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All of my prints are coming out too big. An xyz calibration print should be 50, 30 and 8. But it's printing at 50.2, 30.2 and 8.2. that is way too innacurate. The other people printing with fdm's are getting 50.02. I've tried many different exposure times.

Someone mentioned the formware slicer can adjust the size of the image to suit? Is that my only option. If so what is the specific setting in formware called?

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Hi there guys, just a quick question to know your opinion on this subject:

I make small detailing parts for H0 scale (1/87) and at this point I'm using the old method of making a prototype and reproducing it in resin using silicone and urethane resin.

Is there any resin that I could use final products instead of using the silicone mold method?

There are some firms in this area making final products (Like RedOak and Rusty Stumps) but I think they are using Form printers.

Are there any resins that are similar in toughness to Form resins?

Detail is not a problem, durability and resistance are. Below some examples of the products I make.

Thanks for your help.

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Does anyone know why the Photon-S isn't on the anycubic website? I plan on buying a resin printer very soon and any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

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I continue to be impressed with this machine. I didn’t expect this to actually print...

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Amazing how simple it is to find answers to most of the issues I've had. (Z motor stopping, USB stick, best exposure times and sundry other things).

I just went to https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/

Damn near everything you need there!!!

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On this journey a building a scale model of Skylab and having decided to do it in more than one scale I run into the various issues involved with scale model building. Here I am working out the difficulty in printing the three-man couch that sat inside the cockpit of the Apollo capsule. This is at 1:96 scale, and I hope at this scale to start the interior detail as in the monogram 1:32 scale.
To some degree it doesn't become an issue of whether or not I can print the part but can I print the part so that it logically goes together like a model.
Designing models is a process of redesign you end up where the concept of how you want to produce the model but if you're a model builder it never fails you want to add your spin. No matter how you look at it and especially if you're going to let someone else build it it helps if they can logically deduce how a part fits together even if they have instructions.
You will start noticing in the future did I have objects in the picture with tiny writing on it this forces my phone to focus at this close up a shot. So you'll start seeing the backs of business cards glue tubes and other things with small writing on them. Eventually I'll set a small photo studio up but in this small apartment I don't even really have room to do what I'm doing.

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Is this Z wobble? Left one is good, right one has a messed up dash. Build plate is levelled properly.

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At work we’re looking at printing working parts and mechanisms. From a mechanical point of view the regular resins aren’t fit for purpose, being too brittle and prone to grinding to a fine powder if used as a friction joint like a ball socket, or any other component that rubs up against another. Now it seems that the material for the job is Siraya Blu.. Which is unavailable (without massive import costs) in the UK. Are there any alternatives out there that will do the same? We do also have a Form 2 that we’re probably going to get appropriate resins for, but we also want to use the more affordable option for working prototypes. I’ve had bad experiences with the Photocentric stuff, so off possible not that. Any ideas?

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Don't know why, but the last few prints failed for no obvious reason. Ordered new resin and FEP but before changing I thought I might give it one more try....

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So as I print parts, some of them are detailed little buggers with tiny holes that leave no room for proper sanding...but they clearly need sanding. They're functional parts. They print with the holes and general dimensions slighty too big to fit in place.

My question -- is there an alternative to sanding that will take off a clean layer of the resin and prepare it for curing? Jewelry tumbler? Heat gun? I don't know. Doesn't matter to me if it's very slow and takes forever so long as it's not using microscopic drill bits and files by hand.

Any suggestions?

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