Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Nice

what am I lookign at?

Tsri Elddi Tsa Silvermacpro Rotary tattoo machine looking you bro ?

Successful print porn!

That green just looks soo pretty fresh outa the printer. Love it

Yeah it looks pretty fresh off the printer but I just cant seem to keep that transparent look after cleaning and curing. Any tips????

Marco Zacarias color and brightness goes of course..! because this casting resin..

Marco Zacarias

What program you using

James Gramegna shapp3D bro

Taşkın Gümüşoğlu thank you

What orientation were the threads in when printed?

Doc Hogan ?:/I do not understand

Awesome to see fellow printers making tattoo machines with there printers!! ?

Corey Hollins Thank you bro ??

Which way was the part on the bed when it was printing?

Doc Hogan Tattoo machine Silvermacpro

That's cool, but doesn't help with the question ?

Doc Hogan I did not fully understand the problem!

Taşkın Gümüşoğlu when you were printing the part, what side of the part was on the bottom?

Doc Hogan underside...

Doc Hogan

Would be happy to beta test this

Hope release wifi module.

Would like to test this, running 4.2.18 on photon

The 4.2.18 version is not suitable.

why not upload file on site or at least here in file section ?

I would be happy to test the beta on my Mac with Photon S

Amy Liao ok i get it , but still you can include read me file .. but ok , btw if you can I want to test this build ... thanks

I’d be up for giving this a whirl

I would like to try it, Windows 10 photon s firmware up to date

I want to try. Classic Photon

ok

I would like to test it too... windows 10 photon S firmware 3.4.1

Why only 3+ ?

Amy Liao , I would like to test this version. Could you send me the file?

Photon S 3.4.1 With linux?
- i Know you dont support linux ;)

Amy Liao
Will it ever happen? I'm kinda limited to use chitubox

Amy Liao i am deeply interested in the new version for mac. can you provide the file to me pls? thx

Following and would also be a tester for you.

Cant even upgrade my firmware file not recognized.

+1 It could be very helpful to have a wifi access in order to follow the print progress remotely. Thanks

I would like to test this beta ? on photon S

Hollow settings should make a big g difference

Amy Liao for me too please

How do I update the firmware of the printer?

Amy Liao Would love to beta test please!

Please send me the beta file link ?

For me to please:)

Amy Liao I'm keen to try it!

Amy Liao same here.

I'm using v3.4.1 ..plz send me the beta to test

Please send ne the beta file link

Would like to try it for sure!

Is there also update for the firmware?

The z axis of V3.4.1 is too high.

It hit and push the top blue metal part and creating strange sound every time I finish printing.

?

Amy Liao I’m interested in the beta

I’m interested in the beta

I’m interested ALSO

I would also like to participate in the Beta. I am running V3.4.1

Interested, please add me to the list.

where to download?

Hi, interested by the beta program (Photon S 3.4.1)

Interested as well would like the link please

Hassan Alali

Interested as well, please send me a link please :-)

Me too please

Hello, please contact me for beta testing. Thanks

my too please

Interesed, send me please ?

I’m interested as well

Amy Liao Could I also get access to the new release for the photon S ?

Please add me to the Beta

Interested, pls. send me a file.

Has anyone actually got the file yet? I haven't heard back from Amy Liao

Can you go back to older firmware if I upgrade?

John Chrapkowski

Photon-S owners with older firmware.

I suggest that if you've not upgraded your S firmware, do not do so.

Unless, if and until anycubic releases the original S firmware which reads and prints *.photons files.

If you upgrade, you will be locked to this "Workshop" slicer and lose your ability to use chitubox or other third party slicers.

Sen Kun thank you, that is what I thought. I would like anti aliasing which I cannot get without firmware upgrade, is that correct? I do agree I’d rather stick with older firmware

1. You can always downgrade the firmware (per anycubic statement)
2. You can still use third party slicers. I use meshmixer, chitu, and prusa altogether, no issues. Just have to export to stl. And photon workshop accepts straightaway, off you go for slicing to .pws file

1. Downgrade? Please share the firmware files.

2. Yes, but we're talking about slicing direct. Not convoluted workarounds.

1.Ask anycubic, they stated it. Not me. Or if you are one of the staff, you should know better

2. You said "you will be locked to this workshop slicer and LOSE YOUR ABILITY to use CHITUBOX or other THIRD PARTY SLICERS"
Lose your ability means you can not use other slicers, at all.
When in this case, you can, but with extra steps. You pick the wrong statement

I see that you are a mod for this forum, but from this statement, you are encouraging people to avoid anycubic's products. Just saying. No offense

Proof for number 1.
PDF page 4 last point from the bottom, from anycubic's "how to use (please read me before upgrade)"
Link
https://drive.google.com/....../1eyurk21dsyMiN1p2....../view

1. That's right. How can one downgrade when the files aren't available?

2. What does a slicer do? Slice. If it can't slice *.pws files, you lose the ability to slice for the printer.

Stop arguing semantics. And yes I'm a mod for this forum, I'm not a salesperson for anycubic. This group is also not a fanboi group. This group is about helping owners get the best out of their printers. If they do a shit move I'll call it. And this is shit move from anycubic.

