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Supports around the failed area probably not good enough to combat the suction from the fep.

Can happen if you have large areas that need printing in one layer, they stick to the fep really hard, and it might damage supports on a piece that's on the same layer

So I mainly used light supports, shall I replace most of them with Mid / Heavy? Could that help?

Could definitely help yes. Could also be bed leveling but considering the rest printed fine and seeing what else was on your plate, it seems reasonable that's it's just the supports that aren't up to it.

Lorenz Nijs perfect, I will ajust them asap :)

Mercy?

Chris Moody could also be exposure in combination with what I said... ?

A lot of it is trial and error.. If bigger supports don't work, try the exposure. Not familiar with this resin, so wouldn't know if your settings are good for it.

si

Lorenz Nijs thanks!

I also think that the supports are quite thin. Try ones like medium

next try starts printing soon :) Made heavier supports

FYI was having the same problem with a model, today i tried the exposure route by upping it with 0.75 seconds and now it seems to continue on great on the part it failed the last couple of days.

So good you finally had some results! IMO I think it looks very well

your settings you are seeing there! They worked like a charm :) thanks again!

Use Antialiasing 4x or 8x, it will help with this at the top extremly

Mario Hippmann habe AAx8 aktiv eigentlich ?

Chris Moody das ist komisch, hast du auch die richtige (neuen) FW drauf?

Mario Hippmann ne mit der FW hab ich nichts gemacht. Wo sehe ich welche drauf ist? Ich such mal eben

Chris Moody beim drucker unten infos oder so

Mario Hippmann trau mich nicht den Druck zu pausieren- warte noch 4h :D

Chris Moody wann hast den drucker gekauft?

Mario Hippmann vor ca. 10 Tagen auf Ebay (Anycubic Official)

Chris Moody dann sollte die richtige FW drauf sein

Mario Hippmann hoffe ich mal. Ich bin beruhigt zu wissen dass die Kantenglättung noch verbessert werden kann, aber ich kann mir dann auch nicht erklären woran es liegt... ?

Iirc you wont see a difference between .025 and .030 as the stepper motor only operates in increments of .010.

thanks! Why are people not going below 0.03 then?

You CAN do say .020 but I believe, again IIRC the machines resolution is closer to the .030 range so it could just be wasting time. Try using the AA like another suggested.

Mark Rhodes ok, will go with 0.03 and AAx8. Again. Those where the Settings I used for thanos aswell. I will check the Firmware in a few minutes and see if thats faulty. Besides that I cant see why my AA isnt working?! :(

I personally just go with AA of 4. You may also try re-orientating the part. Maybe so that a not to "smooth" surface is on the top. I was doing some 40k tyranids and notices if their shell ended with more of a point or roughness those layer lines were non visible.

hast ne PM, geht einfach als hier schätze ich :)

AA doesn't prevent layer lines. It is going to happen no matter what you do, so it is probably best to just position it so the top is someplace out of the way.

Ben Cox AA make IT smoother

Mario Hippmann yeah, but there will always be layer lines. They might be a little bit different with AA, but you can't physically get rid of them. Once OP primes and paints it you'll never know it was there most likely.

What settings do you use? I'm having trouble printing under 0.05mm

Andy Turtle Consiglio will post them tomorrow, cant find them on my phone and my PC is already sleeping ;)

Chris Moody .02 is the smallest the human eye can really see, the reason most people do .03 is because it's a good combo of quality and speed.

.02 is white blood cell size, you can see it but any paint will cover it

Mark Rhodes can u explain AA settings

Wet sand before post cure, helps smooth out surfaces and remove support bumps

Did you use any supports for your print? And you must've hollowed it right? What thickness?

Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Miranda I haven't, but I should have ? Supports where set quite spare, except for the base (20° angle I guess)

I'm debating wether this will hold or not, been wanting to try it without supports, hollowed it out to 1mm

Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Miranda no idea tbh, quite new to printing. But I often heard that printing with the flat side down is not recommended

Was the printer new? What's the highest bottom exposure time you've tried?

Chris Crute yes, brand new. And the max I tried was 120 if I remember correctly

120 should have been more than enough. You have nothing to loose trying something bonkers like 200 though just to rule it out. I'm not familiar with the eco resin I'm afraid.

Is it the same model each time? If so can you post a picture of it in the slicer with the supports, raft, etc?

