Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I actually did this the other day with Stuart
You need to use supports and a raft. At that size I couldn't get something that small to stay atrached to the build plate

I agree that supports is probably the way to go. At that size, if you are designing the parts yourself, one option might be to build supports into the model itself.

I have built cast resin model kits, and they commonly have small parts mounted on a l arger 'sprue'. You then cut off the parts with a sharp knife or razor saw. I have considered this option for my own printed small parts where supports will be tricky (not actually experimented with the idea yet though).

If using normal supports, try using only one or two smallish supports at the lowest point(s), then really tiny supports elsewhere if needed. Experiment with your own support settings, do not trust default settings (for sure avoid auto generated supports). And spend some time figuring out the orientation that will minimise the support needed.

I think I'll have to design supports myself because those of chitubox even when added manually "bite" into the model too deep. Thank you for the advice!

Piotr Kuśmierski Use PrusaSlicer it has far better supports. Add the supports, export and then slicer as normal in chitu

The prusa slicer supports bite in model even deeper ;) . I use it daily on larger models

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You did not put any comment?

That would be the light off delay field in Chitubox (controls how long the print stays idle at the top peel cycle) to ensure that the LCD cools down and does not build up heat with each exposure.

I think he put dot to follow topic :)

Yasu Tano will a too short off time, have the same result as overexposure??

No, but it can shorten photon components life

This ^

Heat build up on the screen will kill screens faster

Piotr Kuśmierski how much delay you recomend?

On a photon with most resins? 1-2 seconds are good. If you ambient room temp is above 90F roll with 3-4 seconds

Yasu Tano would a longer delay cause any print issues (apart from obviously a longer printing time)?

I’m thinking if a longer delay would extend the life of the lcd then that’s a price I’d be happy to pay ?

Thx guy's, The terminology was not the same on the spreadsheet! On some setting I could figure out what it was but the last one, I was not sure!

do you put the delay in both field ( light off delay and bottom light off delay)?

Bruno L'Archeveque some terminology make confuse but it's dynamic.

Normaly you don't have to set up a separate delay. Because the normal combination of lift distance and lift speed exceeds/grants the needed time to cool down the LCD.
Edit: You can increase the buttom layer lift distance to insure an adequate cooling time. Maybe it's needed because of the longer Display on time.

I did that once but luckily I noticed it while the build plate was still halfway falling off. And also forgotten to tighten does that down a couple of times and you hear an extra clunk. Well that's the build plate lifting the vat up, the print peeling off the fep at the last second and does vat falling back down. Live and learn. I get into a habit now like I do when I get out of my truck before I close the door. A quick three-point check.. Wallet, keys, phone.
At the printer it's check resin, plate tight, vat tight haha. Of course any more I always sit there and watch it for the first two or three layers to listen for that pop as it comes off the fep.

Keith Yinger yeah I know I'll definitely not forget again lol

Frame shearing. It's a problem with some of the firmware revisions. I think 4.2.18 or .19 is the one that gets rid of this.

This just started happening to me as well

Can anyone confirm/ link which version we need to fix this?

Looks like 4.2.18 is the go to. Searched the group messages, and that seems to be the consensus. I've never had any issues, so I haven't changed my firmware (not even sure what version it is). lol

frame shearing update firmware to 4.2 .18

Tighten your fep, I had it happening, that's what sorted it.
Look for a" tune your fep "video

Thrall Hood 4.2.18

Scott Pavlich thank you!

and just check through your slice, i had it happen in chitubox when i had a bunch of the same objects, if i had 3 rows of objs, chitu spazzed out on 1 layer for all obj, if i only had 2 rows it did them fine

thanks to all. I will test these out. Appreciate your input.

could also be a bad usb. just saying..

David Minford nope

Make sure your printer is level, bed is level. If it that doesnt work then try upping bottom layer exposure

Jesse Szabo I leveled.
the paper was tight and the model was in the middle so it should at least be level enough.

I’ll try 90 seconds.

