ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 Dice Cheng
2016-01-05 09:05:09

不錯哦

廖新弘
2016-01-05 09:22:28

遠端進料可能有問題

呂威忠
2016-01-05 12:08:20

印象他不到90度就會軟化了..不過回收再利用應該會相當方便

張不凡
2016-01-05 13:25:28

遠端供料, 抖抖抖...

Yu Shu Huang
2016-01-05 13:57:55

拿熱刀去抹PLA都會黏住,抹起來還挺醜的...這個看起來好好抹喔

呂威忠
2016-01-05 16:36:53

記得官方網站幾年前有免費索取這樣大小的試用品...現在不知道還有沒有

原文網址 Wells Shih
2016-01-05 05:43:13

什麼是工業 4.0 ：第四次工業革命＝提升製造業的電腦化、數位化、與智慧化

原文網址 Chiufan Luk
2016-01-05 03:24:23

求各位前輩幫忙，我剛剛組好這台列印機，為什麼 autohome和autolevel的時候 Z 軸的滑台只能向上不能向下移動，頂到直響...我將X軸馬達的線插在Z的插座上，問題一樣發生在X軸，這是為什麽...感激不盡 T_T

Robin Hsu
2016-01-05 04:45:07

可能問題點一：

autohome & autolevel 本來就都會先往上跑, 所以可能是在微動開關沒有正常運作的狀態下, 馬達就持續運轉 ~

檢查各軸微動開關的線路是否正常運作中

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/power-on-testing....../

----
可能問題點二：

個人不清楚您的機台是舊版還是新版的 ~
如果是 1.0 的版本, 各個步進馬達的線是要自己 DIY 夾上杜邦母針, 然後插進杜邦母座裡頭的 ~

以一般馬達的想法來推, 一般正負極順接反接, 會剛好造成馬達順轉或是逆轉 ~

所以先確定是不是馬達的線接到板子上的順序可能有誤

先查看步進馬達的線是不搭對, 再來考慮您的板子或馬達出狀況 ~
舊版的步進馬達搭線排列是紅藍綠黑 ~

----
不過我對步進馬達還沒深入瞭解, 搞不好接錯線根本不會跑 ~

Chiufan Luk
2016-01-05 05:42:06

我的機器是2.0版本，韌體剛裝好機器就直接升級到了2.0.4，
我用pronterface測試了微型開關沒發現問題，步進馬達的線也按照說明書插好，但Z的馬達還是一個勁的往上跑...

Chiufan Luk
2016-01-05 05:42:18

劉光浩
2016-01-05 10:25:24

更新完韌體先從機器面板重設一下參數再試試~就是有Save / Load那頁選Reset或是Reload之類的功能

Victor Lin
2016-01-05 14:21:02

把送料馬達用的A4988換裝到你的Z軸的A4988試試看

Chiufan Luk
2016-01-05 15:06:48

感謝前輩指教，原來真是A4988出了問題...

Victor Lin
2016-01-06 00:20:38

可以多買一些來備用。

吳韶原
2016-01-06 01:11:54

對不起……我笑了，好有喜感哦～

原文網址 蘇子中
2016-01-05 01:29:56

自從上次炒米粉後，一直出料不順，進料馬達總是噠噠作響，快速的用最小球頭板手去捅也不見改善，只好整個拆開了，拔除了喉管的鐵氟龍管看起來還好，再死命的捅啊捅，總感覺有東西卡住，突然拔出了ㄧ個黑黑的東西，原來鐵氟龍管前端已經斷在裡面了，想請問要剪多長鐵氟龍管來替換呢？

Vincent LM Yeh
2016-01-05 01:43:04

3.7cm

原文網址 Jiunn Yang
2016-01-05 00:50:21

很喜歡這種把進料馬達做在噴頭上的設計⋯

Mickey Chuang
2016-01-05 07:17:17

馬達挷噴頭挷品牌的概念

Io HonGwal
2016-01-05 07:51:02

其實Makerbot 這噴頭的散熱做得不是很好第一次是不知道這個新的怎樣

MoMo Yang
2016-01-05 08:00:50

感覺不錯用

Clarence Lee
2016-01-05 11:14:34

因為Gen5當時那版本很悲劇啊...這版本應該是bug fix或是砍掉重練吧...

