Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Did you put your printer in test mode?

I did not put it into any kind of testmode. Have i misread it? I didnt even know there was one on the Photon S

Sascha Berlin okay so the way this file is suppost to work is there is a mode that changes the exposure time for each section of the file in 2 second increments. So section one will have 2 seconds of exposure while section 2 will have 4 and so on. This way you can see which is the best time of exposure

yeah, that was my assumption, but it still looks very off since no area is somewhat decent. I was wondering if i did something horribly wrong when setting it up

Sascha Berlin i got my source files elsewhere so ill test this one for ya really quick and see what i can find out

Sascha Berlin Well, I am unable to print this particular file as I have the OG photon and can't print .pws files, So I will link to the test I used and maybe that might help you out.

https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

If unfamiliar with github, there is a green box that says clone or download in the middle right of the screen.

Dustin Cole i sadly can not use said file for the newer photon, thats why i resorted to this one. I didnt really find much else in the way rerf testing for the photon s. But thanks for trying!

Sascha Berlin does your photon only print using .pws files?

no, but i heard that both photons use incompatible rerf variants

Sascha Berlin I may be wrong but the photon S does have a stronger light so essentially it just prints faster due to being able to cure fully at a lower exposure time. So for my photon it may take 8-10 seconds for the elegoo grey to cure, where your will take 5-6 seconds. The Rerf should still be able to show you where your resin sweet spot is regardless of machine.

Does this test work on the newer Fauxtons? I watched the youtube videos and didn't see the .gcode files on my thumbdrive when I went to check.

Christopher Barton thats at elsat what i hoped. I mean the areas on each test are different in my case, just not stellar quality. Maybe its the resin not being able to at that resolution.

Why would you say you're not getting good results? #3 - #4 on first picture look entirely decent. It's almost hitting the limits of the printer.

Go with 6 seconds

on which one? first, second or third picture?

i compared them to the original file, not knowing what to expect

The right column is all out of 50 micron range that the photon could *theoretically* achieve. Since this is an lcd sla there is always going to be some light scattering so even a 50 micron pixel will cure to more than 50 microns. The resolution you're getting here between #2 - #4 is about 150 microns, which is pretty much perfect for this kind of a printer. If you need better you'd have to look at $3000+ laser slas.

Sascha Berlin The first one. #2 give you best negative (lowered) detail but is lacking a bit of positive (raised) detail. I'd go with #3 (7s) or go a bit more heavy with supports with 6s. I'm assuming the first one is at 50 micron layers? Try to do another test with lower exposure for shallower layers as they need less time to cure.

Mi Ha first one is 50, yeah. I'll just try with that! What would the advantage of going below 50 be then? (looking at your other comment as well) I have been printing at 40 most of the time but some detail looked a bit off (overexposure i guess, printed at 9/10 secs)

i would print with those settings now using x4 AA, does that make sense?

Sascha Berlin You can linearly extrapolate for shallower layers and get pretty close. If 6s is good at 50 microns, then 4s will (most likely) work for 30 micron and 3s will be ok for 20 microns.

Those settings look good to me. AA is up to you, 4x is plenty.

Ah sorry, missed the question about the advantages. Smaller layers will give you better resolution in the Z axis (straight up), but the bigger advantage (for me at least) is that you can get a lot closer to horizontal with the plate and not have any bridging issues. You can see here: https://github.com/....../temp/slice_angles-van_kesteren.jpg how the layer height impacts critical angle (the angle where you'd need to add supports)

Mi Ha thanks for all the nice intel :) i will try it out! have a good night

It's fun right!

I've done shoulder pads too but cant find them ?

Peter Chapman defo. Plus with tinkercad and mesh mixer we can do what we want. It’s pukka.

Peter Chapman wait you doing soul drinkers?

Blood drinkers ?

Peter Chapman gotcha

I prefer Fusion 360, you can get the free version if you register as a hobbyist

Peter Chapman I’ll check that one out. Tried blender but didn’t get on well with that.

Yeah Blender is weird!! I'm kind of getting used to it to make some stuff for a game I play, sketchup just doesnt compare ?

Peter Chapman I find 3D builder good for a quick embossing if you have the bitmap image.

Fair enough, I've the hardest thing I've done was the Rhino door! Dead pleased with it though

So I could have a primaris scale techmarine

Pretty much exclusively D&D and 40k for me 3D printed jump pack and shoulder pad on my chaos lord

Combi bolter is printed too

Oooo I need to look up those jump packs.

bought my printers with the sole intent of doing 40k stuff

I'm trying to make custom Tau space Marines!

Great! I wonder. Is there an space marine template that can be repositioned to have different poses?

I’m making a train themed ork speed freak army. This is my rail biker test print ??

Juan Carlos Rincon I’m yet to find one. But I guess you could use meshmixer. Get files and edit them down to shapes. And repose by Putting all the shapes back together.
My knowledge is pretty basic at the moment but I’m sure that’ll work. I found some dog type models that were one piece and edited them so I could use the helmet as a base for my own sculpts fir this army.

