Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Put holes in the model and rinse it out during the washing phase. Hollowed models should always have holes in the

Did you put a hole in it?

Yes i put holes in it if i remember coreect

Someone was making/selling led light wands to cure internal resins. You basically inserted the 3mm UV led into a drainage hole and turn it on?

Always add TWO holes to a hollowed model. One lets air out while the other lets water/IPA/cleaning liquid of choice in. Dunk the model, roll it around under the cleaner liquid so that it gets into all the pockets inside, and keep it under until you sto p seeing air bubbles come out. Remove from the liquid, cover the holes with your finger(s) and give it a good shake to help dislodge any stuck particles inside. Let the liquid drain out of the holes. Repeat 2-3 times.

Use a syringe to squirt into the hole

Could you Show us a Pictures of the Print? I would Like to See how big the Print is.

I always add at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit on the model. Once off the plate and out of the ultrasonic cleaner, clean out the interior supports as much as possible using a pair of long tweezers. Then I use a 100 cc syringe to flush the i nterior, taking care to try and get into any interior corner. When curing in sunlight, I always take care to expose the side with holes to sun for a good while. If that seems insufficient, or if its rainy or cloudy, I use these small UVs to illuminate the interior.

When you hollow you also need to ensure there are no "chambers" that hollow without access to your drain holes

Thanks for your replys... will do diffrent in the future (Y)

and where would one get those?

Bill Griffin Amazon. Or you might check eBay.

What is the name I should search for what brand

NVM I found it with Google image check. https://www.amazon.ca/Blacklight-Scenery....../dp/B078RDL8NQ

No name or brand, but here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin......

:P Just posted same one on .ca

Thank you. :)

No one selling as of right now on either Amazon :(

Put holes near the build plate so air can get in while printing

If you put holes in your model, eg at the bottom of the feet of a model or any other place where you wont notice the hole so much, allows for your cleaning fluid to go into the model so you can swish it about and allows for any uncured resin to drain out. If you dont want to add holes then leave your model to cure in sunlight and that will generally get to any residue resin inside the model.

Works with a UV light too, I have one in my curing box.

Yup, this and a $20 magnetic lab stirrer and you've completely made your own cure and wash station.

Christopher Fugate what is this stirrer?

https://www.ebay.com/i/113768387990?rt=nc......

Laboratory stirrers using a magnetic stirring rod and a spinning magnet in the base. Been around for decades.

Oh. Is it better then ultrasonic cleaner?

Marcin Stolarek Not really, but its a hell of a lot cheaper than that stupid thing AnyCubic is selling

Whatching it on YT looks great.. I thinking now to make my own wash and cure

Do these things typically last? I was gonna grab one from Aliexpress at some point and was scared away by a few people saying they died on them after a use or two. I assume maybe it's just luck of the draw.

Sound of the cured resin peeling away from the fep on the bottom of the vat. It’s a reassuring sound; means the resin is sticking to the build plate and not the vat.

Also way more common to hear during the initial base layers, and in layers with a large surface area curing at once; lots of suction at those times so the pop sound is more distinct.

First result on google: Layers sticking to the FEP is normal, as long as they peel off when the build plate rises. Early layers especially you'll hear a popping sound as larger areas detach. This is a good sign to hear early as it means the print is sticking to the build plate, and not the FEP.

It's funny how your first prints UR worried about the sound and when U realize this, UR worried when U don't hear it :D

:) This was my first question :)

Is normal and should ne exactly like that!

That’s a happy sound

This is what you should imagine when saying *happy 3d printer noises*

It's a good thing. Everytime you start a print sit and wait for that sound. If you don't hear it, then it's likely (not always) that the print has already failed.

Normal. Check the red bolts that hold the vat down but other they that its fine

The sound of victory!

Of Course it is, it sound’s like SLA technology works ?

yes, for a few layers

only hear this for the bottom layers

John Chrapkowski Hey! You’re here too! Just got my Photon S today! I believe your from the 4Max group as well

Yes I am! Do you like the photon? I love mine

John Chrapkowski Well, I just did my test print about an hour ago. Just started my first “official print”

So far so good. Certainly didn’t take as long to level as the 4MP

Oscar . definitely easier. And so many fewer settings in general.