1. On the files section of this group obviously

2. Cant say anymore, you just dont get it do you?
Never heard of 'all roads lead to Rome'? Whichever ways you use, you'll eventually get the .pws and can start printing right?

You said this is a shit move, right when Amy Liao encourage people to try the beta to get more feedback?
And even stopping people from upgrading as the requirement for beta?
Some other brands dont even care on feedbacks and beta testers

1. Where is the downgrade firmware?

2. I'm afraid you're the one who's not getting it. Sure, all roads lead to Rome, you can jump through hoops and meander all over the place to get there but there's only one direct path. And that's the point.

And like I said, unless, if, and until anycubic releases the downgrade firmware, the suggestion is not to upgrade.

If you don't care about being locked to just the *.pws output, then by all means upgrade away.

Is this not it?

I don't know. Is it official? I'm asking for anycubic's official release.

Has anyone tested it? Have you? Anyone could put up a file named whatever.

Ask them, ask anycubic, not me.
You are a mod, you should have closer access to them.
Or ask pierre gelinas as the uploader

Not interested in downgrading, sorry. You test it yourself. I'm satisfied with the current firmware, upgraded it even right after i bought my photon s

Sen Kun i've tested downgraded files. They works.

As for official files for downgrade - all users, who downgraded firmware , and not used files from facebook - got files from Anycubic's support directly without any issues. I know at least 2 Photon S owners, who did it that way.

This is my last comment to you. The entire reason for this phenomenal waste of time is regarding the lack of an official downgrade. And the lack of any warnings from anycubic about what happens if you upgrade.

When unsuspecting owners upgrade they wi ll be locked to one slicer.

Unless and until anycubic releases the downgrade firmware, the suggestion is not to upgrade.

If, like you, one doesn't care about this, then by all means, upgrade away.

Aleksey Kulagin
Just to clarify. You tested firmware obtained from Anycubic or from the one listed in the open files section?

Sen Kun i've used from facebook files section. But from Photon-S group. Although they looks same (same byte size).

Doesnt this thing written as Attention typed in red mean warnings to you?

Aleksey Kulagin
Thank you for clarifying that the downgrade firmware you used was unofficial and posted on the S group. And that for your machine, the downgrade worked.

Do you have a copy? It'll be good to have that in hand until we get an official release.

Ivan Adhi R
What are you still going on about. Does it not mean anything to you when someone says sure if you don't like it you can always downgrade, but never released the downgrade files?

"2. What does a slicer do? Slice. If it can't slice *.pws files, you lose the ability to slice for the printer."

While technically true, it just doesn't seem like a big deal. For FDM printers, slicing software applies so many countless variables, eac h affecting the print in so many profound and subtle ways, that the slicer really matters.

For Resin, the model preparation and support placement is quite involved, but the slicing itself? It has a small handful of variables, and the end result is little more than a series of black and white images. It really doesn't matter which software does the slicing, so long as it is at all functional, since any other software that can export an .stl file can do all the more complicated parts of the preparation.

Almost ready

John Chrapkowski yes

Amy Liao could you send it to me too? Thanx in advance!

Can I just try the slicer

.

Ivan Adhi R hmmm it says its not compatible with anything. Yeah dick move. This is no different than some of the other companies that tried to design their equipment to only except there inhouse resin.

Me too please x2

Marco Di Biase

When you will add support to Linux?

ANYCUBIC Is it possible for the new board/Photon-s board to do anything with WIFI or network?

Me too add to beta testing

Tsk. Tsk tsk.

If anyone remembers the fiasco caused by anycubic when they threatened legal action against anycubic printer owners? They made the threat in their Product Installation Statement on 11th March, then tried to hide the fact by "vanishing" the statement?

Well, once bitten twice shy. Since anycubic has a bad habit of deleting / hiding posts / announcements from groups and even their own website, sweeping things under the rug and later denying what they have said, I now do keep records just in case.

For the public record and for what it's worth, I am sharing these screenshots of the very first message thread of this post. This thread contains important information which has since been mysteriously deleted.

thanks for the forward thinking sen. if you have the time make a release using the text from the faq and this post and link to photonsters fb as a pfd and store it on the PR project on github. for future reference

we may forgive but we should never forget

I think that Lychee can also save in pws file format

Pay $39 more. Yep. That's how it's going, make deals with third parties, lock you in and give you a crappy free slicer or you pay to get a better one.

where do i get Photon Workshop(V2.1.14)

https://www.fepshop.com/....../led/anycubic-photon-uv-led/

Awesome dude ? ?

Flexible resin - Sirayatech tenacious, Tough resin Siraytech Blu, 10:1 ratio tough and a bit of flex. Stuff you might need to get up and running: https://isjuto3d.co.uk/faq.html Welding parts together = resin an UV flashlight but superglue works too.

Like Alex, I use Siraya Tenacious. I mix it in 20% with my Elegoo Grey for added durability to miniatures.