Wow, I really want to see them painted! Thanks for the tip ;)

Juan Carlos Rincon going to make a few more custom parts and then do a test squad. I’ll post a pic up on this thread ??

Looking forward to see it ?

Have you tried ChiChuBox?

Yes but there is no settings for the Zero Ryan sadly

Just go into Chitubox setting and click on add printer. Go to other and select default 1. Type in your resolution and the bed size and rename the profile to a name of your choice.

lol you think 8gb and a 1gb gpu is TOO powerful?! nah man something is likely wrong within your system. do you do yearly os resets? i find not doing so will usually result in issue like this. also i recomend chitubox and prusa slicer over the included software. anycubic's software is just a rip-off version of chitubox with less functionality. even if you dont see settings for your printer, you can enter then manually easily.

Lol, I thought it was cheese

I had something similar and what I discovered was that a job would complete but then the next would fail because of resin left on the fep from the successful one. Not 100% cured but enough to make it fail.

Turned out the LCD was failing and was Curing a 'shadow' on the fep between layers when it should have been dark.

Changed the screen and it was fixed, improvement in print quality too!

That might be it. I've also emptied the vat and the fep looked fine. This is the exposure test

I think my screen failed. I turned it off and back on again and then it was acting normal...? That's so weird

Benjamin Matthew Harding mine looked fine on the exposure test but it was clesrly letting UV through when it shouldn't have.

Hmmm.. what's weird for me is it wasn't doing any uv light and then after turning it off and back on, it showed up again. If this doesn't print then I'll have to get a new screen for sure

If your screen is old (mine was 14 months old with no dead areas) you may be best doing it anyway, the improvement in print quality very noticeable!

It's only 3.5 months old, as I got it for a Christmas gift for myself.

Hmmmm, there is no saying how long each one lasts. I've heard of people having them degrade in that time though. I was just lucky.

Dang. Well thanks for your advice. We'll see what happens

Benjamin Matthew Harding Good luck,

Since it hasn't yellowed at all, it may be possible to increase he exposure a bit more.

looks like the circle could be fixed by putting a heavy support at the lowest point and standing it up a bit straighter.

The lines on the flat part are layer lines. that could be reduced by using antialiasing or standing up straighter

Your supports are off. They should support the edge towards the bottom as well. You can remove maybe 70% of the rest because they don't serve any purpose, but that bottom one at the lowest edge is crucial.

Corner of the X shaped rect. lost :(

You need to support the lowest points

Like the people before me already stated, your supports placement is wrong... You need to place a support at the point closest to the buildplate, in this case right on the edge.
As far as we can see in the pictures, your support is connected to the par t higher than where the lowest point of the part is.
This causes the edge 'to curl up' because it actually stays on the FEP until the rest of the part is printed and pulls it off the FEP.

14saniye exposure-50sn bottom exposure-bottom layer 8 ile photon'da bu reçineyi kullanıyorum. Herhangi bir sıkıntıya rastalamadım fakat piyasada bu reçineden bulamıyorum artık, siz nereden temin ediyorsunuz? Hikmet Gumus

Hikmet Gumus ?

Corona.

Hey Scott. I also had a service ticket open plus I ordered a new LCD screen. I just received contacted in the last couple days. The person from anycubic said that they apologized for the delay but they aren't able to have as many people working to make the products so there is a shortage.

Kathy Oettle thanks. I assumed something like that but one would think they would put at least some kind of notice on the website. I just went ahead and ordered a new screen. Hopefully it won't take too long to get. I'm having printer withdrawals!!!

Same here, I have been trying to get a new Lcd for two weeks.

I kind of thought something like this might happen and it’s understandable but a little more communication would’ve been nice.

Photonsters.org

Come on mate, if you put the very same question into google, the first link is the one.

Peter Csaki does it bother you that I asked here?

Well, because of it I have less time to chew your dinner for you.

Ah, so you are an asshole. I guess you're the Photon forum validator.

Don Mason Nope, just a regular one.

Peter Csaki you still validated you're an asshole. Now fuck off you twat.

I did. Welcome to the internet.

https://github.com/Photonsters/PhotonFileValidator/releases

Can u share the stl? ?

this is on my printing list ?

Anders Jens Ramm "I am once again asking for the STL"

Its here, I did just the bust: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3528140

thats with primer on? i see no linings....

Chris Kölsch yes, it's with GW black primer.

Nice!

do you have a photo before the primer?

this one? is it thin or a ticker one?

Chris Kölsch before primer.

The GW on is a thicker one compared to their super thin layer ones but otherwise the normal is pretty thin. If that makes sense.

nailed it!

*muffled shovel noises*

wow

awesome

fine choice of a krieger!

I love this model!

Print in proton ?

IS this from Iron Sky?

Ernest Sandridge Ill Death Korps of Kreig from Warhammer 40k.

Igor Melnyk it's on my Photon with anycubic green.

Stl for shovel?!

Óttar Freyr Einarsson like is there one?