John Chrapkowski Yep,. print was successful;, it was a 12mm baby yoda lol. now printing a razorcrest for x-wing miniature game

Its a good sound learn to love that sound. Means your model is sticking to the build plate and the popping is the fep being pulled on releasing and smacking the glass on the bottom. If you don't hear a popping on the first few layers or any model where there is a larger surface be worried if the model is on the build platform. Chitubox does a great job on raising the build platform, it doesnt jerk it up, lifts slowly allowing the vacuum between feb and model to release.

Thanks for making the post. I was wondering the same thing ? ?

Super good

Mario Hippmann me too, or anything with a. Large surface area.

It’s a good thing ?

If you don’t hear that you haven’t got a print

Thanks!

I'VE BEEN HEARING IT AS WELL AND HOLY SHIT I WAS SCARED thank you for answering this question :)

It's a good sound. What you are hearing is the cured resin being lifted from the FEP. Meaning that the print is sticking to the build plate and not your FEP. When starting a print always sit and listen for that pop on the first couple layers. If you do n't hear it, then it's likely (though not always) that your print has already failed. As the print progresses and there is less surface area that is being cured that pop might be less audible.

Demand > supply

+ $189 for IPA !

Do you mean bottom layer exposure time? Normal layer exposure should never be that high.

Also, your build plate is visibly tweaked. You might want to re level.

Either your plate or vat isn't straight...I'ld be more concerned about that straight away.

30 sec norm is 2x as long as it should be

What resin needs that much exposure?

Peter Ede cool thank you! I'm changing the settings

Nipuna Gunarathne I'm using the translucent green. I originally did it because I wasn't sure why my prints weren't sticking to the build plate.

So I'm changing my exposure time to 15 seconds, hopefully my FEP film doesn't get torn apart ?

On that note, does anyone know why it will take a month to get fep film delivered? Is Amazon cracking down on deliveries to the point where they are only doing essentials now?

Thank you for the response everyone! In appreciate all of your input. My brother told me to get the printer with the most community support and I definitely am not disappointed :)

(It's my third print)

Andy Turtle Consiglio they prioritized medical accessories because of the shortage in most countries

Andy Turtle Consiglio also try releveling your build plate https://youtu.be/K4G6ExEtk70

I actually did level (with that video as well!) it and got some good prints, it's just kind of crooked on the x axis and me being the doof I am didn't notice it ? ? . I'm kind of scared of releveling it, because I got 2 working prints with this loadout.

That said when I have some time I'll be rectifying that ugliness

Pic is a 12 hour print I did today. First large successful print I did :D

Thank you so much for your advice!

Juz Cullum +1 on the plate. The top right and bottom left are closer to the vat walls

It looks extremely un leveled

Unlevelled on the y axis? Or the x axis?

-x looks lower than +x

It does look that way, but I imagine its perspective. Otherwise nothing would stick to that build plate.

I agree

So I leveled out out again. Turns out when I removed the print bed to clean it I was making SMALL shifts in the level that was making it less effective.

check the build arm isnt colliding with the VAT

I dont know if its the angle but is your build plate skewed? It should be sitting square in the VAT. And the noise your hearing is the popping sound people talk about, its the model releasing from the FEP which then smacks the glass underneath. Its a good sound nothing to worry about.

looks REALLY angled. that plate isn't flush

Steve Ross I fixed it, it's printing so well now!

Simple green works!

No. Switch to Mean Green or Mr Clean instead, then rinse with water before drying it off and curing it. 70% won't do the job IMHO

We don't have Simple Green here, Mr. Clean is bleach?

Acetone works the best and its cheap

Pure Acetone?

I'm sure it's not as good, but I've been using 50% from dollar store and it does work fine. In fact it's no different than what the 99% does. The prints are good with no white residue.

Acetone is very agressive. It destroys your prints if you have them in for too long

Andy Turtle Consiglio simple green in Australia is just an “environmentally friendly” detergent... what is it where you are from? I can’t see it cleaning resin prints.

