing mode: All.
I Was told I should make it start each layer randomly in order to avoid that line on the print, but I can't find the proper setting, does anyone know which is it?
Does it also matter that the walls are printed before the infill?


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2019-10-08 00:04:47

Which board to replace Atom2 motherboard? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GRJH6V/?coliid=IOK5PZSZ01706&colid=1CNC7HMGS7HXU&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFFNF1L/?coliid=I2QXEX8QOG284O&colid=1CNC7HMGS7HXU&psc=1 Both look like they could do the job. First one has no stepper drivers, but I have 2 Atom2 boards I can pull the drivers from. Second one has A4988 drivers on the motherboard which seems like a better idea. BOth are a different shape from the Atom board, so I'll have to drill some new mounting holes - not a big deal. 翻譯年糕

2019-10-08 00:17:41

I’m waiting for Duet2 to upgrade my Atom2.5ex, also want to try the smart effector.

Gbb Technics
2019-11-20 06:15:06

Why not switch to 32bits motherboard ?

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2019-10-02 02:08:36

Printer has gone crazy!

This short video shows what happens when I run AutoLevel. The same things happens at the same place when I run AutoCalibrate.

I've reloaded the Ver. 2018039 firmware with no problem. And yes, I did the Load Failsfe/Store Memory after uploading.

Could I have a bad stepper motor or stepper motor driver chip? There is nothing physically wrong with the printer, at least as far as I can see.


Yinka Alade
2019-10-02 02:29:51

Is it actually the bed or no?

Yinka Alade
2019-10-02 02:30:17

It looks like it thinks the printing bed is larger than it actually is

Birk Binnard
2019-10-02 02:33:36

I've been printing on that exact same bed configuration for over a year. All of a sudden the printer seem to lose track of where Z equals 0 is. I have no idea what the problem actually is.

Yinka Alade
2019-10-02 03:27:39

Yea, no idea. I'd replace the motherboard and see what happens.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-02 04:01:07

I've had the same thought. Do you have any suggestion on which MB would be a good replacement? (Good = will run with vanilla Ta At om2 firmware.)

Cherub Shiao
2019-10-02 06:39:25

WOW really crazy @_@

If the touch sensor can work well, u may change the printing area by using smaller diameter, like 210 or 200 to c if it can work or not.

or u just change the spring on the screw of touch sensor? maybe the spring too hard for touch sensor?

Yinka Alade
2019-10-02 06:43:07

I remember at one point I was using a different board that wasn't from the Atom dudes and my prints were always just not perfect. It could have been me and my settings, but they were off. I also had to reverse some numbers in the settings to get the other board to work. At some point I bought another new Atom board and started using that. Let me look up the non-atom board

Yinka Alade
2019-10-02 06:45:22

MKS BaseV1.2 3D Printer Controller Board (RAMPS 1.4 + Arduino 2560 remix board)

this was the name of the board. I bought it on Amazon from Keyes themselves but the item is no longer on Atom being sold by them.

Yinka Alade
2019-10-02 06:45:59

and that was recommended by the Atom dudes as a replacement for not using their board

Birk Binnard
2019-10-02 07:36:40

Hmm mm. Not exactly encouraging. I'll do some research and see what I can find.

2019-10-02 09:27:58


Birk Binnard
2019-10-02 10:04:14

Cherub Shiao The sensor is the standard Atom2 micro-switch. It works fine ; the auto level function runs perfectly up to the place shown in the video.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-02 12:44:33

Amazon has that board for $37.77 which is fine. But it has a different shape which means the mounting holes will be different, so attaching it to the Atom2 frame will not be simple.

Also it looks like the stepper drivers are soldered to the board and not plugged into connectors on the board. This means there's no way to replace a driver if one goes bad. I've saved an old/bad Atom2 board just to have some backup stepper drivers if needed.

Dan Salvador
2019-10-03 10:20:21

Remove the spring during bed leveling

Birk Binnard
2019-10-03 10:28:41

Dan Salvador That's an interesting suggestion that would never have occurred to me. I don't see why it would change anything, but I'll give it a try and post results here. Thanks.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-03 13:15:30

I was really surprised, but removing the spring allowed AutoLevel to complete OK.

But now I have a different problem - the printer fails to remember the Z-Offset setting. Each time I set it and then do Adjust Offset the printer behaves like the offfset has not been set. I may be able to compensate for this by setting a Z-Offset value in my slicer.

Dan Salvador
2019-10-03 14:22:08

Birk Binnard well known issue , during the first print after the bed leveling adjust the offset

Birk Binnard
2019-10-03 22:52:06

Well it certainly wasn't well known by me! But thanks for the info.

I haven't been able to make a first print since completing the bed leveling because the printer crashes the hotend into the bed as soon as it starts to print. And I have re-adjusted the offset after this happened and it didn't fix the problem.

I'll go through the whole process again and see what happens.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-04 07:05:02

Since the AutoLevel completed OK (after removing the spring from the Z-Min adjuster screw) I thought I'd try Auto Calibration to see if that helped things at all. But that function crashed the hotend into the print bed on the 4th move. So there is still something wacked with the printer.

