Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Depends on your resin... did you run any exposure test to see correct exposure? Does your level is perfect? Does the fep tension is correct? I do not use prusa for support but chitubox

Use a skate raft?

If the bottom of the supports are sticking to the Buildplate and the supports are not built, your normal exposure is most likely too low.

If you do not want to up the exposure, you could try lowering the lift speed as that will result in slower applic ation of force of pulling the print off the FEP... (slower application equals less force in this case)
Though it is generally better to up your exposure, since at this point if you would lower the lift speed and your supports build, your model could be torn off the supports as that resin has not cured enough and therefor isn't strong enough yet.

Edit:
If you have a FLIR, check the temperature of your printer surroundings, and your resin.... Ideally your resin should be at least 20C (68Farenheit) but preferrably higher than 25C (77F)....

you could also check your support depth and make sure it is in far enough to hold the print.

The supports aren't even there though all that's on the plate is the raft :/

Ok so i have it at 8 seconds, is there a list online of exposure times for anycubic resins? Or do i need to just test it myself for each bottle i get?

yeah then i would work on your normal exposure. have you used the chart as a starting point.. https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt....../htmlview......

you can only use this as a starting point as there are many variables that come into play for even print let alone every resin..

Aaron Strome Ok cool thanks, yea it's weird, i printed a chaos warrior like just last night and came out nearly perfectly with 30 sec bot layer and way less exposure, i don't get why suddenly its not happy. I'll try more exposure time.

yeah like i said a lot of variables including shaking it enough, waiting for bubbles to clear.

Considered using a raft?

Ethan Zachary each bottle can be different.
There is a big reference sheet out there, but that does not account for the UV-LED strength/quality of YOUR printer...
Each color definately is different.
In example:
Anycubic Translucent Green is (much) easier to print than Anycubic Black.

(for me the Green prints on 6 seconds,
I mixed black and white and need 8 seconds already for my custom "grey"... and that is borderline as I've seen some of my prints just barely succeed/fail due to under-exposure. )

Xi-Sheng Luo So i've gotten pretty good at diagnosing FDM failure, but is there a way to tell what's failing with my resin? Like what shows its underexposure rather than say a levelling issue?

Leveling issues are shown with the print not sticking to your buildplate.

However that sometimes is also partially underexposure of the base layers but then we are talking about baselayer exposures under 30seconds...

You need something solid to pull the print off the FEP.
Delamination/support breakage is due to the force needed to pull layer off the FEP exceeded what the layers could handle.
That is orientation to reduce force or higher curetimes to increase strengths or lower peel speed.

Since your print failed at the thick part of the support, the force was too high for a simple "dot" to adhere to the base layer.

Orientation is not a factor on a "dot", it is on surfaces that run parallel to FEP, as it sticks to more FEP surface.

So then there is curetime and peel speed left.

If you lower your peel speed now, you might have breakage at the tips of your support.

When do you change your peel speed then: when you go into extreme thin layers and/or fine detail, as higher curetimes also mean that your cured layer expands a fraction more, resulting in fine detail loss.

But you would first need to have a successful print which you then can measure/check for loss of detail/expansion etc.

Xi-Sheng Luo Can you have levelling issues between two prints within an hour of each other? I had a print stick to the plate, then changed exposure to 12 seconds and then suddenly nothing sticks.

use a raft and that will eliminate your issues

Ethan Zachary yes, that's possible,

you've held the plate wrong and torqued it a little when taking print off and ruined your levelling

but usually it means you might have some resin in the ball joint and you want to disassemble that and clean the ball, slightly sand the top while you have it open to give the screw that pushes down a bit more grip.

But there is a difference between "nothing" sticking to the plate and only the base of your supports sticking to the plate.

I only use manual orientation and auto support in chitubox. And check for islands in the file validator, and I've had no issues since I was told I had to reduce surface tension (I didn't do it before).
My only recurring problem is exposure for new resins...

