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原文網址 Kory Kendziora 2020-03-25 00:22:57
I'm trying to determine the shore value of Monocure Flex100 to determine where the starting point is. I am creating a prototype for a customer and would like to end up around Shore A 65. My plan is the blend it with Anycubic black until it hits around that area. Does anyone have a blending chart or know where the start value of Flex100 is by itself? I'm guessing it's around 65A so I may need to get pigments to mix colors also. Which pigments work best for Flex100?
Thanks everyone!
Steve Elliott 2020-03-25 00:35:18
Following
Alwin Chan 2020-03-25 06:56:38
So I add this to Monocures Dark Gray to prevent models from becoming brittle. However, the end result is something that is flexible but also breaks apart. When it breaks apart, it has the consistency of a semi-firm play-dough material. Not sure you will get a part that has that level of hardness and durability.
Calvin Vong 2020-03-25 09:50:15
following
Kory Kendziora 2020-03-26 22:08:50
Maybe we should reach out to Monocure?
原文網址 Ernest Sandridge Ill 2020-03-25 00:12:25
Well, I just wasted an hour and a half of print time. Any one else after about 20-30 layers pause and check to make sure it's good and change a setting and forget to hit continue and walk away only to come back an hour and a half later to check progress and it's just sitting there?
Jeremy Swigart 2020-03-25 00:13:38
I don't trust pausing that much
Phillip Lovelace 2020-03-25 00:17:35
I paused once to check on a print and it failed. Now, I just wait for it to print enough for me to actually see it to make sure it is good.
Ernest Sandridge Ill 2020-03-25 00:22:12
I only paused because last 3 prints have failed and I leveled it twice now so I was just checking to make sure I had something sticking at least.
Scott Pavlich 2020-03-25 09:44:57
Can’t say I ever did that one
William Tatum 2020-03-25 10:08:13
That just happened to me day before yesterday. I check my larger and more complex prints that have failure chance cause it's better to check them and save resin/time then let a failure keep going.
原文網址 George Aguilar Jr 2020-03-24 23:53:52
Noob question: Do I need to clean my reservoir out between every print and re level my plate? Or can I do a few prints in a row?
Brett Murthwaite 2020-03-24 23:55:30
.
Chris Crute 2020-03-24 23:56:29
Keep refilling the vat until you have an issue. Relevel when you have an issue, I've not relevelled mine in months.
Nathaniel Red Weidner 2020-03-24 23:56:52
I’ve done about a dozen prints with the same resin and level. So no, unless you accidentally move the bed or have a failure, no reason to do it every print.
Alexander Bayerdorffer 2020-03-25 00:01:17
Only if you have a failure
William Preston Welch 2020-03-25 00:19:46
when people speak of a failure, this means any time you print where something could be left in the vat. This means prints where all / some layers adhering to the FEP and not the build plate/supports. Also any time where you print something and a part b reaks off or doesn't stick to itself. Common for delicate features or insufficiently supported areas. Even super tiny bits can be a hazard next time you start a new run, the build plate comes down to the first layer and pushes that tiny bit down hard enough to crack the LCD or puncture the FEP. You want to be sure that the only thing in the vat is fluid resin - no solid debris.
原文網址 Dennis Barr 2020-03-24 23:40:08
Where is the best place to sell miniatures you printed
Richard Humble 2020-03-25 00:05:37
Check the license conditions on the STLs unless they are your own designs ;)
Alex Clarke 2020-03-25 00:35:16
I would recommend selling them on the internet
原文網址 Bryan Goh 2020-03-24 23:31:00
So i'm having this problem that when I mirror an object along its X/Y/Z axis on Prusaslicer, when I later export it as an STL to Chitubox it comes out as this shaded object that the printer won't print. Someone mentioned its an Inverted Normal, but they also have no idea how to fix the problem of how to get it to print.
Does anyone have a solution?
Bryan Goh 2020-03-24 23:31:53
For example, i'm trying to mirror the right arm of a model to make a left arm. But the left arm I mirror won't print, and comes out as a shaded object in Chitubox
Keith O'Donnell 2020-03-24 23:33:50
It sounds like it's treating the object as a separate model. Maybe try joining them in Meshmixer or something?
Bryan Goh 2020-03-24 23:40:59
Something like this
Darko Miljak 2020-03-25 18:22:09
Import into blender, go into edit mode, normals, recalculate outside. If you really cant do it, contact me here I can do it for you...
Bryan Goh 2020-03-25 18:22:39
Darko Miljak thanks man. I'll give it a shot.
Darko Miljak 2020-03-25 18:24:29
Darko Miljak 2020-03-25 18:25:07
select all with A and then recalculate, export as stl
原文網址 Jonathan Perdomo 2020-03-24 23:07:18
I can’t believe how awesome this printer is!
