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I think if you look through thingiverse you could have some luck finding a blank shoulder pad or a pre made world eaters

Matt Reed I found a blank pad and a world eater symbol i just having no luck bending and shaping it like it needs 2 be

What you need mate? Show a screenshot of what you have and what you want and ill try guide you through it.

Danny Murphy basically this

Danny Murphy this is where I'm stuck

Not sure on blender but pretty easy to do it you just extrude it to the shoulder on Fusion360. Hard part is getting that curvature.

Look up some tutorials on using the shrink-wrap modifier in Blender. I've been modeling nameplates for bases, and it's what I've been using to match the name text curve to the plate.

Robin Sieders ok thanks

Not to discourage the do it yourself part but....
https://cults3d.com/....../chaos-space-marine-shoulder......

thanks bud .. i did look on yeggi to no avail so i tried to just make 1

You want to wrap it around the shoulder? You could use 2 simpledeform modfiers set to bend. One set to X axis and other set to Y axis.

Then after that you could create a lattice and a lattice modifer to tweak it into place. Tutorial on lattices here: https://youtu.be/22azmmo146I

I make my stuff in 3d builder.

you should just paint the pliers green and call it done, the shorts look great!

That ass though. Nice.

Cool.. is their a link for the stl.

I will post it up in the morning so sit tight. I’m going to rest these eyes for the real detail work tomorrow.

Ryan Myers looks like its probably this one. https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-samus......

Looks good! Solid or hollow?

Ryan Tudor solid

https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-Samus......

Now if I could only find a good Ridley model to compliment her

Yes ☺️

Only if you want to print

Scott Pavlich technically can still print.....

If you hear it peeling of the FEP then you likely have a successful print because its sticking to the build plate.

Where did you find the file for leveling the plate?

that's the exposure finder file, i just noticed that it was... horribly crooked after printing

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3973475

Justin Scott Larson thanks!

he also wasnt' kidding that it's fragile. i broke off a bunch of the little towers wiping it dry

Justin Scott Larson dang it boy...

I had the same issue. The problem is most likely high sucktion pulling the plate out of level.
Level and REALLY tighten the screen down.

Kenneth Johansen I'll give that a shot.

I agree. Making sure the screen on the cat was as tight as I could get it made all the difference for me.

I’ve only been printing a few days, and that was a big help.

Murphy's first rule of leveling: if there's a slight chance to screw up your print, it will. If there's absolutely no chance to screw up your print, it will.

Mind did this during tests too, but is leveled properly

Nothing wrong with the plate and level. It is good because it stick first layer.

is it failing exactly the same each time? Are the supports identical?

Seems to be that that same side but they don’t turn out well I’m trying to print dnd bases for figures already made it’s just these that started not working I’m currently trying a print of something I already made to see if it turns out. If that comes out fine I’m sure it’s the supports

Not enough supports to keep the part on it...

Kayo Michiels ok I’ve don’t hundreds of prints and then boom this one didn’t work so I’m fixing the supports

use heavy supports.

Need to rotate the bases 30 to 45 degrees diagonally from the plate. Looks like the surface tension is pulling the bases off the supports.

I like to print bases directly on the plate.
You can cut your base exposure back by 30% or so when you do.
Of course you end up with some elephant's foot, but I just file that off. Easier than dealing with the nubs from supports and warping from inadequate supports.

I seriously do not have elephants foot

Umm i bet they mirrored the side that didnt print, with a software that doesnt correct normals automaticly. Had this happen to me a few times. There is nothing wrong with the printer, just the stl. PM me with the stl and ill slice it for you...

Initial exposure looks good, you have adhesion to the plate. Suggest angle you print at or support contact size - as the suction is too high for the model to stay on the supports

Too heavy for supports. I agree you need to change the angle and/or add heavier supports. Also make sure to strain your resin and clean the fep.

I printed an N95 mask on my FDM printer.. But valves can be printed on the Photons for ventilators using the right resin..

what resin wold be the right one? plant-based?

I tried to optimise this one for Photon but haven't printed it yet

Here's one.. But there are quite a few that are FDA certified..
https://www.3dresyns.com/pages/bio-compatible-3dresyns

Do you have any valve designs

450euros per litre!?

Isn’t resin toxic? The stuff most of us hobby printers isn’t food safe. So I can’t imagine it’d be good to have resting on your skin or breath through. It’d have to be the right kind of resin.

Henry Jackson there are a lot more than that, but biomedical resin is pretty expensive.

Sydnee Davidson yes. Exactly the problem.

Sydnee Davidson , most of it is, absolutely.. However they do have very specific food safe and biomedical safe resin that can be used.. It's just VERY expensive..

Mark Rothman they even have an anti-bacterial PLA too. I ran across a YouTube video for mask printing using the anti-bacterial filament. And I believe it was on the pricey side too. But likely a lot more cheaper than specialized resin.

Gary Slovinsky PTEG, as a plastic, is generally considered food safe on the fillament side, but you still run the risk of the FDM printing with 'holes' and gaps, ever with the best of settings.

Mark Rothman I wasn’t referencing Food related printing. I believe the original post was related to medical style respirators and the like. I was only bringing up that I viewed a video of a respirator being printed but using an anti-bacterial filament. My sole point is there is such a thing as an anti-bacterial filament.

It's a cupping effect, you'd need to print it sideways in order to not have air pressure form a hole

Joey Molnar thanks!

Without support, you may have some air bubbles on your plate which causes holes in the print at the first few layers

Also having the VAT as full as possible helps a little.

Or you can put a small hole like 1mm at the base if that won't be a problem for the function of the part

I took a moment to google for you:

03 and 04 are absolutely identical according to the data sheets, they only differ in the connection cable (for the 04 there is a 90 ° adapter, then this also fits):

This works:

Bernhard Redlich thanks Bernhard

Bernhard Redlich my lcd screen got dead pixels. Waiting for Anycubic to send me a replacement, but it had being almost 3 weeks and shipping still not reach me. So thinking to get a spare one for future.