Thanks

Take the vat out and run the file again. Make sure the LCD is working. Should have had SOMETHING there. Either on the plate or in the vat.

Fred Bey I don’t see any light on the screen. Going to wait until it comes up further to confirm.

The exposure light did work when I tried in the settings. I wonder if it’s my old version of chitubox. I’ll try the photon slicer if I can’t get it to work.

Also make sure the model wasn't all dark in the slicer. That means flipped normals, and won't print.

There is a light. I was watching for when the base lifts and there’s no light then ?

Would it hurt to have a 100 base layer? It’s clear resin.

Clear resins do seem to need higher exposures, from what I've read.

Fred Bey thanks. In the settings I changed it to 100 and I heard a little pop. Hopefully ?
Thanks for the help.

Fred Bey quick question.

It’s on Mayer around 100 and I think I’m still hearing poping. Is this normal? Or is it fighting the fep? I’ll post. A short video.

Pop can be heard until last layers in some cases. If you have tight fep and good leveling then fep will be fine.

Piotr Kuśmierski Thanks!

It’s possible it came lose. You have to disassemble the entire unit. But it could also be a bad board. I had to replace mine.

https://youtu.be/nI0Nj5MXWVE

already did that, plugging in the USB directly to the mainboard did not work either. and of course i ripped the ribbon cable off the LCD while i was at it... ? but thx for the input

Peter Gross the motherboard probably went bad. They shipped me a new one and I swapped it out in about 15 minutes and now it’s up and running great

i was hoping for that but now they don't process my ticket and deleted my account grrr

The bottom layers and 100 second seem like overkill. Maybe try dropping that to 6 at 60 seconds and 12 second exposure is way too much. Will kill your detail. Drop to 7a and try there.

And I am not an orientation expert by any means but I would give those bad boys a 45 degree tilt with bottom side down

Mongo Rogers can't fit them on with any tilt

Thomas McConnell then you will probably be better off doing them separately

That is one part man

What resin? Layer height? And are those medium supports?

Light supports I figured it was probably the supports themselves

Hmmm. Ok that makes it harder. Can you post your slice?

Yea sure

Not till later tho

What do you wanna see ?

Try using large supports.

. Follow

Good timing. I had a set of these dyes arrive in the mail yesterday. I'm going to give them a try with Elegoo Waterwashable white to see what happens. I'll keep you posted.

https://youtu.be/Ieu1R5v2kfk

He is a champ at using inks!

Jesse Szabo interesting. I was actually thinking to mix into the resin vat

Havent tried it personally yet. But I know it definitely does work and alot of people do it.

I ordered that same set

It would be nice to have options.

Mike Seely very interested what results you get.

I have a set, and I've even used mica powder in mine. I was afraid it wouldn't cure, but it did no problem

Jeffrey Rosefellows any pictures of what you did?

Both are the same white resin. I dyed the brown

i used bingo dauber ink and it worked great..

https://monocure3d.com.au/product-category/cmyk-pigment-set/

William Lui the lanturn rings, ignore the bubbles I cant figure out how to fix em

Ky Lane cool, straight from a manufacturer, so it does work

It’s awesome stuff.

They do work, just remember to write everything down. ml of resin/drops per bottle, or you will never match the color again.

Also have an empty bottle for your color mixture.

I was planning on doing this when I make board game pieces in sets in different colors. I look forward to learning more.

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i...... I have used this and one drop is enough for 8 oz to make it translucent.

How are you cleaning the prints with an airbrush?

brush

so what is your process?

I do the following:

Remove from printer
Soak in 97% ISO for 5 minutes
Scrub with toothbrush, Rinse off
Put in Mean Green container #2
Soak for 10-15 minutes (or longer)
Fill bathroom sink with HOT water and rinse off model & remove supports
If still has sticky parts I repeat steps 1&2 and rinse again
Then let dry fully before curing

Dan Gump Remove from printer
take a big Brush soaked with IPA 99,9% and rinse off the most of the resin
remove from build plate (supports)
let is soak for some sec
rinse off with soaked Brush
change IPA (other container) with cleaner IPA
make the same again
dry it with a airblower (i think rinse it off with water atm will cause White color - IPA and water mixing)
post cure 15min

What resin do you use?

