Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

WIP on Batman Animated series sculpt printed on Photon https://www.facebook.com/238088680200901/posts/280202985989470/

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So, a couple of questions about thumb drives and moving the factory files from the factory drive to a new thumb drive:

What are the best practices and procedures for transfereing the factory files to a new thumb drive? Simply copy and paste? Is there a recommended minimum size for the new, destination drive?

Can I take an .stl that's has supports added and been sliced in ChiTuBox (set up for AnyCubic Photon) and put it on a "blank" thumb drive and then print from that, or do I always have to put the file onto a drive with the factory files?

Maybe I'm over-thinking all of this. I thought I done this transfer successfully, but then, maybe not... I have zero prior experience with 3D modeling and printing, so I an pretty much a total novice here. (I am an experienced model maker and self-taught machinist with decades of work in both areas, but the 3D stuff is all new to me.)

I set my printer up (leveled it and checked the tension on the FEP). Based on the many comments I've read here, I also copied the two folders on the factory thumb drive to one that I thought was good.

The new thumb drive was 16GB and just had a couple of .jpgs in folders on it. I deleted the files and did a full FAT32 reformat. I then simply copied and pasted the two folders on the factory drive to the new one.

I wanted to do a test print using the AnyCubic lattice cube figuring that the factory has everything optimized. If the test print worked, I thought that would be a good indicator that the machine is functioning properly and that I correctly set it up.

So, these are my first two prints. About 40 minutes into the first one, the machine stopped with an error message that there was a problem with the thumb drive. This was the "new" drive.

I removed and cleaned up the partial print. It was clean with sharp details all the way to the point where the printer stopped.

I then changed thumb drives, and using the factory drive, produced the second, full print. It came out quite nice, and I now have confidence that the machine is working (leavng my own learning curve as the main variable going forward).

So, any advice here on what to do with the thumb drives? I'm already planning on just buying a new one today and attempting to move the factory files again, but am I actually doing this right?

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Does anyone know of any good resins that can stand up to high temps after the model is cured, and also good for high detail? I may need to make some prints for someone to make molds for spin-cast metal miniatures, so the print will need to be able to stand up to vulcanizing when they make their molds, and could reach temps of up to 400 degrees farenheit. Don't want the prints to melt and ruin everything

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Hey all!

I recently got the Photon and did my first successful print! However when I returned to the printer the following day the resin vat appeared to have a solid skin atop it (seemed like the top had somehow cured)! I removed all the solid parts on top and drained the vat only to find the same had happened at the bottom! I'm baffled because not only did I have the chamber shut I also printed a vat lid to cover the resin!

Now after removing the skin I found that somehow all the resin had managed to cure over the print platform and the inside of the vat too, I'm pretty sure everywhere I read said it was okay to leave resin in your vat and let the platform drip overnight so I'm really confused as to what I did wrong. Was it bad resin? Was it that I work in a room with a lot of windows? I'd really appreciate your help!

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Printed this test piece yesterday, came out looking nice, indexed tabs were a little off but otherwise pretty good. Lost all detail on the face that it was sitting on, though if printed full size that probably wouldn’t be an issue. Has anyone use rafts when printing? I’m considering redoing it with a raft.

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Finally got my photon! So, I've got a $140 budget to get some post processing stuff. I have a dremel for supports so I'm good there, but I know I'll primarily need some stuff for the alchohol bath and post curing. Best cheap suggestiona, go! (Considering the sun for extra curing lol)

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Would this be a good idea if I:
- drill holes for an inlet fan and a 4" outlet duct with an inline fan
- put a gasket at the bottom

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I am having an issue with my machine that is just driving me crazy. So I was nearing the end of a print when there was a sudden power outage. lost some resin, but no big, wasnt that long of a print, I take the vat out give it a good cleaning to make sure no particles were left in it, pop it back in and restart the print from the beginning, but instead of going down, my build platform just goes up and up and up until it starts grinding against the top, I stepped away for a sec to grab some water so I didnt realize it was doing anything wrong until I heard the noise. I come back, figure something funky must have happened with the power failure, I hit home, then re-level the bed, go back his z=0 and go to print again, it goes down, and I think it is printing, only to have it be messed up and nothing but a slice of resin on the fep. I go to do a dry print to see what is going on and the build platform is floating way too high for adhesion despite me already leveling it flat and snug. I power down the machine for a bit, start it back up, hit home, then adjust then hit z=0 same as before, only this time it seems to have worked, I printed a small little thing that only took 35ish mins, and I thought "Ok cool, it's fixed" I remove the print, go to print something else and it starts going up until it starts grinding again! what in the world is going on?

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Having used my lashed up heater (See Photonsters on github for link) for a while and found it gave good, consistent prints, I decided that the time had come to integrate it more completely with the Photon.
I removed the superfluous extractor fan (Picture 1) and useless filter (Picture 2) from the back right hand corner of the print chamber and used the fan as a template for a cover plate. I cut a hole in the cover plate for the wires and fixed the heater fan to it using epoxy resin. A couple of important points: The heater fan needs to be fixed aligned to the front edge of the plate or you won’t get any fixing screws in. The heater fan must be blowing the hot air onto the back panel and not forward onto the vat. This is to avoid hot spots on the vat and significant drafts on the print as it grows out of the vat.
Once the heater fan had been secured in position using the short screws liberated from the filter (Pictures 3 & 4), I fitted a 3-way connector block using one of the retained fan screws. The motherboard connector from the discarded extractor fan was liberated and new red/black twisted pair of wires used to connect to the block. The fan was connected to this supply and wires taken out from it through the back grill to power the thermostat. Make sure that the fan is connected red to +12V and black to 0V or it will run backwards! (Picture 5) The red heater wire was connected to the third point on the connector and a long red wire from it passed through the back grill. The black wire from the heater goes straight through the back grill.
A 2-way connector block was fitted to the back panel using the remaining extractor fan screw to replace one of the back grill fixing screws. One day I might replace this with a plug! The black wire from the heater went to one terminal and a red wire went from the other to the load connector on the thermostat, along with the red wire from the heater. The load wires and the thermostat supply wires were held in place with a strip of gaffer tape (Picture 7) with some slack at the top to allow for the hinge. Note that I now have a 12V thermostat and not the 220Vac one originally used. The thermostat unit is glued to the top. The sensor is passed through a hole in the side as shown in Picture 8.
So what happens? A 12V supply of at least 15A is attached to the 2 way connector for the heater. When the Photon is switched on, there is a short delay while the motherboard boots up. The circulating fan and thermostat are then switched on and the print bay is brought up to the selected working temperature.
Whilst I am happy with this, I do not take any responsibility for problems that others might have with their motherboard or other parts of the Photon by following my lead.

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Hello everyone

What is the best resin that is good to mix with flex100 ? In this video, I mixed the anycubic green resin with flex100. First, I tried to mix in 25ml flex/75ml green. It is still easy to break. And second, I tried to add the flex to be 45ml flex/75ml green but still easy to break. And the last one I tried 55ml flex/75ml green the result is like in the video. It is still brittle .
Any suggestions? Should I change the green resin to make it stronger?

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