Xi-Sheng Luo Yea it went from the base sticking, to suddenly nothing between prints, even after i increased the exposure time, and theres nothing stuck on the FEP either, I'll disassemble the ball joint and try to clean it. Do you have any good videos you would recommend? Or just google it and any work well? Also Do you know why i can't do the flint read method? The arm wont phyically lower enough, keeps hitting the vat edge

Go with the auto supports which includes a raft. Add manual supports as needed.

I just checked the bloody LCD this morning and it was just idk, lighting up the whole thing? Even when doing the exposure tests in the machine. So i flashed the firmware back on then it fixed itself. Just re levelled so will try to print again. Yea i just reset all my supports etc and orientated hollowed with holes then let the auto support handle it. we'll see how we go !

Ethan Zachary Oh, I feel your pain. My Photon is down because the LCD broke away from the machine because resin leaked through the resin tank and glued itself to the LCD. And, that is just one in a long string of sad litanies. I'm going to spring for a new machine that's more reliable.

Charles Davenport Man this is such a different process than FDM and the learning curve is huge XD usually the worst you get with my ender 3 if i fuck up is a scratched bed. Here it can flood your system, starting a toxic fire. I mean comeon man haha. Btw one of my D&D players character has the same name as you, he wanted the poshest and most upper class name he could think of XD (i mean that as a compliment, as awkward as it sounded)

Thank you! And I agree about the learning curve. I have a Zortrax 200, actually two of them, just humming away on several different projects. I guess we just have to tolerate the pain in order to get the details FDM just cannot do.

If your base is adhering to the plate but your supports are not adhering to the base, that sounds like an exposure issue. Did you run an exposure test? Personally I've found 8 sec it's not enough exposure. Mine runs at 10 seconds for .02 and 12 second s for .05 for most of my resins (this varies depending on the temperature of the room).

Which is another thing to consider. Is the room your printer is in too cold? Optimal is between 21 and 25 degrees celcius.

Try 80 second exposure for first layers

Also up the Z height to like 3 I find it helps

30 sounds very low. And hollow the model. That helps a lot.

Raise the mini by 5mm. Rotate by 15 degree. A lot of heavy supports on the base, then some light ones for the overhangs parts. Should be a success.

60-80 seconds, 8-10 layers bottom. Then at least 7 sec for the next layers.

Raise bottom exposure.
Also, the Print will fail, to much Islands

see i get an issue with supportless then as it tries to add supports to the base of the model. But it needs little to no support?

its a supportless model, on my fdm it prints great (exceot the cloak where i added a few supports (just a bit droopy) if i rotate it wont i ruin the designers efforts to make it support free?

its supportless (on the ender 3 at least) is the supportless design only feasible on fdms and doesnt transfer to resin as easily?

Yes, but you are printing resin not fdm. Resin printing is a entirely different ruleset.

Supportless might still very well apply but that doesn't change suction rules.
I'd like the check the module for supports necessary but it seems to be a paid model?
(Atleast the quality tlels me) So I can't do that for you.

What exactly are the suction rules? how do i tell if a model is supportless on resin? Or is it basically impossible to tell and ill need to screen each model individually?

Ethan Zachary totally depends on the bridging capabilities of your printer. I don't know about ender3 but photon's are... not that great.

Jeff Savoie i changed to this and i got a different model, does this look like it might work now?

Mourni Tenchou Yeaaaa its paid, i'd offer to send it to you but :/ i don't want to kill the wonderful modeller community that's starting up. I love the prices. I can link if you want though, was 3 skeletons for 4 bucks?

You cna link it. Maybe I own it already.

If you have discord I can quickly show you my workflow

Mourni Tenchou https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-1-elite......
Nah don't have discord sadly

well i do but my mic and camera have pooped it

Neat models.

Hmm I mean you don't need to talk. I cna quickly show you a rundown of how to support minis.

MagicMourni#5641

I'll simply stream my screen and show how I'd support a similar mini.

I need to work on some now anyways.

I sent it now

I've printed a couple of these in different sizes. It's supportless, so just print it on the plate. You're adding unnecessary complexity by trying to add supports and rotating.

Im just here to ask where you got the stl.... that's amazing

https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-1-elite......

Ethan Zachary thanks