Eleego Grey , used all time, since last 2 prints very sticky

So you did not change absolutely anything and it wasn't sticky before?
Same resin, same postprocessing, same after-curing?

Cure them in water

Jakub Mach yes, also everything i touch in the post process is very sticky after that.... like the brush or the spatula (remove from buildplate)

Replace your IPA

Do not replace your IPA pour it in a transparent container and cure it with uv light over night, in the morning there will be solid residue in the container, filter out the solids and you can use it again and again

Panagiotis Kountouriotis i already filtered, IT was jelly, Not Solid

Make a post curing with a layer of any kind of transparent jelly , the exterior layer of the object cannot be fully polimerized due to the oxygen inhibit layer .

I did it two days ago, when I do it again I will post some photos

Call me crazy, but I swear my prints are sticky when the resin gets old. Maybe more of a constant temp would help prolong the life in the bottle, idk.

what? :D

Anycubic have FDM printers too

The most common beginner printer as far as i can see seems to be the Ender 3 Pro.

Ender 3 is a great machine. I'm on a wanhao di3+...its good but needs some tweaking

There's a REALLY basic one that you can get, you might even find it as a kit, It's the Trabant of the FDM world but apparently has the potential to be upgraded to a machine approaching a Merc' Benz.

It's called the Anet A8 and there's any amount of websites & f orums covering it.

A few sites in Russian:

https://3dtoday.ru/....../shenzhen-anet....../anet-a8
https://www.e-katalog.ru/ANET-A8.htm
https://top3dshop.ru/kupit-3d-printer/anet-a8.html

Seriously?
As an first hour a8 user:
Get the Ender, its not 2017 anymore and the amount of work/money you have to put into the A8 alone for the basic security/fire protection upgrades (not to mention the upgrades needed to add to reach the out of the box results of the ender) is not really worth it.

Ender3 works great.

depends what u wanna print. "small" high detail things, or "bigger" things

It rather depends on the OP's finances, doesn't it? And whether the Ender is available in the former Russian state of Georgia.

And he DID say something at the Photon scale end of FDM. You can't get much more Photon than the A8 . . .

I already have the photon for the details, looking for bigger and more functional prints

Sandro Pateishvili ah ok
so Photon is SLA
With FDM u have to know, that is a lot more "to do", every system has to "flow right"

means, if a bearing doesnt move propably, u will see it in the print, as well the extrusion way, if something stucks a little bit, u will have fails. its much more time intense than SLA

Dominik Honke the new A8s have a lot of those protection upgrades that didn't exist in the early A8 days. I've got a nearly stock late 2018 A8 and it's got dual thick gauge heatbed cables and higher amp rated MOBO connectors than the original models, at minimum.

I LOVE my CR10
I’ve used ender 3 pro a good bit at work and like it too
CR10 is better imo

photon of FDM is definetly ender 3 bigest support base of the amateurs asking the same basic questions which covers every youtube tutorial or just sharing flawless prints stating its out of box just like here...

and in bouth groops ppl stay even they now have diferent printers...

still any FDM you buy just dont let yourself down the hole called moding... there is no bottom and the results definetly dont justify the cost

I have an ANET A8, dont even go there if you dont like tinkering and constantly adjusting!, the anycubic max4 pro I'm told is pretty descent out of the box

Ender 5 pro. It's like the ender 3 but includes most of the mods that people typically get for the ender 3.

i dont agree most mods are ether silencing (mainboard with diferent drivers, shock absorbers, maglev fans) or print speed (direct drive, V6 hotend, titan extruder) only thing E5 ofers is stable construction and more powerfull powersource if anything its just more suited for moding becouse you can put more crap on it

Does anyone have any experience with the Prusa i3 MK3s?