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As long as you mix it up after it sits for awhile it will work fine

Following ?

around 37ml if i remember correctly

All of the resin. You ain't cool unless you post a pic with the resin damn near overflowing.

that way to less

?‍♀️ ?‍♀️

Up to the line is around 100 ml.

150 ml I think

Pour resin up to the line where the chamfer starts in the vat, about a quarter up from the FEP. This is about 125ml. From the Photonsters github

125ml per spec

It's better to not fill all the way. Resen gets into the screws and the ball joint. Gums up the works and needs a deep cleaning

150ml is a safe max

Füll es sicherheitshalber mit Wasser auf und wiege es dann. 1 ml = 1 gramm. Wüsste ich es auch nicht genau aus dem Kopf.

I love how so many people are guessing at something that is easily measured.

when i measure out 100ml in a beaker it goes just barely over that line...

Aaron Strome dont make me weak, Just started a 9h Print 3 hours ago. IT needs 110ml. I am Not coming Home until 10 hours ?

you have a lot of things to work out if you are judging my what chitubox say it weighs. is it hollow that adds a bit for trapped resin the surface resin that is left on it after the print and i always add 30ml more than chitubox says since it has been wrong many times before

Aaron Strome oh No ?

yeah unfortunately i think you're @#$%'ed sorry... unless you have someone who can add more resin or hit pause until you get home..

Aaron Strome my girlfriend is Not able to fill it . And Pause makes ugly Lines ?

ugly lines versus a headless print.. hmmmm

Mario Hippmann that’s because the temperature of the resin inside vat is higher than the one you are adding. So mixing them both will change resin temperature inside vat and also how much it’s expand when the layer is curing. If you are able to add some heat to the resin in the bottle, this effect should be less or none.

Aaron Strome yes i got fuc*** ? Just s little Bit was Missing

Luiz Junior rly? Thats the reason for the Lines ? I would have a Heat blower, but now its to late ?

Mario Hippmann shitty

Mario Hippmann you can pause and resume without add more resin and check that the lines won’t appear, only if you add cold resin to it. I’m thinking on a way to heat it easy...

Are you printing directly on the build plate?

Spencer Griffin no they are at an angle

Nicolas A. Winton how do you get your bases so level? Thats one of the last issues I'm facing is warping on round bases when printed with the model

Spencer Griffin I'm honestly not sure. What are your exposure settings? If they are too high, that might be causing them to warp

Nicolas A. Winton elegoo abs gray with 8 seconds. It mostly seems to be the suction force warping it.

Yea I'm not sure then. That matches my settings

teh question is if the light can pass through those lines or not. I'd try the lcd test with that fep over the window to check, but I'm noob

I wouldn't bother installing it, would probably work but it's not worth the hassle

I'd get a new one just incase so you have one to hand but you can only try it when your current one needs to be replaced, the Mark's might pull out when its installed, I had a similar issues on my peopoly phenom but they werent quite as bad

the problem is if i buy a new in my country it will be about 35 usd. i have alot to print so can´t wait for china :D

get a new one

I’m going to go against the “ popular” opinion and tell you it’s probably not a concern if it’s dented and not actually gouged or thinned down in the area. Fep has a high tensile strength , which is why you can stretch it so tightly without it ripping. I’ve run for weeks with way worse than that...not because I didn’t have replacements but running 9 photons I get real tired of replacing them. Make sure your screen edges are taped, and if you got some pure silicone lubricant coat the inside of the printer underneath the vat(including the screen) with it...if it should leak at least you’ll be able to get the resin off.

I’ve been using mine for a while and it has a couple
Marks that look like that, should be fine, just a PSA resin printing shouldn’t be viewed as a toy (due to the obvious risks of resin) I wouldn’t recommend letting your kid play with your stuff anymore.

Place it in the vat so it got tention and then heating it with maby a hair blower might fix it?

A. Price
B. Durability

Pick one.

I went a different route and bought an ultrasonic portable washing machine puck. Then you just toss it in the container of your choice. I have had it sitting in ipa for months with no negative effects. https://www.walmart.ca/....../Peahefy....../PRD77IWSS2WD2KO

Interesting, didn't know those existed.

I went with this one except the price was lower.

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search......

I was wondering if those worked well or not.

I have that one but I got it on eBay for about $50 a little over a week ago.

coll, aber bedenklich ;) mit belichtungszeiten

zeig mal nah aufnahme, wenn trocken, wie die übergänge von farbe zu farbe sind

;)

Love these models, great choice.

Something so satisfying seeing resin prints rise slowly from the vat :D

I dunno...as an FDMist, not being able to see the first few layers fills me with dread!

I got over it once I realized that the likelihood of a print failing is SO LOW - unless you changed resins or something got knocked around somehow. I've printed like 30 times in a row and still haven't had to change anything since my first successful print. But that first print...man....I was sweating

Ryan Shelvik yeah, catastrophically failed prints seem rare. A support popping off and ending up with a crap print isnt unheard of, but ending up witb a knackered fep seems rare

try a glass cleaning solution instead