Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

it isn't too difficult, just an unfun number of screws

Watch the tutorial a few times and you'll be fine, and I agree with Sean , there is way too many screws!

4 screws is too many?

It's a very easy task, just take your time. Make sure you mark up which screws come from where. be gentle with the cables, they should come out easily. And yeah, youtube is your friend.

https://www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/tick-remover-tool/

Paul Yanzick thanks, I've found it too. I was rather curious about personal experiences. But I'll check this list!

I don't remember the exact model I used - it may have even been the one Paul posted - but I needed one last fall to use on one of the cats, and it worked perfectly. Little dummy sneaked outside and managed to get a tick right next to his eyeball, and I was able to remove it in seconds with the tool.

Thanks! For some reasons I can't buy a tick removal tool (not available in nearby stores) and it's the season of these bastards

Yeah, they're already starting to get bad here too (northeastern USA). I hope your poor dog doesn't get too many this season, they're such nasty little things.

Rick Hanson We use tick repellents as well (drops into the fur on the neck, etc) but sometimes ticks are not informed about the effectiveness of these drops

Send slices files: yes; Control printer: https://github.com/Photonsters/PhotonNetworkController

Bob Deblier awesome. I didn’t want to go for it unless it has this at least

That page states the project is deprated, so for correctness: https://github.com/....../Universal-Photon-Network....../

Bob Deblier oh wow. Great! Thank you so much

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe all new Photons have the "upgraded" board - doesn't work any differently really, with the firmware upgrade, but it used to be an issue because it would only read a certain type of file that Chitubox wouldn 't put out.

The term people here used, "Fauxton" confused a lot of people initially (myself included). Makes you think they're inferior or counterfeit, but you won't have any issues if you're happy with your "classic".

Kyle Telechan not upgraded but sidegraded. No more Ethernet port. In that respect the Fauxton is indeed inferior. Also in the aspect that community developed tools such as the invaluable resin calibration test no longer can be used. It's ersatz, due to whatever falling out happened between Anycubic and CBD.

Bob Deblier I wasn't aware of the ethernet cable, so that's certainly good to know if OP was expecting it, but is there any reason that the new RERF tests don't work in place of the original resin calibration tests? There are even RERF versions of that original test (that I've used myself a few times).

Maybe try printing them by placing the back of the monster layed to the bed, you have an horizontal base for the foot of the monster that internally (as model is hollow) will need some type of support to print well, in this way it will just print vertically and would work better later. Idk if slicer calculates internal supports for hollow models...

Maybe make some holes for excess playdough to come out

Could make the mold smaller, they look a bit thicker than they need to be to encapsulate the mold.

I would print them separately since I feel that's a lot of area sticking to the FEP and it would be ideal to print them at an angle. Also, I would hollow the rest of the mold, it seems that would use a shitload of resin.

Have you run a resin calibration test (assuming you have a classic Photon) or the RERF test (if it's a Fauxton) to find out the correct exposure time?

I haven't, but I've been printing nothing but successful prints with the same exposure settings for months, then I started noticing stuff stuck to the FEP vat that progressively got worse and worse until it was unusable. I figured it was probably because I had been using the same FEP liner for about 4 months straight, and it was starting to get cloudy, so I switched it out, but the exact same problem persists.

I should also mention the shape is the exact same size, approximately the same shape as the inner square of the UV Test. This occurs even if I'm printing a small item, about the size of a quarter, right in the middle of the build plate.

Each bottle is different. Ambient temperature affects exposure time as well. Your LED also gradually becomes weaker. You've been lucky so far. Go back to the basics: calibration test first.

Are you running the original Firmware on the printer, if so it could be frame shearing.

I updated it shortly after I got the machine... about June/July of last year, because I was having some issues where it would just die in the middle of a print. Haven't had a single problem (that wasn't operator error) in the 8 months or so since.

Nice mix too. From ready player one to kingdom hearts.

Nice. Now try the ones from Locke and Key on Netflix.

I'm surprised you haven't made the key for Indian in the cupboard

Just took these out of the printer..

Adrian Jewell please email me the stl to sgthoffer@gmail.com please please please

There's a version on cults, though it seems a tiny bit off from the movie version. Anybody got a screenshot from the movie showing the key?

