Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Dude ! I thought the TV series was great where on earth did you get this !

Is this with AA?

Loved that critter. Any chance you will be making the stl available?

Andy No just standard. 0.05mm layers

Jason You didn't check the link ?

great I need £1,000's of equipment and access to the original models :) I'll get on it then :)

.

Impressive, sadly still no closer to finding a 3d scanner that can really scan and capture existing small miniatures for 3d scanning and then printing. Or at least not that anyone pointed me to one.

Chris Ceizyk Artec Spider or any jewellery scanner. But they cost.

you might want to check out the Einscan-SP, it is an affordable 3D scanner with great auto-stitching software, my scan was done with the already 3 year old Einscan-S.

Sjef Blaster how big was that figure? I'm looking at scanning some pretty small items upto 160-170mm.

I'm actually shipping something to the vp of North America einscan to scan things for me to see if they'll work

The Rancor is 278mm in height, and here is also a 3D scan of a figure head 1/6 scale 44mm high (with original side by side).

Sjef Blaster wow, the real technical challenge is what I'm looking to capture/scan in is this. At it's assembled height it's 30mm tall, I need scans of it both assembled and unassembled, I've reached out to EinScan looking at their SE, SP & Pro.

it could be done, but you will ned a sub 0.1mm scanner, and still the problem with the 3D scanning process is that you will always loose sharp edges, if you sculpt these yourself, then you might want to think about sculpting in a larger format and scanning, and scaling to the desired size, going smaller enhances detail.

also a lot of scanners can only scan in the higher range detail in a solid setup, like with the Einscan, it can do around 0.05mm, but only with the rotation platform and on a stand.

I also scanned the Rancor in separate pieces, so it can be printed this way.

Sjef Honestly I would totally prefer a stationary scanner and my plan was to already look at it on an elevated platform and rotating on a central platform.

I've been looking at the following.

EinScan SP Max Resolution 0.17mm, Max Accuracy 0.05mm

EinScan Pro, Max Resolution 0.24mm, Max Accuracy 0.05mm

David SLS-2, Max Resolution 0.06mm, Max Accuracy 0.06mm

Now keeping in mind I know how the technology works I'm not 100% on which of those based on those specs would be the most idea.

The David scanner system, can capture high detail, but you will have to manually setup for every part of the scan, and probably manually stitch the scans together to make a solid, Einscan software does this automatically, and can make watertight scans for 3D printing.

I choose the Einscan just because of the software, a lot of other scanners rely on you using 3rd party software to make the scan complete into a solid model, and that can take many, many hours, the Einscan software does it automatic.

Sjef Blaster Makes sense, of those EinScans which is better? I mean their all sub 0.1mm in their accuracy. The Huge difference is the SP is like $2300 and the Pro is portable and $5,000. The David sits nicely in between at $3275

Sjef Blaster The auto build aspect is actually REALLY attractive.

The best bang for buck is probably the Einscan-SP, it is a plug and play scanner, and can do 0.05mm scans, and with the auto rotation platform scanning is fast too, but don't forget you will also need a good PC, to handle all the large files :)

Sjef Blaster Thankfully I'm a high-end PC Gamer in my free time, so the PC in mind should be able to handle everything.

When I sent the parts to the VP of North American Sales over the weekend I'll ask him to make sure and test with the EinScan-Ep. Hopefully, it'll do the trick.

I'll also be interested in the results of those scans, let me know :)

Sjef Absolutely.

Sjef Blaster So getting back to you, I shipped off a handful of small Xeno like figures to the VP of North American sales for EinScan. With the purpose of if it can scan those, it can scan everything else.

Sadly the result's were well not good, the E inScan heavily smoothed out portions of the tail and basically, all skin texture was lost. He tested it with the EinScan SE, EP & Pro, the Pro was the best however even that it lost most of its details.

I was hoping that the Pro with no information posts about a minimum size of the item required would have picked it up.

Chris Ceizyk Too bad, but it seems you still might be able to use the David 3D scanner setup, I found a page about smaller scale scanning, otherwise you might want to look into dental 3d scanners :)

https://www.growshapes.com/....../3d-scanning-minute......

Sjef Blaster I've reached out to a few people at hp about the David sls-2 3d scanner just waiting to hear back. I also have been exchanging emails with the eastern Washington university archeology department who uses it.

Same issue i had post a pic of the firmware screen on your printer....
Its either a slicer problem or more likely frame shearing, i solved it by downgrading to 4.0.11 (thanks Vinicius )

Welcome to the club! A few of us have been fighting this for a while. I haven't tried downgrading my firmware yet though...

James

downgrade to 4.0.11 from the photonsters.org firmware Archives
then get the problematic file, zip it with this screenshot and send it to support@chitubox.com. if more people do this maybe Xinfu Xie and their team take their heads off the ground, stop ignoring what the community keeps saying and correct the mess they made somewere on the first update after 4.0.11 quicker

Hmmm I’ve had this happen twice now. May downgrade soon. I suspected that I didn’t have much use for AA and turns out I’ve turned it off, so no reason to not downgrade.

Flicker caused by a dying screen

i printed one of these too.. its HUGE!@

Sweezed all this in on mine. Managed to still have room

Looks good to me

Ooo is that the Arachknight I saw on reddit?

Are you German?

Nein! Why?

Haha! In the movie thats what the old archeologist asks when he sees the aliens

Oh yeah! Completely forgotten that - need to watch again. Luckily my missus confessed over the weekend that she'd never seen it! Perfect excuse to watch it again ;)

It's a "Mondoshawan" from the movie "The 5th Element".

She KNOWS it’s a multipass!

Great movie!

Aziz, lights!