Lower the exposure times if ready for bonkers
Did you try printing the cube? Should be on the USB stick

I have been using the eco grey now and have had great success. Your settings look good. Here are my.settings

Chris Crute I have run into this issue many times, I also just got this printer a couple weeks ago. What eventually made me have some success is te-leveling it and making sure my models had enough supports... I still am getting some prints to fail though on this same way so if you find out something let me know

Tiago Maffei what is te-leveling? :)

Adam Strojnowski haven't tried the cube yet tbh... Will do so next though...

Ryan Smith thanks for sharing :)

Chris Moody it's a good idea. Also overcuring can be an issue. As you have s version 12s is quite high. I'm printing with 30s bottom exposure 3 layers and 6s normal exposure both on anycubic green and Elegoo grey. But the temp is 30° for green and 25° for grey.

Seems you have leveling problem.

Is your build plate low enough/close enough to the FEP at the zero position?

Are you sure your building plate doesn't have any warp? I started having failed prints between two prints for no apparent reason. When I tried relevelling I noticed some corners would not hold the paper while the other two were holding it so tight the paper would rip. After some some careful inspection (and a couple more failed prints) I realized one of the plate sides was just slightly warped (I couldn't see it. Found out by using a very straight metal piece on the plate) from me supporting the plate on that side while hitting the print rafts to unstuck them. After cleaning that I started having good prints again.

TL;DR - those plates are aluminum. Aluminum is soft and bends easily. Just a drop in the floor or repeated hits, even from a plastic spatula, will end up deforming it and it will drive you nuts until you figure out what the problem is

Either levelling or the build plate isn’t rough enough for the print to stick to it, it’s like paint it needs a key for it to stick, I roughed mine up with some wet and dry sand paper

Layer Higth maybe is low

Chris Moody oops re leveling

If it sticks to the FEP with that high of a base layer exposure, your Z=0 is too high / set incorrectly.

Well how can I check this? Going down on a piece of paper again?

I have to see how I can check this... if my plate is bent, how can I fix it? Do I need to buy a new one?

really affraid of sanding the plate.. but maybe I'll try it

I got my photon 2 weeks ago. the only settings I've had with any success are .05 layer height, 150 base cure time, 8 base layers, 20 service cure time 2 second between layers. If anyone has any suggestions on how I can get working settings for 0.02mm layer height, I'm all ears :)

I'm using the green anycubic resin

to I can just do the paper method and -0.3mm for example. After that Z = 0 ?

Chris Moody should be under warranty right?

Andy Turtle Consiglio I hope so...

Chris Moody Better use the "Flint Read" method.

https://youtu.be/V45o8udXNsM

As your paper could be thicker than the FEP, and then you have an additional distance on top of the 0.3mm

I know for a fact that I have different thickness of paper to print documents on... thicker paper for "official documents" and cheap, (almost) newspaper like paper for just quick drafts.

I've had some type of problem like yours before, and it resolved with the paper method... but with the addition of the phrase in the FAQ that says "Move the build plate down until you can pull out the paper, but not enter it again" This is the point when you have to level and set the Z=0. Hope this helps

Chris Moody Yes, relevel. But don't do the paper. Follow this Flint Reed method step by step as shown in the video. https://youtu.be/V45o8udXNsM

Had the same problem when I first got mine a week ago, Level the build plate tighter, it worked right away

I had the same problem at first. Turned out that while leveling, when I got it right where I wanted, I hit the home button instead of hitting Z=0, thinking I just leveled the bed. Might possibly be the paper you're using, as well. If you've got a high quality piece of paper, could be too thick. It's supposed to stick to the FEP, which is why it's supposed to make the popping sound when the build plate moves up. It's just supposed to stick to the build plate better. The most common cause for not sticking to the build plate is that the build plate isn't close enough, so the light doesn't get through the resin well enough and cure the resin that's right up against the build plate, creating a mechanical bond.

I do what Eduardo does, too. That's also when I tighten the build plate, which pushes further against the LCD. Haven't cracked the LCD that way, yet.

Johnny Grant that’s a very good explanation. ?

Johnny Grant the popping sound is exactly the important thing. If you can hear it your printer is working as he should

Chris Moody if you put the sandpaper on a piece of glass, then move the plate over the paper, that should ensure it’s nice and flat. Rather that rubbing the sandpaper on the build plate, doesn’t need much going over, just a light touch is required. Hope that makes sense

I always set my Z=0 point very, very tight. On all my 5 Photons I have never cracked a screen, so it works.