For your question on support removal, I'd recommend 1) using heat to remove supports and you'll have almost no clean up (heat gun, hair dryer, o r hot water all work well), 2) get a hobby file kit from local hardware store or Amazon that includes a variety of shaped files. These are good for getting any remaining nubs off, but with heat you'll have less of that to mess with by far.

And for putting pieces together there's a couple options depending on the scenario:

1) For small pieces, just use a tiny dab of liquid resin (use a toothpick to apply) and cure it with a 405nm flash light.

2) For slightly larger pieces, use CA glue and an accelarant to quickly bond the pieces. If any gaps remain, use method 1 to fill the gaps with resin.

3) For large pieces, use modeling epoxy like Green Stuff, Milliput, or similar to put the pieces together and then use method 1 to fill any small gaps that may remain afterwards. If it's big enough, you may also want to consider pinning.

Excellent way to start it off!

Joints can be 'glued' with the same resin and a UV torch. It can be hard to make neat joins as the resin isn't particularly good at precision parts. The geometry will bend surfaces somewhat

Oh dang, Paul that a very thorough explanation. TYVM.

I am wondering about the heat process though. I would just heat it... lets say run it under hot water... and this would make it softer, yeah? From here the supports (as well as the whole model) wo uld be easy to simply pull apart?

This is really a question of how do I avoid wrecking the print in the process? (also I realize I havent even touched a resin print so I really have no reference of the material properties.)

Do you mean the resin "glue" isn't good at precision because the UV exposure will alter the model? I apologize, Im not sure what you mean by this last part.

Zak Williams here's a video I did showing my method for someone. https://youtu.be/dgcp4LSa_eI (sorry for the poor video - I'm no videographer and was just using my phone).

It doesn't make the whole model easier to pull apart, but any thin parts can be more easily damaged in this process. You get a feel for it over time and for really delicate pieces you can heat and then use side cutters or cuticle trimmers to remove the supports without damaging the model.

Not on this guy, but on a different goblin, I was holding one of his ears with one finger and it broke the tip of his ear off while I was heating it. Not a problem for the goblin - just added flavor - but I was more careful with others and didn't have any issues. The heat gun is also more aggressive than hot water would be.

Oh, nice. Thats exactly what I needed to see. Excellent work.

Zak Williams sorry. Resin as glue is fine.

Printed resin isn't great for mating surfaces as the resin shrinks after printing so flat surfaces tend to bow making neat joins hard

Oh I See. Okay. Yeah thats a good bit to be aware of. Haha, you maybe saved me a lot of frustration with that advice!

I got an ultrasonic cleaner last week that I'm using now. It is heated, so I do a quick rinse to remove most of the uncured resin, put the minis in a ziplock with IPA, then put that in the ultrasonic cleaner which has water in it. Turn on the heat, tur n on the ultrasonic part, and let it go for a bit. Then just remove the minis and remove supports before it cools off.

It isn't as fast as the heat gun, but it's less hands on for the cleaning part. I just set it and walk away for a while.

Do you mind sharing which cleaner you are working with?

Zak Williams this one here. I prefer the dials over the digital display and buttons as they're more durable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5TG2SJ

This one is a bit more expensive, but is currently in stock: https://www.amazon.com/Commercial....../dp/B07BGVF7HK

You can probably find them on Ebay as well.

You are a true hero. ? ? ?

Oh, I just though of one more question (If you dont mind!)

What made you decide to go with the ultrasonic instead of your manual heat / scalpel method? I see you said it was more hands off - but is the end result different?

(basically thinking if this is an essential tool or a convenience) I am looking to sell very high quality products so if the print ends up being more pristine after an ultrasonic bath as opposed to the heat gun method this could be a big deal!

Once again thanks a bunch!

Zak Williams it is definitely a convenience thing. I've been printing over a year and never felt like I needed the ultrasonic cleaner. Aside from setting it and walking away, the ultrasonic does a better job of cleaning out detailed areas of the print or areas that are deeper. Until then, I'd use a toothbrush and the IPA and it was good enough, but the ultrasonic cleans it better and because I can throw 10 minis in a ziplock and toss it in the ultrasonic, I'm not spending 30 seconds per mini scrubbing with a toothbrush to get resin out of the details. If the ultrasonic stopped working today, I'd go back to the toothbrush without concern though.

I'm happy to answer any questions you have, so feel free to hit me up anytime.

Paul West Brilliant. You have been a tremendous help!

daily: Zero the machine out better

Ir 1st layers won't stick to the bed up the exposure time by 100% util it stays. Lower to your comfort value.
If 2st layers stay on bed but rest on the fep increase normal exposure times as a one, tweak when you get an entire good print.
Exposure test prints are mandatory for this situations

Reed Culver any suggestions/tips how to do that? I am using the method in the manual.

you know where you THINK it's holding the paper nice and tight? Do it a little more. I had the same issue day one

Like almost FEAR for your LCD the final time you hit that 1mm button

but you should be able to tug the paper and not have it budge...not even a little bit

I think that might be a little TOO tight, but it really shouldn't matter since the first several layers are usually the base of the supports, so it shouldn't really matter if you have an almost zero-thickness first layer