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Need to pick some brains. Recently, everything I print produces a rectangular blob like the one below, regardless of what file I print. Occasionally, it will continue printing beyond the blob, and I'll get a partial structure, or if I'm really lucky, a complete structure with little flappy single layer pancake blobs stuck to it every 5 mm or so.
I've changed FEP liners, releveled twice, made sure the screen is extra clean (running one of my few remaining alcohol wipes over it then using a razor blade to make sure there's no resin stuck to the screen) and there are no visible scratches. I'm using a Kensington USB drive instead of the one that came with the machine. I'm printing with elegoo grey resin (though it did the same thing on my last prints with Anycubic Maroon)

Any ideas what's going wrong or recommendations for what I should check next?

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I purchased one of those stupidly expensive twin-rail upgrade kits for my OG Photon, since I'm tired of having large scale prints marred by Z-wobble (which sometimes happens even with optimal orientation). I'm going to try installing it tonight, once I'm finished with the current print job. Wish me luck...

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For those of you who make models or action figures, rotational joints are a pain in the ass for resin, but after a lot of trial and error I've come up with a fairly painless method that doesn't involve purchasing expensive flexible resin or splitting your sculpt down the middle.
You can use this sheath design for shoulders, necks, wrists, ankles, or any other parts that need to spin in a socket. I've shrunk it down as small as 8mm and still had it work, and you should be able to scale it up as large as it needs to go.

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Somebody provide me with advice. I can't get anything to stick to the build plate anymore.
I'm using an OG single Z-rail Photon. I haven't updated the firmware settings or done anything else drastic to change my settings. The only slightly pimped out accessory I'm using is the Peopoly FEP vat instead of the one that came with the machine, but I've been using it successfully for about 2 months without incident.
I have re-leveled 6 times, and changed the FEP liner once. I tested the UV light and it looks fine. I made sure all hex nuts on the Z slide are nice and tight. I've cleaned the screen to make sure there's no resin or anything else stuck on there, and there aren't any visible scratches on the glass. I've tried printing multiple different files including a large objects with raft, and smaller objects without. About half the time the smaller objects on the very outermost edges will print, but everything in the middle just sticks to the FEP liner, seemingly from the very first layer since it doesn't make the "kerchunk" suction noise I've come to expect.

I got one decent large scale print two days ago after I ran a block of fine grain sandpaper block over the build plate a couple of times, but now it's right back to the same old issues. I've reset twice since then, and it just goes straight back to sticking to the FEP liner and not the build plate.

I am printing with standard black Elegoo resin at the moment, but I've printed with black many times before without issue, and I'm using the exact same settings as I've always done. I'm trying to finish a large scale multi-part project at the moment, so I really don't want to have the far right side of my model a different color from all the rest.

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I suspect I know the answer, but somebody tell me if I'm completely screwed with this error. My print job froze with "Memory Error Code: M_11000. Please Try to Replug the USB disk and continue printing." I have done so, multiple times, and even switched flash drives and overwritten the existing file, just in case it was corrupted, and it always does the same thing... after returning to the proper level, it displays a solid blue screen while the flash drive LED flickers like mad. I've left it to do it's thing for a couple of hours, and it never advanced. The Pause and Stop menu options are completely unresponsive. All I can do is physically pull out the USB, which returns me to the same Memory Error Code above.
Is this print a lost cause? Of course it would have to happen 60% of the way through a large scale print job, when I just poured the last drop of Elegoo White into the machine this morning. (I've been putting off buying more since Amazon is currently asking $45 a bottle)

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After running a day or two of tests, I'm trying to print my first action figure using a roughly 50/50% mix of Siraya Tech flexible "Tenacious" resin and regular black.

It's a bit disappointing that I have to use such a high ratio because (A) the Siraya stuff is super expensive and (B) it makes smaller parts semi-transparent, but the degree of flexibility is inversely proportional to the thickness of the part, which makes perfect sense.

I noted on my test prints that the tiny 1.5mm support columns become semi-flexible (like the teeth of a comb) at about 33% Siraya but the 13mm wide part I was trying to print was still completely solid. At 50% Siraya, the 13mm tube is still utterly inflexible, but I've got a tiny amount of bend on the 3mm raft, and the 1.5mm support pieces bend easily with something close to the flexibility of most fingers and small accessories on vinyl action figures (though they will snap and break off if you bend them too far).

50/50% is probably the best mixture I'm likely to get without also having parts that are completely see-through. (I've learned that flexible = unpaintable, so what you see is what you get.) I may get slightly better opacity results with resins that aren't black, since it's semi-translucent to begin with. I'm curious as to what this stuff will look like mixed with Anycubic Flesh.

I've had to adapt my usual FDM printing plug design to incorporate a U-shaped hole in the center that I hope will give the two prongs enough flex to fit into the sockets and then elasticize back into place so they don't pop out again after assembly.

Assuming no misprints, I should know by tomorrow morning if it's worked.

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I'm finding that while my action figure designs look great when printed in resin, none of the joints function anymore because (regular) resin has virtually no flex. (I haven't tried using Tenacious yet)
Does anybody know of any locking socket or pivot joint designs that have been proven to work with standard resin?
I had to cheat and use the design below for a shoulder joint. Basically, a 7-point gear with two of the teeth cut off so it'll only pop in-out in a single configuration. It works, but my figure still pops apart if you line it up just the right way.
I haven't yet figured out a way to replace the knee joints, other than drilling holes in from the side and embedding actual 2mm nuts and bolts.

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If you don't want to risk putting IPA in your ultrasonic cleaner, this is my cheap solution (just make sure you don't fill your beaker too full) :)

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My Anycubic now has a place of it's own.

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It wouldn't let me attach a video and a file in the same post, but here's the LED block hole that can be added to existing designs via TinkerCAD or any other CAD editor.

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