I just do the regular paper method, make sure that the bed is absolutely level and then set the Z=0 so tight I can’t move the paper backward or forward. Not just backward. Always worked for me.

Kevin Boogaard that’s the right way. I try to level it where i can pull it, ...but don’t push it....

Just went a bit mental and tightend it as good as I could. The test print with the cube is running now, lets see how it turns out!

Tobias GJ never heard it yet ^^ damn it

Chris Montgomery thanks! Will consider it if this testprint fails again :)

Good luck! Let us know the results. ?

Sand the plate lightly and set the Z hight correctly. Problem solved

I had issues with the way I oriented the part being printed. I have found it’s much better at an angle so there isn’t a large flat spot being printed

Chris Moody just level a bit lower an you will get it ?

How would that explain why there is literally nothing on the bed...?

The print does not even reach the actual model.

You had me at “black”, that’s expert mode resin right there

Rigo Arevalo oh Shit, seriously? Man. I orderen the Green Eco resin now, any better?

The light has a harder time permeating the black resin. I have never used it, but have read lots of testimony here. I’ve used translucent red/green/ blue, and grey. Had great luck with the Anycubic brand of resin but had to adjust with the Elegoo kind, haven’t had time to fiddle with it to get it locked down but I have seen many peeps do so. It can be very frustrating, I felt the same way in the beginning too (200 replies first post) but eventually got it. Someone here is going to reply and give the their winning technique. Good luck and hang in there, when you get it you will totally love the printer too bud

Chris Moody I also saw at least one telling that to set the z=0 you need to really follow the anycubic steps. Don't really remember what the guy(s) had done but the 0 was left at the factory setting and the prints were staying on the fep.
I remember that I made a paper with the tools so I always do the right way, but finally I never had to re-level yet...

Idk if anybody mentioned this already, but your layer height is very low. The stepper motor goes in intervals of .01mm, Something like .05mm would be easier to start with too. +1 that's a hard resin to work with. I've had better luck with transparent p igments than dark opaques. I personally use the paper leveling method, and like what kyle said once I leveled tighter my builds stuck to the build plate just fine. Best of luck!

Chris Moody and I still see sand the plate... Do not sand the plate, the underside of the plate is not anodized so it was milled before it was shipped. It should be straight if you didn't hit it. It is not as easy as some may say to bend, but a small h it at the wrong place can do damages.
If you have doubts about the plate being warped, find something that should be straight, it will give you an idea. If you really seems to have a warp in it, go see a machine shop and ask them if they can check it with their "straight edge" (a tool for that). You can also go see a car garage that repair engine heads ;-)

Oh for Fs sake. Never listen to people who say “sand the build plate”. Please don’t, Marc is right.

Kevin Boogaard I saw the comment right under yours...

I had the same issue, and was about to toss mine also.

Watched a ton of videos on bed leveling.

Ended up replacing my FEP and kept it pretty loose more then I had thought it should be. Also not sure I had the bed height right I’ve seen people level the bed with and without the tray installed. I think the tray should be sitting on that sheet of paper all the videos I saw were without the tray.

All my prints r working and I do love the printer even though I’ve always thought of it as toxic.

Good luck and don’t give up..

Also, if I place a lot of supports to the model, it will create a "base" either way

Thanks guys! Currently a test print is running and I will see the result tmrw morning. Will keep you updated an adjust stuff. I was told the resin I'm using is shite, so I will wait for my Eco Green to arrive ??

Rigo Arevalo thanks, this really would explain stuff. Will keep you updated :)

Eric Sprague I tried 0.05 with this test print and hope it works! Thanks Eric!

James Ruley thank you so much for your Impression on this. I will try a new FEP if this one fails again:)

This post is guaranteed to attract the sand people.

I found it being the base layers have a skate on the file and it's just too thin to be a bse so I made them solidcylinders and that worked

Leveling the build plate =\= Setting Z to 0. They are 2 separate things.

You are making your layer height 0.025.

After you level the plate with the paper method tighten the grub screw. Now, go up by at least 0.01, THEN set Z to 0.


The FEP is about that height off the screen anyway because of the vat. So making your Z-0 height 0.01 you are right on the money.

Alexander Bayerdorffer can you show me a picture explaining how this could look? I'm such a noob ?