Piotr ZDymkiem 2020-03-24 23:45:19
Cool ?
Saitama San 2020-03-25 02:34:12
Very nice print ! The figurine are awesome!
Jonathan Perdomo 2020-03-25 04:31:39
Saitama San Thanks!! Sculptured by Artisan Guild
Don Mason 2020-03-25 10:57:50
.02 layer height?
Jonathan Perdomo 2020-03-25 10:59:37
Don Mason nope .05
Don Mason 2020-03-25 11:00:00
Jonathan Perdomo 28mm scale?
Jonathan Perdomo 2020-03-25 11:01:30
Don Mason yup 28mm scale
Gene Wang 2020-03-25 11:24:23
where u get the model from
Jonathan Perdomo 2020-03-25 11:38:36
Gene Wang Patreon, Artisan Guild. You can find them on My Mini Factory also
原文網址 Shaun Reno 2020-03-24 22:55:51
I just downloaded prusa slicer after seeing several people say they use it. The common theme seems to be prusa: auto orient and auto support, follows by chitubox: slice, follows by validator. So how do I orient and support in prusa? I don’t see it anywhere.
Keith O'Donnell 2020-03-24 23:02:03
Right click for the menu to orient, autosupports on the menu to the left.
John Chrapkowski 2020-03-24 23:02:30
Did you select the sl1 printer?
Jacob Palmer 2020-03-24 23:09:46
Right click on the model itself for auto-orient, then on the menu on the left of the program, the bottom option for supports. You must have allready selected the model before supporting. I suggest not using auto-orient if you are printing miniatures, as it will not take into account which side you want the best finish on. As the others have said, you need to select the SL1 printer under slicing settings
Shaun Reno 2020-03-24 23:20:14
John Chrapkowski I don’t know.
John Chrapkowski 2020-03-24 23:20:37
Shaun Reno take a screenshot
Christopher Fugate 2020-03-24 23:32:30
Honestly I don't even bother with auto-support anything. The stuff I've got is too small and too fine detailed for auto-support, prusa or otherwise, to do. Even Prusa leaves big islands everywhere for me.
Shaun Reno 2020-03-25 00:29:13
I switched to sl1. All set.
原文網址 Ether Quanta Deals 2020-03-24 22:50:35
Thirteen of them is printed by AP - Anycubic Photon as Master model.9.999 Gold.
原文網址 Kevin Boogaard 2020-03-24 22:38:26
Hi,
Im looking for spare UV led sources for the Anycubic Photon (OG).
I know FepShop have them, but they are expensive wij everything, this part included. Does anyone know where to find them? I need several.
Kevib
嗨,
我在尋找任何立方光子(og)的多餘紫外線led源.
我知道fepshop有它們, 但他們是昂貴的wij一切, 包括這部分. 有人知道在哪裡可以找到他們嗎? 我需要幾個.
凱維布
Todd Norton 2020-03-24 23:01:22
https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin......
Kevin Boogaard 2020-03-24 23:02:03
I mean the part inside the photon. Not an external UV light ?
原文網址 Nathaniel Cooper 2020-03-24 22:36:03
Took some of your suggestions and now Success! Looks like it was the base layer exposure times, I love this printer and this group, you guys have been super helpful!
Cory Lautzenheiser 2020-03-24 22:40:32
Hey! Great to hear you’re getting good prints. It looks like you’re using the violet or pink plant based resin. I recently switched to plant based resin but my prints look a little goopy and im losing detail.. could you tell me your settings for prints? Thanks in advance!
Liam Newman 2020-03-24 22:52:06
Mine from a while ago, I havent had chance to reprint yet but I will as it's a bit warped but did for testing the scheme out
Nathaniel Cooper 2020-03-24 22:53:17
I'm just using eleegoo grey resin
Thomas McConnell 2020-03-24 23:34:38
Where's the file for the multipart warhound you can print on a photon ?
Chiewata 2020-03-25 00:00:38
i have same problem then i increase the base layer exposure to 90 all problem solved except that remove the print is tough ? ?
Nathaniel Cooper 2020-03-25 00:23:25
PM me later today and I can share it with you, I got it in a google doc from someone else
Denlee Paddy Rhodes 2020-03-25 02:53:01
Nathaniel Cooper dont suppose you could send me it aswell plse, I have 1 but it's abit dodgy, some of the parts don't load properly on my slicer
Nathaniel Cooper 2020-03-25 03:01:02
Yeah, just PM later, somewhere around 6ish PST I'll be home and at my PC then
Denlee Paddy Rhodes 2020-03-25 03:01:37
Nathaniel Cooper I'm in the UK lol, not sure when PST is lol
Nathaniel Cooper 2020-03-25 03:21:59
Pacific standard time, so like in 6-7 hours from now, lol
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