The bending is usually caused by a too short exposure time?

Banding? I am assuming typo - but Id like to know if thats also caused by too short exposure time?

Hes thicccc

Supergreen!

what do you use to attach these pieces together? I tried several types of glue but none stick for me.

I think this was caused by too long a time and it adhering too strongly to the FEP. I'm going to drop it from 15 secs to 12, maybe even 11 and try again. If it gets a lot worse, we'll know you're right! ;)

Incidentally, I think it was more the exposure time combined with not enough/too light supports. With stronger supports it probably would have been fine, maybe?

Just your bog-standard Loctite finger-sticking Superglue

Anything. I used Vaseline ;)

I use Super Lube for my FDM printer lead screw, and will also use it on the Photon once needed. We use it also at work for lubricating spindles and other moving parts on big flatbed UV inkjet printers. it contains PTFE.

Bearing grease

I use superlube too for all my fdm & photon, I like it's PTFE & dust particles doesn't stick on it

It is relatively slow moving so I would use something thick like joint grease

lithium

Sewing machine oil

I use regular bearing grease. Nothing special. Works fine.

Jizz

Just wondering, is Duc pronounced Douche?

I used https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-500g-multipurpose......

?

in Germany we have a lubricant called „jizz“!

I used marine gear lube.

I use white lithium grease. Works well.

Is it working properly?

I used Sil-Glyde (silicone-based) because it’s what I had. Seems to work just fine.

Synthetic grease lasts the best and doesn't get everywhere. I like Superlube.

David Duc did you swallow it?

Perfectly, why would it not? Vaseline is petroleum jelly. Or basically - grease. In aircraft terms it's known as PX-7.

I use either. I have Dow 33\ and Random Hardware store lithium grease and both work fine.

Baso lube, I use it on my wire edm machines. Excellent stuff

Better safe than sorry :P

I have some vaseline at home, grabbed some engine grease, but I will try it the next time.

Synthetic PTFE grease

Unicorn tears. Super expensive but worth it.

Bad idea. If you use too much it can contaminate the stepper motor and severely reduce the holding torque.

Eric Jorgensen I use about a drop a year and wipe afterwards. If things are aligned properly you shouldn't need more.

Silicone doesn't work on the metal surface.

Silicone is recommended for plastic/rubber because it won't degrade it like a petrol-based one. That does not mean it doesn't work on metal.

I just use superlube synthetic grease with PTFE.

Tamás Lehoczky it's not a fast moving or highly loaded joint so it'll be fine.

I'm sure they're gonna look awesome once you get them cleaned up and off of there but scrolling down quickly I saw this as some serious hieronymus bosch type stuff. ? ? ?

Hah, hah, yes, this is why the pic is so beautiful. I'm thinking to do a wallpaper with it!

Stl?

Holden8702 I have been looking for Navy figures. Where can I find the STL?

Sorry, my own design...

No Problem :)

i was going to ask same question :)

Only a little creepy

Fabulous. Ok, newbie here. Can I buy a scanner and scan stuff and print with the photon??

I feel like those could be my keys

Nice head :) . Can you do a rough guide plz

Whoa interesting, how are u scanning your head

Be careful not to lose your head ?

It was scanned with an Artec MHT for most of the head and then the face was done at higher rez with an Artec Spider.

Depends entirely on how much budget you have!

Pretty simple for this one - hire an Artec Eva or MHT, scan the head with it. Hire an Artec Spider, scan the face with it. Merge the two! ;)

I can always print a new one ;)

3D Scanning Guy ok thanks :/

Lovely

Mike Borrmann schau das mal an

Awesome. 0.2?

Excellent

wow
could you provide a link on making the model
please and thankyou

www.3dp.rocks/lithophane

Make sure under the settings you change the default image to positive not negative or it will turn out inverted.

Very common mistake

Nice print.

Robert Becke geht ja doch

Pedro Ribeiro 0.05 ?

What Jared said, on both counts! ?

It wouldn't work with a non transparant resin i assume?

I did this one with Siraya Sculpt, which is opaque gray, with a touch of Blu for strength:

It's not really transparent resin (in the true sense), it's just thin enough for the light to get through. These were originally done in porcelain in the 18th and 19th centuries, which isn't transparent either ?

Awesome! Should work with the elegoo grey than!

Hendrik De Coster yeah should be fine! I use elegoo grey a lot and light gets through it pretty easily.

still angled the print at a 45° angle and with support on the flat side, right?

Susan Sioux Mercer how thick is it? most of the times mine look really opaque

Erick Van Patten About 3mm at it's thickest spot.

is it pure gray or did you mix it with other clear resin?

I believe it was 75% Siraya Sculpt, which is a darker gray, with 25% Siraya Blu, which is a transparent bluish-green.

What settings did you use for minimum and maximum thickness?

I found with FDM the sweet spot was 3mm Max and 0.8 min (using a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.32mm line width) 0.1mm layer height and all perimeters (set to 20), no infill was the best for me. Pla is better than ABS, as the ABS comes out yellowish.

But with resin I have no idea what the min and Max should been to actually let light pass.

It worked!

3D Scanning Guy what were your settings?

I think I just left everything as standard! All I changed was from negative to positive image

Print settings or the settings in the lithopane generator?

3D Scanning Guy both ?

Ha! Lithopane settings were stock - just switched from negative to positive image. Print settings were (I *think*!), 0.05 layer height @ 14 seconds, 8 base layers @ 75 seconds, 4 secs off.

99% sure those were the settings or very close to it. Room temp was probably around 16-17C?

3D Scanning Guy thanks! How long did it take to print?

3D Scanning Guy awesome I will have to get some white and give it a try

Donny - about 4 and a half hours?