I wish I knew what it was.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-05 10:58:54

After a considerable time testing and checking I found 2 problems, one of which I was able to correct:
1. The small metal flap on the Z-Min micro switch was disconnected from the switch and stuck, by magnetic attraction, to the inside of the end effect or frame. The flap is small enough to hide inside the curve of the frame, so it was difficult to spot. But I finally did find it and after partially disassembling the hotend was able to reinstall it on the bottom of the microswitch.
After this I was able to successfully complete an Auto-Level and Z-Offset adjustment - sort of (see #2.)
2. I'm beginning to suspect some sort of internal EEPROM error because the Z-Offset value keeps getting messed up. Here's a typical scenario:
Perform Adjust Offset and set proper offset using the LCD knob
Perform Adjust Offset again to verify it is OK. It isn't.
Check Z-Offset value on LCD. It is far different from what it should be
Change Z-Offset vaue to 0.00
Perform Adjust Offset again and re-adjust to proper value
Check Z-Offset on LCD - this time it matches previous setting
Run test print with Layer Height = 0.200 mm
First layer prints ok, second layer shows 0.300 for part of the layer, then switches to 0.400, third layer shows 0.400 then switches to 0.500
Stop print and check Z-Offset; it shows 1.32 which is far off from previously set value.

All this leads me to believe I do need a new motherboard.

Yinka Alade
2019-10-06 05:42:29

Birk Binnard I had an issue before where my z offset like yours would just do wild stuff. That was the first time I replaced my board. Second time I replaced it was when I had that shirt I showed you way back in messenger.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-06 06:44:06

Well I'm going to try a different slicer just to ensure it really is a printer problem. I don't much like the idea of replacing the motherboard, but I've done it before so at least I know what to expect.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-06 09:05:56

Well there is definitely something wrong with the way the printer handles Z values. I used a different slicer (Craftware) and had similar issues with the printer's Z height when printing.

My layer height is set to 0.200 mm, but after printing the fir st layer, layer 2 showed 0.100 mm for a while, and I could hear the nozzle tip dragging over the traces from layer 1. Before layer 2 was finished the LCD switched it's display to 0.200, but that didn't seem to make any difference with how the printer was printing.

Layer 3, which should have been at height 0.400, showed as 0.300 and had the same dragging effect as layer 2. I stopped the print soon after noticing this.

So similar results from 2 different slices printing the same part makes it pretty clear there is some sort of problem with the printer itself. I thought about a bug in a stepper motor or stepper motor driver, but if that were the case the hotend X-Y position would be off from what it should be, and it's not. Only the Z value seems to be wrong.

This suggests there is either something wrong with the firmware itself, or with the way the motherboard's firmware is processing the input GCode. So it looks like I need to find a new motherboard.


Clarence Lee
2019-10-07 11:16:23

M503 dump setting
M501 Try to restore failsafe default
M503 dump setting again.
M500 for save setting

Birk Binnard
2019-10-07 11:18:54

Thanks Clarence - I will try that. But I doubt I'll be able to make sense of the EEPROM data.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-07 12:32:30

OK - I tried that series of commands. They seemed to work OK. But printer still doesn't handle Z-Offset properly. When I do Adjust Offset the printer needs an adjustment of 1.350 mm to position the hotend at the proper height. After I do this the Z-Off set reading says 3.175. Then, if I go back and do Adjust Offset and re-adjust to 1.350 the Z-Offset value says 6.10.

Of course I know that Z-Offset is limited to +/- 2.00, so there is something very strange (at least to me) going on here.

I've got the text of those M commands if you want to take the time to look at it. Can't post them here (of course - FB is such a pain) but let me know if you want to see the output. Meanwhile I've been looking at possible replacement motherboards.

Clarence Lee
2019-10-07 12:55:38

How about check the belt, wheel etc. Might need to consider something loose in mechanical.

Birk Binnard
2019-10-07 13:13:28

Been there/Done that. All is OK.

Even if that were the case it wouldn't explain the Z-Offset values being so strange.

Clarence Lee
2019-10-07 13:27:36

It's the farest edge, consider the cable might cause sensor not work as expect at the specific place. Try to loosen some signal cable length

Birk Binnard
2019-10-07 14:50:42

OK - thanks. I'll check all the stepper motor cable connections. That is something I had not thought about.

Nope - all the cable connections are OK - I checked both ends of each. I also made sure the stepper chips were all firmly set in their sockets - they were.

原文網址 Hugo Lopez Uria
2019-07-25 14:29:51

Hi Friends,
I would like to share with you my personal FB Page of Asturian bagpipes made by 3D printing (mainly with Atom 2.0):
Please delete the post if you consider that is not appropiated
Thanks all!


原文網址 Gabriel Aumar
2019-07-23 21:50:31

bonjour merci pour l ajout . je suis de France je monte une "proton" et ensuite la "neutron" et l "électron"

hello thank you for the addition. I am from France I ride a "proton" and then the "neutron" and the "electron"



全不選 發文排行