Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Use the XP finder and you’ll know exactly what exposure to use ?

There is a setting in the community doc for .025 layer height with the white that worked well for me

I actually did this the other day with Stuart
You need to use supports and a raft. At that size I couldn't get something that small to stay atrached to the build plate

I agree that supports is probably the way to go. At that size, if you are designing the parts yourself, one option might be to build supports into the model itself.

I have built cast resin model kits, and they commonly have small parts mounted on a l arger 'sprue'. You then cut off the parts with a sharp knife or razor saw. I have considered this option for my own printed small parts where supports will be tricky (not actually experimented with the idea yet though).

If using normal supports, try using only one or two smallish supports at the lowest point(s), then really tiny supports elsewhere if needed. Experiment with your own support settings, do not trust default settings (for sure avoid auto generated supports). And spend some time figuring out the orientation that will minimise the support needed.

I think I'll have to design supports myself because those of chitubox even when added manually "bite" into the model too deep. Thank you for the advice!

Piotr Kuśmierski Use PrusaSlicer it has far better supports. Add the supports, export and then slicer as normal in chitu

The prusa slicer supports bite in model even deeper ;) . I use it daily on larger models

I've heard these are quite good. https://www.dragonresin.com/....../model-resin-dlp-lcd......

Super thick resin to use,Have very mixed results with it,End up with alot of metallic on top side of prints and not so much down sides

Layer height?

Thats the pixels u see.. put it diagonally across the buildplate..

What youre seeing, is each "row" of pixels on the lcd.. it is, the physical resolution of the printer youre seeing..

layer hight 0.05

Trying to find "this" gifs that aren't overused is proving tricky.

Jesus! How long was that print! And how many litres of resin!

Tyron looks hollow, I would say 150ml at most

Vincent Balmont oh yea shes hollow alright, but damn that would be annoyong if it ran out of resin mid print

It is hollow with it was printed on 1 vat of resin ( up to the normal limit) it was 10h and 5 min

Tyron Craft 3 times I have printed and ran out of resin lol, I always forgot the check becauae I normally just print minis. I just slice the model and print the missing bit and glue it together if possible

I was checking it;). I run out of resin only once and it was when drain hole cloged and hollow model suck a lot of resin inside ;)

Ohhh so frustrating, how did the supported side end up? Mine are always wavy. Im yet to figure out how to stop it

Is it hollow? Does it have vent holes? Why can't you change the orientation?

If you can't rotate the model because it's too big for the plate then use software like meshmixer to break it down into smaller pieces you can angle properly

I have vent holes;) 8 of them. I can't change orientation because it wont fit on a build plate.

Vent holes on the side nearest the plate?

Vent holes on the side neares the plate as well two on the top to drain a model from resin that might stuck inside.

Great, just checking

does anyone have an image of a large hollow item being printed? Im doing something ver simular, and im having a hard time aswell.

I have few large hollow print files. Do you have something specific in mind ?

Looks like Anycubic translucent green resin?
What are your cure-times and peel speed settings?

Compared to your settings btw,
I run with 0.4 support head diameter and penetration.

Default Anycubic Photon resin curing settings, only upped base layer exposure to 60 seconds.
No issues for me with Prusa Autosupport.

So the 2 things that seem to go wrong seems to be curing and or support head diameter/penetration.

The lower your Support diameter/penetration the more supports you will need...
If you look at 3dPrintingPro's videos, he does it manually with 0.12, but he OVER supports (as in more than 100%) to support details, and uses a higher penetration/diameter to keep the model to the buildplate.

Your settings now just makes all "Light" supports so you will need more to hold...

Edit:
I print on 28-32mm scale, and after print, I wash my prints, and throw them in a bowl hot water (tap warm) for ~15 seconds, and then remove the supports with no damage... (or so little, it will get lost when I basecoat the models). After removing supports then I cure....

Think for a fast answer. I use anycubiuc translucent green, 8 bottom layers with 60sec exp, rest of layers 8sec exp and 3 sec off time. And the model from Prusa autosport was my first failure from a long time. Ok, so you suggest changing 0.4 head dia meter and penetration. What minimal point distance and support density you use? I was afraid that 0.4 head will have problems with getting off-model without scaring. Do you have a problem with support scaring a model?

Piotr Kuśmierski This is what I use. (room temperature ~18C )
Slight variations in settings for your personal situation may be required.

For as far as scarring, none / near to not visible for me on this scale.

Oops sorry, seems double pasted the pad settings and Support settings were lost.

It worked ;-)