Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

For example, i'm trying to mirror the right arm of a model to make a left arm.
But the left arm I mirror won't print, and comes out as a shaded object in Chitubox

It sounds like it's treating the object as a separate model. Maybe try joining them in Meshmixer or something?

Something like this

Import into blender, go into edit mode, normals, recalculate outside. If you really cant do it, contact me here I can do it for you...

Darko Miljak thanks man. I'll give it a shot.

select all with A and then recalculate, export as stl

Before curing and using sprue clippers for hard ones will be life changing for you ;)

I use side snippets, but it's best to manually add supports so it's easier to remove also change your support settings to make it smaller at the connection point I saw a good video on supports just Google setting up supports there's loads of info out t here also I tend to snip most off before curing as they are softer. Some people put the prints into warm water this helps make them easier to remove as well. The main thing is to put the support in easier to remove areas also test different orientations on your model you will find that you can get away with a lot less supports

Use Prusa slicer for support. Very easy to remove before curing

I tried that. But the clippers seemed to tear chunks out of the model sometimes, and can't really get rid of the nubs either :(

What is the difference between them? I've tried using Prusa but I didn't really notice a difference.

Better and easyer support settings

Fabian Ruyters is there a particular trick to it? I just used the auto support button.

What's a recommended size for the connection point? I've been working off the default settings on Chitubox. Does Support Density matter?

How thin are your walls? The only time that's ever happened to me was trying something not optimised to print.
Simply pulling the gently off by hand at the join does 90% for me with no nubs. Not heavy supports, medium tappered head ones.

Dave Bull I've been using the default chitubox settings. I haven't really figured out how to configure the support settings :(

See this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9iT3Dyhl3k

For regular old monsters, I just soak the mini in hot water for a bit and then pull all the supports off. For PC minis, I soak them in hot water and then clip off the supports with flush cutters. This is obviously before curing.

Use prusa slicer for supports. It feels like pulling your model off of velcro

I've tried that, but it didn't seem very different. But again I was just using the default autosupport settings.

Bryan Go maybe you're overexposing, then

Nipuna Gunarathne oh? Would that make supports too hard? Right now it's still on the default 8s.

Bryan Goh what type of clippers are you using? Are they flush clippers? Generally they are very good at making clean cuts.

Bryan Goh usually you need to tune exposure for every different resin in order to get the best details. Ease of support removal is just a side effect

When using prusa, are you using 100% density for the supports, if so, try using 75% :)

Jacob Palmer I think I was! I'll have to try that :)

Are you soaking them in hot water before trying to remove?

Andy Johnny Young I hadn't tried that! Will try it.

Bryan Goh it changed my removals massively. Make it as hot as you can handle and don’t be afraid to submerge again should it start to stiffen

Andy Johnny Young not boiling, I assume? Something like 50% 100 degree water and 50% tap water?

Bryan Goh I pour in straight from the kettle and then try and tough it out haha

I don’t think that affects the print? Maybe err on the side of caution

Andy Johnny Young good to know! Many thanks for the advice :)

Bryan Goh Just as hot as your tap will get works just fine for me

I spend a LOT of time customizing the supports. When they are too close together, they bond and are often stronger than the print. I spread them out as much as I can. I also extend the connection length so the cone part of the support is longer.

This usually results in a print which I still need to be very careful with delicate sections (like a sword) but once those are free, the rest comes off well with a good tug.

You can also play around with the connection diameter, but if you roll that too narrow with certain resins, your print may fail because (.02 seemed to work on Elegoo grey, but failed on AnyCubic

When I have supports that leave behind a little divot in the model, I take a small brush and paint some uncured resin into the hole, smoothing it on just like paint. Then I give the model a little more time to cure the painted on areas. When I have supports that leave a nub, I wet-sand it down with a fine hobby file.

Nick Taylor that's a good tip for the divots! I have a lot of those.

Rob Robertson Bryan Goh and high quality ones. Not the 7 dollar Amazon special with steap angles. I find they aren't as sharp either.

Hot water!
After cleaning and in IPA just put it I. Hot water, may be with dish cleaner, und they spring off....

Jason Pedersen I got 2 pairs for $7 on eBay lol. Actually finding them really good, not steep angles at all. But I got them to use pre bath/cure that I can get resin all over. And then have my good pair to use post cure if I need too.

Bryan Goh any tips for getting chitubox to work with photons? I can’t get my printer to even recognize the chitubox files

Wayne Mitchell oh that one needs a firmware update. Once you do that it'll recognizer the .photon files