原文網址 吳旭倫
2016-01-04 23:27:34

印好,印滿~~只差一點點就到極限了...

陳明谷
2016-01-04 23:37:10

眼淚瀑布

鄭東昇
2016-01-04 23:37:18

太帥了，真衝!尺寸可分享一下嗎？

Odinson Thor
2016-01-04 23:40:11

50幾個小時太猛了

Stanley Chen
2016-01-04 23:49:17

印好好!!?
這是什麼!?

吳旭倫
2016-01-04 23:53:25

有一種想要挖鼻屎的衝動...

Odinson Thor
2016-01-05 01:53:29

這樣印完勢必還要打磨，尤其是眼睛的部分，內側應該就不用那麼搞剛了....

如果機台夠大的話，讓支撐長在後腦勺應該比較好打磨?

張不凡
2016-01-05 13:26:31

眼淚往上流的意境

原文網址 Victor Chang
2016-01-04 22:25:50

是時候該幫ATOM加持一下了！兩天印薄件失敗好多次

Victor Chang
2016-01-04 22:28:38

感謝李穆一路相陪！等成功後一定公開gogoro 鑰匙殼的STL

李穆
2016-01-04 22:31:21

這模型用Kisslicer切片翹邊就蠻嚴重的，用Cura印就好不少，感覺上跟列印外殼的順序以及噴頭的移動模式有關係，Cura有一個特別的滑步動作，感覺把流口水抹掉很多，同時也幫助外圈已經冷卻的料又略為加熱到，減少了熱收縮差，而且外殼除了Loop以外也有斜向填充，翹邊就改善很多

Genu Wu
2016-01-04 22:49:36

我覺得印PLA也是有需要熱床的..尤其天氣冷的時候(聽說官方有要出?)

李穆
2016-01-04 22:53:36

我有熱床，不過只對於低高度有效，當你印到一定高度的時候，遇到傾斜照樣是翹邊刮頭溢料樣樣來。

Victor Chang
2016-01-04 23:02:27

感動的時刻！躺著害我被銼刀銼手指一個洞了

Victor Chang
2016-01-04 23:14:45

感動到想親李穆了！

PC King
2016-01-05 13:03:41

路人甲請教: 這是立直列印比較容易的概念? 這更難吧..

原文網址丁耀
2016-01-04 19:34:22

這個斷層怎麼破還有kisslicer設置無法保存怎麼破

James Lin
2016-01-04 19:40:38

說明書怎麼了 ?

丁耀
2016-01-04 19:52:23

能看清吗

原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 17:39:42

Happy new year my Atom friends.

As some of you might know, I got some problems with my hotend last time. It was clogged with PTFE Tube.
After disassembling everything and reassembling it, I got - who would've guessed - new problems.
But first things first.

1. About that PTFE Tube - My old one was "quite short" and was >stuck< in the lower part of the hotend. Maybe 0.5cm above the heating chamber above the nozzle, where the PLA is "collected".
When I tried to measure the length for a new one, I've seen that the newer one is "not as thick" as the old, so it won't get stuck. It just slides right up through to the nozzle. Can this be a Problem?

2. I then printed an iPhone holder for my girlfriend. Had one problem that comes in question 4 (front right corner), but one more that has more gravity to it - A wobble in every layer. Systematically. I cannot imagine how this happens as I didn't change anything while reassembling. Only thing I can imagine is that PTFE Tube inside that hotend nozzle, but I cannot explain logically >why< it is like this. Here are the links to the pictures of the part:
http://img4web.com/i/7FGENQ.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/823QHC.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/JKZD84.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/WEGDGV.jpg
Any ideas how I can get rid of that?

3. Tried to print some parts for my other printer. Should've been no problem. As i calibrated my extruder (Repetier 100mm equals ~102mm, setting esteps for Extruder to 192,XX resulted in Repetier 100mm => Extruder 100mm) my parts got quite nice, with a measurement of approx. +/- 0.05mm.
BUT! Holes came out >too thick<. As i tried to put a smooth rod inside of one part, the hole was 0.3mm too small on right and left (X/Y Axis), Top and downside (which was on Z_Axis) had the 8mm which it should've had.. Had to drill it and had some work of getting that part in. Was wondering where this cames from as other measurement is quite right.