Sean Smith will try this next, thanks!

Chris Moody

Also might want to make sure that the machine itself is level. Even a tiny bit off can effect how the print is.

anycubic Black was what I was sent with my printer. Never had any issues with it at all.

This is what I have them look like now

Your plate is probably not going low enough.

Could be the FEP is too loose.

I read somewhere someone once mentioning using a hair dryer on the build plate to warm it up

Run resin calibration test

im gonna suggest the first thing that was suggested to me when i had problems with it not sticking to the bed., the flint read method of leveling the bed. its what i now swear by when re leveling my bed. i do a bit of resin in the vat to keep it from t earing the fep, it does mean that you wont get it to stop moving all the way but i have honestly found that if i lower it to the max and then raise it by .01mm 3 times it works like a charm. currently running egloo grey resin, it has no smell and is alvaible on amazon.

Stephen Mitchell ditto, had my photon for a week now, the flint read method has definitely helped. Still have failures, but that's poor supporting on my end.

Lorenz Nijs as have i. Found I was under exposing my prints. 8 seconds instead of 9 like it's suggested. Someone here shared their set up and it just wasnt working for me.

Look up some how to's on YouTube. It will help a lot.

Had issues with the black resin. Clear worked great

Chris Moody ? + 0.2mm

Dirk Schreckenbach I pressed the plate down as hard as I could, not going up a bit - worked for me now.

Thanks for every help you gave! I lowered the pressure on the FEP even more, leveld so hard I felt the Display will break soon and gave the test print a run. This is the result! Yay! What should I do next for a better result tho?

Chris Moody nice! Congratulations.

What tension is your FEP now?

Kevin Boogaard tbh I didnt record the hz this time, but it must be a tad lower than 250hz. Suppose around 225 :)

It should between 250 and 350. That might very well be the issue here.

Personally I have always ran around 290-300 (because that is how I automatically tension it without checking Hz.) and it has worked great. FEP tension that is too low causes issues similar to this.

Relevel your printer. Make sure your resin is not too cold and well shaked. Check your exposure time for the buttom layer. Nice printing.

How thick is the paper you are using to level the build plate?

Rebekah Anderson absolute normal copy paper...

Chris Moody ok. How loose is the paper when you tighten the screws up?

nice you got it working

Adil Muschelewicz thanks!

Rebekah Anderson the last time I did it before it started working I wasnt able to move it all - seemed to be good!

Chris Moody ?

Please check that the arm that is attached to the build plate is not crashing on the VAT. It's a common problem with the Anycubic Photon. You need to eliminate that first. To test it as its barely visible, empty your VAT, put a piece of paper on the to p of the Vat, Take the build plate OFF, make as if your going to print something, when the arm bottoms out hit pause. If you can't pull out the paper you need to drop the build plate by adding some shims to lower it.If the arm touches the VAT when going to zero you'll never get it right or build plate level. If the arm is clear and not touching your VAT then redo your settings, you dont need 90 seconds for bottom layers 50/60 is enough, clear resin 8/9 seconds should be enough. Light off delay can be 0 really doesnt do much. Don't worry too much about room temperature unless its really really cold. I don't wipe my build plate with alcohol ever, just tissue clean, so the bottom of the build plate always has a bit of stickiness to it. My print rate success is 95% rarely do I not get a model not sticking to build plate.

Nikola Pijanac Thanks! A lot of stuff to work with if it fails me again

Cheers mate, keep at it, its a great little printer will give you tons of joy when you get your head around your particular machine.

Nikola Pijanac yes you are so right.

Nikola Pijanac I totally agree, once dialled in its so worth it.

Rebekah absolutely, I think sometimes people overthink the printer, its not a complex process. It only has one axis up and down the rest becomes intuitive, it'll only take him a week or so of successful and failed prints before he will be able to offer advice and assist others.

Nikola Pijanac agreed, I’m just starting to achieve this with my transform. ?

Excellent, enjoy the process, its very satisfying being able to make your own models, paint them the way YOU want too. It's a good opportunity to learn a 3d package as well something like Blender which is free, so you can repair suspect models etc etc. You'll develop an excellent skill set which in the future will pay dividends.

I had the same struggle with my first Airbrush. You just have to learn and get used to it :) im confident it will work. But on the other hand Im worried since the Tutorials don't seem to help me :D

Use the Flint Read method. Never had an issue by using that method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V45o8udXNsM