Edric Chua Mr Clean all purpose cleaner works great

Just use two bottles for 140% alcohol ?

ive been using 70% ipa since my first print, started with soaking the later switched to just spraying it and brushing. tried pure acetone on my last print and it think it works great, swished the print around for 30 seconds, then on warm water with soap and then uv curing soaked in water.

Dan Andersson acetone is awesome, its a 15 sec shake and done

Methylated spirits works well, acetone is my fav but its pricier

I still have a good amount of 90% in my wash tumblers. This is more for cleanup for spills, spatulas etc etc

70% is very good to desinfektion from covid-19 but for cleaning your prints much better 92 and higher.

Pure acetone and I swirl the print for about 20 seconds in my pickle jar. Then a quick rinse with water and your done.

The United States

Bernie Horowitz That's great if you live in the USA, but most of the world doesn't and you can't buy those products outwith America.

Denatured is cheap and I think works better

You can as salt your 70%. The saltwater goes to bottom siphon off the top

John Chrapkowski does salt cause enough polarity shift to cause layer separation?

If you can find Denatured, it's less $$$..

70% is actually better.

140% ?

For better or worse, I use 70% and haven't noticed any bad side effects. I usually let it soak for a few minutes, but everything seems to come out clean

Denatured alcohol is available everywhere and works just as good if not better

Edric Chua
Save the IPA (whatever %) for disinfection purposes, trust me it'll come in very useful and you'd wish you didn't squander it.

Use alternatives for your prints, denatured/ methylated, acetone, simple /mean green, etc.

Scott Pavlich works well but it’s like $10US a quart on Amazon right now.

Ric Watts Not sure what your stores are like but it’s like $11 a gallon in most paint departments...usually right next to the thinner

Never mind...looks like the price of that has jumped up as well

David O'Maolagain Yea...I guess I should qualify every post with an * that says Only in America

Yeah, I’m still using old IPA to wash. Trying to find a way to do cleanups.

its works fine. I use a two baths. One clean, one dirty. I like to use a small brush to speed up the first wasg.

I get 99% bottles from amazon. I get 12-16oz bottles every 6 months on subscription

Rersearch 'salting out' IPA.

I can't believe you people are hunting IPA for printing in these times ... how about using it to disinfect, leaving stocks to those who need it for health reasons, etc... ?

I don’t think so. It’s not in the part you use

I have used both and cannot tell the difference in the final print.

i ran out and have been using this, its amazing stuff and works just as good as IPA!

If the layers don't separate then the water and alcohol are still mixed.

^i use this. sometimes mixed 50-50 with ipa.

70% works just fine

Mean/Simple Green

I tried it. Didn't do anything for me.

I have had good luck with most de-greasers I've tested so far. And some of those you can get in bulk and cheap at places like Home Depot.

Use spray foam glass cleaner for vat. Form 3d print farm and use lean green or mr clean on parts from uncle jessie.

Can always distill it some more

I've used 70% alcohol pads to wipe down the top of the build plate and outside of my vat. I would keep checking the Wal-Mart

If you have access to a Home Depot, look in the paint department. Around the paint thinners for a can labeled "FUEL". It's concentrated denatured alcohol. It's what I use and it works great.

on the left

How much price difference?

Birdy! I want this stl!

Burnt? How?

You need to put factor 30 on it

i guess it depends where you live - up in in England you'd probably have to leave it out a couple of day :)

Robert Murdock it changed colors

Curing parts can cause some resins to become discolored. More noticeable on clear resins. My only experience with this is with anycubic clear green. I left a few in the window sill and they turned a bit brownish. For around ~$25 you can build a diy curing chamber. I used a uv LED strip and the foam that the printer shipped in to make mine for now. Working on a more permanent chamber.

Derek Fontes thanks just bought a UV light how long do i have to leave there for?

Still learning the ropes myself. But I'm sure there are factors that make curing times different for each print. I've been told though that you only need to cure until the surface loses that "tacky" feeling. With the lights I bought, I've found that about 10-15 mins usually works. May want to get yourself a solar powered display as well. Really cheap on Amazon <$10.

Derek Fontes thanks for the help. I also got the solar powered displayed i got a uv lamp thats 6w

Depends on whether I forget I put it out or not.

Not using proper sunscreen

Hahaha, I did that on Sunday. No harm done other than a wasted half print.