4. and last one
When I print parts, I usually print them in the middle of the glass bed. No Prob so far.
As i printed the parts for my other printer, I organized them around the bed, using as much space and less time as possible. Good Idea, bad thing for my printer. As i usually do Auto Level and Z-Offset measurement once a week and after every disassemble, I thought everything would be alright.
First layer in the middle of the print bed => Nearly excellent
First Layer on the left side => Gross, got a little bit destroyed. Z-Offset was too low on this one.
First layer on the right side => Well.. It stuck. But the Z-Offset was too high on this one.
Same goes for back side => Too low; and Front side => Too high.
I was wondering why this happens as G29 should compensate for that?
http://img4web.com/i/PVDVW9.jpg <-- here you see left part being in the middle of the table (good) and right part on the front side, as more it goes to the front, the lower the z-offset gets.
http://img4web.com/i/QV2UUZ.jpg <-- here is the front part, being on the right side. You can see that the printer didn't really "push" the filament on the bed and instead just laid it down.
http://img4web.com/i/RW8QFA.jpg <-- in this one, on the front part, you can see that the second layer was put on it quite nicely, although I have typical travel marks on the part. But anyway the first layer is ruined, resulting in a bad part...

Okay. Sorry guys that I wrote soooo much. But I tried collecting some things and put them together here.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide, I count on you :)
Greetings and have a nice day,
Joschka

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 17:59:04

2. how many loops?
3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get......
4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:13:25

Hi Clarence :)
Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:15:24

4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:20:11

4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:22:00

Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help...
Do more check on G29 each movements

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:25:01

cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options?
Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-05 07:28:40

got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk
Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-09 00:00:14

Is 2. STL available or even your gcode..
I could verify how I prints

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 22:31:12

Hi Clarence,
After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多

原文網址 Frank Ku
2016-01-04 17:03:58

想向板上前輩們求教一下目前需要製作建築模型
物件常超過平台的面積所以需要站著印

不知道是否是設定值有問題
印到一定的高度後物件頂端常會被噴頭拉著跑
印出來的狀況也不是很理想

請見影片~

想請教一下是否有解決方法

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 17:04:48

細部- 呈現一種不理想的鋸齒狀
結構脆弱一折就斷

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 17:10:12

設定值 - 1

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 17:10:25

設定值 - 2

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 17:10:39

設定值 - 3

Leo Chou
2016-01-04 17:12:04

90度倒著印看看

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 17:14:59

太長超過平台範圍 >"<

Leo Chou
2016-01-04 17:15:44

切元件再接

劉聖心
2016-01-04 17:16:30

自己在3D軟體內排好位置,中間自己畫肋條連接,印完再修剪掉.

Stanley Chen
2016-01-04 17:40:20

推樓上
這是物理現象不是你設錯了

Cadmus Zeng
2016-01-04 17:48:12

有玩過疊疊樂嗎?

片翼之鳶
2016-01-04 17:49:43

斜角開支撐看看?

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 18:15:20

可是同一個STL 已經離職的前輩卻印得很漂亮(右邊那隻) :(
也沒看到拆支撐或是接縫的痕跡說
所以才想說是設定的數值哪邊出了問題

片翼之鳶
2016-01-04 18:17:04

1.速度放慢
2.第一層要黏緊可以降低第一層高度0.05 放慢第一層速度
加大第一層外圈數量

Frank Ku
2016-01-04 18:19:23

好喔我來試試看 :D

片翼之鳶
2016-01-04 18:20:05

會晃通常是第一層黏不夠緊造成物件高度不對
也有可能是底盤就不穩

PC King
2016-01-04 18:56:37

可能因為噴頭太靠近而邊印邊拉最上層, G29 Z offset 調高看看...我最近也在三軸角落列印三根15公分高小圓柱, 在其中一邊發現小圓柱在發抖..(噴頭移動的時候會扯動), 加大底層 brim 在細長的物件恐怕沒什麼幫助, 頂多是不倒, 但無法保持不晃. 或者想辦法在外圈長支撐避免晃動, 但要拆就是.

曾俊維
2016-01-04 19:29:47