Mika Gruszka that film brings back memories ?

Bit are you going to do all three keys from Ready Player One? And maybe the key to the Lonely Mountain from the Hobbit.

Designed, doing wizard of Oz keys next.

Would you mind emailing me the files you have

Did you model these all yourself? Or did you find them on a platform? Willing to buy the files. Just can’t find them.

Thanksn

Jordan Points files are all over the place. pretty much every time I find a key I save it and print it.

Richard Günter Dölz I just save whatever I find and print it

Hoghead Hoffer I know all three keys from Ready Player One are on Thingiverse.

Hoghead Hoffer I’ve heard a lot of them were taken down off of Thingiverse which is sad. These would have been fun prints. Some that are on there now like the anywhere key aren’t modeled the best so I guess might have to try to model them myself

Richard Günter Dölz i cant get the site to work anymore. keeps doing 404 pge not found

Jordan Points i save stuff as soon as i see it just for this reason

No but here is a picture of the "official" merch I think

This is a replica of one of my great grandfathers railroad switch keys I designed in F360.

David Steed cool

Hoghead Hoffer Happy to share the STL if you would like since you are collecting keys!

David Steed sgthoffer @ gmail.com if you don’t mind. I love it

Will do shortly!

Sent!

David Steed thank you kindly

very good , this job man , this stl is free?

Simple, elegant, beautiful.

If she loves bird, you may try to print a free one ?

Those are likely to end up cracking anyways with that resin inside. May as well give it a shot at drilling them out somehow

You can always drill a hole in a part that won't be seen

Drill a hole

Drill carefully with eye/hand protection

Drill ? that ? hole ? drill ? that ? hole. Sorry...flashing back to the 2016 election ? ? ? ?

Alexis Kosha Kondratzky ill give it a try. I don't have a really small drill bit at the moment though, I guess I'll have to strain the resin too

Rusty Welsch ill give it a whirl and hopefully I can save a few drops lol

When you drill, use a very small drill and step up gradually to bigger sizes

Chris Wolfe I can see it being a big mess lol, I'll do it over a plastic bag I guess and hope the bits don't shatter

Well, in case you end up with a bigger hole than expected, you can always use some of the resin you are saving to fill the hole again. Then sand it to make it look nice again. Did that with some figurines I printed and worked fine.

I doubt you'll be able to reuse the resin inside but if you manage to do it into filter and back into your bottle I'd say go for it.
Close the blinds on your window first tho.

Alexis Kosha Kondratzky that's a really good idea!

Depending on the thickness of the walls and the exposure times for the layers, I'd honestly skip the drill and use a knife with a sharp tip in a drill like fashion to make the holes. The resin should be soft enough that you can manually "drill" the holes with the blade and not crack it :)

Josh Dalgliesh I like this idea, I'll give that a whirl first

Vincent Balmont As usual, wear protection, gloves at least. I use a brush in a dark room and then go outside so the sun cures the resin. I usually repeat this a couple of times until the hole is filled. You can use a UV light as well I suppose

i use a dremel to tap into it

Yeah I literally had the issue today where my drain holes weren't quite large enough to flow freely properly so I had to widen them with a scalpel. I don't see why the same wouldn't work but starting from scratch. Having said that, my exposure times tend to be on the lower end so everything is nice and soft and easy to cut away any excess from the supports etc.

Carefully drill

Vincent Balmont how did it go?

Drill

Josh Dalgliesh good enough, used the tip of the knife on the corner of the box and wiggled it in

Josh Dalgliesh

Dont know how you did that. I never made holes in it and only a little bit resin was traped inside. Never this much

Drill holes and drain :) Just be slow and careful so as not to shatter the prints :D

not sure lol, i usually do holes but i forgot this time, never seen this happen before

managed to lift a corner of the box with a knife and drain it

Kinda want to do that with some dice but I don’t know if that would mess with the balance of it

Calico Deluca I think 3d printed dice would be off balance no matter how u did it

True, I guess

Drill 2 tiny holes. Let pour. Or Roto in front of a uv light to evenly cure to the edges.

You can always paint in more resin light cure it. To the tiny holes u dremmel. Then clear coat and it’ll be fine