Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Went to fire up my photon, it’s been sitting a while and the screen pulled out with the tank ?

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Hi guys/gals

Couple questions... I’m reupholstering the seats in my vette. I broke a plastic cover plate that has been discontinued.

So far I’m unhappy with the printed results on my prusa. I like the texture the bed gives as it creates an OEM finish but getting the fillets not to look like chamfers with the outward facing side against the bed is where it’s coming up short so onto the questions.

1. Would anyone here be able to assist me in adding a texture to the model that resembles the texture of plastic on the interior of a car like a dashboard? I designed my piece in fusion 360.

2. Do you think standard resin once painted would work well as a retaining clip or should I get something stronger? on FDM I was planning on producing the final piece in PETG.

Thanks!

Here is a pic of the factory piece installed. I’ll add pics of my printed piece when I get home if anyone needs/wants to see it before they weigh in.

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When small parts like the top of this staff or a spear tip frequently fail, is that a sign to reduce or increase exposure time?

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Hi everyone, as great as the Photon is I’m looking to get rid of mine I just don’t have enough projects that make use of the technology. FDM seems to meet most of my needs.

Here is a link to my marketplace listing for everything. In case anyone is interested.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/324285294847608/

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Hey guys, I had really great results with my anycubic resin but this mono cure rapid grey is giving me fits. I’ve tried both profiles for .05 layer height from the spreadsheet. Both with ok results but the prints just don’t stick to the bed as well as anycubic did. I’ll probably sand the bed as many of you have but I’m trying one more print as is.

I’m most concerned about this failure because I have a footprint the size of the build plate which is not the size of the model.

I did the UV test and screen appears to behave normally.

I’m still trying to print these coins. Which I noticed when snapping this pic in b9 I messed up the base of the smaller supports so I’ll need to thicken those up.

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Hey guys/gals I printed this coin using monocure grey flat on its back with no supports. Is this elephant foot imperfection due to the suction or improper cure time? The matrix I printed seemed fine with these settings. Thanks for any advice to correct this ?

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Got this SLA troubleshooting guide from All3DP this morning. I thought it may be worth sharing although I’ve not yet had a chance yet to read through it. (There is FDM info too)

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Finally finished printing and assembling. If it gets painted I’ll try to share final pics but I don’t really know what happens to these things once I drop them off lol.

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Hi guys, 2 questions...

1. I notice that people are curing their prints much longer than I am typically to achieve appropriate hardness l, the legs I just printed for this fire demon for example my nail didn’t dig into it at all right off the build plate but I washed and cured for 2mins anyway. Typically 5mins or less is all that I require. Should I back off my cure time on this resin during the printing?

2. What is the best way to cleanly assemble resin prints with liquid resin and cure or super glue or something else?

Thanks!

That dragon was printed on my Taz6 and PRUSA Mk3 it’s the largest model I’ve printed yet. These will all be used for a D&D campaign.

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Just curious is anyone using multiple build plates or vats to speed up swapping resins, recovering after failed prints etc? Not sure how viable it would be as there could be slight variations in vat and build plate that would require calibration each time you swap...

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